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6V\tlDENlN6

VOLUME in.

September 15, 1894 to September i, 1895.

CHICAGO :

The Gardening Company,

1895.

CONTENTS.

Illustrations ■

Achillea SBgyptlca..
Achillea ptarmlca..

Berries, how to have lots.. .

Berries, my

Berry bushes, care of

Berry plants

BlffnoDia. germlnatlnK

Blackberries

Blackberries, rust on

Blackberry Illy

Black currant not fruiting. .

pie tree. ,

Boston Ivy

Boston roses

Bnttle brush f

Building small conservatory .

Duse plants

Bulbs, buying Dutch

! rose-flowered.243

Chicago parks,

Anthemis
Anthemls
Antherlcum Itliago
Aphla, black

•Apple, double flowered.
Apple orchard, when to p

Apples, about

Apples, a dozen choice. .
Apples and pears for liOi
Apples, caterpillars on.

Apples, dwarf.

Apple trees, bark scale "

Aquatics for pond

Aralla pentaphylla

Bulbs, planting.

, list of varieties..

'Chicago, flower gardening In —
Chicago parks, flower gardening 1
•Chicago parks, spring bulbs m.. .

Christmas, favorite plan
Christmas, flowers at, , , .
Christmas flowers at Nei
Chrysanthemum, Abboti

-Black, Miss Louise'i). .

liallledouze. Eugene.

ilfrt-v.Mrs. W. H.

'iden Gate

'uderson, Marian..
Iglnbotham. Mrs..

11. Mrs.B.G

lie. Dean

-Us, Mrs. J. Geo.

Clematis, exposure for

Clematis from cuttings

Clematis from seed, hybrid.

Clematis fungus

lematls Integrtfolla

Clematis, the jessamine. .

Clerodendron Bungel..
Clerodendron ■ ■
Cletbra ainlfolla.

Cockroaches.

Cold frames, the luo

Coleus. desirable varieties IW

('olumblne, a yellow flowered Canada. 306
Cummon names of plants 121

Coneflower. Newman's

"Conservatory, how to buUd,

: I Cosmos

; I Cosmos, clipping back. .
; , Cost of maint

St; *Crab apple. Japanese. .
m ! Crab grass m lawn

-Inter Ocean.

. polyantha roses i

Arbor '

Are Japanese mapl

Aristolochla eiegans .

pruning...
les hardy

I'hlladelphla

I'lBrwm, Maud

■ Pitcher &Manda

I'layfalr, I>ady

•I'ullman, Mrs. Geo. M...

-uueen. The

-Kev. Mile, Therese
-•Rogers. Mrs. Archibald. .
-Seward, Wm

Crln

.blooming.

Crlnum or

Crocuses

•Croton bed at Glrard College. .

•Crotons

Crown Imperial —

Cruclanella stylosa

Cucumber, Japanese climbing, ,
Cucumbers for winter

Cupressus Nutkaensls '....

Currant aphis

. 346

Currants, caterpillars on 246

Currants, fall planting 57

Currants, making cuttings 9

Cuttings, propagating plants from.146 215

Cuttings, removing 246

Cyanophyllum magnlflcum 323

Cyclamens, greenhouse t
Cyclamens, hardy.

'Aristolochla e

i Sturtevantll..

Anindo Donax 1
Ascleplasnlvea.
Ashes, use of,..
Asparagus. . .
Asparagus bed.
Asparagus beetl
Asparagus

Asparagus in winter .••,■••■

Asparagus, preparing ground for.

Aster Blanche Printanlere

Aster, Gilchrist's perennial

Auriculas and hardy' primroses!

.variegated.,
J, good C
Balsam. Zanzlt

Beetle, flgeatcr

Beetles, blister

Beetles, elm loaf

•Beetles, Injurious

Begonia, Daughtrey

Begonia Evanslana

Begonia Inslgnls

Begonia motallica

Begonia metalllca. treatment of.

Begonia rex decaying

Begonia rubra, how Igrow

—Notes and comme

—Notes on

-Seedling

—Seedlings. Crozy. ,
— Tractablllty of . . . .

—Twelve best

—When to pot

Carpenteria Callfomlca. .
Carpet bedding. .
Carpet for s' — •-'

-Earlv blooming outdoors. .

- Earl V Mourners

K1?iB ti. mors at Chicago...

-Late blooming..

•lamen. thrips on

jerus alternlfollus

jrlpedlum, a wild white

Dahlias, dwarf single variegated flow-

upia Koezuana 261

Daphne Mezereum 103

Daphne odora hardy at Washington... 244

Datura sangulnea 216

Delphiniums .. 84

Delphiniums. Iivi.rld 6

Begonias, flowering..

Begonias, tuberous, ,

-New seedlings,.

Castlllejalndlvlsa 22d -teliow. an amateur

Catalogues 138. 15.1, 170. 185, 204. 'JSt! -Single... :•■:■••;;•,

Catalogues. Improved Illustrations in .218 -Single summed plants 1

♦Catalpa, the dwarf ms -'Some of the newer

Catalpa. the hybrid X \ -hummer culture. ... . . . .

Catananoho coerulea --uininrr treatment In p(

Caryopteris Mastacanthu
Cassia BrazlllenslB

Cattleya lablata..
•Cattleya Trlanas nlba.

•Cattleyas

Cedar. Mt. Atlas

Cedrela Sinensis

Celery', exhibition...'.'.''

Celery, planting

Cellar Is too hot, the..

CeUar.tho

•Cetonla. the Indian. . .

Dendroblu

Deutzla sci
Dlcentra c

Dracaena Indivtsa

Dry ground In winter

Dwarf plants for north border..

Easter, plants for

Echeverla leaves drying ofl. .

Echlnops exaltatus

Edging for bed

*Egandale, lawn and house

Egandale. notes from

Egg plant

Egg plant fruit keeping

Egg plant, the white

Egyptian lotus for tub plant

Blasagnus nngustlfoUus.

Elm leaf beetles

Brynglum glganteum

Erythrina crista-galll

Bscallonla, hardiness of . . .

Eucalyptus globulus

Bucharls amazonlca. blooming.,
Bulalla grasses lu winter

Euonymus alatus

Euphorbia croroilala

Euphorbia lieterophylla. vi
BvenlnK primrose, the wild.
.Evertireen hardy plants to

Evergreen windbreak.... ...

EverKreens, effect ot lue wl
BverKreens. fail planting. . .
Evergreens tor windbreak. ,

EvergreenB. pruninj;

Evergreens, snow on

Evergreens, iransplautlnn..

EvergreenB, tying up

Exocho. da Krandlflora

ireenhouse. heating..

'Falrmount Park.

1 garden at... l'.f

Fairy woods— ehruhs

Fall planting of evergreens. ■ -

Familiar tlowersot field and garden

Favorite plants for Cbristmas

Fern fronds, fine

Ferns for the house

Ferns, repotting

Ferns, watering

Fertilizer, commercial

Fertilizer 1
Fertilizers.

and shrub border, planting.

riower bed. an empty

Flower garden, book on --

reenhouse, my 1

plants, question

Flowers, a garden of.
Flowers at Christmas
Flowers at Egandale.

Howers In favor

Fraiinas MarlesU

Freeslas. care In the h.
Freealas. hardiness of.
Freeslas not blooming,
Freesla. these
Frog, keeping

Frost, disastrous spring

Frozen window plants '

Fruit garden, the. . . .27, 91. 121, 230

315.
Fruit, gathering

tYult trees." fertilizer for

Fruit trees, plantlngfor market.,
Fruit treed, preparing for winter
1-Yult trees, spraying

. blue-flowered.

Galllardla arlstata grandlflora

Galtonla candlcans

Garden, an amateur's

"Gardening possibilities of 50 foot lot
•Garden In northern Indiana, my..
Garden plants, preparing for winter..
Gas affecting house plants

Genista caterpillars

Geranlutt'^ for winter flowering

Geraniums, list of

Greenhouse plants, i
.reenhouse plants, i

Ground cherry. 1- miiohuLi

Hardy perennials to bloom all i

'Heating a greenhouse

Heating small greenhouse

.,_ Hedge, box

ii'i i Hedge by the seaside, a

■ 'jw I Hedge plants for Washington.

>■ uu I Hedychlum coronarlura

V 340 1 Hedysarum multljugum

-'>:*; I *HelianthU9 maltlflorus fl. pi-

" " 'I Hemerocallls Thunbergll

..lOejHenm; ' ' " " '

' mil top. plantlnga bare

1 lluary pea

I il. iljyhocks. single

\ liolly tree, the finest

: , UoUy trees, finer

■, ; Home garden, my

I I -Honeysuckle, HaJi's J apan

i Honeysuckle, planting Hall's Japan

' I Hop. the Japanese

j 1 Hop vine, variegated Japanese

1 1 HorticulturlBt's rule book

I I Hotbed, a

i Hotbed In winter

I'.f HyaclQth bulbs, treatment of old

hi 1 Hyacinths •

22 Hyacinths for winter

■w! Hyacinths, white Roman

1 Hydrangea Otaksa

Hydrangea Otaksa, general care

I 'Hvdrangea panleulata grandlflora 10.

Hydrangea rosea, a blue-fiowered

i Hydrangea vestlta

H ydrangeaa. blue-flowered

•Hydrangeas for winter forcing

Hydrangeas, treatment of tender

Hypericum Moserlanum lU. 171'.

Hypericum Moserianum, hardiness..
Hypericum Moserlanum, variegated.
I Hypericums

Labeling plants..

Lathyrus latlfoUus

Lavatera. failed with

Lawn and flower garden queries. .

Lawn, crab grass In

Lawn, fertilizer for

Lawn grass seed

Lawn, making

Lawn mower

Lawn restoring a worn out .._

Lawn, the 8=

Lawn, topdresslng

Lawn, weeds In

Lawn! winter dressing for

Lemon verbena from seed

Lltttrls pycnostachya j^

LIbODlas WoW-Im

Lilacs , 280.^^4

Lilacs, other shrubs, and perennials. .3?5

Lilacs, pruning •.• -^l?

Lilies, a bed of Hardy sa

Lilies, auratum d' l

Lilies. Bermuda f\^

Mushrooms, eight tons of . . . 29

Mushrooms, failed with 31

Mushrooms, growing 4

Mushrooms In cave 1^

Mushrooms in Florida 1

Mushrooms, making up beds 1

Mushrooms, questions about 124. 2;

Mushrooms, temperature after spawn

Mu^room spawn V

♦Mushroom spawn, home-made !

Mushrooms, growing In cyal mine 31

Mushrooms, spurious fungi among — i:

Muskmelona *185,2I

Musk and water melons 21

My flower garden In Nebraska ;

Names of plants.

I not blooming..

LlUun -

LlUum candldum

LlUum concolor

Llllum elegans

LUiumGrayl

Llllum Hansonl

Llllum HumboldtU

Llllum Kramerl

LlUum Lelchtllnl

Llllum Wallacel

Llllum Washlngtonlanu
Lily bed, how 1 made m;

Idesia polycari

Geraniums, scented. . .
Geum cocclneum

Giant knotweed. a hea<
'Ginseng, culture of —

Gladioli

Gladioli, propagating..

GlftdloU. wintering

Glaziers" points. Van lit
"Glimpse of the ocean. ,

Gloxinias, potting. .

Gtoose berries, fall
Gooseberries, mak
Goose flower. S'
Gordonla

Grapes, early bloomlnc

Grapes for beginners, hardy..

"Grapes, greenhouse

Grapes, hardy and greenhou

Grapes not doing well

Gravel walks, about

I greenhouse .

Insect attack c
Insect gall

Insects on lines

tDsects on plants

Insects on sweet pea roots

•Ipom^ea flstulosa

Ipomrea grandlflora

Ipomcea Horsf alllse

Ipomoea Learl

Ipomaea. vellow flowered. .

Iris, bulbous

Iris, forcing Spanish

Iris Koempferi

Iris Koempferi. dividing..
Iris Koempferi from seed.

Irises

Irises. English

Iron pipe'
Ka

Lily of the valley, forcing

Lily of the valley In the garden. .
Lily of the valley, preparing soil 1
Lily of the valley, variegated . .
Lily pond decorating the banks.
' ■ " pond In Falrmount Park —

Mawnolla grandlflora. hardiness of —
Magnolia grandlflora on Long Island.

Magnolia, hardiness In Kansas

Magnolia, hardiness of large-leaved..

Maenolias. hardy..

Maple. V

Maples. I

MayberVy. golden -

Mealy bugs on trailing saxifrage..

Oklahoma, 'musk'

New Orleans, flowers at Chris

Nlcotlaoa eolossea

Nitrate of soda for palms. . .
Nitrate of soda killed the me
Nomenclature committee . .

Nota hoya

Notes rrom Egandale

(iilvr iin.pagatlng fragrant.,

opcuiiig a heavy soil

Orange trees not blooming. . ,

Orange. Otabelte

Orange trees greenhouse....
Orchard of plums and pears.

Orchid notes

Orchids 40. 231

Ornamental plants, fungus diseases c

Pieonles. single

FteonlKS. tree

Peonies won't bloom.. .
Palm leaf tips diseased.

1 cold frames.

Pear, Dr. Jules Guyot..
•Pear Doyenne Bouasock... .

Pear. Kelfler

Pear orchard, renovating an c

Pears for New Jersey. 1

Irises. Koempfer'6

Jacobean Illy

Japanese hop. the

Japanese maples, hardiness of. . .

Jasmlnum grandlflorum^

Jasmlnum. hardiness In Kansas..

>;i J I 'Kalmla latlfolla

. 74 I Kalmla latlfolla. Is It hardy al

. 42| Kalmlas aaa windbreak

.232 i Kelfler pear In Iowa

.lit; KelfTerpearon Long Island.,

Greenhouse, building a Bm,aU.

.89, 277 ' Koateletzkya Virgin

Melons, sowing. .

of field' ".!!
Missouri botanical garden. .

Monarda dldyma

Montbretla crocosmlfiora

Moonflower, raising from seet

Morning glories, Japanese

♦Morning glory, a tree

Morning glory, the tree

Mountain fleece

Mulberry. Teas" weeping

Mulching, stirring the soil beti
♦Muscat of Alexandria grape. .
Mushroom beds, manure for.

Mushroom cellar too hot .............

Mushroom crop, strange behavior of. .
Mushroom spawn . ,

Mushrooms, books c

Pears for Ontario. 1
Pears I "
Pears, setting

.Callfomlan

Perennials, a few good hardy. ,
Perennials, preparing ground f

Phlox, hardy blue and white..

Phloxes

•Phloxes, hardy.

! needles for mulching.

'Plan for 50 foot lot

•Plan for four acre place

•Plan for ground of 20 acres

•Plan for small park

•Plan for three-quarter acre lot

Plantain lilies

Plantain Illy. Slebold's

Plantlnga bare hill top

Planting a flower and shrub border. .

Planting a sandy hill

Plants for covering graves

Plants from Jackson. Mich

Plante In school

Plant to grow near the radiator

'Platycerium alclcorne

Platycodon grandlfiorum

Platycodon Krandiflonim,

Plumbapo

Plumbago cocelnea

Plumbago, wintering

Plums, setting oat

Plum tree aphis

Polneetllas

Polnsettia pulcherrlma In the sout
PolDsettlas, to keep from wilting..

PolBOnIvy

Poison Ivy. Japanese

Pomologlcal society. American —
Pond, a poor flah but good Illy

t Twin Oaks, i

Primrose, i

•Pond In Iowa, a little ■

•Pond lilies, and how I grow them..

Pond, planting with aquatics

Ponds, plants for bordering

Popples, double Shirley

Poplar. Asiatic

Possums Ts. birds In the garden —

Potatoes

Potatoes, good

Potatoes for amateurs, good

Potatoes for baking

Potatoes, second crop

Potatoes, sweet

Potting greenhouse plants

Potting plants

Pots of plants on veranda posts...
Preventing fern fronds, etc. from «

™-'°--'" nginK

J from seed

Primula farinosa at home. .

Primula obconica

Primula obconica, sowing. .

Privet. Chinese

Privet hedge

Privet hedge. California....

Privet, Japanese

ProflUble flowers

Propagating

Propagating by division —

Pruning an arbor v
Pruning lilacs —
Pruning trees
Prunus Plssardll,
Ptella trifollata..
Purple be«ch and

Questions from Mingo. W. Va. ,

Halnmaker nozzle

Raising plants from s

KanuncuIUB. forcing. .

Ka^pl>errles

Raspberries, starting black.

Rasplicrry, blackberry an(

RliodmleiKlnin^. tritiiepiautlng

RbuDarb. forcing

Rockery, trailing plants for

Root J lee on Chfna aster

Rosa grand iflora

=8S

ultlvatlng under @

-ForBuflalc.

-Forcing Mrs. John Laing

-Forplllars

-For summer effects

-Fragrant climber for Ontario

-In Nebraska

—Latest facu about. .
—List for Chicago....
-List of varieties —

recently Introduced, notes

—New hybrid sweet briars. ,

—Notes on

-Notes on culture

—Old fashioned

—On the Wooded Island. . .
-Planting In fall

'Propagating hybrids.
-Protecting In winter.
-Pruning

^ail

-Select list ..
-Shortening i
-Shrubbery..

-Standard....

—Teas in the'l _ _
—Teas planted out..

Rose chafer

eating Insect..

Rosa multltlora

Rose— Alsace and Lorraine..

-Dawson. [
-•Dickson,
-Dlnsmore n

Roset

Rose slug.,

Roses, American or foreign . . . ,

Roses, cannas and caryopteris. .

•Rubusdellclosus

Rudt>eckla, double golden.
Ruellea i
Russellla j

■'Jtiiily hill, plantlnga

•Saw-buck, log and saw

Saxifrage, mealy bugs on

Scablos. sweet

Scale on fruit trees

Scale on golden oak

Scale on greenhouse plants

Scllla and snowdrops, bed of..
pond, green

fnowberry, the creeping. .

Snowdrops

Snow on evergreens

berried
Solomon's seal

Spinach

Trees, i
Trees, i
Trees, i

] Trellises, fancy.

iplndle tree

Anthony Waterer..
.... ^j^^ „ ..

llboldes floribunda..

Spiraeas hardy in Minnesota

Spiraea shrubs, how to propagate..
Sprayer, a public

igxiiV

formoslsslma..
Colorado blue...
elata Norway...

Strawberries at Janesvllle, Wis..

Strawberries, care of

Strawberries, list of
Strawberries, " '

Strawberries, planting run:
,__ .. _ . preparing fo
Strawberry. Parker Bane. .

Strawberries, preparl

Succulent jilants

•Succulents, bed at Falrmount Park..

, Falrmount Park.

Sweet pea. a pigmy

Sweet pea Blanche Burpee. .
Sweet pea Cupid

J they degeneratln

i lepartng ground fc

:cil spider on

HeiectUst .,

. 8i.\-flowered spray..

-Harkness, Ml^e

-Hayward, Captain

-Hole. Dean

-Prairie, wild

-Red Marechal Nlel

-Regis. Gusiave

-Relne Marie Uenriett«

-•Slebrechi. Belle

-Sweetbricr, Williams' double y

Seaside, hedge by t

I business, starting in the..

Seeds, saving

Serlcographls

Shade trees

Shade trees for the sou
Shading greenhouse...

Shadv comers

Shepiierdia argentea. . ,
Shrubbery, carpet for. .

Shrubs for (
Shrubs for different mo
Shrubs for exposed pla*
Shrubs for Florida, a it.

Sweet peas, training.

Sweet scented flowers and fragrant

leaves 1!

Sweet Williams a

Tchlhatchewla Isatldea

Technical names for plants

Tecoma amboinensis

Tecoma stans 10:

Tender bulbs and tubers, wintering.
Tephrosla Virgin' —
Thevetla nerllfol

Thorn, double scarlet

*Thunbergla. laurel-leaved.,

Toad lily. Japanese

Tomatoes, book on ,

Tomatoes falling In winter. .
1 omatoes, greenbouse

llfolla.

Tricyrtls

Trttoma

Tritomas

mas. half hardy

Tropseolum trlcolorum. treatment,
Truck garden, best soil for

•Vanda ccerulea..
Variegated plants
Various questk

ardlnessof.

I'M

Vegetable garden notes ,

Vegetable garden questions.

Vegetable garden, the U. 37.

107. 135. 23:i. 2iit. 2t;6. 2sl. 2'J7

Vegetables in the south

•Vegetables, list of

Vegetables, manuring for —

Vegetables, sowing

Vegetables, stored

Vegetables, storing

Vegetables, winter trentmen

Ventilating an Ice house

Veranda, vines for

IH. 59. 75, 92
330, 347, 363

Vlnca. annual.

ndmlll derrick..

rines for porch..

I'ines for summer uuuee

Vines for trellises about the fc
koines for veranda

Violets, hardy....
Violets In hotbed.
Violets. Russian..
Vltex Agnus-casti

Walnuts. English

Washington, hedge plants for ,

Watering greenhouse plants

Watering plants out of doors

Water, leading In pipes

Water lilies for tubs, ihree

Water lilies, good tender

Water lilies, keeping over winter.,

Watar lilies, hardy

Water lilies, lls^t of hardy

Water lilies. list of tender

Water lilies, tender

Water lilies, three new

Water Ulies. when to plant

When to order plants. .

White worms in soil

Wild plants in bloom...

Willow, red

Wilting of lemon verbei
Windbreak, Austrian pi
Windbreak, evergreen

Tomato -vines "

wintering tender bulbs i
Vlnter protection

anthoceras sorblfoila.

Shrubs for sandy hill

Shrubs, pruning

Shrubs to bloom all summer.. .
Shrubs, wintering at Chicago..
Shrubs, wintering tender

rubsofiXew England. . .;i;:
libs, some new and rare. 12
Libs, transplanting decld-

1

rubs, winter protection

Snowberry bush.

Trees, tilling In about the tr

Trees, tilling In around

Trees for different soils, a fc

Trees for exposed place

Trees for sandy hlU

Trees for windbreak, pine..

Trees, mulching

Trees, pollarding

anthoceras sorblfoila from seed..

Yams, growing bunch..

CEKTr No. 49.

THE MODNTAIN LAUREL {A-.ilmm hiii/ul/a) IN ITS NATIVE WILDS.

GARDENING.

Sept. /5,

Trees and Shrubs.

MOUNTAIN LAUREL (Aa/;«/« lali/oha).

We are indebted to Mr. A. Blanc, of
Philadelphia, for the beautiful photo-
graph from which our illustration is en-
graved. It shows the mountain laurel
at home in all its glory; and among our
native shrubs what is more glorious?
According to the Tenth Census Report,
this kalmia grows wild from "Xcw Bruns-
wick and toe northern shores of Lake
Erie, south to western Florida, and
through the Gulf states to western Louis-
iana, and the valley of the Red River,
Arkansas. A small tree * * or more
often a low shrub; rich woodlands; most
common and reaching its greatest devel-
opment in the southern Alleghany moun-
tains, here often forming dense, impene-
trable thickets."

It is very abundant in the woods here-
about, forming a dense or scattered
underbrush, and extending to the out-
skirts, it becomes a handsome bank of
living green. In old fields too in the
neighborhood of rocky and hilly woods it
is also found. It is in bloom about the
middle of June, and what a profusion of
loveliness it forms.

At the same time, notwithstanding its
great abundance in a wild state, and how
ver3' desirable it is as a garden shrub, it
is quite an uncommon plant in our gar-
dens, not only that, but it is also an un-
common plant in our nurseries, in fact
only a few nurseries keep a stock of it.
What is the reason of this? Because it is
so hard to transplant successfully. If
you think all you have got to do is to
take a pick and a spade and go out into
the woods and dig up a'l the mountain
laurel you want and plant it in your
garden to have a beautiful shrubbery bed,
do please trj^ it, and a year from that
time kindly drop us a note giving your
experience. The plants take about "that
long lo die out.

Isn't it possible to get them to Ive?
Ves. Select isolated plants in hard or
gravelly soil in preference to soft and
loose earth, cut theni back pretty hard
and dig them up very carefully in Sep-
tember, saving every root and rootlet
and keep these moist; transplant at once
into a sheltered part of the garden in
fesh 'but not fatted with manure) soil
and mulch the ground with leaves. Keep
them there for one to two years and then
transplant those that have lived to your
shrubbery bed. Better stil,l dig up the
young seedlings, say from si.\ to ten
inches high and treat them in the same
way, or rather plant them at once into a
cold, east-facing, frame, protect tlicm
there over winter, and plant them out in
nursery rows in a sheltered (not a hot,
sunny place) spot, and cultivate them
there for two or three years before plant-
ing them out permanently. It can be
raised from seed too, but this is such a
slow and tedious process that several of
jur nurserymen find it more profitable
to buy seedling a few years old in Kuro])e
and grow them on,ra'therthan raiscthcir
own to begin with.

Where only a few plants are needed it is
much better to send to a nursery and
get good rooted, stocky plants that are
sure to grow, than undergo the bother
and mortification of digging up and try-
ing to grow the wild plants.

As mountain laurel green has become a
staple article of commerce at the holiday
season, vast quantities of it being u e"d
for evergreen ropes, wreaths, and other

evergreen decorations at Christmas,
enormous quantities of it are gathered
for this purpose, which means a sad and
often wanton havoc among the wild
])lants.

HEDGE PLANTS FOR WASHINGTON, D. C,

The trifoliate citrus, C. trifoliate, has
not been sufficienth' tested to definitely
settle the north m limit of its hardiness.
[We have it at Dosoris, but it is far from
being quite hardy with us.— Ed.] It has
succeeded for several j-ears in withstand-
ing the winters in central New Jersey and
around Philadelphia, where it is repotted
to ripen its fruit. Here in Washington it
is perfectly hardy. It has been growing
outside in pretty exposed positions for
the past fifteen years; for the last eight
years it has bloomed annually and ripened
fruit with good seed before the cold
weather came along. Judging it by the
growth it makes here it is well adapted
for a hedge bush, it makes an astonish-
ingly quick impenetrable growth. The
free use of the hedge knife on the young
plants does it good in inducing it to send
out growths from the bottom. It has
long formidable spines on all the shoots
with small trifoliate leaves. It is quite
an ornamental plant both in winter and
summer. When the leaves drop ofl" the
branches remain a rich dark green color.
There is a near relative of the above called
Citrus ausfra/Zs with a very reat habit;
it is not such a strong grower and the
leaves are not divided. The Agricultural
Department is at present experiraenting
with it in ihe way f testing its hardiness
in diffeient paits of the country.

Aralia pentaphyUa is the name of a
Japanese plant which has been tried here
for several years as an ornamental hedge
plant and found very satisfactory. It is
a slender but dense grower and easilv
kept in shape. [Perfectly hardy in the
north.— Ed.]

Osmanthus ilicifolius resembles the
holly so closeh- that most people are de-
ceived with it. It is from Japan and
quite hardy here but it is doubtful if it
will stand out much further north. [We
have two good old plants that have Uved
outside for several years but they are not
reliably hardy here'— Ed ]

The Japanese andChineseprivetsL/grus.
tram Japonicuin and ovalHolium from
Japan and L. lucidum from China are all
highly ornamental hedge plants. If
planted in sheltered situations they re-
tain their beautiful foliage all through
the winter. These plants won't stand
the winters ofmany places. In locations
where their hardiness isdoubtful it would
be well to experiment with a single plant,
if successful this will soon send out
growths which root as cuttings with
great freedom, they produce seeds very
freely and the fruit is quite ornamental
during the late months. [The ovali-
folium, which is what i< known as the
Califomian privet, is hardy at Dosoris,
the others named are not.-^Eo.]

G. W. O.

TRANSPLANTING TREES.

Begin as soon as possible. If you have
both evergreen and deciduous ones to
move, do the evergreens first. If ^-ou
move them now they will have a chance
to make a supply of fresh feeding roots
before hard frosty weather sets in, for
they have two or three months yet,
enough to give them a good start in "life.
Before planting see that the roots never
get dry orare exposed to sun or wind; cut
back the wounded and broken roots to
sound wood with a sharp knife or shears

and head in the branches if admissable.
In planting, dig deep, wide holes, remov-
ing the poor dirt and replace with go d
earth, pack the dirt firmly in the bottom
of th- hole, setting it up in the middle in
a hillock or mound, not unlike a basin
turned upside down. Set the plant in the
top of this little mound, and with a
string, rod or pole stretched across the
mouth of the hole see that the tree stands
at about the same depth as regards its
roots as was the case with it where it
grew before; spread out the roots on all
sides, working fine mellow soil between
them, then fill up with good soil and tamp
the ground firmly. .\t this stage we al-
ways give the trees a thorough watering,
enough to soak the earth clear through
to the bottom of the holes, but manv
planters object to this watering. Our
answer to their objections is "Look at
the results, the trees there speak for them-
selves," And for a week or ten days
a'ter planting the evergreens, unless "in
rainy weather, sprinkle the plants over-
head with water from a hose, syringe, or
easier still, from a water pot and rose,
twice a day if the trees are fine and you
wish to make their lives quite certain.
In winter mulch the ground under and
about them with tree leaves to lessen the
sev rity of the frost in the rootlets.

Treat deciduous trees and shrubs in
practically the same way. But don't
spare the knife. Head in the top, and cut
in the side branches pretty hard. If the
leaves are still upon the trees, strip th m
off with a sharp knife; rubbing them off
would be all right if it wouldn't disturb
the buds, should it do this though, don't
rub them off, but cut them.

A gentleman visiting Dosoris not long
since told us that A. B., an extensive
planter, didn't believe in heading back
or cutting in trees at planting time, it
was all nonsense. "All right," we said,
"come and see. You remember ihtt
handsome specimen of Prunus angusti-
folia we moved last.\pril as it was burst-
ing into bloom, and how careful we were
about it, we didn't cut it back at all as
we wished to save its dense and hand-
some head and its cloud of flowers. AW
went well for a time, t'ne flowers blos-
somed out a snowbank and the leaves
began to grow, and up till the end of May
it looked like a success. But dry weather
set in in June and staid in, and our Chicka-
saw began to fade." "Yes, I remember,"
he remarked, "it died." "No, it didn't,"
we replied, "a few days after j-ou saw it
then, feeling assured to keep it as it was
would be certain death to it, we sawed
every limb back to within a tew inches of
the "trunk, and now look at it, a mop-
head of vigorous, healthy, leafy shoots."
Alter sawing oft' the branches we gave a
barrel of w^aterto the roots, and sprinkled
the trunk twice a day for a fortnight.
This tree had not been previously pre-
pared for transplanting by root cutting
and branch pruning.

August loth,
page 386, let me tell you about my trees.
Knoxville, as you are aware is in East
Tennessee, the cold section of the state.
Two of my plants of Magnolia grandi-
fJora measure respectiveh- one foot above
the ground, twenty-one and twenty-six
inches circumference of trunk, and their
spread of branches is fifteenand seventeen
f et. They are fifteen years old and
twenty feet or more high.
They have never been injured by the

i8g4.

GARDENING.

MAGxNOLIA P.-.KVIFLORA

severest cold we have had, and we have
had the mercury down to IT' below zero.
Several winters ago we had it at zero to
€° below, lasting tor a week, which was
^ very unusual spell for this section.
Fortunately my magnolias were not in-
jured by the severe freeze that did so
-much damage to vegetation in the South
last Easter. This applies as well to all
other magnolias in the town. In fact,
my trees are more exposed than any
others. This spring freeze did me serious
injury. My Magnolia stellata was cut
down to the ground.

My weeping cherries, Primus pendula,
■were just through blooming and I was
■obliged to cut the branches away back,
one is high-grafted, the other low. The
lo .V one I trained to a stake till it was
about fifteen feet high. It was white in
bloom, a beautiful sight. A fountain of
pink blooms. They were just through
blooming.

.\ wistaria which covered an iron
trame four feet square at the base and
twenty feet high, at the time was covered
with thousands of blooms, and it came
very near being killed. I had it cut back
to the main stalk and it is now recover-
ing. I will not enuirerate all the trees
and shrubberv that were then injured or
killed. Suffice it to say that I never want
to see such another freeze. W. S. M.

Kno.xville, Tenn.

MftGNOLIfl FflRVIFLORfl.

This is a hardy deciduous shnib or
small tree, indigenous to Japan, and one
of the gems of our gardens. In Garden-
IXG, page 8, September 15, 1892, there
appeared an illustration showing this
species, together with M. Watsoni and
M. bypoleuca in one group, thus afford-
ing us an opportunity of seeing and com-
paring them together. More than that it

was the most natural and truthful picture
of these magnolias ever published. But
in that picture M. parviSora was shown
to such poor advantage that we felt it to
be our duty to show it in more perfect
form and with. good foliage, so we had
this spray photographed early last June.

Small plants not more than fifteen
inches high bear blossoms, and as they in-
crease in size and vigor year after year,
so does their crop of blossoms increase in
proportion. The flowers are pure white,
ovate to round in the bud, openinground
and expanding to saucer shaped, three
and a half to four inches across. In the
middle is a close bunch or cone of bright
red stamens that contrast strikingly with
the pure snowy petals. When growing on
the bushes the flowers are nodding, that
is most of them are drooping face down,
in this point they differ from the flowers
of even,- other hardy magnolia we grow.

The Chinese and hybrid deciduous mag-
nolias as conspicua, Soulangeana, etc.,
begin to bloom before the leaves appear
but this Japanese little beauty, as well as
its contemporaries Watsoni and bypo-
leuca, not till their leaves begin to grow so
that we get both foliage and blossoms at
the same time, thus enhancing their
beauty. And they last several weeks in
bloom. In the ease of parviHora too. we
get a second crop of flowers later in sum-
mer, but not such a heavy one as cordata
gives. While Watsoni is the strongest
scented of all our hard}' magnolias and
hypoleuca next, parviffora is only slightly
fragrant. But the rose bugs seem to be
just as fond of it as they are of the others,
and this means that in' the rose bug sea-
sou, from June 3 till July 10-15, we cannot
get one perfect blossom unless we protect
it against this pest.

This magnolialikesgoodground, moist-
ure and shel er, but not shade, and ills
worthv of it.

T«E JflPflNESE ROSE RUCOSfl.

This hardy Japaneserose(/?osaru^osa)
in its v.hite and pink Ibrms is now devel-
oping its showy heps, the fruitage of its
first, and most profuse bloom, and is at
the same time producing, as it will con-
tinue to do for a long time, scattering
blossoms as well. At all times during the
summer a well grown bush will have
some flowers. While the large, sweet
scented, single blossoms, set against its
most charming foliage is an attractive
feature there is an added beauty when the
heps, large as cherries, have assumed the
color of maturity. From the white flower
comes an orange yellow and from the
pink, a bright red and glossy hep. I use
this r. se for a low hedge, and a more
happy selection could hardly be made. To
onelivingina trying, climate, far away
from the home of the Cherokee, there is
something poetic in the thought of a hedge
of roses. We dream of them, but in that
dream come insect pests, winter-kill,
whale oil soap and hellebore, until we be-
come disgusted, and wake up and con-
clude to banish all roses from the list of
available plants for hedges, but we need
do so no more. Here is a rose perfectly
hardy in most trying climates, free from
all insect attacks, standing hot suns and
moderate drouths, nearly alwavs in
bloom, extremely handsome in its' dark
wrinkled, leathery foliage and attractive
in its bright colored heps. For shrubbery
belts it is well suited, and a good coni-
panion to the equally hardy Rosa rubri-
folia, a European importation which our
insects seem to avoid. W. C. Eg.\n.

Chicago.

TEflS' WEEPING MULBERRY.

I note what you say about growing
this on its own roots. Are you quite sure
this would be the correct thing? The
original tree of this sort was grown from
seed by J. C. Teas of Carthage, Missouri,
some twelve or fifteen years ago. The
original has always ruii on the ground
like a pumpkin vine. The last time I saw
it, it was eight or ten feet long, but none
of its branches reaching upward more
than one and one-half to two feet. It is
claimed by some who have grown it, that
it never develops any stiffness, or abilitj'
to stand upright. "VVe now have a fine
specimen, about nine feet high, two inches
in diameter at the ground, that has been
tied to an iron rod, driven into the
ground. Wooden supports, large enough
to be lasting are unsightlv. I doubt
whether many planters will "be satisfied
with trees on their own roots. If this
style does become popular, it will be a
boon to uurserj-men; as this is a verj- dif-
ficult tree to graft. E. Y. T.

Irvington, Indiana.

There are three specimens at Dosoris,
one seven feet, another nine feet, and the
third eleven feet high, and all on their
own roots, with stems as stifl as a post;
and the last two are still going upward.
But they won'tgo up alone, they have got
to be trained up to a stake; when once up
however they stay up without the help of
any support. When you come East
don't fail to come out here and see
them.

The Umbrella Pine of Japan (Scia-
dopitys verticillata).— Let us give ar
English opinion: "Where the rhododen-
dron thrives the sciadopitys will grow.
Want of attention to this simple fact has
been the cause of much disappointment.
If the sciadopitys is planted in a soil suffi-
ciently retentive to supply a constant sup-

GARDENING.

Sept. I^y

ply of moisture to the roots during the
growing season, there is scarcely any
derartnicnt of ornamental planting into
which it may not be introduced with ex-
cellent etTcct." tkiodadvice to be sure.at
the same time far too restricted. While
the umbrella pine will thrive ijvherever the
rhododendron will in theopea. rhododen-
drons will thrive in the shade, and it won't,
and it will thrivein opensunny exposures
where a rhododendron would burn out.
And it is hardierthanourrhododendrons.
The largest umbrella pine at Dosoris is
lo feet high and a perfect specimen from
the ground to the tip, and it is growing
on a south facing slope, on sandy land,
with a scattering of other trees near it.
But we mulch theground about it heavily
every year, were it not for this mulch-
ing it would burn out.

Cedrus Atlantica argentea is the
name imder which the beautiful glaucous
Mount Atlas cedar tree is now being ad-
vertised. Get it, cost what it may. The
specimen at Dosoris is, we believe, the
handsomest tree of its kind in the coun-
try. It is the tree before which, two
months ago, that veteran arboriculturist
Josiah Hoopes, of Westchester, Pa , un-
covered his head and declared "That is
the loveliest tree I ever saw in mj' life
either in this country or in Europe." You
will find a picture of it in Gardenln'G,
page 163, February 15, '94, engraved
from a photograph of it taken some years
ago. But it has grown and improved in
appearance immensely since then.

Fraxinus Mariesii is a flowering ash
tree from China. It forms a small tree or
large shrub with pinnate leaves — two
pairs and a terminal leaflet— and it is said
to have pure white delightfully fragrant
flowers. Has anvone tried it here?

The Flower Garden.

TflE fLOWER GARDEN.

Because the season is pretty well ad-
vanced don't neglect the flower garden.
Keep everything neat and clean and ap-
pearing to the best advantage. Although
the summer has been so veri- dry that
Jananese anemones are short, and there
is hardly any sfcond crop of delphiniums,
and the salvias have made poor flowers,
and the asters haven't grown to half
their size, and so on through the whole
garden, we have much to be thankful for,
and we can note a few lessons.

.Vmong annuals, French marigolds,
gaillardias, globe amaranths, petunias,
zinnias, sweet alyssum.Drummond phlox,
nasturtiums and verbenas have done ex-
ceedingly well. Sohavethenierembcrgias,
blooming all the time.

Single flowered geraniums have stood
the drouth better than double ones; on
the other hand as soon as the rain came
it destroyed the show of singles more
than of doubles.

Nothing has bloomed better than the
blue and white Cape plumbagos, and the
white, red-eye, and purple flowered
vincas.

The summer hyacinth m succession has
been bloommg for months. Clematis pan-
iculata is a snowy fleece, Pyrethrum
uliginosum is nearing its best, perennial
sunflowers and asters of several kinds are
in good bloom, early planted carnations
have many fragrant flowers, we are cut-
ting June-planted gladioli, cannas are in

the height of perfection, where dahlias do
well they are in fine form, the later trlto-
mas hold aloft their fiery torches and all
manner of vines— moonflowers, dawn-
flowers, coba>a, lophospermum, white,
and blue solanums, aristolochias, and
others are in their heydey.

Work to do in the Borders.— Pull
out all old waste annuals, their presence
after their beauty is passed is an eye-sore.
Cut over all dead stems of hardy peren-
nials, and strip off" dead and decaying
leaves and clear them all awaj'. Put a
stake to the hardy asters, and sun-
flowers in the borders to make them
look tidy, but tie them up loosely and
don't let the stake appear near the top
of the plants, nor the tying be visible.
.\ny seedlings that spring up in the
borders, if needed may be saved either
where they are or lifted and planted
thickly in another reserve bed to be kept
there till next spring. Among such are
hollyhocks, delphiniums, coreopsis, cen-
trauthus, pyrethrums and the like in the
way of hardy perennials, and coreopsis,
larkspur, poppies, gilias and the like in
the line of annuals.

Pick up all the pansies that are coming
up in the borders and plant them some-
what thickly in store beds by themselves
outside or in frames. A.nd you had better
sow some more for sprit g blooming out-
side.

Get together your daisies. Even the
old dried up roots, if the3^ show a few
pieces having green leaves will, if lifted
ami planted in a frame, recuperate won-
derfully before winter sets in and form a
solid mat before spring.

Gather together the little forge f-me-
nots to winter in a frame for spring
planting, or failing that sow some dissiti-
£ora seed in a box or frame for flowers
next spring.

.Although Canterbury bells may prove
hardly enough mixed among the other
plants in sheltered borders if they are
covered a little in winter, we get our
plants together about this time and
plant them in a cold frame, from which
we transplant them to the open border
in spring. Plants raised from seed now,
unless grown in a cool greenhouse all
winter are apt to be too late tor bloom-
ing next spring, for really the plant is a
biennial, and not an annual.

Crown anemones, Heuchera sanguinea,
and some others we raised from seed
and have now in boxes we will plant
thickly into a frame to stay there till
spring, when we shall set them outside.

Gather all the seeds you want, for your
own saved seeds, if your flowers had
been good, are as good as what you can
buy. Among these seeds may be zinnias,
IJrummond phlox, salvia, petunias, core-
opsis, sweet peas, nasturtiums, mignon-
ette, gaura, marigolds, sweet alyssum,
stocks, asters, and so forth. Speaking
of mignonette, reminds us that we heard
recently that there is no white fragrant
mignonette, what is known as the white
mignonette (Reseda alba) is a perennial
and not fragrant at all. Now that is all
nonsense. Reseda odorata only is mig-
nonette, R. alba isn't mignonette at all.
Butaside from that, wegrow Garrawav's
white mignonette, and it is just as white
as R. alba, and as fragrant as any other
mignonette. At the same time along-
side Machet and such other large flow-
ered sorts it isn't worth growing. As a
general thing these kinds are very little
grown except in gnenhouses, but they
are just as good for outside work as
Miles' large-flowered. Crimson King,
Golden Queen,orany of theother common
sorts.

Propagating Plants for Next Year.
— W'e always put in a stock of cuttings of
geraniums, ageratura, coleus, alternan-
thera, double petunias, and the like itt
August or September — thisjearin .A.ugust
and they are all rooted and boxed and
potted off" now — because it is so much
easier to keep them over winter than it is.
to lift a lot of old plants and save them.
We make the cuttings in the ordinary
way and plant them in a bed of sand on
a bench in the greenhouse, but in boxes,
filled with sandy loam, or in a frame, or
in fact a shaded border will do.

But there are lots of plants w-e cannot
treat in this way, for instance abutilons,
hibiscus, cassias, lemon verbenas, and
acalyphas, wood of them made out of
doors does not strike easily. We keep
over a few plants in pots of them in
summer and grow them in thegreenhouse
to get more tractable wood from indoors.
We may except the lemon verbena, we
wait in its case till we get the young
growths in spring; or take the ripened
wood and cut it into short lengths which
we stick into the ground in a pot or box
indoors, or for that matter out of doors-
in spring, like a grapi vine or currant
cutting, and they will grow.

Salvias, cassias, grevilleas, vincas, pep-
per trees, blue gum trees, and the like, all
prefer to raise from seed everv year,
sowing as early as Januarj- or Februarv.

BULBS FOR THE FLOWER GARDEN.

The floral display in our gardens in
spring depends largely on the number and
variety of bulbous plants we have grow-
ing in them, and now is the time to attend
to this matter. Tulips, hj'acinths and
narcissus furnish the bulk" of the bulb
show in spring, but there is a host of
other kinds that we ought also to grow.
All the varieties of these bulbs that are
best for indoor culture are also the best
for growing out of doors, butwhileevery
kind grows well outside, only certain
varieties are satisfactory indoors. Let us
deal with them in detail.

Tulips.— All kinds o( tulips grow well
and bloom well out of doors, but the
varieties used most out of doors are the
same as what we grow in the window or
greenhouse, see Gardening, page 409.
But don't restrict yourselves to that list..
Start at the beginning with Due Van
Thol, mixed and Tournesol,and end with
the Bizarres, Bybloemens, and Darwin
tuKps, and that brilliant beauty Gesueri-
aua. For formal beds thoseof iieathabit,
stocky growth, and fine distinct showy
flowers should be chosen. Good among
these are Bacchus, dark crimson; Belle
Alliance, dark scarlet; Brutus, orange
crimson with yellow margin, Chrysolora,.
yellow; La Reine, white tinged with rose;
Rosa Mundi, faint purpHsh rose; Rose
Grisdelin, rose and white; and Yellow
Prince, yellow. And we can hardly omit
Duchess de Parma and Keizer Kroon,
both reds margined with yellow; the
Pottebakker varieties, scarlet, white and
yellow; Royal Standard, white feathered
with rosy crimson; and Wouverman, deep
purplish violet. Of these named Bacchus,
Brutus, DuchesFe de Parma, La Reine,
Rosa Mundi, Wouverman, and Y. llosv
Prince, bloom at the same time, and at
the planter's discretion can be used in
panels or rings in the same beds where all
are rctpiired to be in flower at once.

Among double tulips the Tournesol
varieties, which are early blooming, are
most grown. But also get La Candeur,
white; Rex Rubrorum, bright red, Gloria
Solis, reddish brown w'ith yellow edge,
and Yellow Rose, yellow. These are late

J8q4-

GARDENING.

.|>

'^^t^s^^K

ji^-. -\ ."

'i

^

A

;^

PARROT TULIPS

flowering and fine. All the double flowered
va ieties bloom well planted out in the
garden.

Don't omit the parrot tulips. Thej^
fire happily among the cheapest and they
are late blooning. Their peculiar fantas-
tic forms and rich coloring render them
great favorites as cut flowers especially
with people who aspire to artistic or
esthetic tastes. They are hardy, easy to
grow, and fine for cutting. Our illustra-
tion is engraved from a photograph of a
Ijuncli of these tulips taken at Dosoris
last May.

Tulips grow well in any ordinary gar-
den soil, but if it is deep, rich, somewhat
sandy, and well drained so much the bet-
ter, and if the conditions are to their lik-
ing the\- are long lived and multiply
freely. While it is well to get them into
the ground as soon as possible October is
the principal month for planting them, in
the case of beds we cannot help this be-
<ause the beds won't be cleared of their
summer occupants before that time.
While it is all right to fill the beds with a
■densearray of tulips, we confess to a weak-
ness lor growing them in narrow borders
very thick, and all kinds mixed together,
then we get flowers from the same patch
from early in April when the Due Van
Thol appears, till the Gesnerianas and
A'ellow Rose are in their heyday well nigh
the end of May. When the earlier varie-
. ties bloom and their petals fall we cut ofl
their seed heads, and everything is neat.
A belt of this sort is illustrated in Gar-
iJENi.NG, front page, September 15, 1893.

H\ ACINTHS.— .\11 Dutch hyacinths grow-
well out of doors and bloom without an\'
■difliculty. What are best for indoors are
Jilso most showy outside, butso ver\'w-ell
do h\-acinths bloom in the open ground

that we usually get the cheapest kinds
for this purpose. The single varieties are
the finest, but all the doubles also do
•well. The first planting will bloom well
no matter how poor the ground may be,
but if you want the bulbs to live and do
well in after years givethem good ground,
such as we have advised for tulips. The
following are quite good cheap varieties:
Alba superbissima, Blanchard, Madame
van der Hoop, Bironess Van Thuyll,
white; Grandeur a Merveille, and Vol-
taire, blush; Norma, Fabiola, Gertrude,
pink; Cosmos, Gigantea, rose; Amy, Bou-
quet Tendre, Robert Steiger, red or crim-
son; Czar Peter, Leonidas, pale blue; and
Blue Morant, Charles Dickens, La Pey-
rouse, and William I, other shades "of
blue. Among double flowered sorts La
Tour d' Auvergne, white; Garrick, blue,
and Lord Wellington, blush, are very
good.

Narcissus.— In the southern states all
kinds are hardy, but about New York the
polyanthus section is tender. But the
finest ot all narcissi, namelv, the large
flowered daff'odils like Hor'sfieldii, Em-
peror and Empress, and Trumpet Major
are perfectly hardv, so arc Orange and
Silver Phoenix, Sir' Watkin, Stella, and all
others of that section. We find too that
in good ground in a warm exposure jon-
quils and biflorus are hardy enough and
increase considerabh-. Thepoet's narcis-
sus comes in a little later, and both the
single and double varieties, and oniatus
the early bloomiug varieties are verj-
hardj', easy to grow, sure to bloom, and
long "lived." We find that all kinds of nar-
cissus like good, deep, rich soil, and a
sheltered, warm spot. It doesn't matter
whether they are grown in the bordersor
in the grass. The poet's varieties look

verj- pretty scattered among the grass
near the outskirts of the lawn fringingthe
wood or shrubber_v, and where the grass
isn't cut over before June. All the large
yellow daffodils look well in clumps or
scattered in the vicinity of water, that is
on the grassy banks, they also look well
in borders, and among other plants in
beds, but alone in a bed they have an
artificial appearance. Plant them accord-
■ jng to size, three, four, or five inches under
the surface of the ground, the lighter the
ground and the smaller the bulb the
deeper j'our plant. We know this isn't as
deep as is usualh' recommended, but it is
what we practice and we get good results.
We have killed a good many bulbs by
over deep planting Like lily bulbs they
work their way down. And by a mulch
ing of loose fine manure over the ground
we can protect them from severe frost in
winter and in this way give them the
equivalent for deep planting just at the
time they most need it.

Snowdrops.— Plant them about three
inches deep in the grass on the lawn or in
the borders, setting one to five bulbs
together, as you wish to have them singly
or in clumps. Make the holes with a
pointed stick or dibber, drop in the bulb,
top up, and press the sod or earth down
over it with 3'our foot to close the hole.
Don't plant the common variety, it istoo
small, get Ehvesii instead.

Crocuses.— Plant one to three together
in good ground, and as recommended for
snowdrops. They are verj- cheap, get lots
of them. Nothing is more cheerful in
spring. Get the large flowered varieties
of golden yellow, blue, white and striped.
While they like sunshine when they are in
bloom they are better to have "a little
shade after that.

Iris. — There are lots of bulbous irises,
for instance retico/ata,alittle beauty that
blossoms when the crocuses do, and
w-hich every one should own. What are
called English, and Spanish irises are
quite cheap and they make a fine show in
early summer. Treat them as you would
daftbdils. The Spanish irises bloom first,
the English ones a fortnight later. There
are other fine species as Persica and
Susiana but they need an extended notice
for themselves.

Siberian SyuiLLS iScilla Sibirica) come
into bloom a little later than thecrocuses.
They have intense blue flowers and thrive
where the crocuses do. Get S. hifolia too,
it is somewhat like the Siberian Of the
S. canipanulata. a large and later bloom-
ing specie there are blue, white and rose
colored varieties, a half dozen bulbs of
each— enough for a clump should be
enough to begin with.

Glory of the Snow- (Chionodoxa)
looks much like a Siberian squ'U and
needs the same treatment. It is lovely.
The commonest one, namely LuciJix is
still the best.

Of Dog's tooth violet (i;ri-t/iron/um)
the European sorts (Dens-canis). and the
Western one igrandifforvm) are the most
desirable, and both are very easy to grow
in rich somewhat moist soil, shaded from
warm sunshine.

The Guinea hen Flower (Fritillaria.
Meleagris) is a nice thing to p'ant in the
borders in the front nearshrubbery where
it can run wild. The flowers are quite
striking, and under good cultivation the
plants bloom freely year after year.

Crow-n Imperial (F. imperialis) —A.
more vigorous plant by far, and an old
fashioned favorite, but it requires good
ground and good cultivation, such as one
would give to choice daff'odils to get it to
bloom vear after vear. To begin with a
few bufbs will suffice.

GARDENING.

Sept. 13,

NOTES FROM EGflNDflLE NEAR CfllCflOO.

The Golden Alstrumeria (.-1. auran-
tiaca), a nativ. of Chili, opened its flow-
ers with me on Jurn- 15. Being som.what
shad d from the afternoon sun it has not
f It the tflf ct of the continued warm
wt ather, and has then fore bloomed con-
stantly and is still full of promis . Its
orange colored, orchid like flow.rs are
very pretty, and not being grown by
many in this climate on account of its"
somewhat tender constitution, it attracts
attention. Plants recei%'ing the ordinary
covering of 1 aves in winter live in well
drain d soil, but do not bloom. Those
planted in wircf baskets and wintered in
a cold frame and again planted in the
spring, basket and all, thrive well and
flower freelv.

The Double-flowered Perennial
Sunflower (Helianthus multiHorus ple-
nus} of unknown garden origin, is in its
prime, thr first flowers appearing July 8.
For effect it should be massed, a doz n or
more p'ants in a group. A fairly good
soil, an open situation and moderate
watering, will produce plants five feet
high, clothed from th; ground up with
dark green leaves. The flowers are very
double, three to three and one-half inches
in diameter, of a golden yellow color and
produced on long stems which, with the
excellent keeping qualities of the flower,
render them valuable for cutting purposes.
This hardy sunflower should be in every
garden^t is a gem of the first water.

Hybrid Delphiniums that were cut
down alter their first bloom are now
opening their second crop, which, while
not as profuse as their earlier efforts, are
still quite welcome. These plants will
thrive in partial shade, but grow so tall
that ungainly staking is required. In the
open they ari more easily handled. These
with D.'forwosuw and"/). grandiBorum
are very hardy and reliable.

Mon.\rda didyma and i\/. tistulosa,
while coarseintheirmake-upand perfume,
are quite effective where color is desired in
a shrubbery border; the first has bright
red flowers and the other one light purple.
There is a form now in bloom on the
Wooded Island more brilliant in masses
than either of the above.

Acanthus mollis and A. latifoliushave
been bearing their odd shaped spikes of
flowers three teet high for some thirty
days, they may be termed more stately
and peculiar than beautiful. Their broad,
glossy, deeply cut leaves are handsome
and well suited to tropical gardening.
But they are not hardy and must be
wintered in a cold frame.

BoccoNiA cordata, termed the plume
I)oppy, bloomed in July, tut its glaucous,
cordate, heavily lobcd leaves, of large size,
are still quite attractive when grouped
among shrubs. The plant grows five to
seven feet high, producing numerous
feathery light buft" color d flowers on
spikes held well above the foliage. It
should be planted in a bottomless box or
keg to prevent it suckering, and it should
be well protected with leaves iu winter.

Catananche ccerulea has been in
bloom over two weeks and is still in its
prime. It belongs in th' shrubbery to
interest day visitors, as it closes its flow-
ers at sun down. They are carried well
above the foliage on stemscighteeninches
high, light blue in color, with a dark
purjjle centre, and by many are taken for
the old fashioned blue bottle {Ccntaurea
cyanus). It is very hardy a.id reliable
[and easily raised from seed, Ed].

Lychnis Chai.ckdonica. The double
form of this Russian scarlet lamp flower
is so superior to the single that there is

wane, but for over a month in a partially
shaded position, a groupoladuzen plants
has been very attractive. Its briUiant,
dense clusters of bloom are carried well
above the foliage and attain a height of
thr e feet. It is perfectly hardy.

SriR.BAS. The herbaceous S. lohata has
still left a few of its handsome feathery
peach blossom blooms, terminal on long
stiff stalks. A mass of this Queen of the
Prairie, in a damp spot, is a handsome
sight.

Shrubs. Spinea Doaglassi and its Cali-
fornia variety S. Nobleana are rather
pleasing shrubs growing three feet high,
producing at this season slender rose
colored panicles above the tips of the
foliage. S. towentosa, a somewhat simi-
lar Ibrm, is also in bloom. 6". Billiardi
and the various catalogued forms of S.
Japonka are making th ir second crop of
blooms, the first having been cut off.
These are low growing shrubs producing
their pink or white flower heads in flat
terminal corymbs, and are valuable in
flowering at a season when most shrubs
are at r. st.

Clethra alnifolia, growing in a
partially shaded position has white, sweet
scented terminal racemes that gladden the
hearts of the bees. It grows four or more
feet high and is a welcome addition to the
shrubbery'. ,

Hypericums. The hybrid H. Moser-
anum wintered in a cold frame, is just
through blooming; H. aureuni and H.
prolitjcuw are past their prime, while H.
Kalmianum is in good bloom. The latter
and H. aureum are planted in partial
shade. This is a beautiful group of plants
that should be us d more freely in this
section. One seldom sees them, and the
beauty of the flowers, especially of iV/oserf-
anum and aureum always captivates the
ladies. H. aureum grows about three
feet high and produces terminal, lightyel-
low flowers resting upon the dark green
leaves of the tips of the branches, wdiich
form an emerald setting. The petals, five
in number are three-fourths of an inch
long, and one-half broad in their wildest
part, reflexed, and resting upon the leaves.
The exceedingly numerous stamens of the
same color form a "puff ball" that might
be made of silk floss. This "ball" is an
inch in diameter and half as high. The
reflexing of the petals lessen the diameter
of the flower to an inch and a half. H.
aureum and H. Kalmianum are hardy
witl out protection; H. prolificum has
not passed a winter here yet. H. Mos-
erianum should be wintered inside.

Rosa Wichuraiana, a recent acquisition
from Japan, has proved hardy here with
ordinary protection except that the tips
may freeze back some. It is strictly a
creeping rose, taking root at intervals
along its branches wherever a favorable
opportunity occurs. Its leaves arc small
and glossy. Its flowers are an inch and a
half in diameter, single, pure white, and
with numerous j-ellowstamcns. Planted
on a slightly raised mound with a pillar
rose for a center, it will cover the ground
completely and either in bloom or not, it
presents a handsome appearance.

W. C. E.

WINTERING VARIOUS flflRDY PLANTS.

I have the enclosed list of plants start-
ed in a cold frame. I propose pricking
some of each out and carrying them over
winter in the frame, planting out in the
spring. Other plants (of each also) I
think of planting out this fall where they
are to grow and protect them through
the winter, hoping to succeed with one,
if not both, system-;

1. Will you kindly say if my plan is a
good one?

2. What time this fall should I plant
out those destined for the outside treat-
ment?

,S. How to protect the outside ones.

4. How to treat those in the frame.

Flushing, N. Y. J. B. G.

list of plants i wish to keep over

winter.

1. Anemone Japonica alba, A. J. rosea.

2. Aquilegia cbrysantba alba, .4.
Grigor's hybrid glan'dulosa.

3. Asclepias tuberosa.
4r, Asperula odorata.

0. Boltonia latisquama.
G. Coreopsis lanceolata.
7. Callirhoe lineariloba.

S. Delphinium Brunonianum, D. car-
dinale, D. Casbmerianum, D. grandi-
iJorum II. pi.

9. Diantbus double standard. Tree or
perpetual, dwarf early Margaret, double
rose Margaret, double white Margaret.
D. dentosus. D. barbatus, Picotee pinks
Eastern Queen, Crimson Belle and double
white China.

10. DigitalisgrandiHora. gloxinia-like,.
D. purpurea rosea,

11. Genliana cruciata.

12. Geuni atrosanguineum pi.

13. Lobelia cardinalis, Emperor Will-
iam, L. syphilitica.

1-t. Lychnis Haageana hybrida.

15. Linaria biennis.

16. Myosotis alpestris, alba and
rosea.

17. Nycterinia selaginoides.
IS. CEnothera grandiHora.

19. Papaver orientale, P. nudicaule,
P. nudicaule album and aurantiacum.

20. Pentstemon antirrhinoides, P.
Clevelandii. P. beteropbyllum.

21. Primula Cashmeriana, P. Japon-
ica.

22. Rudbeckia Newmanii.

23. Stylopborum dipbyllum.

24. Valeriana alba and rubr,i.

25. Verbena hybrida.

1. Yes, capital. Not only will you be
sure to save some plants of each sort, but
it will be a lesson in practical experience
worth having.

2. .\t once. Planting early gives the
young p'ants a chance to make fresh
roots and take a goodliold of the ground
before winter sets in. This is one of the
greatest safeguards against heaving by
frost. Planting out in fall, if into their
blooming places, is apt to give us sturdier
plants, hence finer flo wers, than we get
the first season from spring planted
stock.

3. A few tree leaves strewn over the
plants and held in place by some dirt,
sedge, straw or evergreen branches will
save the somew-hat tender sorts, or some
rough litter or dryish stable manure will
answer the same purpose. Some ever-
green branches, as spruce, fir, pine, red
cedar, or arbor vitae laid over the plants
are excellent in the case of comparatively
hardy sorts; they shade them from sun-
shine" and sudden thawing, collect and
hold scattering leaves, also snow, and
prevent heaving by frost.

4. The frame should face any point
from east to southwest, southeast being^
the most desirable. Its purpose is to act
as a storehouse in which to keep certain
plants in safety over winter; you don't
want to hurry up these plants or keep
them in active growing condition as you
would pansies or violets, hence the frame
should be kept cool. Facing a sunny
point instead ol a sunless one is to render
less covering to exclude frost necessary.

GARDENING.

In filling the frame, economize the space,
keep the several plants of like nature to-
gether, and give each one no more
.room than is necessary to planting out
time next .\])ril. Before winter sets in
let the plants in the frame have all the
weather that comes even to several de-
grees of frost, and when you do put the
sashes and covering on, let it be to keep
in the little frost as much as to keep out
the hard frost. A mild equable tempera-
ture is what we want. Ventilate freely
in open weather, but exclude sunshine in
win er if practicable, except lo dry and
sweeten the frame, as w c >1i<mi1(I aim to
avoid stimidating the phints into gio a th
Expose them freely towards siiring, and
lift them with good roots and balls in
early spring and plant them out of doors

The list of plants: We have grouped
the plants of a kind together and num-
bered them, to enable us to answer about
them more eas-ily.

1. Both of these anemones are per-
fectly hardy, but if planted now they will
make very little root growth this season.
We would plant them thicker in a cold
frame, jtist to winter the roots safel}- and
set them out permanentlv next spring.

2. Chrysantha is perfectly hardy and
should be planted out at once; if the
plants of the variety alba are strong,
plant them out too, but if weak keep
them in the frame. Grigor's columbine,
however, should be wintered in the frame.
It is a lovely little beaut_v, hardy but
miffy. Treat it as a biennial.

3. Plant out the asclepias roots, they
are as hardj- as rocks. But beside each
root set a deep stout peg to mark the
place, for as the tops die down to under
the ground, and the plants start to grow
(|nite late in spring we are apt to forget
where thev are and dig them over.

4-. In the frame only. While it might
do all right out of doors, transplanted
now, it makes so little root growth at
this time of year that frost in winter is
apt to heave it out of the ground.

o. Plant it out, mark its place with a
stout peg. and throw a little light mulch
over the crown in winter to keep the frost
from disturbing it.

6. Plant it out. Young plants, even
as late as this, make good roots before
winter sets in. It is quite hardy.

7. Keep it in a frame. V\ e were the
first to cultivate this plant. It is easily
raised from seed, but it isn't a tough or
long-lived plant.

S. Brunoniamim and Casbmen'anum
may be planted out in dryish ground,
and a little rough mulching placed over
or around them in winter. Grandiflorum
is hardy enough, and the deep blue, pale
blue and white single flowered forms are
very pretty, but we don't think you will
care mucli for the /?. pi., if you have
raised it from seed. This species is as
easily raised from seed as any annual
larkspur, and it blooms the first summer.
What is known as Delphinium Breckii is
simply a deep blue double flowered form
of this species. It is good, so too, are the
old double blue and pale blue, we used to
grow and perpetuate by division, but
they are mifl'y, hence very scarce. The
seedling doubles, however, contain lots
of trash. Canlinale is a tuberous species.
Better gather its roots together, winter
them in the cold frame and plant them
out singly in spring. Although lots of it
are raised fioni seed every year and
grown in our gardens, we seldom sec it
in good condition.

9. Diantbus dentosus is hardy and
may be planted outside. Bnrbatus is the
sweet william of gardens, and may be

planted in a bed outside and mulched a
little in winter. Tree or perpetual are
the same as our winter lilonniiiiL; -nen-
house carnations, and imil llic lin.ice-
tion of a frame. If tin- .\lai ^,in i rani.i-
tions have been blooming tins sninnier
the same plants are hardly worth saving
over winter; raise young plants from cut-
tings or seed. But if they are young keep
them in a cold frame over winter and
plant them out in spring. Picotees are a
race of summer blooming carnations and
should be kept in the h'ame. Although
Chinese pinksoften live out of doors over
winter, it is always best to give them a
frame protection, and plant them out in
April.

10. Digitalis is the botanical name of
foxglove. Seedlings of all three when
they come up among the bushes in the
garden seem to be perfectly hardy, but in
open beds they are nut. We plant them
in a bed in rows 15 inches apart, and
in winter mulch them over w^ith some
tree leaves and sedge or branches to keep
the leaves in place.

11. If the plants were established out-
side we should leave them there; but if
they are young and in frames we should
advise let them alone till spring.

12. Double geums are hardy enough
and may be left out or kept in a bed or
frame. If the variety is good winter it
under cover.

13. In a slightly shaded, moistish,
sheltered place the cardinal flower and its
varieties live and thrive in our gardens,
and we should plant them out now, and
lay an everJreen branch over them in
winter. The same w'ith the great blue
lobelia (syphilitica), except that it is a
tougher plant than cardinalis.

14-. If it is outside now let it stay
there; indeed young plants may be
planted out now and mulched a little in
winter. We raise them from seed every
year, treating them as annuals.

15. Plant it out in a bed or border,
and transplant to where you want it in
spring. It is a coarse biennial, but makes
quite a show of white flowers.

16. Myosotis or forget-me-nots that
selfsow themselves about the borders
here come up in fall, and live nicely with-
out any further protection than the
shelter afforded by the bushes and herb-
aceous plants, and bloom charmingh- in
spring. But we find that those raised
from seed in the ordinary way aren't
quite so amiable, and we give them the
shelter of a frame, and then they bloom
all the earlier in spring for us.

17. This is an annual. Do you find it
hardy with you? It is a gem of a little
plant. Sown in the fall, it may live over
winter in the frame, but not outside. We
have grown it for years as a summer
bloomer, raising it from seed in spring.
We never tried to keep it over winter.

IS. Plant it out, and lay an ever-
green branch over it in winter. It is
hardy enough.

19. The oriental poppy is hardy
enough, and starts to grow a little in
fall. Plant it out now. The other two
(mtdicaule) are what are known as Ice-
land poppies, and although t'lej- are very
hardy, if the plants are small they are as
well in the frame; if large, and the border
in w^hich they are growing is raised
enough to be above water lying on it at
any time in winter, we would as soon
plant them out as ke>p them in the
frame.

20. All the pentstemons we should
keep in the frame.

21. With lonsiderable care both of
these primroses will succeed out of doors,
but the best results with Cashmeriaiia

are got from the frame, both as regards
growing and blooming. We should keep
Ja]i<iiiica in the iVanie this winter and
plant it out next spring in a moist,
Inintly shaded, well pidtected spot, and
let the ripe see Is lall upon theground and
produce young plants, thus getting up a
natural colon v of them.

22. Being "perfectly hardy, plant it
out, and lay a spruce or fir branch over
it in winter to keep it from heaving.

23. Outside, and plant it at once.
Goodly sized plants don't transplant
well unless they are pot grown.

24- Both do well with us out of doors
in winter, at the same time as it isn't a
castiron ])lant, it is well to have some
young plants kept in a frame and planted
out early in spring.

25. In a frame only, and a snug and
warm frame at that. As verbenas set
seeds so freely, and seedlings grow so
easily and bloom so profusely, we never
keep over old plants now, the voung
crop is raised from seed every year.

WILD PLANTS IN BLOOM SEPIEMBBR 4.

One of the most beautiful flowers of the
season is the cardinal flower {Lobelia car-
dinalis). Tho gh mostly found in wet
meadows, it does almost as well in ordi-
nary situations in the garden. Like all
handsome flowers it is becoming extinct
near our large cities, .\nother species, the
great blue lobelia (L. syphilitica), is also
a handsome one, and more plentiful here
than the other. Both are in fine bloom.

Another bush trefoil (Desmodium Dil-
lenii), has come into bloom recently, it is
an erect growing sort, bearing purple flow-
ers. Lespedeza Stiuvei, a bush clover,
grows two to three feet high, in dry soils
and bears violet colored flowers. The bien-
nial gaura, a beautiful, tall growing plant
with pretty, rosy red flowers graces the
banks of the Schujdkill river. Among
eupatoriums some are pretty and some
not. The hoarhound, which gives us its
white flowers now, must be classed with
the last. But it is valued for its medici-
nal properties.

Rain is required to bring along many
of our asters. Puniceus, the strong grow-
ing one found along the ditches, and
w'hicli has reddish stems and pale purple
flowers, is fairly well in bloom. So is
cordifolias, a bold aster with pale bltie
flowers, and found in open woods.

Thecurious parastic beech drops( Epiphe-
giis Virg-iniana) is abundant on the roots
of the beech hereabouts. It has dull red
stems and brownish white flowers. A
botanical friend tells me he has found it
growing on the roots of other trees, but
this has not been within niy experience.

The beggar ticks, coeklebur and bur
marigold, all bold weeds, are in bloom
but they make no floral show. Golden
rods CSolidago), display themselves
slowly; puberula, ulmifolia and cxsia, all
tall growing, make a fine display of their
yellow blossoms, but many other kinds
are not yet in bloom. A sunflower
{Heliantbus decapetahis), found along
streams, giows three to four feet high
and makes a prominent display of yellow
blossoms.

The wild radish (Rupbaniis Raphanis-
trum), yellow flowered, has appeared in
this vicinity in some abundance.

The fragrant foliage of the American
pennyroyal (Hedeonia pulegoides) makes
pleasant a walk through dry fields. The
horse mint {Monarda punctata) is abund-
ant in sandy fields; its yellow and red
flowers are very pretty. In the same
order are the spearmint [Mentha viridis)
and the peppermint {M. piperita).

• • • GARDENING.

Sept. yj,

On dryish hills, the hawkweed (Hiera-
cium scabrum) shows large heads of yel-
low flowers. In similar places and along
hedge rows the wild Xettuce: (Mulgedium
acuminatum) finds a place. The flowers
are blue.

The water pepper (Polygonum Hydro-
piper), rosy green, and P. arifolium, with
whitish flowers, grow in wet ground. The
hedge hyssop (Lophanthus nepetoides),
bears greenish yellow flowers.

Among wild orchids we have the beauti-
ful yellow fringed orchis (Habenaria
ciliaris) which is passing out of flower. It
inhabits swamps, whereits brightorange
colored flowers make a fine display. An-
other beautiful orchid, growing in dry
woods, is the rattlesnakeplantain (Good-
yera pubescens) . It has spikes of small
white flowers, and silvery netted leaves.

Philadelphia. " J. Meeh.w.

ANNUALS FOR SOWING IN THE FAIL.

E. C. W., asks about what annuals he
should sow in the fall, and if they can be
sown between rows of narcissi planted
fifteen to twenty inches apart, thusecon-
oniising space. There are two classes of
annuals to sow in the fall, namely, such
as poppies, larkspur, cornflower, moun-
tain fringe, golden corydalis, coreopsis,
and evening primrose that we mean to
germinateiight away and make nice little
plants before winter sets in and others as
sweet psas, and eschscholtzia, that we
want to stay in the ground over winter
w ithout g( rminating till spring.

The object in sowing in the fall is to get
good sturdy plants that wil bloom early
In fact poppies, larkspur, and com flower
sown in fall also make finer plants than
do the same sorts raised irom seed in
tpring. And tliev are perfectly hardy.
But there are two draw backsto fal sow-
ing, first, we seldom have the ground
cleared and ready for it in time, secondly,
unless we have our own saved feed we
are not likely to get fresh seed at the seed
store at this time of the year, and what
sane person would sow old poppy seed
knowing it to be such?

While a bed of narcissus in spring set in
a carpet of fall sown annuals may sound
very pretty, we can assure you, the car-
pet has a very weedy effect in spring. But
we do this very thing. We have narcissi
in rows and the whole ground is covered
with fall sown poppies; the narcis.si bloom
in April and May, and the poppies in
June. By the end of the month thcv are
mostly over, and we interplant between
the narcissus with rose geranium, zinnias
or other summer plants.

But aside from sowingin open bedsyou
can sow in patches in the borders or any-
where. Fork over or unfasten the ground
as for spring sowing, rake it level and
smooth, sow the seed, rake it in lightlv,
and pack with the head of the rake or
back of the spade. Don't cover the seed
deep. In winter if the ground is heavv
and there is danger of heaving the seed-
lings spread some 1 ght mulching over
them.

Sweet peas, portulacca. eschscholtzia,
and the like if so «n in fall should be de-
laved till October, for if they germinate in
fall the chances are thev will get winter
killed.

I'ansies sown now and pricked off later
will winter well. MountaiT fringe sown
about some bushes or in a sheltered spot
will make nice rosettes and run carlvnext
spring. Besides the ordinarv annual lark-
spurs the Chinese and other perennial
!!Orts, if sown now, will grow nicely, win-
ter well, and make blooming plants next
t-ummer. The same with loxgloves, onlv

the seed should be dropped among the
bushes where the little plants can be kept
snug and warm over winter, forget-me-
nots, the same. Calendulas often live
over winter. But Drummond phlox,
although pre tj' hai'dy, tisuallj' succumbs
to the changeable and cold spells of late
winter, so docs mignonette, .\lthough
petunias come up in vast (juantity wher-
ever the old plants have gro A-n, the seed-
lings get winter killed Affinis tobacco
also comes up in quantity from seed, but
gets killed in winter. Although vinca,
ageratum, amarantus, and several other
common garden plants grow so freeh-
from self-sown seed, not one of them is
hardy; indeed, the ageratum excepted,
they seldom germinate till dangerof frost
is past in spring.

Of course there is a long list of annuals
that we find recommended for autumn
sowing in Europeangardeningbooks.but
our experience limits tbe list very much.
In the south and mild localities elsewhere
many annuals thrive better when sown
in fail than in spring.

SOME WORTHY ANNUflLS.

Of the newer or rarer annuals this sea-
son I am well pleased with the Little
Brow nie marigold. It is a compact little
plant, eight or ten inches high and the
same in bnadth, and makes a fine edging
for a border. Its brown and yellow
flosiers are showy and attractive, and
although single I think it much prettier
than if it w^re double. Early and con-
tinuous in flowering, strong resistance to
drouth and easy to grow are additional
commendations. Another fine edging
plant is ag ratum Tapis Bleu, which is
quite dwarf and compact, very floriferous,
of a fine bright blue color, and fr e from
the dirty look that most of the agera-
tums have.

The little dwarf blue lobelia is also one
of the best of plants for an edging, its
intense bluecolorandabundan'.e of bloom
make it very attractive. Another fine
little plant to which 1 am very partial is
Gypsopbila muralis. It is nothing .ike as
attractive as the others, and hence is apt
to be pass d by, but when attention is
called to it, the delight is unbounded in its
little delicate flowers and the elegant
spra3'ing appearance o) the plant. Thesan-
tolina or lavender cotton, with its slender
twig-like growth, compact form, grayish
or silvery looking foliage, and fine fra-
grance is another fine plant for the front
of the border. This however, is a plant
that gro « s readily from cuttings.

Among the other of th ■ newer annuals
in cultivation is Cassia cbamiechrista, our
native partridge pea. This is not a new
))lant, but it has been strangely over-
looked. It grows about two feet high,
with acacia-like foliage, some a hat resem-
bling the sensitive plant, and has short
slender branches and abundance of bright
canary yellow flowers, two of the petals
having a brownish purjile spot at the
base; the whole plant has a delicate airy
app arance w^hich makes it a lovable
thing. Comet asters are proving very
fine. The long wavy ])ink ])etals mar-
gined with white makes it an ilegant,
lovely flower, and one of tiK' most desira-
ble of all the asters. Being semi-dwarf
and flowers w ith stems suthciently long
to cut arc also in its favor. It must be-
come very jjopular. Yick's new white
branching asters is just coming into
bloom. It was elegantwith me last year
and came at a time when asters were past
their prime. It large pure white, chrys-
anthemum-like flowers, long stems and
verv floriferous eharac er, ninkeit invalu-

able for cut flowers w^hen others are get-
■ ting scarce. It is a novelty of sterling
merit.

Howard's strain of lilliput zinnias are
indeed little darlings. I cannot prjise
them too highly, .\fter two years trial
I find them indispensable. Of thedianthus
or Chinese pinks The Bride, Crimson
Belle and Eastern Queen have been very
large, fine and atTractive. They are all
single and very choic •. Of the same kind
is the Cyclops pinks which have the addi-
tional recommendation of having the
delicate clove fragrance of the carnation,
which none of the other China pinks have
and which makes the Cyclops quite indis-
pensable. Geo. S. Coxover.
Geneva, N. Y. Aug. 29, 189-i.

HflRDY CYCLflMENS.

E. R., Plainfield, N. J., asks: Are any of
the hardy cj-clamens of the European
catalogues hardy and desirable in the
vicinity of New York?

Yes, under special conditions. Some
kinds as Coum and Atkinsi bloom in w in-
ter and early spring, rermun a.nd Ibiricum
in spring, and Europxum, and hederx-
folium from late summer during fall. All
have tub rous rootstoeks, and these
should be planted underground, not half
above ground, as we grow the Persian
c\clamcn. All love well drained but
moderately moist ground, well mixed
with vegetable mould or old leaf soil, and
they must have protection from warm
sunshine ai d sweeping winds. They are
not fitted for cultivation in the open bor-
der. The east or southeast face of a gen-
tle sloping rockerv is a good place for
th m providing they also have slight
shade. In a cold frame against the
north facing wall of a building suits them
firstrate, in fact in such a place they
would make admirable companions for
Christmas roses. Although they are gener-
ally considered as being perf ctly hardy
and we have i ad several of them live and
thrive year after year, in the rockery at
Cambridge, near Boston, they should
have protection in winter; this can be
given in the way of a favored warm nook
in the rockery, a few — not many — dry oak
leaves, and some fresh spruce or fir
branch s. But if you wish to enjoy them
to th ir fullest extent and get the good of
their flowers, grow them in shaded cold
frames. The ivy leaved {hedera^tolium)
and Eurof)ean(Europaeura)have delight-
fullv fragrant blossoms.

Ager.\tums, nuE .\xi) white.— E. R.,
Plainfield, X. J., asks: What is the
brightest blue, dwarf ageratum, and
which is the best of the dwarfwhiteones?

Mr. F. Kanst, of South Park, Chicago,
replies: The bluest ageratum, although
not very dwarf, is called Cope's Pet. It
grows to about one foot high. I can not
say anything about dwarf white agera-
tum I do not use any as I could never
find any white enough to suit me

The Greenhouse.

T«E GREENHOUSE.

See that ever\'thing is tight and snug
about the gl zing on the roof and sides,
that the benches are solid and strong,
that the heating apparatus is in perfect
running order, and all is in good enough

J8g4-

GARDENING.

BROCKWORTH PARK PEAFS

condition to brave the winter. All re-
pairs and alterations should be made be-
fore the plants indoors are rearranged
and those that were summering outside
are brought in. It is much easier to do
this now than later on when the houses
are more crowded with plants.

The plants, too, should be clean, and in
good condition as regards their roots in
the i)ots. there should be no worms in the
earth and the pots should be well drained.

Rearrange the greenhouses. In the
summer time the most tropical plants
were at home in any of the greenhouses,
but now they must be returned to their
warmer quarters, the home of crotons,
marantas, ixora, and the like. In tem-
perate quarters, that is in the com])art-
ments having a minimum winter temper-
ature oi about 50° most anything will
grow. Plants kept for fine foliage only
as draca^nas, crotons, palms, and ferns,
do not need sunshine in winter, the sun-
niest places should b • reserved for plants
that bear showy blossoms.

Get the poinsettias indoors at once,
cold nights and heavy rains will yellow
their leaves and rot their roots.

All begonias such as rubra, manicata,
insig-nis, fuchsioides, and other perma-
nent evergreen sorts should also be
brought indoors, but annual sorts like
Vernon, and deciduous kinds like the
tuberous-rooted begonias and Evansiana
may be left out till irost kills their tops.
Some of the stockiest tuberous begonias
if lifted and potted and brought into the
house or greenhouse will make handsome
blooming plants till Nov. mber, and if
you w ant any seed from them the best
way to get it is from plants lifted and
potted in this way, for they don't ripen
many seeds out of doors. Vernon, on the
other hand matures an abundance of
seed, planted out.

Cacti if left out longer are apt to rust,
and it is incurable. Keep them drv over-
head. ■ •

Most of the commercial florists have
their carnations all housed, they plant
them out on benches. We grow six hun-
dred plants in pots, they arc now up and
potted, and plunged to "half their depth
in beds in the frame ground, where they

root nicely. It doesn't do to plunge
potted plants to their brim outside now,
for any flooding from rain is sure to rot
the roots.

Paris daisies, berried solanums, stevia,
eupatorium, genista, callas, freesias,
chrysanthemums, and the like that are
growing in pots, in beds in the frame
ground are all washed and ready at a
moment's notice, in the event of the ap-
pearance of frost, to take indoors. Here
we seldom get frost before October.
While a slight frost does not apparently
hurt azaleas, freesias, carnations, obcon-
ica primroses, and some others, it doesn't
do them any good, and it is far better to
be on the safe side and protect our plants.
In order to retard the blooming of
azaleas, genistas, and stevias as much as
possible we store a lot of them in cold
pits, the azaleas keep well there all
winter, but we have got to watch the
others very closely and pile lots of cover-
ing over them in winter to keep out frost,
for it will destroy them.

Put in a lot of cuttings, if you haven't
done so before now, of "Lady Washing-
ton," or show pelargoniums. As soon as
they are rooted and potted off you can
afford to throw away the old roots and
thus economize room.

Pot or box up a succession of hyacinths,
tulips, narcissus, freesias, ixias, and the
like.

Encourage your cyclamen to grow,
also Chinese primroses, cinerarias and
calceolarias. They like a cool house, a
plac • near the glass, and a faint shading.

Wl.NTERIXG ChRVSANTHEMIMS — M. E.

M.,Malone,N. Y., asks: Afterchrysanthe-
mums are done blooming in the house
what sort of care do they need to preserve
them through the winter? Should they
be w^atered?

Cut them down close to the pot. Place
them where they can be kept quite cool
through the winter, say in a cellar, pit or
frame. The earth must be kept somewhat
moist at all times, but this is an easy mat-
ter when the plants are cool and at rest.
Or vou ma V tin-n the plants out of the i)ots

and pack them tightly together, heads up
in a box, as an old soap box, when they
will be easier to keep moist in winter,
still keeping them in the ce lar or pit. If
the frost is likel.v to get at them cover
them with some old matting, carpet, hay
or leaves. A little irost will do the roots
no harm, but if they are inpotsfrostmay
burst the pots. They will winter very
well in a dull sunless window of a cool
room, if you don't need the place for any-
thing else. At Dosoris we grow a lot of
chrysanthemums in 5 and 6inch pots,
also planted out here and there, and when
they are done blooming we cut them
down, tying the names to the stumps,
then turn those in pots out of their pots,
and plant all close together in a cold
frame there to remain till spring. The
frame is well banked around with earth,
and sashes put on and some sedgt over
tlie glass to help keep hard frost out. We
ventilate only a little in fine weather, till
towards spring, when we do away with
the covering, except the sashes, alto-
gether. In early spring we get fine fat
cuttings from this frame, or we can lift,
divide, and replant the old plants, and in
this way get a fine stock of plants for the
next season.

The Fruit Garden.

PEAR BROCKWORTH PARK.

.Although this is an uncommon pear in
American gardens, it is one we might
plant more of with profit. It grows and
fruits very well at Dosoris, in fact it
never misses a crop with us. The fruit is
large, oblong, obtuse pyriform; the skin
is pale yellow with greenish or russety
specks on it, and occasionally a faintl_v
blush cheek. The flesh is white, melting,
buttery, and juicy, at the same time
hardly of superior quality. The trees are
very prolific, and the pears of uniformly
good size, and if we thin them early, they
become quite large. They ripen about
the end of August and first oi September,
immediately after the Bartletts, and at
the same time as Boussock and Seckel.
It thriveswell as a dwarf tree. Our illus-
tration is engraved from a photograph
of some of these pears grown at Dosoris.

RASPBERRY, BLACKBERRY, AND CURRANT
BUSflES.

Nevi- plants of the black raspberry are
started this month by covering the tips
with moist soil, two or three inches deep
and allowing them to remain until spring.

Plants from the currant and gooseberry
may now be made by selecting strong,
new growth, cutting in pieces six or eight
inches long, and setting at once in moist,
rich soil, leaving one or two buds above
the ground. Cuttings may also be buried
in sand, away from irost, and set inearlj^
spring.

For the northwest, the true Ancient
Briton black berry stands without a rival.
In black caps the Ohio, Palmer. Progress
and Older for early, and Nemeha and
Gregg for late. Shaffer's Colossal (pur-
ple) for quality and productiveness is un-
excelled, for family use. Marlboro and
Cuthbert i'or reds arc the best well tested
varieties. The "London," a grand bern.-,
promises to supersede all others.

The value of a berry often depends on
location and cultivation. As poor berries
improve with high culture, so good
deteriorate with neglect. The best berries
are produced onlv bv the best culture.

Sparta, Wis. " ' M. A. Th.wer.

GARDENING.

Scft.

«EDENIM6

William Falconer, Editor.

Pl-BLISHEI) THE 1ST AND loTH OF EACU MllXTH

THE GARDENING COMPANY,

Monon Building, CHICAGO.

Subscription Price. J2.0O a Tear— SI Numbers.

tlslDK rates on aoDllcatlon.
Entered at Chicago postoffice as second-class i
Copyright, 1S«. by The Gardening Co.

All communications relating to subscriptions, adver-
tlsemenls and other business mutters should he
addressed to The Gardening Company. Monon :

. Chicago, and all matters pertaining to the
lepartment of the paper should be addressed to
Kdltc " - ....--

Kdltorot Garden

and I

desire to help you.

ASK Axv OuESTioxs you please about plants,
flowers. frult«, vegetables or other practical gardening
matters. We will take pleasure In answering them .

Se.vu us Notes of your e.\perlence In gardening In

perhaps we can help you.
Send rs Photographs or Sketches of your

1..™..^™ 1 — „ houses, fruits, vegetables, or

i that we may have them en-

TRE

CONTENTS.

I SHRUI

Mountain laurel (illus) .

Hedge plants for Washington •>

Transplanting trees . 2

Magnolia grandiflora hardy in Teun 2

Magnolia patviflora (illus) 3

The Japanese Rosa rugosa 3

Teas' weeping mulberry . . 3

The umbiella pine ol Japan ! ! 3

Cedrus Atlantica argeulea i

Fraxinus Mancsii 4

THE FLOWER GARDEN.

The flower garden 4

Bulbs for the flower garden . i

Parrot tulip? (illus) .'.'.. 5

Notes from Egandale near Chicago 6

Wintering various hardy plants (i

Wild plants in bloom Sept. 4 7

.\nnuals for sowing in the fall 8

Some worthy annuals . . S

Hardy cyclamen . . ! ! 8

Ageratums, blue aud white . i

THE GREENHOUSE.

The greenhouse 8

Wintering chrysanthemums 9

THE FRDIT GARDEN.

Pear Brockworth Park (ilius) 9

Raspberry, blackberry and currant bushes ... 9

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN.

The vegetable garden 11

Good potatoes 11

The Japanese climbing cucumber II

JIUSHROOMS.

.Mushrooms iu Florida ...... ....... 12

PUBLISHER'S DEPARTMENT.

Two dollars a year 14

Lvcri.iA GRATissiMA aiid Acacia pubcs-
cens. If anyone has got plants of these to
sell, will they please advise us?

Bego.nias oltof nooRS.— Thce.xtremely
dry weather of this summer has been ver'v
adverse to the well beiiijj of tuberous
begonias, and it is only by the closest
attention to mulching and watering they
have been kept in good condition. Hut
the Hegonia Xernon is doing well every-
where. It is a stockygrower, easily raised
from seed, and stands our open summer
weather first rate. There are plain green,
bronze green, crimson tinged, and yellow
leaved varieties of it, and with blossoms
varying from white to crimson. And we
observe in some pretentious cases where
tuberous begonias were planted early in
the summer, they are now removed and
their places filled with this Vernon
begonin.

A DOUBLE FLOWERED EGYPTIAN LOTCS.

—Among Mr. Tricker's pond lily exhibit
at Atlantic City last month we noticed a
double flower of Nelumbium speciosum.
Its inner petals were much crowded and
there were about a hundred of them.

Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora
may he regarded as the most indispensa-
ble shrub in our gardens. It is hardy
over a large extent uf country, and easy
to grow and sure to bloom, and it blos-
soms in August and September, when
trees or shrubs in flower are very scarce.

All-summer-long flowers.— For an
unbroken supply of flowers all summer
long few things are better than petunias,
verbenas, Drummond phlox, gaillardias,
geraniums, heliotrope, sweet alyssum,
torenia, Vernon begonia. Plumbago
capensis, vinca, globe amaranth, and
cannas.

The variegated Japanese hop vine
is a perfect gem, the more we see of it the
better we like it. Of course people who
are averse to variegated plants will have
no use for it because it is variegated. Our
plants are now in bloom and the mi!t of
gray blossc ms against the pillar of dis-
tinctly white and green foliage is very
beautiful.

The one thousand flower sun
flower is a very tall growing annual
with medium sized show)' flowers, yellow
with dark center, and although it branches
considerably it is more branchy near the
top than near the bottom, hence becomes
top heavy. Only in a sheltered place will
it stand alone without danger of break-
ing down by the weight of its own top,
let alone a wind and rain storm.

Hypericum Moserianum is giving great
satisfaction where it has been tried,
blooming almost perpetually, and it
grows well. Mr. Harper of Andorra,
Philadelphia, tells us it is perfectly hardy
in their grounds. From our own experi-
ence we cannot tell how hardy it is here
as we haven't given it a lair test. The
coming v\ inter, however, we will have
plants enough to be able to spare a few
to the meiC3' of the weather.

The Snowberry bush (Srmphoricar-
pus racewosus). — .\mong the many orna-
mental berried bushes in ripe fruit in our
gardens none is more distinct and striking
or more heavily laden than this old-fash-
ioned shrub. Although it will grow in
sterile ground, if you would see it in all
its glory, plant it in good soil. Mr, Tem-
ple tells us he uses it for planting on the
face of steep embankments to bind the
banks, and he knows of no plant that
does this work any better.

The Swamp Rose Mallow (Hibiscus
moscheutos). Ho k beautiful this is now
in the New Jersey meadows, bordering
the ditches, even the brackish waters. Its
large rosy flowers are very numerous and
showy; some of them have a crimson eye,
but most of them have not, and many of
ihcm are white instead of rose flowered,
and white with a crimson eye. .\Ithough
the plants arc herbaceous perennials they
have the general appearance of shrubs.
They make fine garden plants and grow
as well inland and far West as they do by
the Atlantic seaside, providing the land
is somewhat moist.

The effect of growing pond lilies.
One of our readers writes: "Just to show
you how these things go, since I started
my ponds no less than six of my friends,
have built good sized ponds and have
been delighted with their success. I feel
satisfied that if the subject of aquatics

was properly kept before the people
oftener many of them would avail them-
selves of the charms of a water garden.
While I suppose we are all more or less
inclined to be lazy, here is something that
as a lady friend of mine said requires
neither watering or weeding."

Elms. — So destructive is the clra leaf
beetle in the eastern states thatmost peo-
ple have stopped plantingthese trees, and
landscape gardeners do not include them
in their lists. There is no visible lessening
iu the ravages of the pest, and rather
than submit to the whole sumraerlong
disfigurement of their home grounds,
many people are rooting out their old elm
trees. We are doing so at Dosoris. Is
there no remedy? No, not a complete one.
We have sprayed earnestly and continu-
ously, with Paris green, Ift to 200 gal-
lons of water, but; we cannot reach the
tall trees, b sides, this Paris green business
around our homes where young children
are at pl.iy and Det animals are at liberty
is neither safe nor comfortable.

Hotbed sashes.— At Floral Park the
other day we found Mr. C. H .Mien, the
gladiolus and carnation specialist, getting
in a lot of 3x6 hotbed sashes, that is he
was getting the wooden frames from the
factory (one of the builders advertising
cypress woodwork in G-^rde-ning) and he
was to glaze them himself. The frames
are made of clear cypress, and for any
size of glass to suit. Use double thick
American glass, and in glazing, bed it in
putty, also run putty on upper side as
well. Amateurs who prefer to get their
sashes all ready glazed may also have
them done in this way, and lither from
the dealers in greenhouse materials or
from most any sash and blind factory in
any town or city.

Berried Plants.— Mr. J. T. Templethe
nurseryman of Davenport, Iowa, is a
crank on thissubject, especially asregards
hardy plants. At Dosoris the other day
when he saw Crataegus Lielandii w'lth'its
load of orange berries he sighed, for the
p'ant isn't hardy in Iowa. But v hen he
beheld the little'ffosa nidda, a thicket of
scarlet fruit, and the limbs of the b ach
plum bending under their load of purple
plums, and the long vines of Asparagus
verticillatus garlands of orange berries he
concluded his journey was not iu vain,
and he had found desiderata enough to
pay him for his trip. Helooked wistfully
upon the red drooping strawberry like
fruits of Cornus Kousa (Benthamia
Japoniai) ' but concluded the plant
wouldn't survive in his state.

Soap suds — Don't use soap suds on
your pot plants, tub plants, or set out
plants around yourhousel Well w e know
that this advice is in direct opposition to
stereotyped garden doctrine, but we can
not help it. We will not do it ourselves
nor allow it to oe done about our doors,
we lulieve in neatness, cleanness, and
sweetness. The pestiferous, malodorous,
and unsightly incrustation left in the
ground by the use of soap suds about the
house is rlisgusting. .\nd it is unnecessary,
for 111. iiiiiMni.il clement (the excuse for
usiii'j :. MiiKi contained in the soap
suds 1 1, ,iL:iiirnaiit. If th" soil is jioor
wc c.iji I iji icli It from the manure yard at
the proper time, and clean water «ill
che( r the plants as heartily as soap suds
Results tell. Try enriched ground and
clean water.

Sturtevant's Goose Flower is the
name given in Chicago to Aristolochia
gigas var. Slurtev.-iiiLii, a rare and e.x-

i8g4.

• • ' GARDENING.

eecdingly odd-looking flower now in
bloom in the Washington Park conserva-
tories there. The plant belongs to the
same genus as does the common hardv
Dutchman's pipe vine, but the blossoms
are of enormous proportions and fan-
tastic form, looking like some large bird,
and each bloom has a drooping narrow
tail some two feet long. The plant was
in bloom in one of the greenhouses at the
World's Fair last year, and i* in flower
in several places throughout the coimtry
this summer. It is a native of thetropics,
and thrives in a p^tor tu''or planted out
in a roonij' greenhouse. Better still, have
a large plant well established in a pot or
tub in spring, and plant it out of doors
in a warm, sheltered, but sunny place in
June; train it to a trellis, and give its
roots good soil, and abundant waterings
in summer. Xot onh' does this one do
well ttnder these conditions, but so too
do all of the other tropical species that
we know.

Verbena Aibleti.^ is an American
hardj- plant with showy purple flowers,
and it isn't uncommon in cultivation. An
English contemporary having read in an
.Vmerican paper that "Verbenas of recent
years * * proba'ih- from overfeeding
and propagation have been so much dis-
eased that the florists have largely dis-
carded them." .^nd advises us to get an
infusion of Auhletia blood into them.
Bless you, no. Ourverbenas are all right.
I n fact, notwithstanding the severe drouth
we are now suffering from there are fields
of verbenas in bloom on Long Island and
in Monroe Co., N. Y., that would turn a
European's hair gray with envj-. The
real fact of the matter is, we get verbenas
so good and so easily from seed, and too
in such variety that we can't be bothered
Iierpetuating them from cuttings with all
the winter room and labor that entails.
There are lots of other things in the same
way, for instance, hollyhocks, tuberous
begonias, cinerarias, pentstemons and
the like. We have no time to fuss with
named varieties and preserving them from
cuttings when we can get such good re-
sults from s ed. Make gardening easy if
you wish to make it popular.

The Vegetable Garden.

TAB VEGBTflBie GARDEN.

Our extremelv severe long-protracted
drouth is broken; it lasted up till the 8th
of this month, when we had a generous
rain, so now we can go ahead and do
some work. Read over what was written
for last (September 1) issue, most of it is
applicable yet.

The first thing we did after the rain
came was to run prong hoes and long-
toothed iron rakes between the rows of
the young crops to unfasten the surface
of the soil about them, and encourage
them to grow. This was done particu-
larly in the case of yoi ng beets, carrots
and turnips, which, if tlie weather from
now on isn't favorable, are apt to be
behind.

We had some dwarf curled Uale and
Snowball cauliflowermore than ready for
planting when the rain came, so we set
it out at once, in land emptied of pota-
toes. The kale if only half grown when
winter sets in will be big enough for use,
and as regards the cauliflower, if it will
be behind we can lift and store it in a
frame or pit about the first of November,
it will head all right before Christmas.

We are now get'inu' trrnund readv for

sowing German kale in for sprouts in
spring. Sow it thinly in rows 15 inches
apart as vo i would spinach. Never be-
fore did our Brussels sprouts look so bad
at this time of year as they do now, on
account of the dry parching weather, an-
other emphasis that early sowing and
early planting is better in the case of this
vegetable than delaying it till the time of
sowing fall or winter cabbage. If they
don't set to making sprouts pretty soon
nip the tip ends out of them, this will
cause them to shoot out on the sides.

Of spinach, get in a large sowing at
once and in good ground. W e like to sow
it in rows 12 to 15 inches apart, on land
facing the south, and where water won't
lie on it in winter. We are very much
troubled at this time of the year by the
spinach leaf miner; you will observe its
presence in the leaves by the white spots
or blisters on them. We know of no
practicable remedj-.

Lettuces are in good form now. Make
quite a large sowing of Improved Boston
Market, or some other hard headed sorts
for frame use. We sow in the open ground,
and plant into frames later on. To get
gciod lettuces use verj' rich ground.

Celery will need a good deal of atten-
tion, go over it all and pluck away the
rusty leaves, then unfasten the earth on
each side of the rows with a fork, and
draw it up to the roots of the plants
packing it firmly about the same with the
hands or "handling" it as we say. But
this is earth enough. Remember that the
cleanest and best celery is obtained by
bleaching it between boards. Ordinary
boards are laid along the rows and setup
on their edges close against the plants,
and the earth drawn up against the out-
side of the boards to keep them in place
but not so as to touch the celery. Paper
collars and all other methods of blanch-
ing celery as compared with common
boards we have found to be clumsy and
tedious, and greatly more laborious.

If your tomato plants areon theground
cut them in a little and set a frame over
them coveting it with sashes. This is to
keep the tomatoes dr\-both overhead and
at the root, and get them to keep less
watery than they would if left uncovered,
also ripen up better. .Also cover up some
cucumber plants in the same way to keep
them healthy and in good bearing for a
long time to come.

Sow some Telegraph cucumbers for use
in winter. Cool and Crisp, and other of
our short cucumbers are hardly fitted for
greenhouse or ho bed work, because they
are short lived, on the other hand the
Telegraph will live and gro a? and bear
cucumbers all winter long if the condi-
tions for such are favorable.

Mushrooms.

GOOD FOTflTOBS.

My soils is a black prarie loam. I be-
lieve it is a rule, with some exceptions of
course, that a potato that will do well in
one soil will do comparatively well on all
soil. If it does not, it is likely to prove
uncertain on anj- soil and is unworthy of
confidence. I would name two varieties
for earl}-: Early Market (Ohio style) and
Signal, (Hebron style). Formedium and
late the best we have are World's Fair
and Rural New Yorkir, the latter for
yield and the former for quality.

Clinton, Wisconsin. L. L. Olds.

The Japa.nese Climbi.ng Cucl-mher.—
C. E. A. asks if it is fit to cat. Yes, its
cucumbers arc perfectly good to eat, but
in our opinion they are not of as good
ciualitv as are Cool and Crisp. Improved
VVhiteSpine. and otlurof our old sorts.

MUSHROOMS.

Attend to the manure as recommended
page 411. Be very particular about it
not getting over wet, also about its
"burning," either evil is almost fat.il to
the crop. If the manure is too wet, that
is so moist that you can squeeze wet out
of it, in making it up it is apt to lorrn a
sodden, solid mass, and the spawn will
die in it. "Burning" is anoth r fungus
growth, and mushroom spawn won't run
in it, it v/ill die rather. In the proper
preparation of the manure lies th chief
secret of success in mushroom gro ing.
In well prepared manure, even common
quality spawn run and produce a croi) of
mushrooms, but poorly prepared manure
is repugnant to the mushroom plant and
the best of spawn will die in it. In turn-
ing the hot manure don't be distressed
because a cloud of steam (ammonia)
arises and ( scapes, don't fret because you
arelosngso much valuable mushroom
food; the least burning or over-wetting
will do the manure more harm in the eyes
of the mushrooms than the escape of all
the steam the manure can generate. We
save the ammonia partly in this way.
When we turn the manure we spread it
out a little to cool, then heap it together
again, and then throw \ light coating of
fresh loam over it. At the next turning
this coating is mixed with the manure;
we spread out the manure to cool as be-
fore, then heap it together, and coat it
with loam as before; and so on. This
gives us a fine mixture, the loam being
loaded with ammonia, and it also helps
to reduce the tendency to violent
heating.

When the manure is rotted enough and
when there is still fair heat in it, makeup
the beds on the floor of a shed, barn,
cellar, or other convenient place, about
eight or ten inches thick, shaking the
manure on lightly so as to unravel it per-
fectl}% and tamp it down solidly as you
keep fiUing it up. Then cover with some
hay or straw to absorb the condensed
moisture that otherwise would gather on
the surfaceof the bed, wettingthe manure
and rendering it uncongenial to the
spawn. We don't like to have the tem-
perature of the bed rise over 12.^". and
we wait till it declines to 100° or less,
preferably 90° before we spawn it. Get
the spawn at the seed store (an 1 don't
accept of it gratis unless you are assured
that it has been imported this fall, don't
take a cake of what was left over from
last spring I, break the cakes into pieces
about two inches square, a little more or
less, and insert these into the manure in
the bed in rows, and about nine inches
apart each way, and buried just enough
to be covered by the manure. .Make all
nice and firm again, and replaccthe straw
or hay covering for a • eck, then remove
it, and cover the bed all over « ith a coat-
ing of loam about two inches thick .\nd
over this again replace the hay or straw,
to prevent the bed getting d y ijrema-
turelv. A month or five weeks afier that
look out tor mushrooms, and if you wish
to remove the hay covering lest in mov-
ing it to get at tlic mushrooms it gets
caught ill their hcadsand roots them out.
Mushrooms big enough to pick are
seldom plucked before in six weeks' time
from planting the spawn, and often it is
seven or eight. .A. night temperature of
55° to G0°, with as little rise in the day
time as possib'c. s?ems t • suit mush-
rooms better than any o;lier

GARDEMNG.

Sept. js,

MUSHROOMS IN FLORIDA.

I. W. B.. Volusia Co.. Fla., asks;

1. Please tell me whether or not the
mushrooms (when ready to eat) would
bear transportation by express to the
north if grown in F.orida duringthe win-
ter months?

2. Can they be packed so as to arrive
in shapely condition for market?

3. Is the market a steady one?

■4. Would it be a paying business to
can them, if they would not bear trans-
portation? I shall wish a copy of your
book later on, probably, if I can receive
sufficient reason to believe there is any
money in growing them, but I have no
surplus cash to invest in anything that is
not sure of a reasonable market for the
■outlay. Any information would be most
acceptable. '

1. As now packed and shipped wc
should say no.

2. Toa niarketwithin a day's journey,
yes, perf ctly; to a market of two days'
or over journey, doubtful.

3. For good mushrooms at a reason-
able price, it is. But it is with mush-
rooms as it is with forced fruit, flowers or
vegetables, in order to be able to cut an\
■figure in the market you must be in -i
position to furnish a continuous supph
•of good quality. Dribbles are not satis-
factory.

i. that depends upon three things,
namely"; quantity, qualitj- of mushrooms
and canning, and how cheaply they can
be put up. They are being canned in
California.

New. Rare and Beautiful Plants

STROBILANTHES DYERIANUS. This is mosl
valuibl^ noi?eUy that has been introduced
for years. For bedding issuperiorto the finest
coleus; withstands hot sun and dry weather
better.

A large collection of rare hothouse and green-
house plants, carefully in"own, at low rates.

ORCHIDS-A ver>- extensive stock; East Indian,
Mexican, Central and South American Sic.

RARE AND BEAUTIFUL EVERGREENS,

ORNAMENTAL TREES, SHRUBS, &c.

P>eONIES-A large collection ol the finest in ail-
tivation. Hardy Perennials, Phloxes, Japan-
ese Iris. Roses, Clematis, etc. New and Stand-
ard Fruits, etc.

«S-Catalogues on application.

JOHN SAUL, Washington, P. C.

Fine Flowers

are raised from tine Bulbs and good
relijble Seed. We furnish these. Send
lor our Fa/l Bulh Catalogue. Address

August Rolker «& Sons,

New York, i^",*,','!';' .YVtiT.n*'' *^'"

BLOOMINOTON Phoenix) NURSERY.

6oo Acres. Thii

Greenhouses.

Trees# Plants

Catalogrue mailed *ree. Establlahed lHiV2.

PHOENIX NURSERY COMPANY,

(Sue. to Sidney Tuttle & Co.) Ulooiulngtun, III.
r> I T I D Q 1990 Varieties of CactL

500 soru of rare BULBS.
2 Cacti, $1. Sforsoi

/^ A >^T<I 12 Cacti, $1. SforSOcts.
^^^ [ I ISO Blooming Bulbs, $1.

RARE PLANTS Book on CactU 16 Pages' 10 els
A. BLANC &C0.3i6Xiuh SI PHILADELPHIA

STANDARD PEARS,
JAPAN PLIMS,

.5?5i€a?^^5^-^

A ROSE HEDGE

Is a most beautiful object, and now is the time to plant it, as probably never again will the
same quality of plants be offered at so low a figure.

The above cut shows a block of Madame Plantier Roses that are three years old.
They have been root pruned and sheared (the picture was taken during the process of
shearing), and will make a fine show as soon as transplanted. Madame Plantier is espe-
cially adapted to hedges, as it is the hardiest of roses, gives a most abundant crop of
beau'iful white flowers, and stands pruning as well as a California Privet.

Price, boxed and delivered at any freight house or Express office in
Rochester, $9.00 per 100; $75.00 per 1000.

N. B. — The plants should be set twelve to fifteen inches apart to produce the quickest
results, though if set eighteen inches apart they will fill up any gaps in the course of a
vear or two.

W. S. LITTLE

Commercial Nurseries. .^

& CO.,

ROCHESTER, N. V.

Before Buying Holland Bulbs

Fall Catalogu

r IS'.M. It fives carefully condensed
lyacinths. Tulips, Crocus, Narcissus, O.xalis, I.xias,
nd Specialties. Three unique features in our Fall

Send a postal card for
lists of the best varieties o
Lilies, etc. Also Noveltie
Catalogue are r
A Chart showing depth and distance apart to plan
281^° An idea imported from Holland.
3ft-3r Three Persian Iris Free with each order.

Write for a copy to-day, SENT FREE TO ALL.

I t«r

w.

ATLEE BURPEE & CO.,

PHILADELPHIA,

PA.

WHITING NURSI ki

We Grow^o'Tw/fiTono? Roses Annually

: .^!:^ll.vollM I tii:iii.-:i-l:irL-. ly. Are headquarters for thecholcest

„A* Fruit and Ornamental Trees, Shrubs, Vines, Roses, Plants,

nill D^ Wo finer assortment of Large or Small Fruits, ?Jirubs or

OwmDOi Hoses in America. \Vith more acres of Ornamentals than

^C^.' H^^^^BBBBB any other Nursery can show. Planters as well as Nur-

icn. l-]i>ri^ts and ncaU-rs .-iru coniially invited to call and ins|)ect our

F.ILL. PKE4Ii: LIST AM) BILB CATALOIil K FKKE.

41st YEAR. 1,000 ACRES. 29 GREENHOUSES.

STORRS & HARRISON CO., Box 11 Palnesville, Ohio.

.yi> '

i894.

' GARDENING.

Ediso n Phonograph

A MeclKinical Aman-
uensis in your
oftice.
A Matchless Enter-
tainer in your
home.

For particulars address
PHONOGRAPH CO.,
Jadcson), Chicago.

ted wltti tlie publlcn-
D tlie ptionojfraph and
IranBcrlbed from same on ttie typewriter, Ttie advan-
ta^es of the ptionopraph over atenofjraphy are very

and greater opee"
GA)

The gahdexi:

Popular
Seeds and Bulbs
tor Fall PlantiuQ."

It descritjes and gives

return tlie g r

satisfaction for ttie least
„ expenditure of time and

means. Beautiful colored plate of Tulips. If you
have hitherto failed with Bulbs, either In the window
garden or yard, do not neglect securing the Informa-

R. BENEDICT

ELI.ENVI1.LE, Ulster Co., N. V.

nrst-i-iass in every respect.
le market. In price down. A ml.ved
i plants for ^<c ; lUOO for J5.50. with

plain Instruction, gained from long experle ce.

how very easliy pansles are wintered and have

DANIEL k'. HERR, Box 4(1S, Lancaster, Pa.

Onn C\C\C\ 0"e Year Peach
dUUjUUU Trees, Apples, As=
paragusand Strawberry Plants.

C.VT.lLOCfrE .Tl-ST OIT. KUKK.

BERLIN NURSERIES, Berlin, Md.

Mention Gardening.

PLANT INTELLIGENTLY,

And with Profit and Satisfaction.

Consult our Catalogues, and Plans and Suggestions for Planting. Expert advice
often saves hundreds-of dollars in landscape work, and it's yours lor the asking.
We dcxole the greater part of 250 acres to all that is raie and unique, in

TREES, EVERGREENS, ROSES, SHRUBS.

Rhododendrons, Azaleas, and Hardy Herbaceous "'"-^" ^^

And our Catalogues offer many hardy and valuable plants rot to be found in
other collections. We oft'er Holland Bulbs of superior quality, at lowest prices.

Note our offers of the famous new Roses, Crimson Rambler and Rosa Dawsonii.

THE SHADY HILL NURSERY CO.,

^iB^ CAMBRIDGE, MASS.

PANSY SEED

ved from

e. free-blooming plants for filling:
etc. early in the spring;.

ss-t large-fiowered typt s. and when
colors can be depe^-ded upon as being true to name, color and description.

icket ('f any of the following choice varieties. Free by mail for LSc, or the vs hole
'r 5 packets, piirohaper's choice, for 60c. Each packet will contain sufficient seed
rifiit ^^cveml hundred plants. Cultural directions with each packet. Our beautl-

*ITCHER & MANDA, Short Hills, N. J.

HOLLAND BULBS

'''''c^;',;Li;;«V'in;'i::™ Ellwanger &, Barry,

PLANT IN FALL FOR EARLY SPRING FLOWERING.

KO( lli;>TKl

14

CARDENJNG.

Sept 15,

Publisher's Department.

TWO DOLLftRS fl YEAR.

With this number, the first of VoUmic
3, the subscription price of Gardening is
increased to $2.00 a year We beUeve all
our readers will agree with us thai this
is still a moderate price for such a high
class journal as Gardening, and that
after publishing the paper for two j-ears
at a merely nominal price to secure for it
at once the wide circulation to which its
merit en' itled it, we are now warranted
in increasing the price to a figure that
will allow a small profit to the publishers.

We will still allow a special rate where
a subscriber sends in a new name with
his own. making the price $3.00 for the
two, so that where ordered in combina-
tion in this way the price for each will be
onlv $1.50. Cliibs of more than two may
be f rnied on the same basis, namely
$1.50 for each yearly subscription Read-
ers who feel that Gardening has be( n
worth to them "many times the subscrip-
tion price," as a large number have
written us, can do us no greater favor
than to get up a club among their friends
interested m gardening, and at the same
time f ecure a good i ash return for their
trouble.

I HAVE READ YOUR ARTICLES for many

years,- alfl-ays

ith

ruction and

pleasure and have taken Gardening from
its birth. I lik; a man who isn't afraid
to "call a sp^de a spade" and is f arless
enough to speak the truth as he sees it
letithitwhereitmay. I hope youi hont-t
and plain speaking journal has pro\ed t
success with you It ought, were upright
dealing and honest expression of opinion
at the premium they should be m 0111
conimunitv. W. H C

West Roxbui-v, Mass.

Superb Pansies.

My "K.-\INBOW MIXTURE" is a combiii

and cannot fail to give satisfaction Stockj
young plants $1.00 per 100, free by mail

GEORGE CREIGHTON,

. . . Poughkeepsie, N. Y.

FOR SALE. ia

50,000 Rhubarb Roots. 400,000 Ban's

Mammoth Palmetto and Conovei's

Colossal Asparagus Roots, 1, 2 & 3 years

old. Vegetable plants in season.

Also a select stock of small seeds. Prices to suit

the times. Send for free catalogue. Mention this

paper. E B MARTER. Jr.. box .517. Burlington. N.J.

mwm

S'v:;^^;

K.Mll. IiAl.l.l.NliK

CRIMSON CLOVER.

The Great Soil Renovator.

BEST CROP FOR HAY, PASTURE, SILAGE AND
GREEN MANURING.

\\ herever this plant will thrive it is sure to revolutionize
methods of farming and to bring under profitable cult-
ure lands which are now too poor for tillage.

v\ e have just published an important circular describing the
habits, growth and uses of Crimson Clover; also other
Clover and Grass Seeds for Fall planting; valuable new
varieties of Winter Wheat, etc. Write for a copy to-
day. Sent free to all.

W. ATLEE BURPEE & CO.,

PHILADELPHIA, PA.

EAGLE BRAND THE BEST.

NO

TAR ROOFING

NO TAR.

It is superior to any other roofing, and unequaled for House, Barn, Factory, or out-
buildings; it costs half the price of shingles, tin, or iron; it is ready for use and easily ap-
plied by anyone; it is the best rooting in the market, in durability, to all others.

Send for estimate, and state size of roof.

RUBBER PAINT.

Tlie best krown paint in the world fur tin, iron or shingle roofs, fences, siJesof barns
or out-buildings. It costs only 60 cents per gallon in barrel lots, or S4.50 for a 5-g?.llon
tub. Color, dark red. It will stop leaks in tin or iron roofs that will last for years. It
is guaranteed not to peel, crack, scale, nor wash off, and is fire-proof against sparks.
TRY IT.

EXCELSIOR PAINT & ROOFING CO.

155 Ouane Street, NEW YORK, N. Y.

You will benefit Gardening by men-
tioning it every time you write an
advertiser in these columns.

SEND 35c. IN .STAIMI'S 1

iSg4.

GARDENING.

15

(jRnTNHOUSE #

HEATERS,

Wrought Iron Boilers Only.

THE FLAT TOP TYPE.

Devine Boiler Works,

Ot-HICi; :

69 Dearborn St., CHICA(iO, U. S. A.

s

TANDARD

Ventilating Machinery

__ *^ RECEIVED

^hV" all

C iK?^ BEST
!v ^ NX AWAKDS
^ \ ^^ LAST

\ ^ VEAKS.

\\ \

J 1 1 Cata,„«ue^,

v.

iiirr.vnK,

-t. lyouls Convention.

YOITNGSTOWN, OHIO.

^'> DREER'S

GARDEN SEEDS

Plants Bulbsand Requisites

Henry A. Dreer,

14 Chc-itnut St. Phila.

HITCHINGS & CO.

Fslnl.lisheil fiO Y<

Horticultural Architects and Builders

And Laig.Hl MaiiufiKtureiH ol

(iREENHOUSE HEATING AND VENTILATINO APPARATUS

W

ConserNatorits OrLciiliouscs I'lli.i Mouses Lie ci eeted complete ■with our

Patent Iron Frame Construction. Plans and Estimates of cost

and Illustrated Catalogues sent on application.

■ ■ — 233 Mercer Street, NEW YORK.

H. n. HOOKER COnPANY,

. . 57 and 59 West Randolph Street, CHICAGO,

GLASS FOR GREENHOUSES.^^,^

Plate, Window and Art Glass, Paints, Oils, Etc.

Announcement to Florists..

The Sykacuse Pc
Breltschwerth. The
twlng demand for our goods. We have apcordlngiy

1 In further improve

Introduce to the trade

3nt of William DopBel

conducted as heretofore, except on a larger scale to

-pcordlDBly enlarged our plant and capacity and with

rgest order on short notice. Our latest Improved

Die flower pots In the market, and assuring you of

lance of your patronage In the belief

satisfactory to all.

SYRACUSE POTTERY CO., Office 403 N. Salina St., SYRACUSE, N. Y.

WATER

For Your
GREEN HOUSE,
ROSE HOUSE,
NURSERY,

Conservatory, Lawn,

Ho use, Garden, Stock

oranyotherourpose. UflT-AIR

Send for Illustrated Catalogue IIUI HIH

De LAMATER-RIDER and PUMPING
DeLAMATER-ERICSSON -..p..,-
PUMPINC ENGlNE.
■ ENGINE.

will pump water from shallow k
Htreama nr anyk.ud Of well. They w
can be arranged for anv kind of f upl. £

Capacity l.bOO to SO.OuO gallons
of wat» r a day. according to size.

The De Lamater Iron Works,

87 South Fifth Ave..
NEW YORK. N. Y.

When writing mention Gai

EMERSON

I FA7EHI BINDER

Standard Flower Pots.

lOperce-t oil fr>r cash with order. Special dls-
cuuntii 1 t tvL-.-itrfiers. We carry a large stock on
hand ul gijini struni^' pots.
PRICE LIST OF STANDARD POTS, any number:
I§-4-lnch ixits. perlOOO 5 S. W Ij-lnch pots, per 1000K2.0a

2M •■ " .■i.w 3 •■ • SU.'OO

3H •• •• 4 to '.i " " T5.U0

'\ '■ " ;> 00 U) ■■ per 100 10.00

« HILFINGER BROS. POTTERY,

.... FORT EDWARD, N. Y.

Kolker & Sons. 13f; & i:i8 W.2«h St., New Tork

ORCHIDS . #

12 Best free growing and profuse flow-
ering Orchids for amateurs, for $10.00.
Wn. MATHEWS, Utica, N. Y.

Write for a Copy of
the "Illustrator,"

^g^ A montlily journal issued by
^*^ the largest engraving house
^^ in the United States. . .

J. MANZ & CO.

183, 185. 187 rionroe Street,

. . CHICAGO.

Engraving by all Processes..

i6

• GARDENING.

Seft. 75,

Some Low Prices.

SEPTEMBER DELIVERY.

Qesneriana Tulips (true)— The tallest, largest flowered
and most striking of all Tulips for
bedding. Brilliant scarlet with black
center. 25 cts. per dozen; ^1.25 per
100; $11.00 per 1000.

Bizarre Tulips— Choicest mixed 25 cts. per dozen; $1.25
per 100; $10.00 per 1000.

Bybloemen Tulips— Choicest mixed 30 cts. per dozen;
$2.00 per 100; $15.00 per 1000.

The Bizarres and Bybloemens are the tulips of the farrous tu-
lip mania of Europe, wiien tulips sold as hi^h as Jl.ono each, and
when entiie communities were involved in the speculation. They
are very interesting and beautiful.

Narcissus Bicolor Horsfieldi — The finest of all daffo-
dils and one of the most beautiful
hardy flowers grown. These prices
are less than wholesale; $1 25 per
dozen; $7.00 per 100.
50 of any of the above at 100 price, 500 at 1000 price.

OCTOBER DELIVERY.

I'erUo/..

Per lOO

Auratum Li

lies, 7 to 9 i-ches

S .75

S 5.00

"

" 9toll •• -

1.25

7.50

"

" 11 to 13 "

-

1.75

11.00

"

" monstf rs

-

2.50

15 00

Rubrum

7 to 9 inches

1.25

8.00

•'

" 9 to 11 " -

1.60

10.00

monsters

2.00

12.00

Album

7 to 9 inches

1.75

11.00

•• 9 to 11 "

.

2.25

14.00

Superbum

large flowering

bulbs

- .80

5.00

extra selected

" -

1.25

8.00

Grayi

" rare native variety

4.50

30.00

The Japanese Lilies are easily among the most beau-
tiful flowers grown. They are perfectly hardy, and at the
above extreinely low prices large groups should be planted
in every garden. The Superbum is a native lily of great
beauty, vigor and hardiness. In deep rich soil it will grow
8 feet high and often have 20 to 3o flowers on a stalk.
Fifty of any variety of Lily supplied at hundred price.

DESCRIPTIVE PRICE LIST SENT ON APPLICATION.

J. WILKINSON ELLIOTT,

Landscape Architect, Horticultural Buyers' Agent,
PITTSBURGH, PA.

HORSFORD'S
Hardy Plants

ARE FROST PROOF

because they are grown in Vermont. They all
live, if given half a chance, because they have
plenty of

F. H. HORSFORD, Charlotte, Vt.

ORNAHENTAL TREES
and SHRUBS . . .

Specimen Plants for Lawns and Cem-
eteries. Send for Catalogue.
SAHUEL C. MOON,

• • Morrisville, Bucks Co., Pa.

CANNAS.

Th*" (iiirden, Cointe II. <le Clioineii

CcolVrov .><f . Illlaire. One of each fur Si.U

PROBST BROS. FLORAL CO.,

1017 Broadway, KANSAS CITY, MO.
When writing mention Gardening.

THE WATER GARDENS.

Troi>i<

fS.IiOeHch.
rJ.WU'ucli.

i\Hter LlUe8 In »ll colon*.

inzlbareninlH (tnio Royal purpio lly).

;turlt_'Vfinil.f-^..'iOeach. N. Columbiana!
"t (TltiiHoii var.i. KJ.OOeach. Laydekerl
ir.i.-.1 R medal at the Worlds Fair, J2 60
irii. nL>w. an unsurpaHsedand ixioBtde-
Mutiiiriii var.lo each. Other novelties
WM. THICKER & CO.. Clifton. N. J.
.Mention GardenlnK-

LORD & BURNHAM CO.,
Horticultural Architects ^ Builders,

STEAM AND HOT WATER HEATING ENGINEERS.

ail estixnatra furnished on application

ijBg[|snrarmrrf/im' «

HitlBEjTiliHI

•SEND FOUR CENTS POSTAGE FOR ILLLSTRATEI) CATALOGUE ■

LORD & BURNHAM CO.,

NINO. Irvington=on=Hudson, N. Y.

JOHN G. MONINGER GO.

Cypress write

Qreen= House 'H^^^
2jY Construction
so"? Material.

Hawthorne Ave., ChicagO, 111.

When you write to any of the advertis-
ers in this paper please say that you saw
the advertisement in G.4RDEN1NG.

FLOWER POTS.

. STANDARD •

You will make a mistake if you place your
orders for flower pots this Fall without
first receiving our estimates for same.
Our plant is now the Largest In the World.
Our stock unlimited. Our goods equaled
by none. . . .

A. H. HEWS & CO.,

North Cambridge, Mass.

Please mention Gardening when writ-
ing to advertisers.

Vnl III »Z.UUAYEAR.

vol. III. 24 Numbers.

CHICAGO, OCTOBER i, 1894.

.. G. BAKER'S GARDEN POND. FINEV

Aquatics.

fl LITTLE POND IN lOWfl.

In a former article I spoke of the forma-
tion of a small pond on our place. It is
filled from an artesian well and is quite
picturesque, as well as valuable in dry
.seasons. The flow from the well was
thirty-six gallons a minute wh n first
bored. It has varied little since, but dur-
ing this dry summer the water has evap-
orated wonderfully. We have had to use
the water constantly for the yard and
garden. This use and the evaporation
have reduced the pond from five to three
feet in its greatest depth. But this has
never happened before. The water is im-
pregnated with iron that discolors ob-
jects near the flow. The bottom of the
pond is black mud. I think the iron in the
water assists in decomposing rapidly the
leaves and all trash that blows into the
pond, and helps to form the slimy black
muck in the bottom.

White pond lilies do splendidly. I never
saw larger blooms I have tried the pink
and yellow. They lived two years and
then were either winter-killed or eaten by
the musk rats. That Httle pest has made
us quite a bit of trouble; sometimes eat-
ing the roots of the v/hite lilies and some-
times killing the fish.

A few years ago a nurseryman sent me
a plant that is making us a great deal of
trouble. If not disturbed I believe that
in two years it would take the pond. I
have forgotten the name. It has a single
yellow flower the size of a silver dollar,
the edges of the six petals slightly fringed.
The leaf is shaped and grows on the
water like the water lily leaf, from one to
three inches in diameter, the edges repand
and the old leaves spotted. It is rather
pretty but a nuisance and should never
be sent out. The musk-rats don't care
for it.

The banks of the small island and half
the pond are perpendicular. On the other
half of the pond the bank is gently sloping.
Clover grows everywhere to the water's
edge. In the coldest weather the water

freezes from twelve to fifteen inches. There
is a large space, where the water enters
the pond between the island and the west
bank that never freezes. The temperature
of the water at the well is 50°. The
main supply of water is carried to the
pond by an underground pipe. At the
same place it receives a flow from a rub-
ber hose connected with the well. This
gives more water and is handy in water-
ing the yard. We shall be glad to have
you give us 3'our ideas about planting
the pond and name the kinds of aquatic
plants we could use.

So far the drouth has not affected our
trees or shrubs. Weir's cut leaved maple,
the birches, catalpas, wild olives, Euro-
pean and American mountain ash, blue
spruce, golden arbor-vita;, blue fir, white
pine, and all common pines stand our
climate without killing back. Our win-
ters are quite severe. Sometimes during
the season the thermometer is 25° below
zero. But with us the spring does the
most damage; the days of hot sunshine
and freezing weather alternating.

Russian tamarix, Syringa Japonica,

iS

GARDENING.

Oct. /,

Exocborda grandiHora, Spirxa Van
Houttei, variegated elder, Prunus triloba,
lowering almond, American snowballs,
lilacs, purple fringe — this is covered with
its quaint purple flowers every sumrner—
and Hydrangea grandiHora never winter
kill with us, and most of them bloom
freely. Hydrangea never winter kills,
even the tips, and never fails to give abund-
ance of bloom. I have two large clumps
that I trim everj' spring closely. Now
they are five feet high and covered with
lovely heads of cream white blooms. On
one there were this season over a hundred
])erfect bunches of blossoms. Coming so
late when flowers are not so plentiful I do
not see whv they are not morecommonly
cultivated. Push a stout slip in the
ground and if enough moisture is given
it, it will root as easily as a currant.

Japan quince, rose "weigelia and caly-
canthus winter kill. But I am trying
your method of covering with boxes filled
with leaves and hope to have better suc-
cess after this.

The barberries and yellow flowering
currant, and Tartarian honeysuckle are
as hardy as oaks.

We have not a great variety of vines,
that I have succeeded in growing, they
include wistaria. Jackman's clematis,
honeysuckle, Prairie Queen and one mul-
tiflora rose. We can grow the old Belgian
honeysuckle by laying it down and cover-
ing it thickly in "winter. Its fragrant
fiowers^ay for all trouble. Anotheryear
1 shall try Clematis paniculata. We gen-
erally have in the second week in Septem-
ber a frost that injures flo wees. Pieonias
are very hardy and free bloomers. Do
piEonias mix? [They do not. But the her-
baceous varieties behave very strangel3'
both as regards theircolors and doubling
(see Ed. note, page 362, July 15). The
Chinese or late flowering herbaceous sorts
are the most inconstant. Why, we have
had seedlings bloom well for a year or
two giving single or semi-double flowers,
and the third season have full double
blossoms.— Ei).] I have the loveliest sin-
gle red pjEonia. The first year it bloomed
it was perfect. Its great mass of long
yellow stamens and glowing red petals
made it a gorgeous flower. The next year
it was nearly double, the long stamens
nearly covered and the color an ugly red.

Several years ago I tried garden ane-
mones but they winter killed. Had I
covered them as you advised I would
have saved them perhaps. I am trying
two clumps of Vick's whirlwind anemone
received this spring. Am waiting anx-
iously to see how they bloom and endure
our winters. Mrs. M. G. B.\ker.

I'inew ood, Iowa.

This very jjretty j^iece of water seems
well adapted to thecultivationof ai|uatic
])lants; as the common water lilies grow
so well it shows that the soil is in good
condition for all other hardy varieties,
and no special preparation is necessary.
Lists of the best varieties with instruc-
tions about planting have been given
in recent numbers of Gardening. (See
pages 295, 393 and 405.) The tender
varieties of Nympbxas would also do
well in this pond. The best of thtm are
.V. Zanzibarensis and its varieties azurca
and rosea, scutifolia, dentata, gracilis,
stellata and Devonensis. These would do
fairly well [)lanted in the soil of the pond
in water not moie than a foot or fifteen
inches deep, but they would do better
planted in boxes three or four feet square
and a foot deep, filled with a compost
made of c(|ual parts of old thoroughly
decayed barn manure and garden soil.
They should be sunk deep enough to

cover the crowns of the plants with
twelve to eighteen inches of water, and
not more than eight or ten feet of each
other if there is plenty of room. The
hardy nymph^as should be planted in
irregular patches near the margin of the
pond in the bayou and nooks or wherever
it seems most appropriate, leaving plenty
of open water in the middle and in places
on the margin for boating. Plant some
Nelumbiutnsm the space between the little
island and the main land. The hardiest
and best variety is the deep pink N. spe-
ciosum roseum. The pure white variety
album grandiHorum and the yellow
native American species luteum are also
good. A few roots of these will soon
spread over considerable space and all the
care they need will be to keep them
within bounds by removing the runners
after they have spread as much as desired.

Build a rustic bridge from the main
land to the little island, remove the tree
on this and build a small round or octag-
onal rustic summer house on it, to be
covered with Ipomoea setosa, I. grandi-
Hora or some other rapid growing vines.
Grade down the banks of the island
enough to make a gentle slopeto theedge
of the water and plant some caladiums,
cannas and Egyptian paper plants
{Papyrus antiquorum ) . The latter is one
of the finest plants I know of for a water
garden and flourishes equally well in
shallow water and on dry ground. Plant
some of the tender Nymphieas on the
water side of the island, and around the
edge of the pond in appropriate places in
the shallow water plant Papyrus, the
variegated sweet flag (Acorus Japonica
variegatus), Scirpus zebrina, Sagittaria
Japonica ft. pi., Pontederia cordata, Lim-
nantbemum /nrf/cum the water poppy, the
common water hyacinth and the blue
species, E. azurea. No more suitable
place can be found for the cultivation of
the magnificent Japanese and other irises
than the margin of a water garden. On
the lawn in suitable places around the
pond plant beds of semi-tropical and
other ornamental plants sxich as musas,
canna, caladiums, castor beans, Arundo
donax, Eulalia gracillima univittata, E.
Japonica variegata and E. Jap. zebrina,
Erianthus Ravenwe, etc.

The plant referred to as such a nuisance
is probably the European Limnanthe-
mum nympha:oides and ought never to
be planted in a pond,, as it is impossible
to get rid ol it when once established. I
have had no trouble with musk rats my-
self, but they are very partial to the root
oi Nympliseas and nelumbiums and a few
of them will do a great amount of mis-
chief in the course of a winter. The only
way I know of to get rid of them is to
trap or shoot them, and if there are no
other ponds or streams in the vicinity it
ought not to be a difficult matter to ex-
terminate them. Perhaps a bounty
ofl'ered to the boys of the neighborhood
for every rat killed might help matters a
good deal. L. W. Goodelt,.

Pansy Park, Mass.

Trees and Shrubs.

FLflNTlNO EVERGREEN TREES AND SHRUBS
IN FALL.

Now is a capital time to plant evergreen
coniferous trees, also rhododendrons,
kalmias, andromedas, amocna azaleas,
tree box, hardy heaths, and other plants
of the kind that keep good balls of earth
with lots of fibres to their roots. They
should be well soaked before they are jni't
into the holes, and before finishing filling

in the dirt about them give a reasonably
good watering. Do not water on the sur-
face of the ground as it crusts the earth,
and prevents a free penetration of rain
and air. Don't plant coniferous trees as
pines, firs, spruces, or arbor vitaes more
than one or two inches deeper than they
were before; of course the size of the plant
has a good deal to do with this, big trees
can bear a little more depth than small
ones.

Don't overwater conifers. Thousands
of young plants are killed eveiy year by
constant watering, it rots the roots and
death ensues. Rhododendrons, azaleas,
and the like can stand more water than
conifers, and it is very important in their
case to have the ball of roots thoroughly
soaked before being planted. For the
winter mulch about the plants with
leaves or long manure, we generally use
salt meadow hay, but do not apply it till
the ground is frozen about the plants.
The great advantage of planting now is
that the hot weather is practically past,
the nights are long and cool, there is a
dew to recuperate the plants from the
fatigue of the day, and the ground is
wann enough to induce good root action.
The result is that next spring the plants
are apt to start off into growth more as
if they had been established than recently
planted specimens. J. R. Trumpy.

Kissena, L. I., September 10.

PRUNING LILACS.

Please state the better time and man-
ner of pruning lilacs? I planted some
choice young bushes a year ago, but
neither in my horticultural books or pa-
pers do I find directions for pnining, and
I have the impression that it must be
done with care. J. J. D.

Dutchess Co., N. Y.

The first thing to do is to make the
lilac into a shapely shrub, and this may
have to be done at a considerable sacri-
fice of good wood, even flowering wood,
but no matter, begin aright. This may
be done any time between October and
the end of April. In pruning, cut out the
old gnarled wood, and retain the clean
barked, healthy shoots, but cut anything,
big or little, back hard enough to give
the plant a shapely foundation. Now,at-
tendtotheyoungwood. About the end of
May, when the young shoots are pretty
well developed, and before the terminal
eye plumps up solid, cut the longer ones
back halfway if need be to preserve the
equilibrium of the bush, they will branch
again; and remove root sprouts and stem
sap shoots. Don't do any late summer
pruning; whatever is done should be done
early enough to give the young shoots
an opportunity to ripen up thoroughly
in summer. Pruning, however, may not
induce early blooming, for common as
the lilacs are, we have few shrubs more
exasperating as regards their starting to
bloom.

TRANSPLANTING DECIDUOUS TREES AND
SHRUBS.

From the end of September and early in
October, most fibrous rooted trees and
shrubs can be transplanted with excellent
success. In the line of trees I may men-
tion maples in general, horse chestnuts in
variety, catalpas, and poplars; and in the
way of shrubs clethras, euonymus, deut-
zia, mock orange or syringa, forsythia,
hibiscus, hydrangea, hypericum, spirzeas,
weigelia. Buttrees and shrubs thathave
long or naked roots or are growing late
should be planted after the first black
frost. In the way of trees I mav mention

GARDENING.

19

birch, sweet chestnut, oak, beech, horn-
beam, hawthorn, flowering dogwood,
laburnum and sweet gum; shrubs include
such as bladder senna, Japanese quince,
elaeagnus, exochorda, Siberian pea tree
and benthamia.

It is essential that the leaves should be
off, if not naturally, they should be
stripped or cut off by hand. If left in they
soon wither and the bark shrivels, and in
conseriuence the tree becomes much ener-
vated. Before setting the trees in the
holes the roots should be dipped into a
mud puddle, and in planting water them
in the holes as recommended above for
evergreens. A winter mulching as recom-
mended for the evergreens is also of much
benefit to deciduous trees and shrubs.

Magnolias, tuHp trees, deciduous
cypress and some others should be planted
in spring just as growth begins to start.

place, moderately moist soil and not re-
tentive; manuring is unnecessary. Azalea
atncena should grow well under the same
circumstances, but as it is a smaller plant
don't inter-plant it with mollis, rather
use it as a border plant. We are not sure
though that they, awcena in particular,
are hardy with you, under favorable cir-
cumstances mollis probably is.

..===«,

PLAN FOR A SMALL PARK

say after the middle of April. Locality
will determine the proper time. It will be
well to shorten the branches of the trees
and shrubs, after they start, to unload
their too heavy heads.'

Transplanti.ng Fruit Trees and
Bushes in Fall.— First plant currants,
gooseberries, and raspberries, then apples,
cherries and plums, pears come last. Of
course all fruit trees can be planted in fall
and if the work is done in season, they
show a marked gain over those planted
in spring.

As soon as the hot weather begins in
spring or early summer, stir up the ground
around the trees and keep it open and
cleau, and if practicable mulch about the
trees with long manure or grass to pre-
vent the ground drying too much. Should
hot, dry weather set in it would be well
to uncover immediately about the trees
and give a good soaking of water, then
cover over with drj- soil and replace the
mulch. J. R. Tkumi'V.

Kissena, L. I., September S.

Magnolia parviSora likes good soil —
not fatted with manure— that has been
deeply unfastened, and a warm sheltered
place, but not a hot sunnj' exposure.

Landscape Gardening.

flZflUEflS-MflONOLIfl.

B. W.,Terre Haute, Indiana, asks about
Azalea mollis and A. amasna, and Mag-
nolia parriHora and M. Soulangeana.

Azalea mollis is a large flowered decidu-
ous shrub from China and now much
esteemed in gardens here. It grows from
two to six feet high, and blooms a little
before the leaves come out, continuing till
the leaves appear. The smallest plants
bear flowers. In color the blossoms are
yellow, almost white, flame, and inter-
mediate shades. Like most of its family
it likes a sheltered and not over sunnv

Shruhs in bloom now are very few. .\
good many blossoms linger on Hydrangea
paniculata grandiSora, and the late-
blooming typical form is in good bloom.
A few althaea blossoms still stick to the
bushes. Lespedeza Seiholdii (Desmodium
pendulitiorum) and the white flowered
Japonicum are in good bloom and quite
conspicuous. Matrimony vine, common
and Chinese, is in good bloom and fruit-
ing too. The white flpwered Cleroden-
dron tricbotomam and the red C. Bunge-
anum are in flower, the latter not at best
yet. European tree ivy was in fine flower
up till now; although the flower heads
are yellowish green they are so many and
(prominent as to be quite attractive. A
little south of here the crape myrtle is
lingering in the garden, and abelia and
leycesteria are still in bloom. But now is
the season of ornamental fruit.

Rhododendron— China Pinks.— (!. J.
I'., Salt Lake City, Utah, asks:

1 . What time' would it be best to
transplant a rhododendron?

2. llo China pinks from seed this fall
do well wintered in a cold frame?

1. If you shelter it around vv-ith brush
or boards you can transplant it at once;
but it may be safer to wait till spring.

2. Yes, very well. Plant them thickly,
and then transplant them outside in
spring.

PLAN FOR fl SMALL PARK.

In some cities and many small towns
there are small pieces of waste ground
which serve no better purpose than a
depository for rubbish, which might be
utilized for public gardens at a compara-
tively small expense. Such gardens would
be a source of great pleasure to all and
increase the desirableness of the surround-
ing property so as to proveagood invest-
ment when considered only from the prac-
tical standpoint of dollars and cents. Such
sma'l parks might be provided for by a
general tax, by the subscriptions of the
contiguous property owners or by the
donation of some wealthy and liberal
citizen as was done for the beautifying of
the little park at Hazleton, Pa., the plan
for which is shown with this article.

The site for this park was an irregular
piece of ground on which the soldiers'
monument stood and it occurred to Mr.
A. S. Van Winckle that it might be made
into a beautiful little garden instead of
remaining barren waste, so he requested
me to make a plan for its improvement.
The plan which I made and which has
since been very effectively carried out I
think pretty well explains itself. Bj' mass-
ing shrubs and small growing trees
around the boundary the triangular shape
of the ground is in a measure concealed
and an appearance of spaciousness given
to the garden. The walks make a place
for strolling, give entrance from ever>-

GARDENING.

Oct. /,

side, and fumish appropriate locations
for flower beds which are usually and

In such a plan as this it is ver\- impor-
tant that the hues of the walk be made
and kept true for if the comers are not
true and the grass not kept sharply edged
up the effect is very unpleasing.

Hazleton being in a mining country the
fear was expressed that the park would
suffer from the depredations of the rougher
element, such is not the case however,
the park has attracted the attention and
admiration of all, but nothing has been
damaged, not even a flower pulled.

J. Wilkinson Elliott.

Pittsburg, Pa.

EXI'L.\N.\TION OF PL.\N.

1. Monument.

2. Mountain laurel {Kalmia Uitifolin).

3. Japanese maples.

4. Magnolia conspicua.

5. Weeping Japanese cherry (Primus
pendula).

6. Weeping dogwood.

7. Magnolia Soulaugeana.

8. Cut leaved birch.

9. Chinese arbor vitie (Biota Orient-
alis).

10. Flower beds. The round one is
filled with Japanese eulalia grasses, the
three beds next the walk with geraniums,
and the crescent shaped bed to be a rib-
boned or carpet bed. These beds can be
changed annually if desired and planted
every fall with tulips and hyacinths for
spring flowering.

11. Flowerbeds. The center bed to be
filled with AlphonseBouvier and Madame
Crozy cannas, and the end beds with
coleus.

12. Fin oaks, sugar orsilver maples.

13. Chinese cypress.

All the massed planting shown is of
shrubs, a few evergreens, and some small
growing trees such as dogwoods, red bud,
white fnnge, and birches planted at the
back next the sidewalk. Large groups of
Hydrangea pnniculata grandiflora are
set freely in the margins of the shrub-
bery next the lawns. This hydrangea
when planted in masses in extremely rich
soil and cut to the ground every spring is
extremely effective and is a solid mass of
splendid large flowers for a long season
in the summer when few other shrubs are
in blossom.

A SMALL CONSERVATORY.

Greenhouse and Window.

«0W TO BUILD fi SMALL CONSERVflTORy.

The drawings here ])resente(l sh.jw a
small conservatory suitable to be attached
to a private house. They arc original and
prepared expressly for Gardening. The
dining and dra w ing rooms of many houses
are about 15 feet wide, have a chimney in
the center with windows on either side of
same. This conservatory erected in con-
junction with either of these rooms would
be an artistic and serviceable addition.
The windows could be altered to door-
ways with or without doors as desired.
.\ foundation btiilt of the same material
as that of the dwelling with stone footings
carried below frost line should be pre-
pared for the conservatory, or if this be
too expensive, locust posts could be used
instead. If posts are used the tops must
be squared, and the projjcr angle given to
those which form the corner of the octa-
gon. German siding could be nailed to

posts, the board at the grade line extend-
ing below the level two or three inches.

By consulting the scale details in con-
junction with the following description
you will, we think, understand the
"method employed in the construction of
this building.

A sill 2 inches by 6 caps the foundations
and should be laid in a thin bed of cement.
Floor beams 2 by 10 inches secured to
the sill and supported at the house on a
2x4 secured to dwelling, should be laid
the 11 foot way of conservatory. A])late
2x4. inches is next fastened to the top of
the floor beams, following the outlines of
conservatory same as sill. To this plate
the rafter feet are secured by cast iron
lugs bolted to the plate and rafter feet.
It will be noticed that this plate extends
outside of the conservatory forming a cap
for the base, and constructed in such a
way that it is impossible for water to
find its way into the joints. The height
of the sides as well as the length of the
rafters can only be determined by the room

available, position of the windows in the
second story, etc. This must all be care-
fully noted before operations are com-
menced and a large scale or full sized
drawing made to determine these points.
The rafter feet and rafters are joined to-
gether with a wooden bracket, as shown,
and securely bolted to each. The eleva-
tions and dotted lines on plan show the
number and position of the rafters. Where
the rafters join at the ridge they should
be secured to the same with iron stra]5S.
The sides of the conservatory fi-om the
top of the floor to a height of 2 teet 6
inches are panels running between rafters
and secured to the same. A sash sill caps
the panels, and above this are the side
sash 1% inches thick, hinged at the top
to facia and provided with iron straps to
open them. The facia, 1% inches thick,
runs from rafter to rafter in one contin-
uous piece The rafter feet should be cut
away where the facia strikes them so that
the face of the rafter foot and facia are on
the same plane. Thegutter isconstructed

GARDENING.

%

mwm*i

A SMALL CONSERVATORY.

top of this with thick building paper be-
tween to keep out the cokl.

AVhite pine is the best wood to use in
the construction of every part. Ground
glass is the best to glaze the roof with,
while clear double thick for the sides, or
if the owner prefers plate could be used.
An outside doorway is shown and this is
necessary, as it saves the bringing of
jjlants through the dwelling. The steps
can be built of either wood or stone.
Steam or hot water can be used to furnish
heat, and can be run from the same sys-
tem used to heat the dwelling. If hoi
water is used 9 lines of 4-inch cast iron
pipe should be placed under the tables
that extend around the outer sides ot
conservatorv. If steam is used 15 lines
..r 1 1 I -inch 'should be placed in the same
|.i.sili.)n as the other pipes.

All ihc woodwork is to be painted with
llirce coats of pure white lead and linseed
oil. All joints in the woodwork should
Ije well filled with thick white paint.

New York. D. R. C.

in two pieces Uned with tin and supported
bv brackets as shown. Care must be
taken that the tin laps over the outside
face of the gutter and extends close to the
facia cap, as otherwise water will surely
find its way into the conservatory. The
roof is formed by rafters and sash bars,
the bars being gained into the facia cap
and mitred against the rafters. The po-
sition of these can be readily seen on
elevations.

Either side of the short ridge are small
sash for venti'ation hung to the ridge and
are intended to open by means of venti-
lating machinery, which can be procured
for a small sum, of dealers in the same.

The tables can be built of wood, they
should be strong and substantial with a
band on the front projecting about two
inches above the table. The floor beams
should be covered with a narrow spruce
floor. A hard pine one should be laid on

flMflRYLUS-TENDER SHRUBS IN POTS.

1 , I have an aniaryllis which bloomed
lor the first time last March and was
again in bloom about the middle of July.
Is it common for amaryllis to bloom twice
in one year? It has never rested but has
made vigorous growth ever since it came
into my possession. I do not know the
name of it. It is of a dull or orange red,
with white stripes and green at the base
of the flower. The leaves are of a thick
leathery texture but short in growth. It
is constantly forming bulblets which I
break off, and pot the most promising of
them. Can you name it and advise me
as to future treatment?

2. Kindly advise me as to best wmter
treatment of the following shrubs, which
are in pots: Acacia, Cattleya's guava,
crape mvrtle. Cape jasmine and celestial
or sugar fig. The latter is in a large tub
and now has ripe figs on it. I have a
country place with frostproof cellar, also
furnace cellar and will build a small 10x12
greenhouse which I will try to heat with
a coal oil stove. It will be well protected
from the north and west winds and get
the full benefit of the southern sun.

St. Louis. J- T. H.

1. From a description we can not
name the amaryllis, there are so many
kinds of them. Should we suggest a name
it would only be guesswork, which is
often erroneous and verv misleading.
Better send us a leaf and a flower. Some
kinds of amaryllis are of an evergreen
nature, and others which are really decid-
uous can be made evergreen by treatment,
but it is improper treatment. We often
have au/i'ca bloom in spring and again in
summer, the same with Johnsoni (which
your description suggests), but the hip-
peastrum hybrids are not apt to do this.
In a general way as regards the cultiva-
tion of amarylUs we may say: The
plants bloom in late winter and spring,
according to treatment, as soon as they
have done blooming we repot them;about
the end of May we plunge them in a bed
out of doors with a thin lath shading
over them, and encourage them to grow
as much as possible; towards fall we be-
gin to keep them somewhat dry till by
the middle of October or first of Novem-
ber thev are kept quite dry, then we lay
the pots on their sides out of the way
where thev will be perfectly dry and in a
temperature of say 50'", and let them stay
there till they show signs of renewed
growth or flowers say about the first ot
February. We then "lift out a few at a

GARDENING.

Oct. /,

time, and water them sparingly to begin
with, and they soon rush into bloom. In
the case of evergreen species, instead of
keeping them dust dry in winter we sim-
ply keep them moist enough to prevent
the foliage from withering, and in a tem-
perature of 45° to 50°. Amaryllises are
very easily grown in this simple routine
way.

2. Most acacias bloom in Februan,' or
March; if yours belongs to this set keep
it at the cool end of your gfreenhouse, if
3'ou haven't room there keep it in the
frost proof cellar and near the light till it
shows flower, then bring it upstairs to
the window. Treat the Cape jasmine in
the same way. The guava may be kept
in the cellar all winter, where it can get
light. Keep the crape myrtle \\\ the cellar,
also the fig tree. As both of these are
deciduous, and will bear a few degrees of
frost with impunity, they will keep well
enough in a dark place, and the cooler it
is, providing hard frost is excluded, the
better. In stoxing any of these in the
cellar be very careful never to let the
roots get very dry, particularly in the case
of the evergreen plants. A cellar in which
potatoes will keep well is a good place
for such pot plants as those mentioned,
except that while the potatoes like dark-
ness, growing plants prefer the light.

they show signs of rushing up, then bring
them to the light, Wecannot advise you
to grow many Due Van Thol tulips, their
only virtue, in our eyes, is their earliness,
and unless they behave pretty well they
are very disappointing. To get good svic-
cess with tulips don't hurry them.

DUTCH AND OTHER BULBS flS HOUSE
PLANTS.

F. E. \r., Warwick, Mass., asks how to
grow (1) freesias, (2) white Roman
hyacinths, (3) Due van Thol tulips, (4-)
large flowering narcissus, (5) jonquils.

1. Take a 5 or 6-inch pot, drain it well,
fill it half full with rich light soil, now set
the freesia bulbs on this, heads up and 1
to IVa inches apart, and fill up with the
soil, give the pot a sharp rap on the table
to settle the soil firmly about the bulbs.
Now give a watering through a water
pot rose and place the pots out of doors
where they will be shaded from sunshine;
don't bury them over with earth or ashes
as you would hyacinths or tulips as the
freesias soon begin to grow, and itshould
be our aim to get them up stocky. If you
plunge the pots in the ground, a few
degrees of frost won't hurt the tops pro-
viding it does not come suddenly. Or the
newly potted plants can be kept in a
shaded frame, or north-facing window.
Bring them indoors when frost comes or
protect them in a pit or frame. When
they begin to grow, set four or five little
firm stakes into each pot near the out
edge and run a fine stringaround theseto
keep the freesias erect and from toppling
over. Water freely all the time. After
the plants have bloomed keep them green
and growing by still giving them water
as they require it, .so as to get good bulbs
for next j'ear's work, for freesias don't
deteriorate as hyacinths do.

As regards the others read what Mr.
Scott says, page 409, and to give you
confidence in his teachings we may say
that he grows for cut flowers tens of
thousands of these bulbs every year.

The Roman hyacinths, tulips,' and nar-
cissi should be potted at once, but the tops
of the hyacinths and tulijjs should be a
little above ground; the large narcissus
may be grown in the same way or alto-
gether under ground, as you Wish; we
prefer to keep the jonquil liulbs all under
ground. Some of the Roman hyacinths
may be kept warm from the first and had
in bloom for Thanksgiving, and l)y cooler
treatment others retarded till ".March.
Don't hurry up either trumpet narcissus
or jonquils; keep them in the cellar till

fl SICK BEOONlfl-ECHEVBRIfl.

H. E. L., Conn., sends a spraj' of sick
begonia and asks (1) what is its name,
and what ails it?

2. Why do the lower leaves of my
echeverias dry and fall off? The drainage
seems to be good. Do they like much sun
or will they do better in partial shade?
And should thev be well watered or kept
dry?

1. It is Begonia insignis. The ailment
is local and we can not tell what it is.
Raise a few young plants of it every year
from cuttings or slips in early spring, and
don't overwater them. Old plants of this
species are apt to get enervated.

2. You don't give us material enough
to work upon. You don't saj whether
theecheverias are dwarf sorts like sccunda
glauca, or tall ones like metallica, nor
whether they are planted out or grown
in pots. Over-dryness in summer will
cause them to lose their lower leaves, and
the same cause, also a rush to bloom,
will cause the same defect in the case of
tall sorts like retusa and wetallica. They
like open sunshine, but not a scorching
exposure. While they are in full growth
in summer they like moistish ground, but
they shouldn't be continuously wetted
overhead, better give them a thorough
good soaking occasionally than light
waterings frequently. In winter they
should be kept somewhat dry.

flMHRYLLlS- FUCHSIflS-CRINUMS.

W. A. W., Emmetsburg, Iowa, writes:

1. I purchased a number of amarjdlis
bulbs this spring, which proved to be
badl}- infested with mealy bug. They
have made no growth, as the leaves are
destroyed as fast as they push out from
the bulbs. I have picked them over time
after time, but the bugs have gotten so
far into the bvilbs, as to be difficult to get
at. What will destroy them?

2. Where can fuchsias lulgens and ser-
ratiiolia be obtained?

3. Are crinums ornatum and Moorei
the same? I have them from different
firms. I have not yet bloomed them, but
their growth isidentical,rauchresembling
a stalk of Indian corn in appearance.

1. Shake the bulbs out of their pots
and wash them perfectly clean from mealy
bugs or any other pests, then pot them
into rather small pots, potting firmly.
Keep moderately moist but inclining to
the dry side, and in winter let them drv
off altogether.

2. Fuchsia iiilgens from Currie Broth-
ers, Milwaukee, F. serratifolia may be
harder to obtain. Has anyone got it for
sale?

3. They are the same species. The
projicr name is C. Moorei.

THE GREENHOUSE.

It is time everything now was being
taken indoors, and arranged. What you
can not get into the greenhouse s'ore in
cold frames where they can easily be cov-
ered with mats or straw or shutters to
save them from inclement weather.
Avoid over crowding. Have the pots all
washed clean, and the plants neath- ar-

ranged in the house, it adds so much to
the pleasure one gets from a greenhouse.
Start up the fire early in the afternoon
to keep the temperature up while it is up;
this too is economj' of coal, less firing
being recessary, for the same end shut up
early in the afternoon to save the sun
heat. Don't nm high temperatures at
this tune of the year, and don't syringe
the plants late in the afternoon. Read
the instructions given in last issue (pages
8, 9), they are applicable yet.

STURTBVflNT'S GOOSE FLOWER.

The accompanying illustration en-
graved from a photograph taken by me
expresslj' for G.\rdening shows flowers of
this strange plant that have been in blos-
som in the conservatory at Washington
Park, Chicago, and about which you had
a note in last issue. A. party of picnicing
children visiting the conservatory saw
the curious blossoms, and unanimously
declared they looked just like a goose. An
omnipresent newspaper reporter struck
with the juvenile idea made good capital
of the same in a racy, catchy article in his
paper, and from that time on while they
lasted from 3,000 to 10,000 people a day
crowded out to the park to see the won-
derful goose flower.

The plant is a long running vine, nine
months old, and was raised from a cut-
ting of the one shown at the World's Fair.
It is growing in a box IS inches deep, and
12 inches square at the bottom and 14
inches at the top. It seems to be a very
rampant free blooming vine needing lots
of room to show it to advantage. Atone
time I counted twenty -five flower buds on
it, but on account of having to move it
from a small greenhouse to a roomier
structure, a good many fell off. Nine of
them however have blossomed into per-
fect flowers each one about three feet
long including the tail-like appendage.
One flower is shown full front, of the
others the side or nearly back view is
given. What looks like superfluous
flower stems in the photograph are
strings used to tie the flowers into a set
position so that visitors can get a better
idea of their resemblance to a goose.

Chicago. F. C. Seavey.

[The original species, Aristolocbiagigas
is a native of Guatemala, and this extra
large variety was introduced to cultiva-
tion a few years ago by Mr. E. D. Sturte-
vant, a florist of Bordentown, N. J., and
named Sturterantii in compliment to
him, by the botanical authorities at Kew,
to whom he had sent living plants. It
grew in the gardens therewith wonderful
vigor having as many as fifty flower buds
on it at a time. But while the flowers are
very striking in appearance, they are ill-
smelling. As a rule when open they meas-
ure about 11 or 12 inches wide by 15 to
22 inches long, not includingthelongtail-
like appendage, which measures about 2
to 3 feet in length.— Ed.]

CiiRVSA.NTiiEMUMs.— If in pots, keej)
them well watered at the roots, and if
they are root-bound feed them with weak
li(|uid manure. Don't crowd them, else
they will drop their lower and inner leaves
rendering the plants scraggy looking and
naked. Tie them secureh' to neat stakes,
using as few as possible to each pot, and
do the tying so neatly and unobtrusively
that a person will not notice the tying.
Be particular about disbudding. Don't
leave more than one flower bud on each
br.-inchlet; keep the most perfect bud and
remove the others, for it is better to have
one fine ftdl flower than several under-
sized imperfectly developed ones. If pos-

i8g4.

GARDENING.

23

THE GOOSE PIjOWEK,' (I

sible preserve the plants from frost. A
slight frost might not hurt the plants,
but it wouldn't do the flower buds any
good. If indoors, keep the plants where
they will get good light and free ventila-
tion; if outdoors or on the piazza have
them where cold winds can not sweep
through them, and never let them get
drenched with cold rains. But don't
coddle them. If you have no house room
for them it is an easy matter to get up a
make-shift shelter for them in a warm,
sheltered nook or spot. Make a low
house-like frame of light scantling and
enclose it with hotbed sashes not now in
use, or with oiled calico, or plant cloth.
Store the plants inside of it, either planted
out close together or in pots, and keep
the house shut up in cold or wet weather,
and opened at the sides in fine weather.

From New York southward we can
bloom a good man3' chrysanthemums in
the open garden. When the summer
flower beds — if in sheltered parts — are
emptied of their tender occupants, thev
are filled with chrysaxithemums. This
should be done as soon as possible, and in
transferring the plants from their summer
quarters to the beds in which we wish
them to bloom preserve all the ball possi-
ble to their roots.

Propagating Gera.vrms From Cut-
tings.— R. J. R., St. Joseph, Mo., writes:
— I propagated several thousand gera-
niums last April by putting the cuttings
direct in 2-inch pots in soil (in place of
sticking them first in sand), succeeding
better in that way. I lost fewer cuttings,
saved labor and raised extra good plants.
Will I succeed in this manner in October
and November as well as in spring from
out of door and greenhouse grown cut-

tings? I raise about twelve thousand
geranium plants. Growers in Europe
propagate in this manner successfully.

You can root them in that way quite
well, but not as easily as you could in
August and September, or in spring. Be
careful to keep them dry overhead, espe-
cially in the afternoon and at night, re-
move every damping leaf and scale as
soon as you notice it. Set the pots on a
bed of ashes or sand on the bench, and
keep them only moderately moist. Gera-
niums of most all kinds strike readily
from outdoor grown cuttings.

Gloxi.\ias, How to Winter them.— S.
P. J., Minnesota, asks: "How to carry
seedling gloxinias over winter. Two
years ago we had over two hundred at
this date (middle of September) three
quarters of which had not bloomed. I
got them all into pots and let them dry
off in the cellar where they probably
dried too much, for only thirteen showed
life in spring. We have now nearly as
many as before yet in frames. What shall
I do with them?"

Do as we do. We have a large number
in pots, now on their sides and drying off
under a bench out of doors, they get a
little water from drip and rain. In a few
days we will bring them indoors laying
them in a pile on their sides in the cellar
or under a greenhouse bench, where the
temperature will run about 50°, and
where they will be dry, but not dust dry.
We store lots of them in this way every
winter and they keep fine. We also have a
frame filled with gloxinias, now past, but
some of them are still green. In a lew
days we will cut the tops off all of them
then dig up the roots and save them. We

take shallow boxes, say 3 or 4 inches
deep; such as are used for starting seeds or
cuttings in, and lay the gloxinia "bulbs"
in them one deep and close together, cov-
ering them over with Hght loam or sand;
now store them in the cellar or elsewhere
as stated for those in pots. But don't lay
one box above another unless there is a
wide air space between them and while
the earth or sand in the boxes should be
pretty dry, it should not be dust dry.
Kept in this way we lose very few.

The Flower Garden.

NOTES ON CflNNflS.

Gilt edo^d Cannas are what we call
those of the Madame Crozy type that
have a deepgold band around theirpetals.
A year ago Paul Sigrist was the par e.v-
ceilence of this type, but to-day it is com-
pletely superseded by three others, namely
Queen Charlotte, Souvenir d'Antoine
Crozy, and James Farquhar, all having a
close resemblance to each other. Most
fanciers regard Souvenir d'Antoine Crozy
as the best because of its intense, glowing
color, while others look upon Queen
Charlotte as the better one. We must
grow them a year longer before we can
decide.

Cannas Florence Vaughan, Antoine
Barton, and Comte de Bouchard look
very much alike. Florence Vaughan,
however, having the right ot priority is
the proper pame.

Madame Montefiore Canna has large
pale yellow flowers with faint markings
like those of Capt. P. de Suzzoni and is
regarded as the yellowest among our
showy large blossomed sorts,

Eldorado Canna, a yellow flowered
variet3' still in the hands of F. R. Pierson
Co., however, is regarded as the greatest
acquisition we have yet found in the way
of a yellow canna.

Our American Florists wish the
French canna raisers were a little more
discriminating in the new varieties they
send out year after year. In order not to
get left the American dealers have to
buy the full set of the French new sorts,
and after growing them for a year have
the mortification of dumping the majority
of them into the rot pile, for they are
trash. They would far rather pay $5 a
plant for the really good sorts, than $1
a plant for good and bad as they come.

Unique Rose Canna.— The co'or of the
blossoms strongly reminds us of those of
C. Ehemannii, but they are not pleasant
to look upon.

"Mme. Crozy Canna," says one of our
keenest fanciers, "is among cannas what
Verschaffeltii is among coleuses, indispen-
sable; come or go what may it willstaj'."

Columbia, the crimson flowered canna
from Iowa, that was so highly honored
at the World's Fair last year, is said to
retain every feature of its promised excel-
lence.

Orange Perfection has disappointed
a good many people; it doesn't seem to be
a free growing sort. But let us give it a
further trial.

Paul Marquant is a splendid variety,
but there is a rumor that a coming new
one named Sunshine is going to supersede
it. If it does, it must be extra fine.

Six good cannas no one should be with-
out are Mme. Crozy, Charles Henderson,
Alphonse Bouvier, Paul Marquant,
Florence Vaughan, and Queen Charlotte.
Others may be better, but we will wait
till we prove them before dropping any
one of these.

24

GARDENING.

Oct. /,

Water and Manure.— If you want
good cannas plant them in rich deeph' un-
fastened soil, a mulching of manure too
will help them, and after they start to
grow keep them thoroughly watered,—
no stinted draught but flooded soakings.
But let the water be given at the root and
not over the head. Hosing over head is
ruinous to the flowers.

FLOWER GARDEN QUESTIONS.

A. S., Whitewater, Wis., asks:

1. I have a Dawson rose three years
old. It grows thriftily but has never
blossomed. What is the matter? How
should it be pruned?

2. Is any hardy species of taniarix
evergreen, or are tliey all deciduous?

3. How early should chrj^santhemums
planted in the open ground in May be
potted? Should we wait for the flower-
buds to form first?

4. What is the best way of carrj'ing
French cannas through the winter?
Should they be packed in sand?

5. I have had a plant of Eucbaris
Amazonica for the past two years; in fact
it has become four plants in one pot. As
a foliage plant it is fine and thrifty; but
it does not offer to bloom at all. ' It is
now putting up new leaves. What shall
I do to make it 1 '

1. It needs very little pruning. Thin
out poor wood, and keep in the strong,
tipping the shoots back a little, and if
they are several cut some of them back
half ways. We never knew it to fail to
bloom. But it is strictly a one crop rose.
Send us a spray that we maj' see you
have the genuine article.

2. No. All are deciduous.

3. Lift and pot them at once. Stake
them and sprinkle them overhead as soon
as you pot them, and keep them some-
what shaded for a few days, and dewed
overhead too.

4-. Lift the clumps, don't shake the
dirt away from them, then pack them
close together but only one deep, on the
cellar floor or elsewhere they will be
slightly moist all winter and in a temper-
ature not under 40°.

5. After this crop of new leaves is
pretty well matured, keep theplant rather
dry (but not so much as to wilt the
leaves) for two to three months, then in-
crease the moisture and warmth a little,
and it will probably bloom all right.

T«E FLOWER OflRDEN.

Finish gathering all the seeds 3-ou want
of salvia, petunia, canna, scabios, Drum-
mond phlox, coreopsis, vinca and such
other things as you yet can get in quan-
tity. Fill up the cold frame with seed-
lings as directed in last issue, page 4.
Clear off all rubbi.shy plants and keep
things neat and tidy", for ne.Ttness and
cleanness make a garden look attractive
even when there aren't many flowersinit.

If you haven't secured cuttings enough
of geraniums, coleus, alternanthera,
ageratum, and other bedding plants, get
them at once before frost strikes them. As
soon as frost injures our flower garden
plants we may as well clear them out and
fill up their places with Dutch bulbs —
hyacinths, tulips, daffodils, etc., for a dis-
play in spring.

All tender plants as palms, ficus, cro-
tons, begonias and the like that are
bedded out in summer but which we also
desire to save should be taken indoors at
once, for cold nights will injure their
leaves, and cold rains rot their roots.

They may look fresh enough, but it is
time now they were inside.

It is a good time now, while the stems
are alive, to dig up and save the many
miscellaneous tender bulbs that we plant
out to bloom in summer. They consist of
tigridias, Milla biflora, Bessera ekgans,
some zephyranthes, some oxalis.crinums,
arums, and the like. Put them into paper
or muslin bags, properly labelled, and
store them where they can be kept dry
and frost cannot reach them. A shelf in a
cupboard is generally the place where
they are kept when we haven't many of
them.

Cannas stand about as much frost as
do dahlias. After frost comes to hurt the
leaves cut them over close to the ground,
dig up the roots, label them, and with-
out shaking the dirt from the clumps,
take one or more clumps of a kind, as you
may need, and store them close together,
heads up and only one deep on the floor
or on a shelf of tlie cellar where frost can-
not reach them nor hot furnace heat
scorch them. If you don't care to put
them into the cellar yet you may store
them in a shed or most any where covered
over with their cut tops or sedge to pro-
tect them from frost, and keep them for a
month or more yet in good form before
storing. These new fine flowered dwarf
cannas cannot be dried ofi'in winter with
impunity as we used to the old Canna
Indica.

Gladioli.— It is time to digup and save
all that are out of bloom; we gain noth-
ing by letting the bulbs stay another day
in the ground. Cut them over close to the
ground, dig them up, saving every little
bulblet for stock, and store them in flats
in a dry airy shed where frost cannot
reach them. In a week or two whenthc3'
dry pretty well we can remove the piec< s
of stalk left to them, and store them in
less bulk indoorsor inthecellar. Butfrost
must never g< t at them. No matter how
hardy the bulbs may be in the ground,
frost will kill them if it gets at them out
of the ground.

SOME OF THE NEWER SWEET PBflS.

Eckford's new Venus is his crowning
production. In form, size, coloring and
vigor it is superb. The color is a delicate
salmon buff" self.

Princess Maj' is badly mixed in myrows
with The (Jueen and several other inferior
forms, but what seems to be the type is a
rather purer lavender than the fine
Countess of Radnor.

Bronze King has white wings and
standards of a curious tint supposed to
be bronze. It is very pretty and distinct.

Her Majesty nearly resembles Splendor,
bivt is not quite as deep colored as that
fine variet.y.

Rising Sun is a charming blossom show-
ing several shades of pink, but it is not
large nor of the finest form.

American Belle fails utterly to show its
characteristic spots as yet, and reminds
me that three j'ears ago some plants of
Blanche Ferry gave spotted blossoms late
in the season, but seed saved from them
faiUd to reproduce stich markings the
next year.

Ignea germinated so ijoorly that there
is only one sickly plant, which has not
yet bloomed.

Mrs. Eckford behaved nearly as badly.
The blossoms are a very pretty but faint
primrose tint.

Emily Henderson, a very fine white va-
riety, germinated very, very badly out of
doors as it did last year, and that is a
bad fault in a flower asj)iring to popular
favor. Not one of 70 seeds germinated

out of doors. Seed planted in a pot in a
frame did fairly well.

These newer sorts and such of the old
ones as are of defective germinatingpower
were started in 8-inch pots of mellow soil
in a frame, as recommended by Rev. Mr.
Hutchins, and were transplanted when
an inch or two high to their place in the
rows. Once started the only enemies
that are at all formidable are snails, En-
glish sparrows and hot dry weather.
Lime dust defeats the snails, netting
securely fastened circumvents the spar-
rows, who take a fiendish delight in nip-
ping the buds and yoimg shoots, and
deep preparation of the soil, trench plant-
ing of the seed, a liberal mulch and fre-
quent soakings from the hose discount a
dry spell. With such treatment sweet
peas in this latitude and on a heavy soil
will scarcely flag at all before severe
frosts if absolutely no seed pods are
allowed to form. In the past three days
I have cut over 1,300 sprays of bloom
from a double row 35 feet long.

G. V. H.

Corning, N. Y., .August 7, 1894.

WILD PLANTS IN BLOOM SEPTEMBER 20.

Wild asters are making a grand dis-
play. One of the best of the genus is
the New England aster (Novx Angliso).
It grows five to six feet high and pro-
duces for a month or more large purple
flowers. No one should miss cultivating
it. A. patens, two to three feet and in
several varieties has slender but numerous
branches, which are full of bright blue
flowers. Some years ago I found one of
these in Maryland which grew six to
seven feet in height and differed widely in
leaf and habit. Prenanthoides two to
three feet bears showy pale blue flowers.
Vndulatus, pale blue, two feet; multi-
florus, white, tall; dumosits, purplish
white, two feet, and tenuifolius, pale pur-
ple, three feet, are also in fine bloom. A
closely allied and beautiful plant, Dip-
lopappus linariifolius, grows but a foot
high and has violet colored flowers. It is
a good garden plant.

In wet grounds an annual tick seed
(Coreopsis trichosperma) has attractive
deep golden yellow flowers. As it seeds
freely many plants come up together,
making when in bloom a fine display. It
is often grown in gardens, asit should be.
[One of the burr marigolds (Bidens chrys-
antbemoides) about a foot high, and
growing alongside of muddy streams has
showy yellow flowers, but the3' are usu-
ally hidden among the taller grasses and
weeds. B. connata, also a swamp plant
is inconspicuous —Ed.]

In fields where it has a chance to
develop itself, the large purple flowers of
the tall thistle, Circiam altissimum are
quite beautiful. In favorable situations
it grows six to eight feet in height, but
in shaded or poor ground it is often not
half of that.

What is known as yellow foxglove
(Gerardia quercHolia) with golden yel-
low flowers is one of the prettiest blossoms
of the season. Another species (pedicu-
Inria) has yellow bell shaped flowers.
Purpurea has purple ones; all of these are
found in dry woods. But imfortunately
for those who wish to transplant them
they are parasitic on the roots of other
])Iants. The only way to have them in
the garden is to sow the seeds in spring,
which sometimes results in the giving of"
a few plants.

The hor^e balm (Co//;"nson/a Canaden-
sis) has large panicles of inconspicuous
greenish white, small flowers. The hedge
hyssop (Lopbantbus nepetoides) three to

i8g4.

GARDENING.

25

six feet high bears greenish yellow spikes
of flowers.

Among golden rods in bloom are stricta
growing in wet woods, two feet; speciosa
a fine showy species, rich yellow, three to
six feet; nemoralis, a common roadside
sort with grayish foliage, two feet; gigan-
ic.'i, alargc species, in dry fields five to six
feet; and ulmifolia, another one of large
growth.

The lovel_v fringed gentian {G. crinita)
is not as plentiful as it u.sed to be, but we
still get it in moderate numbers. The
flowers of the closed gentian (G. An-
drewsii) do not open as the other does,
they give one the impression that they
are only flower buds.

Polygonum Pennsylvanicuw, P. Hydro-
piper, P.articulatumand P.dumatorium,
all knot weeds, are also to be met with.
In wet meadows the beautiful Sabbatia
chlorides, the American centaury, glad-
dens us with its bright purple flowers.

Philadelphia. J. Meehan.

GRASS— SWEET PEflS— flSTERS-LUY OF TAB
VfltLEY.

J. D., Chicago, asks:

1. Is any lawn grass seed free fi-om
crab grass, that makes its appearance in
.\ugust and is such a disfigurement to
lawns? I have bought lawn seed of
various dealers and got lotsoi crab grass
in each.

2. How should soil be prepared in the
fall for sweet peas?

3. For the past five years I have had
splendid success with China asters. This
year they did not do well. Many of them
blighted and died. On examination of the
roots I found clusters of the common
angle worm bunched in amopgst them.
Do j-ou think the trouble was due to their
presence?

4. How should soil be prepared for
lilies of the valley? Do they require fer-
tilization from year to year?

1. We are inclined to think tlie crab
grass seed is in your own ground rather
than in the lawn grass seed you bought.
If crab grass is indigenous to your soil it
is almost impossible to eradicate it no
matter what we are told to the contrary.
To show you how unlikelj- it is to be in
the seed you buy, let us explain: Blue
grass, red top, bent, and the other fine
grasses cultivated for lawns, come up,
blossom and ripen their seed, and the crop
is harvested, before it is time for crab
grass to be in blossom. And no person
would grow crab grass seed to mix with
lawn grass.

2. By double deep digging or plowing,
and mulching with well rotted manure,
but don't let the manure touch the seed.
The soil should be good, rich, and not apt
to dry out in summer or lay under water
in winter.

3. The angle worms had nothing to do
with the aster failure. Their presence
inight be due to over fatted ground. A
lil)eral w^atering of weak lime water
would move them quick enough.

■i. Lily of the valley loves rich ground.
We grow it in a large quantity. In
.Vovember after clearing oft" the dirt and
leaves from the jiatch we cart on a lot of
rotted manure spreading it evenly over
the gi-ound about two to three inches
deep and leave it there. This is repeated
every year, and we get splendid flowers.
But we must observe not to let the plants
get too thick else they will weaken each
other. While this manuring strengthens
the plant it isn't necessary; we also get
capital flowers without it.

Tuberous rooted Begonias.— As soon
as the frost destroys them cut over their
tops close to the ground, dig up the roots
and store them one-deep and close to-
gether in three or four inch deep flats
with a little earth, sand, or sawdust
about them; then take them into a shed,
cellar, room, or elsewhere where they can
be kept quite cool but frost cannot reach
them. The air of the place should be dry
and sweet, not close and muggy. (Moxi-
nias, caladiums and some other roots
should be kept somewhat warm, say 50°
in winter, but tuberous begonias keep
better in a temperature of 40'^. If frost is
apt to get into the place they are stored
in, coverthem overasyou would potatoes
or apples to save them from frost.

For Seed.— Tuberous begonias do not
seed freely out of doors, but if you lift a
few of the best of them and pot them and
bring them indoors either into the win-
dow of a warm room or a greenhouse,
they will seed quite freely. Florists
alwaj'S save their seeds from potted
plants. They are very easy to lift, and
live nicely when potted, but keep them
dry overhead and remove all fallen or
decaying leaves and flowers as soon as
you see them, else they will rot the others.

Don't try to strike them from cuttings
now for you cannot do it, and if you
could, the rooted cuttings wouldn't form
tubers before winter, hence when they
faded they would die, for there would be
no tuber to pei'petuate them. You can-
not keep them growing all winter, it is
contrary to their nature. But potted
plants of these begonias do make lovely
specimens in October and early November.

Tuberous Begonias; side shoots not
BLOOMING.- Why have the side flower
buds of my tuberous begonias seldom
opened this season? The plants have been
thrifty as to leaves and stems with abund-
ant and large buds, but only the middle
ones opened well. S. P. J.

The side buds of tuberous begonias
never open the same as the middle flowers;
there is a great difference in the formation
of the blooms. The female flowers are
formed on the side and are of a difterent
shape and seldom as large as the middle
or male flowers. The female flowers can
be distinguished by the seed pod at the
back of the petals. Thomas Griffin.

Westbury Station, N. Y.

Red Spider on Sweet Peas.— P. W. S.,
Kansas City, writes: I had an abundance
of bloom until about the 10th or 15th of
August, when some very small grub or
worm began to work on them and all at
once the leaves all died except at the very
ends of the plants, which have staj'ed
green and still show an occasional sickly
looking bud. The worms spin a very
delicate gauzy net. Have not seen any-
thing about such an enemy to the pen
culture in any of the works or flower
papers, and wonder if others arc trouljled
the same way.

No doubt, red spider. Heat and drouth,
and an enervated condition of the vines
caused by dryness at the root are all
favorable to its development. It multi-
plies with extraordinary rapidity, attack-
ing most anything, trees, shrubs or herbs.
Out ot doors there is practically no cure
for it. Next year yon may not be
troubled with it "at all.'

ViNCA rosea— I LIKE IT NOW.— I saW

your allusion to my disappointment page
374, on first seeing your Vincarosea, and

you are quite right in thinking that
further knowledge would alter my
opinion. I have had the rose and the
white colored ones here this summer, and
considering the luxuriousness of growth
and beauty of flowers I am a great ad-
mirer of it now. I planted patches of it
in all kinds of soil, good and poor,
watered some of these patches, and left
others severely alone, and it has done
finely (equally so) in all the patches.
Flushing, N. Y. J. B.G.

Clematis fungus. — Mr. Egan did not
find the solution of copper effective in
staying the clematis fungus. It is too
late in the day to dispute the power ot
copper solutions against any or all forms
of fungus. Myyoungtriend simply locked
the door after the horse was stolen.

Thomas Meehan.

Roses.

ROSES IN WINTER.

I would like to know how to bloom
roses in winter and early spring in an
ordinary living room, or in a cellar which
has a west window. This room of the
cellar is used as a laundry and will be
kept warm to keep the water pipes from
freezing. The temperature will average
about 50° except Mondays and Tuesdays
when it will be warmer. As other plants
such as gera.iiums and hyacinths do well
here, I thought roses might also succeed,
although of course they would not do as
well as in a greenhouse. I have never
attempted raising roses before, but
thought I would like to try. I obtained
my plants from a reliable florist this fall
and thev include the following varieties:
The Bride, Bridesmaid, La France, Star
of Gold, Sunset, Mme. Welche, Perle des
Jardins, Duchess of Albanv, Ernest Metz
and Mme. de Watteville. T. D. A.

South Bend, Ind.

In a warm sunny window you can get
nice roses in winter, especially after Feb-
ruary. The plants should now be well-
rooted in their pots, and kept cool and
somewhat dry, but not nearly quite dry.
Prune them back more or less according
to their kind and strength in November,
and don't hurry them till after Christmas.
Then place them in a warm sunny window
give them water more freely at the root
and in the morning and early afternoon
of bright days dew them overhead with
a fine spray. The cellar window is a very
poor place for ros-s in winter, and a west
exposure is far from a good one for them.
Trying to get roses from the cellar win-
dow will probably spoil your plants and
disappoint you in results.

ROSE flLSflCE AND LORRAINE.

S. W. A., Lake Geneva, Wis., asks: Can
you tell me where I can buy plants ol the
Alsace and Lorraine rose for planting in
a rose garden?

We do not know where plants of the
rose in question can be obtained in this
country; we have seen it described in
some of the European catalogues as a
hybrid perpetual; we find it in the cata-
logue of Ketten Freres, Luxembourg, and
also in that of P. Lambert, Trier. It is
described as a large dark red rose, intro-
duced by Duval in 1880.

Ellwanger & Barrv.

Rochester, N. Y.

26

GARDENING.

Oct. /,

e«DENIM6

William Falconer, Editor.

PtJBLISHEU TQE 1ST AND 15TH <

THE GARDENING COMPANY,

Monon Building, CHICAGO.

Subscription Price. $2. UU a Year— 31 Numbers. Adver-

ibscrlptlons. adver-

it :

desire to help you.

ASK ANY QCTESTIONS you please about plants,
flowers, fruits, vegetables or other practical gardening
matters. We will lake pleasure In answering them.

SEiNi) ITS Notes of your experience in gardening in
any line; tell us of your successes that others may be
enlightened and encouraged, and of your failures,
perhaps we can help you.

Send rs Photographs or Sketches of your
flowers, gardens, greenhouses, fruits, vegetables, or
horticultural appliances that we may have them en-

CONTENTS.
aquatics.

A little pond in Iowa (iUus) 17

trees and shrubs.
Planting evergreen trees and shrubs in fall ... 18

Pruning lilacs 18

Transplantingdeciduous trees and shrubs . . .18

Azaleas— Magnolias 19

Shrubs in bloom 19

Rhododendron — China pinks 19

Plan for a small park (illus) ... . . . . ! 19

GREENHOUSE AND WINDOW.

How to build a small conservatory (4 illus) ... 20

Amaryllis— Tender shrubs in pots 21

Bulbs as house plants 22

A sick begonia— Echeveria 22

Amaryllis— Fuchsias — Crinums 22

The greenhouse . 22

Sturtevaufs goose flower (illus) 22

Chrysanthemums . 22

Propagating geraniums from cuttings . . ! ! 23
How to winter gloxinias 23

THE flower garden.

Flower garden questions . . . .' . . . .' .' .' .".24

The flower garden 24

Some of the newer sweet peas 24

Wild plants in bloom Sept. 20 24

Grass, sweet peas, asters, etc 25

Tuberous rooted begonias 25

Red spider on sweet peas 25

Vinca rosea 25

Clematis fungus 25

ROSES.

Xoses in winter 25

Rose Alsace and Lorraine .' 25

THE FRUIT garden.

The fruit garden 27

Black currants not bearing 27

Mulching strawberries ! ! . 27

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN.

The vegetable garden 27

MUSHROOMS.

Home-made spawn (illus) 27

flNNfllS OF HORTICULTURE FOR 1893.

This is tlif litth volume of the series of
;iiinu;il books g<jttcii ud by Professor L.
H. Bailey of Cornell University. It con-
tains about 180 pages, costs a dollar, and
is published by theOrange Judd Co., New
York. It is largely devoted to horticult-
ure at the World's Fair, Chicago, last
year. The ornamental and landscape
features of the exhibition are discussed,
the fruit and other exhibits enumerated.
In fact it is unique as being the only
record of the horticultural department of
the World's Fair, that we know of. In
the way of living plants every plant ex-
hibited is mentioned, that is' the names
under which the plants were shown are
given. We value the book highly as a
work of reference.

The Earl of Harrington has opened
a fruit and vegetable stoie in London.

Home made Mushroom Spawn. — We
have received from R. & J. Farquhar &
Co., seedsmen, Boston, a sample brick of
home-make spawn. The brick is com-
pletely permeated by the bluish white
mycelium, and even before we plant it we
have no hesitation in saying that it is
good spawn and full of life.

Seedling Cannas. — We have received
from Mr. Antoine Wintzer, West Grove,
Pa., a boxful of flowers of his seedling
cannas. Some of these blossoms are very
beautitul, large, full, bright, and distinct;
two seedlings from Queen Charlotte are
especially attractive, one is in the style of
the mother but more golden. Some yel-
lows are very yellow, one being pure yel-
low, but unfortunately rather narrow
petalled. A seedling of Ca/jna Ehetnannii
has blossoms not unlike those of the
parent in color. By the way, we never
before knew C. Ehetnannii to ripen seed.

Clerodendron trichotomum is now
(September 10) in full bloom. It is a tall,
dense, broad, and bushy hardy shrub from
Japan. Its leaves are heart shaped, large,
bold, dark green, and like those of most
of the genus, ill-smelling; the flowers are
white with reddish-purple tinged calyx,
peculiarly fragrant, and produced in
terminal cymes. This bush has retained
its foliage and kept its healthy green color
all summer notwithstanding the severe
drouth. It is a very fast grower, attain-
ing, under favorable conditions, a height
and spread of six or seven feet in three
years. While it is perfectly hardy at
Dosoris we are not prepared to say how
hardy it may be in more rigorous places;
but even if cut to the ground, providing
its roots have been well mulched, it will
start from the bottom the next spring. A
very good addition to large gardens or
parks, but not neat and pretty enough
for small gardens.

Magnolia parvifora.— The meaning
of this name is small-flowered magnolia.
A subscriber wants to know why we
didn't give the English name as well as
the botanical one. Because there are
several magnolias that have smaller flow-
ers than this one has, M. glauca and AT.
Kobus for instance. The specific name
(parviffora) is a most unfortunate and
undeserved one, and in the eyes of those
who don't know the plant, it has a ten-
dency to depreciate it.

Wild Mushrooms are unusually plenti-
ful. The long summer drouth, recently
succeeded by the copious rains is the
cause of this. But we never knew wild
mushrooms to be more infested with
maggots than they are this season.

Aster Blister Beetles have been
very numerous and destructive this sum-
mer. They come in July, last through
August, and disappear before the middle
of September. They are nearly an inch
long, black and voracious; indeed, it is
almost incredible the amount of mischief
they can do in a short time, eating over
the aster flowers. Their technical name
is Epicanta Pennsylvanica, and they have
before now been referred to in G

August 1, page 378. Tedious although
it may be the best way to get rid of them
is to shake them off into a wide mouthed
tin with a little water and kerosene in it,
as we do with rose bugs in June.

Soap Suds for house plants and those
about our doors, in last issue, page 10,
has brought us some comments. We are
glad of this, for we speak from many

year's actual, practical experience, and
cannot retract one word, no matter how
long cherished, pet a theory the soap suds
notion may have become. Use all the
soap suds you may out in the garden, but
keep it away from about the house, it
looks bad and smells bad, and we have
other means of feeding our plants that
are much more cleanly and quite as
eflfective.

Hedvsarum multijugu.m is the name oi
a half-shrubby plant from Central Asia,
and which has been recently introduced
to our gardens. It has pinnate (15 to 20
pairs) leaves and loose racemes of pea
flowers. "They are bright red-purple,
with a white and yellow spot at the base
of the standard." The plant is said to be
remarkably handsome but we have not
yet tried it.

Cupressus Nutkaensis var. lutea is
one of the novelties among hardv ever-
green conifers. Its terminal growths are
said to be of a clear bright yellow color.
Although the typical green form, usually
called Tbujopsis borealis, is hardy here
and makes quite a pretty evergreen, some-
times plants of it have a disagreeable way
of dying off suddenh', and without any
visible cause.

Tchihatchewia isatidea is the name
of a little ornamental cruciferous plant, a
native of Armenia and a novelty in our
gardens. No matter how pretty the
plant may be that name will kill it in
cultivation. But we might call it the
rosetted stock, and put up with it in this

Teas' Weeping mulberry.— When Mr.
Temple saw it on its own roots and its
main stem trained up as straight as a
ship mast and how the arms drooped
straight down all around, and that the
trunk was as stiff as that of any other
tree, he declared he was going right home
to do the same with his squat headed
things.

Not a Canna — G. R. C, Springfield,
0., writes: A Texas correspondent sends
us enclosed flower. He claims it to be a
canna and white flowered. He sowed
canna seed and this was one of the pro-
ducts. It somewhat resembles a canna in
foliage. No, it is not a canna. It is
probably a Curcuma. The flowers were
damp and rotted when they got to us;
we base our opinion on the thickset spike
and leaflet. Curcuma albiiiora has white
flowers.

Building a Greenhouse.— Now is the
time, when we have more plants than we
know what to do with, that many ama-
teurs wish they had a small greenhouse
to relieve the congestion. But they are
afraid to build one because thi-y don't
know how, and they fear the expense, and
they have no idea of how to heat it.
Select a warm, south or southeast facing
exposure, in front of a building, close fence
or wall, and make up your mind about
how much of a greenhouse you want. If
you want a pretentious structure get a
regular greenhouse builder to put it up
for you; but if it is simply a plain, cheap
house you are after, make a plan of it and
send the same to some builder dealing in
greenhouse materials (several advertise
in Gardening) and ask him what he'll
furnish you the woodwork for— that will
include grooved sash bars, mountings,
plates, and as much more as you wish,
with them on hand, any handy person,
or the village carpenter, can put the house
together. It is far better and cheaper to
get the sash bars, etc., from these build-

GARDENING.

27

MUSHROOMS KAIbKU *'ROM HOME-MADE SPAWN

crs than to have it worked out at the
local planing mill in your own village.
And it makes greenhouse building very
simple and quickly done. The house may
be heated from the residence, or indepen-
dently with an oil stove arrangement, or
a base-burner hot water boiler.

The Fruit Garden.

TflE FRUIT GARDEN.

Gathering the apples and pears is what
now concerns us most. They are drop-
ping so fast that if we let them hang much
longer on the trees we won't have many
prime fruits to save. We pick up the best
of the windfalls and lay them aside for
early or immediate use; but all the hand
picked fruit are carefully put into barrels
having several openings in their sides.
We keep thesebarrelsinacool, airy, shady
place, and set on boards to keep them off
the ground, and covered over to save
them from rain. That is with apples.
Hut we store the pears two to three deep
on shelves in a cool, airy room, darkened
in the day time. As soon as the pears
begin to ripen we must reduce their bulk
by spreading them out to one or two
thick. Pears spoil quicker than apples
and need more attention.

It is now a good time to renew our
plantations of blackberry bushes; in
transplanting them cut the canes back
considerably, and be very careful to pre-
serve the piece of underground stem or
cross root from which the canes have
sprung. Raspberry bushes may also be
transplanted, but in both cases it will be
|)rudent to lav down the canes this com-
ingwinter and coverthem andthecrowns
well with several inches of earth over
winter. As a rule growers prefer plant-
ing raspberries in spring.

cut out most of the old brush and gave
them a good dressing of old chips, rotten
wood and long manure, and have kept
them free from grass and weeds ever since.
With the same treatment our red currants
and gooseberries have yielded well, but
the black currants have borne very little.
They start to grow all right in the spring
but in a short time the leaves become
shriveled and are covered with whitish
spots, the spots on the underside of the
leaf becoming brownish as the leaf gets
older. The young leaves appearing later
in the season are pale. They either fail to
bloom, or what is more usual, fail to set
fruit and most of what does set never
comes to full growth. What is the best
thing to do with such bushes? Enclosed
are some of the leaves forvou tot

The black currant leaves are badly in-
fested with a fungous leaf parasite, Sep-
toria Ribis, which causes the foliage to
become spotted and comparatively worth-
less. There is nothing to be done to save
the leaves of this vear, but for next sea-
son spray once a week with Bordeaux
mixture beginning as the buds unfold in
spring.

TflE BLACK CURRANT BUSHES DON'T BEAR
FRUIT.

The Rev. S. H. McNcd. Ontario, writes:
We have 30 to 4.(1 black currant bushes
which in their present condition are un-
profitable. When we came here fouryears
ago the bushes werelarge, brushy and in a
heavyblue grass sod. I dugaway the sod.

MULCflINO STRAWBERRIES.

C. H. McN., Chesley, Ont., writes:— In
giving directions how to winter straw-
berries all writers say not to mulch till
the ground is frozen hard and some say
"hard enough to carry a wagon." Here
the snow falls before the ground freezes.
I never saw the groimd frozen too hard
to dig up nicely with the spade. The
snow usually lies till the last of March.
But from that till the weather becomes
warm there is enough freezing and thaw-
ing to injure strawberries. When shall
we mulch?

At Dosoris we mulch our strawberry
grounds somewhere about the end of
November or early in December, no mat-
ter how hard or light the frost is. Before
that time we have several sharjj frosts
and thaws, but the ground is seldom
locked up for the winter sooner than the

middle or end of December, and some-
times not then. Of course it is much
easier to do the work when the ground is
frozen than when it isn't, and wc always
choose a frosty morning or day; but after
wc get on the mulching we let it stay
there irrespective of the weather till the
first of April or thereabout. And when
we apply the mulching the ground is
seldom hard enough to bear up a wagon,
our climate isn't so rigorous. Last June
both Mr. Ellwanger and Mr. Barry of
Rochester saw the p'antation here when
it was in bearing, and both of them ex-
pressed thtmselves as seldom having seen
a finer one. There is no hard set rule.
We would mulch your strawberry patch
just before we expected snow, no matter
whether the ground was frozen or not.

The Vegetable Garden.

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN.

It is now an important time in this de-
partment. We are daily expecting frost
and must prepare for it. If )'ou have a
patch of young snap beans, or a few rows
of Henderson's dwarf Lima, or some late
sown tomatoes, or a bed of New Zealand
spinach, you can save them for a while by
setting frames and sashes over them, and
banking about the frames with a little
dirt to keep all snug and warm. With
mats, sedge or straw cover the sashes in
the event of frosty weather. Get the cold
frames prepared for Itttuces. Use rich
mellow soil. Plant thickly, say 7 inches
apart each in the case of Boston Market.
Get up the frame boards for the winter
spinach. See that the turnips and beets
are kept clean and the ground about them
hoed and mellow to induce quick growth
and tender roots. Before sharp frost
conies all of these root crops should be
pulled, topped and stored. We won't pull
them here before the end of the month or
early next one. Keep the ground mellow
and clean about recently sown spinach
and kale, so as to give them a good start
in life.

Mushrooms.

HOME-MADE MUSHROOM SPAWN.

A year ago Mr. S. Edward Paschall, a
seedsman and market gardener of Doyles-
towu. Pa., sent us ten bricksof his home-
made mushroom spawn for trial, with
the request: "If the spawn is good or
medium, or poor, I would like your frank
opinion. * * I may say that I have
none to sell." That was spawn enough
to plant a goodlj' sized bed and insure a
fair test, and we had the pleasure of re-
porting that we found the spawn to be as
potent as any we had ever used, and it
produced a fine crop of mushrooms with
us.

Our illustration, from a flash light pho-
tograph, shows a portion of one of Mr.
Paschall's test beds that yielded I'j
pounds to the square foot, and we are in-
debted to his courtesy for its use here.

To include in a paper on mushrooms
read by us last winter before the Mass.
Hort. Society, Mr. Paschall very kindly
told us all about how he made this spawn,
but as the Transactions of the Society
containing that paper have not yet been
published, we will give you his method a
written by himself, in his own newspape*

28

' • • GARDENING.

Oct. /,

"Select a shed, out-building or wagon
house, having a clay floor. An empty
horse stall might answer, but the danger
would be of too much dryness. An out-
side shed or wagon house is more likely
to have a damp floor; but no water must
be admitted, either from the roof or from
surface drainage.

"Upon this floor spread horse manure
that has never been wet bv rains or sur-
face w ater. The water of the stable will
do no harm. This manure may be put in
all at once or in successive la_vers until it
attains a depth of three, four or even six
inches. Loam in small quantity, mixed
with it, will do no harm, and will add to
its solidity. This manure may be walked
upon and tramped until it is (|uite firm.
The writer has sometimes run a small
roller over it, and has sometimes turned
a horse loose upon it for a day or so, in
order to get it well tramped. Then let it
alone for six or eight weeks.

"The upper partof thebed, whenitisex-
posed to the air, will become very dry,
but the lower part, next the clay floor,
will never lose its moisture. In the lower
part, in fromsixty to ninety days, natural
spawn of the rankest quality will be de-
veloped; and spawn thus procured may
be saved for use in that shape. It may be
put at once into a prepared mushroom
bed or it may be dried for future use. If
dried it will retain its potency for an in-
definite time."

Some of our readers perhaps wish to
ask: Can't I make my own spawn as
well and cheaply as l" can buy it? We
answer, no. If you are a verv large
grower of mushrooms you might be able
to; otherwisethe chancesareyou'd neither
make good spawn nor grow'many mush-
rooms. Better buy what spawn you need.

If you like

GARDENING

Please recommend

it to your friends. ^-^^

ONE MILLION ^^.f^^J^

plants, etc. for landscape gardeners, parks cem-
eteries and private gardens 250,000 Berberis
Thunbergii, red berried Berberry, California and
Common Privet, Spirsea Thunbergii. Buckthorn,
Honey Locnst. Japan Quince. Hedge plants.
Woodbine, Wistaria, Periploca. Bignonia,
Ampelopsis, Honeysuckles. Viticas, and Ever-
greens. Catalogues free. Prices low.
B. M. WATSON. Old Colony Nurseries, Plymouth. Mass.

"Popular I euYtiS'-iyi^e'orolTr

Seeds and Bulbs ' f^furHfietieUr^'J
tor Fa ll Planilncj." raTfSJt'KrtS'elert

expenditure of time and
iyi,1""fi,i 1"", "I' ,'"'"[''1 l''a'e of Tulips. If you
!.?Ji-.""'i''"", '■'!''''' "'"' Hiilbs. cither In the window
ndt neL'lect securing the informa-

L. R. BENEDICT

ELLENVILLE. Ulst er Co., N. Y.

IF YOU (STANDARD PEARS,

WANT I JAPAN PLLIMS,
(PEACH TREES,

WHiriNa NURSERY CO.. Roxbury?Masy!

O AA C\C\C\ One Year Peach
C)UU,UUU Trees, Apples, As=
paragus and Strawberry Plants.

BERLIN NURSERIES, Berlin, Md.

EAGLE BRAND THE BE5T.

NO TAR.

ROOFING

NO TAR.

It is superior to any other roofing, and unequaled for House, Barn, Factory, or out-
buildings; it costs half the price of shingles, tin, or iron; it is ready for use and easily ap-
plied by anyone; it is the best rooting in the market, in durability, to all others.

Send for estimate, and state size of roof.

. . . RUBBER PAINT

The best known paint in the world for tin, iron or shingle roofs, fences, sides of barns
or out-buildings. It costs only 60 cents per gallon in barrel lots, or $4.50 for a 5-gallon
tub. Color, dark red. It will stop leaks in tin or iron roofs that will last for years. It
is guaranteed not to peel, crack, scale, nor wash off, and is fire-proof against sparks.
TRY IT.

EXCELSIOR PAINT & ROOFING CO.

155 Duane Street, NEW YORK, N. Y.

Before Buying: Holland Bulbs

Send a postal card for our Fall Catalogue for 1894. It gives carefully condensed
lists of the best varieties of Hyacinths, Tulips, Crocus, Narcissus, Oxalis, Ixias,
Lilies, etc. Also Novelties and Specialties. Three unique features in our Fall
Catalogue are :

I Sffi" A Chart showing depth and distance apart to plant.

28®" An idea imported from Holland.

38®° Three Persian Iris Free with each order.

Write for a copy to-day, SENT FREE TO ALL.

w.

ATLEE BURPEE & CO.,

PHILADELPHIA,

PA.

We Grow^/r^/fmono? Roses Annually

iBULBS.

nyntiiirtliinss.'islar-iiy. Are headquarters for the choicest
it and Ornamental Trees, Shrubs.Vlnes, Roses, Plants,

.N'o finer assortment of Large or Small Fruits, Shrubs or

Roses in America. With more acres of Ornamentals than

any other Nursery can show. I'hiiiliTs as w^'ll as Nur-

^ <,Tvmon, Florisis and Dealers are cordially invitcti to r;ill uthI ins|ject our

F.iLl, PRICE LIST AND BCLB t ATALO«;l K FREE.

41st YEAR. 1,000 ACRES. 29 GREENHOUSES.

STORRS & HARRISON CO., Box il. Painesville. Ohio.

Bulbs for Fall Planting

Lil. Longiflorum,
Calla Ethiopica.
Chinese Narcissus.

1 Calla Ethiopica,

2 Roman Hyacinths.
2 Paper White Narci!
2 Lil. Longiflorums.

Send your nBin(
CatatOKUe which will appear .Ian. Isl. Parlies send-
ing orders for ahove will receive cataloffue free.

ADDRESS H. H. BERQER & CO.,

Established 1878. SAN FRANCISCO, CAL.

Trees. Trees. Trees.

For Avenue and Street plautiug,
including an ininiense stock of

MAPLES, ELnS, POPLARS,

LINDENS, OAKS,
in variety, of both medium and
largesizes. Estimates furnished.

THE WM. H. iMOON CO.,

Morrisville, Pa.

D| Tl DC^ 1000 Varieties of Cacti.
OU LD^ *'"' *•"■**. °' '"^ BULBS.

/-♦ A /-♦'-r<w 12 Cacti. $1. Sf'orSOcts.

L.Xi.X I ISO Blooming Bulbs, $!.

^yi^\^ ■ 1 Onfor5(lofs..°5ror 25cts.

RARE PLANTS Book on CactlJlS Pages' lOcts.
A. BLANC & C0.316 N iiih 9t PHILADELPHIA

Mention Gardening.

Edison Phonograph

THE NORTH A.MF.RK
2SS Waba.sh ;

A Mechanical Aman-
uensis in voiir
office.'
A Matchless Enter-
tainer in your
home.

For particulars address
N PHONOGRAPH CO.,
:ir Jackson), Chicago.

All the correspondence connected 1

Hon of Gardening Is dli

tranBcrll)ed from same or

tages of the phonograpl: ....

great, the two cardinal points being: No limit to

rapidity of dictation, and greater speed and accuracy

The GARDE.NING Co.

Ourwiifl Flowers

are very beautiful and the best of them are
well worth cuUivaliug; but the wild flowers
of other cliraes are often quite as charming.
The right thing to do is to get the best hardy
perennials from all hardy climates. It will
pay you to send a stamp for my catalogoie
containing a fine assortment of the best, such
as I grow successfully here in cold Vermont.
Address

F. H. HORSFORD, Charlotte, Vt.

/££^^ ____^

Daffodil s^^
Bulbs. ^^

EMPEROR 30c $3^00

EMPRESS 2SC 2.50

SIR WATKIN 2SC 2.50

HORSFIELDI 20c 2.00

HENRY IRVING ..... 12c 1.00

ARD RIQH 10c 1.00

PRINCEPS .Sc .75

TRUMPET MAJOR sc .50

Also three varietiesofPoeticus Narcissus learlv,
medium and late). -JO cents per dozen; $1.00 per 100.
One dozen of each 50 cents.

Alba Plena, a double Poeticus; late, fragrant,
beautiful. Nearly always in bloom here on Dec-
oration Day. 25 cents per dozen; $1.2.5 per 100.

These are all of my own growing, and are supe-
rior to imported bulbs. They will be mailed at
these prices until the middle of October. Much
lower when ordered in large quantities by express.
Sets at half pr ce.

M. CRAWFORD,

^te— ___CUYAHOQA FALLS, O.

y

U\v:tnt -nil.' BULBS l'> bloom in the
h.Mi- till- xMiii. I ilh llMwera th.1t take
ciirir.f Ihciii-. 1\.~ :iii<l l>l',iim aiflihou'^^
1u-;,iit I., -rll >.,u y..ur bulbs, for 1 sell
Extra Large, Strong ones, at sur-
,.,,., ,n,i,, LOW PRICES.
I have some Bulbs WAITING to be
mailed to You FREE. iN'-t >hup\y

poshni^ ;i.., (.,;■ /,7 7./;\lrc.' ^«.. 1 Mrrei,/
ymi, . ,Hk of ajicstalwill briu^

you ■, , tr.il.d c.-italo-u.-. li"i,l

bxiii /.■' ' '. If money is short

you can get Bu I bs without. IttilNym
FjMiw. >.n.l that |iM.tal ijo-wor.V(.u'llforL-.'t it.

• GARDENING.

29

100

HYACINTHS

— From Seed—

FOR 10 CENTS

ANOTHER BARG/

BLOO.MINQTONiPhot

Ureenhouses.

Trees ^9 Plants

We offer a lartjo and fine stock of everj- description

Koses, ViiieM, Small Fruits, Heilc'e I'lanta!
Fruit and Forest Tree .Seedlings. Priced
Catalogue mailed "ree. Established 1852.

PHOENIX NURSERY COMPANY,

(Sue. to Sidney Tuttle & Co.) Bloomlngton, HI.

When you wnte to any of the advertis-
ers in this paper please say that you saw
the advertisetnent in Gardenixc'

PLANT INTELLIGENTLY,

And with Profit and Satisfaction.

Consult our Catalogues, and Plans and Suggestions for Planting. Expert advice
often saves hundreds of dollars in landscape work, and it's yours for the asking.
We devote the greater part of 250 acres to all that is rate and unique, in

TREES, EVERGREENS, ROSES, SHRUBS.

Rhododendrons, Azaleas, and Hardy Herbaceous PInnt" —

And our Catalogues otYer many hardy and valuable plants not to be found in
other collections. We offer Holland Bulbs of superior quality, at lowest prices

Note our offers of the famous new Roses, Crimson Rambler and Rosa Dawsonii.

THE SHADY HILL NURSERY CO.,

— CAMBRIDGE, MASS.

>^ f PO'TGROWNcSTRAWBERRIES.O

\VJ ' /■ . X P^"vVj Yield a crop of largest, finest berries

)=J -J-*il^^^^'y^fi^.jfJ_^, tror.lhs^rter planting. Sure to live in
S.,A '-' ~ ■ "-" - '■ weather.

I'ffj HENRY WARD BEECHER and MARY, the two finest Strawberri

(^( offered. Marshall, Dayton, Iowa Beauty, Timbrel], Shuckless

ml other valuable novelties. All the good old sorts. Everything
^W\ An illustrated Pamphlet giving full descriptions and complete

IJ^ cultivation mailed free.

IUQIIAIUQ BULBS'"''*''^"' "'"'" ^^^ ""'■'' ^''"""^ FLOWERING.
UatJilomic

Tulips, Crocu

" Ellwanger d, Barry, >wr

THE WATER GARDENS.

Vi.torin KcKla and V. Kandi , Euryale
fero.v. Nelumbiunis in variety. Hardy and
Tr..nieal Water Lilies ill all oolors.

Nymphieu Zanzlbarensls (true Koyal purple lly),
S2.60 each. N. (ilRantea (choicest blue In cultivation).

al at the World s Kalr, K 50
each. N. Trlckerll. new, an unsurpassed and most de-
sirable nlKht-bloomlng var.. io each. Other
Bee cataloKUf. WM. TRICKER & CO., Clillon, N.

Superb Pansies.

My ■RAINBOW MIXTURE" is a combina-
tion of the ver>' best strains in existence,
and cannot fail to ^ve satisfaction. Stocky
young plants $1.00 per 100, Iree by mail.

GEORGE CREIGHTON,

. . . Poughkeepsie, N. Y.

30

GARDENING.

Oct. /,

Publisher's Department.

WHAT SUBSCRIBERS SflY.

Your publication is a necessity now
t(j every well appointed library table
where horticulture and floriculture hold
sway. The excellent good sense shown in
the conduct of the journal warrants praise
for the past and good omens for the
future. J. ER.iSTUs Lester.

Vice-President Am. Pomological Society
Rhode Island.

I AM VERY much pleased with the paper
especially so with its frankness and
honesty. W. H. C.

Mass.

I AM a warm admirer of Garukxi.ng.
is always meaty. F. H. J.

Lancaster, N. Y.

P. C. of this state whom I recommended
to subscribe to Gardening in the spring,
was here to-day, and said he wished to
thank me for telling him about Garden-
ing and said further, that from many a
single article he had gained more benefit
than the 3'ear's subscription would pay
for. .\nd he means this.

Joseph Meehan.

Germantown, Philadelphia, Sept. 3, '94-.

In Tie English Flower Garden, Mr.
Robinson not only tells one how to raise
plants (in England); but he describes
them so attractively that you want to
raise them. Gardening does this too; and
that is one reason why I like it so well.

Amherst, Mass. Anso.n D. Morse.

We have enjoyed it so much that we
cannot do without it. It is not a collec-
tion of letters from people who don't
know any more than ourselves, but every
article is interesting in itself and a help.

Malone, N. Y. M. E. M.

I would not fail receiving Gardening,
as all mv success with plants is due to its
instructions. Mrs. T. H. C.

.Xaugatuck, Cnnn.

Nurserymen and Florists

should have our new Trade List
for Autumn 1S94. Contains one
of the largest and finest assort-

THf

: WM. H. MOON CO.,

Morrisville,

Pa.

ftd i.i

J?

u-J S^-l

cd

jiMfl

^- ?2 a

^s

\^

i=i; «=«"" =

u4

1^

u-Jb^I

i t«5

p

r.

1

o

m

^^Sg^

^

im

p=^ a-i

!/3

si-i

# — < o £

^

m

^ ^ 1^

^

wrltl

nil menlDn Gardcnlnii.

HORTICULTURAL BOOKS.

We can supply any of the following books, postpaid,
at the prices given.

How TO Grow Cut Flowers (Hunt).
—The only book on the subject. It is a
thoroughly reliable work by an eminenth'
successful practical florist. Illustrated,
$2.00.

Greenhousc Co.nstruction (Taft).— It
tells the whole storj- about how to build,
and heat a greenhouse, be it large or
small, and that too in a plain, easily un-
derstood, practical wav. It has 11 S
illustrations, $1.50.

Bulbs and Tuberous Rooted Plants
(Allen).— Over 300 pages and 75 illustra-
tions. A new work by a specialist in this
line. Tells about lilies, cannas, dahUas,
hyacinths, tulips; and all manner of bulbs
and how to grow them indoors and out-
sides, summer and winter. $2.00.

Mushrooms: How to Grow Thkm
(Falconer). — The only American book on
the subject, 29 illustrations. Written by
a practical mushroom grower who tells
the whole story so tersely and plainly
that a child can understand it. This book
has increased mushroom growing in this
countrv- three fold in three years. $1.50.

Success IN Market Gardening (Raw-
son). — Written bj' one of the most promi-
nent and successful market gardeners in
the country, and who has the largest
glasshouses for forcing vegetables for
market in America. Outdoor and indoor
crops are treated. Illustrated, $1.00.

The Rose (Ellwauger).— The standard
work on roses in this country and written
from a field affording the widest experi-
ence in practical knowledge and opportu-
nities for comparison, and where every
variety of rose ever introduced is or has
been grown. $1.25.

Volume lof Gardening.— Bound in half
leather, 39 3 pages, beautifully illustrated,

The Propagation of Plants (Fuller).
—An illustrated book of about 350 pages.
It tells us how to propagate all manner
of plants, hardy and tender from an oak
to a geranium, and describes every pro-
cess-grafting, budding, cuttings, seed
sowing, etc , with every manipulation
])crtaining to the subject It is the voice
of practical experience, by one of the most
brilliant horticulturists living. $1.50.

Manures (Sempers).— Over 200 pages;
illustrated. It tells all about artificial,
farmyard and other manures, what they
are and what they are good for, the dif-
ferent manures for the difi"erent crops and
the different soils, how to apply them,
and how much to use and all in such a
])lain way that no one can misunderstand
it. The author is an active, practical,
horticultural chemist. 50 cents.

Dictionary ok Gardening (Nicholson).
— .\n inimitable work. An encyclopaedia
of horticulture. It is the ready book of
reference for all cultivated plants, includ-
ing the most obscure genera and species
as well as the most familiar. It is stand-
ard authority on nomenclature. .\n Eng
lish work but as much appreciated here
as in Europe. Four volumes. $20.00.

Fruits and Fruit Trees of America
(Downing). $5.00.

Fruit Garden (BaiTy). $2.00.

American Fruit Culturist (Thomas I.

5^2.00.

Small Fruit Culturist (Fuller). $1.50.

Gardening for Profit (Henderson).
2.00.

Practica Floriculture (Henderson).
$1.50.

On the Rose (Parsons I $1.00.

Truck Fanning at the South (Oemler).
$1.50.

Window Flower Garden (Heinrich).75c.

Ornamental Gardening (Long). $2.00-

We are prepared to furnish any other book on any horticultural subject.
Please mention what you wish to get in this line.

... THE GARDENING CO.. Monoii BuiKlinQ. GliicaQO.

The practical value of
Meeh.\ns' Monthly is
now fully recognized by
devotees of Wild "'
and general garden:
i'o lye

PhiladelphH

Meehans'

Monthly,

; of the best of its
-Boston Herald.

A inagazine devoted to Wild Flowers and the higher brandies of General Gardening and
Horticulture. Conducted by THOMAS MEEHAN, formerly Editor of the "Garden-
ers" Monthly" and the "Native Flowers and Ferns of the United States."

Meehans' Monthly is especially addressed to lovers of Wild Flowers, though in a con-
densed form, it appeals to every student of botany and to those fond of horticulture
in all its branches. It is not a work catering to an idle hour and then to be thrown
aside. As a volume lor the library it is equal to the best works on botanical and gen-
eral horticultural subjects, and as such, it has a value far beyond the usual monthly
magazines.

Each issue contains a beautifully executed colored lithograph, prepared by L. Prang & Co.
of a wild flower of the United States and two pages of descriptive text, fourteen pages
of general botanical and horticultural literature, and illustrated throughout with half-
tone and wood cut engravings.

Subscription Price, $2.00 per year; $1.00 tor 6 months. Samples copies tree. In
chib with Gardk.nim, tor one rear, tor $3.25.

THOHAS HEEHAN & SONS, Publishers,

.... QERHANTOWN, Philadelpia, Pa.

"i'ou will benefit Gardening by men-
tioning it every time you write an
advertiser in these columns.

till KngUsh MISHKOO.M
and reliable. Sample brick
' Mushrooms, free by

, JI.UO: lOUlbi
iAUDlNKR i
iKl Market St

.J8 00.
CO.. S(
I'hlladelpbbi

iS94-

GARDENING.

31

HITCHINQS & CO.

|-Hti.hlisli.(l r.o v.aiB.

Horticultural Architects and Builders

And Largest M;iiiiita«tiirfrg ol

ORbLNHOtSn HEATING AND VENTILATINO APPARATl'5

i^M'

^

liSiiiHL....

Palm Hous
1 01 IJ < *\T^

cli. LrttteJ

Jill I Xrchil
liplLtt. »itll
\1 \I

.233 Mercer Street, NEW YORK CITY.
H. n. HOOKER COnPANY,

. . 57 and 59 West Randolph Street, CHICAGO,

GLASS FOR GREENHOUSES.^^

Plate, Window and Art Glass, Paints, Oils, Etc.

Announcement to Florists..

We desire to n

... The Syr.

and Conrad Breltschwe
meet the ffrowlnE dema

5n of the firm of Slptle, Dopffel & Co.. and to Introduce to the trad
ERY Cu which will be under the manaiiement of William Oopfft
siness will be conducted as heretofore, except on a larger scale t

; accordingly enlarged our plant and capacity and w

^ largest order on ''^ -— <— ^"- >--*-"* • -

I most servlceabfe flower pote

,he market, and assuring you of
of your patronage In the belief
ner satisfactory to all.

Intention to lead In further improvements we solicit
n supply just what Is needed at a price and '- ■
Send for price list and samples and we know you will give uauu <jiuci

SYRACUSE POTTERY CO.. Office 403 N. Salina St., SYRACUSE, N. Y

THE FLAT TOP TYPE.

Devine Boiler Works,

OKHCK;

69 Dearborn St., CHICAdO, U. S. A.

Standard Ventilating Machinery

KKCEIVED

ALL

BEST

AWARDS

LAST

FOUR

YEARS.

Opens sash

same height

far end.

^'> DREER'S

GARDEN SEEDS

WATER

For Your

GREEN HOUSE,

ROSE HOUSE,

NURSERY,

Conservatory, Lawn

House.Carden, Stock

oranyotherpurpose. HllT-AIR

Send for Illustrated Catalogue IIUI Mill

delamat'er-rider AND PUMPING

DeLAMATER-ERICSSON i-ypiijr

PUMPING tNblNt.
ENGINE.

»ate'that"Bchilil"'anrunthe[n They

streams or any k.ud of well. Thev g

can be arranged for any kind of fuel S

Capacity 1.500 to 30.000 gallons "=
of water a day. according to size.

The De Lamater Iron Works,

Standard Flower Pots.

10 percent, off for cash with order Special dis-
count on 1 aree orders. We carry a large stools on
hand of good strontj; pots.
PRICE LIST OF STANDARD POTS, any number:
liVlneh pots, per 1000 » 3.00 tHnch pots, per lOOOSB.

.25 7
:t.50 8

60.

Ad.iress HILFINGER BROS. POTTERY,

.... FORT EDWARD, N. Y.

August Rolker & Sons, LW & 13S W. 24th St., New York

OR CHIDS , -m

12 Best free growing and profuse flow-
ering Orchids for amateurs, for $10.00.
Wn. MATHEWS, Utica, N. Y.

Henry A. Dreer,

ij Chestnut St. Phila.

w

rite for a Copy of
the "Illustrator,"

A montlily journal issued by
5 tlie largest engraving house
in the United States. . .

J. MANZ & CO.

183, 185, 187 Honroe Street,

. . CHICAGO.

EnKtavIng by all Processes .^^^^

32

GARDENING.

Oct. /,

Planting
Plans

should be made during the Fall and
Winter and the planting done the fol-
lowing Spring

J. Wilkinson Elliott,

Landscape Architect,
Horticultural Buyers' Agent,

Pittsburg, Pa.

Detailed Planting Plans with specifica-
tions furnished at moderate cost. Trees,
Shrubs and Plants supplied my cus-
tomers at a saving of 25 to 50 per cent,
from usual prices.

Pamphlet and Price List sent on

application

New.RareandBeaulituI Plants

STROBILANTHES DYERIANUS. This is the
most valuable novelty that has been intro-
duced for years. For betiding issuperiorto the
finest coleus; withstands hot sun and dry
weather better.

A large collection of rare hothouse and green-
house plants, carefully grown, at low rates.

ORCHIDS— A very extensive stock; East Indian,
Mexican, Central and South American. &c.

RARE AND BEAUTIFUL EVERGREENS,

ORNAMENTAL TREES. SHRUBS, &c.

Pv^ONIES— A large collection of the finest in cul-
tivation. Hardy Perennials, Phloxes. Japan-
ese Iris. Roses, Clematis, etc. New and Stand-
ard Fruits, etc.

«S~Catalogues on application.

JOHN SAUL. Washington, D. C.

FLOWER POTS.

. STANDARD •

You will make a mistake if you place your
orders for flower pots this Fall without
first receiving our estimates for same.
Our plant is now the Largest in the World.
Our stock unlimited. Our goods equaled
by none. . . .

A. H. HEWS & CO.,

North Cambridge, Mass.

JOHN G. M0NIN6ER CO.

WRITE
FOR
CATLG.

Cypress
Qreen=House
2^Y Construction
3o°7 Material.

Hawthorne Ave., ChlcagO, 111.

Fine Flowers

are raised frojii fine Bulbs and good
reliable Seed. We furnish these. Send
for our Fall Hulb Calalogue. Address

August Rolker & Sons,

»ITCHER & MANDA.

Special inducements are being offered i
greenhouse and ouldoor plants of every d
scriptiou and very high quality, at the lowe
prices ever known. Such an opportunity i
secure bargains seldom occurs.

Write us your requirements and we wi

^ofc

United States Nurseries,

SHORT HILLS.

When wrltlnK mention GardenlnK-

A R05E HEDGE . . .

Is a most beautiful object, and now is the time to plant it, as probably never again will the
same quality of plants be offered at so low a figure.

The above cut shows a block of Madame Plantier Roses that are three years old.
They have been root pruned and sheared (the picture was taken during the process of
shearing), and will make a fine show as soon as transplanted. Madame Plantier is espe-
cially adapted to hedges, as it is the hardiest of roses, gives a most abundant crop of
beautiful white flowers, and stands pruning as well as a California Privet.

Price, boxed and delivered at any freiglit house or Express office in
Rochester, $9.00 per 100; $75.00 per 1000.

N. B. — The plants should be set twelve to fifteen inches apart to produce the quickest
results, though if set eighteen inches apart they will fill up any gaps in the course of a
year or two.

W. S. LITTLE & CO.,

Commercial Nurseries.

.ROCHESTER, N. Y.

LORD & BURNHAM CO.,
Horticultural Architects ^p Builders,

STEAM AND HOT WATER HEATING ENGINEERS.

rlang and estimates furnished on applicatiun

LORD & BURNHAM CO.,

Irvin^on=on=Hudson, N. Y.

ORNAHENTAL TREES
and SHRUBS . . .

Specimen Plants for Lawns and Cem-
eteries. Send for Catalogue.
SAnUEL C. MOON,

• • Morrisville, Bucks Co., Pa.

CANNAS.

-Mme. Crozy, J. D. Cabos, Alphonse
Itoiivier, 1*. AlMrquant. Captain P. de
Suzzoiil, Pres. Carnot, (iiistave Senne-
holz, KxplorateiirCrampbel, H. A.Dreer.
Th*^ Garden. Comte H. de ChoiseuL
(;e«»nroy St. Hilaire. One of each for $3.00.

PROBST BROS. FLORAL CO.,

1017 Broadway. KANSAS CITY. MO.

O r^.T

LILY POND OF MR E MAYER BEAVER

Aquatics.

MY POND LILIES, AND ilOW I GROW TflEM.

There are few people who know how
much tnjoyment can be got from a lily
pond, and it is hoped that this brief de-
scription may induce others to try the ex-
jieriment as the writer did.

Perhaps a few words ought to be said
in the first place about expense, because
there stems to be a general id. a that to
build and stock a lily pond is very expen-
sive; a few figures will dispel this idea.

The pond first built had an area of 300
square feet and was in the form of a
crescent, its walls are four and a half
inches thick with bricks laid in common
cement (two parts sand and one of
cement). As the bottom ofit was clay
no bncks were laid there, but a coat of
cement (two of sand and one of cement)
covered the clay about one-fourth or
three-eighths inch thick. The bricks on
the sides were plastered about one-eighth
inch thick with a mixture of one half

Portland cement and one-half sand, also
on the bottom, and the pond never
showed any symptoms of leaking. Dur-
ing the winter, however, the ice very
slightly moved the bricks down to the ice
line, and when the spring came the pond
leaked and I could not find the cause till
I let the water out, and then f lund that
there was a minute crack all the way
round, but this was readily stopped by
applying a thin coat of pure cement with
a whitewash brush. The pond is two
feet deep. As to bricks, inferior paving
bricks were used which cost $4 per thou-
sand; they were rough of course but the
lace being covered with cement this did
no harm, on the contrary, the irregxilar
surface gave the cement a better chance
of holding. These suggestions when the
fact is taken into consideration that all
the work is oi:t of sight ought to be an
encouragement for the enthusiastic ama
teur to build his own pond, and if he has
never laid brick before possibly the top
course might not come very even, but if
such is the case a few rocks laid carelessly
over the edge of the pond will hide this
defect and very materially add to the
beauty of the pond.

As to the best kind of plants to place

along the edges: I find that large-leaved
cannas on the north side, as the sun must
have full sway all the time possible, iris
and tall growing plants add much to the
beaut3', and on the south side trailing
vines along the edges look well. Proba-
bly the outside adornment of the pond
should be left to each person's individual
taste.

To connect the pond with one of the
house conductors is the best source of
water supply, but hj-drant water does
very well. In my two ponis I grow the
following varieties of lilies and other
aquatic plants:

TENDER.

Nymphsea Zanziharensis.

Mymphxa Zanziharensis var. itzurea.

Nymphiea Devoniensis.

Nywphasa dent at n.

Nywpbsea gracilis.

Two varieties of wat. r liyacinth ( Eich-
hornia).

Water poppy (Limnocharis).

Parrot's feather (Myriophyllum).

Egyptian paper reed {Papyrus nnti-
quorum).

HARDY.
Nymphsea alba candidissima.

34

GARDENING.

Oct. 15,

Nympbsea albida Marliacea.
Nywpbaea cbromatella Marliacea.
Nympbsea odorata.
Nywpbiea odorata rosea.
Nympbiea odorata gigaiitea.
Nympbsea odorata sulphurea.
Nympbsea pygmwa.
Nympbsea tuberosa.
Nelumbium luteum.
Nelumbium speciosum.
Nelumbium speciosum msciiin.
Water ranunculus.

The soil to grow lilies in is a soniewhct
difficult subject for an amateur to inform
any person on intelligently, because
among professional florists there seems
to be a great diversity of opinions, for in-
stance, the writer had a friend who was
one of the principal gardeners in Kiw
Gardens, England; his advice was use no
manure, but if any, "old asthe hills." One
of our specialists in his catalogue says
use at least one-half well rotted manure,
and the third says thereisone great point
in the successful raising of water lilies,
and that is to use at least one-half fresh
cow manure. In regard to this last ad-
vice, the writer has seen many collections
of water lilies, but none that grew so
luxuriantly as this. In a few words, the
srm and substance of the matter is this,
that water lilies will stand a great deal
of abuse and still do well, because each
one seems to be growing his lilies in his
own method.

I have done very well by using one-half
good rich strong earth, one-half rotted
cow manure and about one pound bone
meal to the wheelbarrowful, this seems
to grow anj' aquatic except the lotus.
This j'car I have failed with my lotus, so
shall not pretend to give advice as to its
culture, but I am satisfied my trouble
was bj' adding too much clay in my mixt-
ure, which I did as directed. All the ten-
der varieties I have given the list of are
profuse bloomers except N. Zanzibarensis
(the true purple). It blooms well but not
as freely as N. Zanzibarensis azurea.

Of the hardy kinds nothing blooms
moi-e freely than A' cbromatella Mar-
liacea, in fact all the varieties I have
named bloom freely except A', odorata.
the common white lily; whether my roots
are not what they ought to be or whatis
the matter I can not say, anyhow they
are very shy bloomers and not worth
room ill the pond.

My boxes for holding the soil the lilies
are planted in are principally one foot
deep and two feet square, which i.s I be-
lieve a good size, but I put one N. dentata
and one AT. Devonieiisis in a box one foot
deep and four feet square and I got larger
and more blooms.

In the winter time I siin])lv leave the
boxes with tlie hardy r.)Ols in in llR-|)(in(l
and cover the pcmd overwith boards and
straw on the top of Ihem and then cover
the whole thing with pine boughs, which
avoids the unsightly appearance the
straw would make.

The tender varieties are treated differ-
ently when fall comes, take the tubers
(they look like a hickory nut) that are
found clinging to the roots of A^ Ucroii-
iensis, N. dentata and A'. Zanzibarensis
and put them in sand and keep them not
under G0° in water; then start the ph.nls
in the greenhouse about February or
March. The other tender varieties I
raise from seed. One or two dozen gold
fish and some common sim fish in the
pond will keep down green scum and
mosquitoes. K. M.

Beaver I"all», Pa.

how to keep Nympbsea odorata over
winter, but forgets to tell us whether it
has been grown in a tub or planted out in
a pond. If in a tub, pour the water off
and take the tub with thecontents undis-
turbed into a cool cellar. The lily is per-
fectlj' hardy under water providing ice
doesn't form deep enough to reach the
crowns.

Trees and 5hrubs.

MflGNOLIfl UMBRELLA.

I mail you to-day a seed vessel of the
Magnolia umbrella that grows here in the
coves of the mountains. [We received it
in good condition. These cone-like fruits
when ripe, and their coral berry-like seeds
handing from them by extensile threads
are very beautiful and interesting, and a
feature of the magnolias better known in
the South thanintheNorth.— Ed.] I have
a beautiful tree of it in my yard, that was
transplanted by me some 15 years ago
fiom the woods. It changes appearance
imder cultivation very much. The leaves
are no longer so very large, but large
enough, the same applies to the blossoms.
But I have ver^' many more leaves and
blossoms on my tree than you see on
them in their wild state, these from being
crowded and shaded the leaves are at the
ends of a few branches, immense leaves
surrounding one very large blossom; now
on my tree, which branches freely close to
the ground there are a great many
branches and all are leafy and most of
them with a blossom. The "cucumber"
or fruit is very pretty when it first opens,
its seeds look like coral and each one is
suspended b}- a finethread, E. 0. N.

Tracv Citv, Tenn.

TREES AND SflRUBS.

Except in rather mild localities and
sheltered parts it may be well to stop
planting evergreens as pines, firs, spruces,
arbor vitaes, rhododendrons and the like
now till next spring. But as regards
transplanting arbor vitjes, yews, box, or
other heavy rooting evergreens from one
part of the garden to another, it may be
done yet with perfect success providing it
is done carefulh' and thej' are well shel-
tered from winds. But go ahead planting
diciduous trees and shrubs. And remem-
ber that the keynote of success is cut
them hard in at planting time and plant
firmly.

Go over your young trees and see to it
that those that need it are securelv staked,
and that there is a piece of old rubber
hose, burlap, or other soft material be-
tween the string and the tree to keep the
tie from cutting in to the bark. Examine
all old ties and if you find any that are
too tight cut thtm, and replace with a
fresh string. .\iid be very particular
about your labels on young trees; the
labels are generally fastened with wire
which cuts into the wood very easily
causing much damage.

of lightened ear. h. Only one germinated.
By August 1 it had grown 16 inches, but
has grown none since, and that seems to
me early in the season to stop growth.
Shall I keep it in the cold frame over
winter?"

Yes, winter it in the frame and plant it
out in the spring. If the other seeds are
not rotten they may germinate next
spring. Had you sowed the seeds in a
box and plunged this to its brim in a cold
frame, keeping them ordinarily moist, and
mulching them to prevent the ground
drying out too fast, and in winter cover
the frame to exclude hard frost, most of
them, probably would have germinated
in spring.

tiARDy SPIRAEAS IN MINNESOTA.

(;. p. J., Red Wing, asks: "What other
spirjeas would thrive under the samecon-
ditions as the Van Houttei, bearing as
that does Minnesota's winter's cold and
summer's dryness?"

Besides S. Van Houttei, S. sorbifolia, S.
callosa, S. crataegitolia, S. Douglasi, S.
opulifolia aurea, S. ohovata, S. Billardii
and S. bypericifolia will all do well at Red
Wing. Samuel B. Gree.n'.

Experiment .Station, University 01
Minnesota.

Kekim:

XaNTIIOCERAS SORItlFOl.IA I-KO.M SKl;[i
(This is the beautiful hardv little tree
illuslr.-ileij ni Cakiiiimn., Mav 15, 1894).
J.J.I... M,lllM,H,k, X. \.,wnt"cs: "Of the
dozen -iccls v.Mi kindly s< nt me last year,
six WLic planLcci at once in the gVecn-
house, and they all rotted. I planted the
other six in a box of dry sand, burying it
below frost line, and took them up in
April and found them healthv. Then I
planted them in a frame with some Inches

.V.MPEi.oi'sis Veitchii, Pi.ne Borers,
Wistaria, etc.— In answer to Mrs. A.M.
D , Cincinnati: The spray of vine sent is
not Ampelopsis Veitcbii at all.

Send us specimens of the pine tree borer
and its work that we may submit it for
accurate investigation. Many insects
prey upon pine trees, the larvae of the
timber-borer, Monobammus confusor be-
ing one of the worst.

Yes, both wistaria and woodbine will
grow well and bloom abundantly on the
north side of your house; in fact wood-
bine enjoys a slight shade.

The Flower Garden.

T«E FLOWER GARDEN.

It is now the 9th of October, but we
have had no frost at Dosoris yet. The
grass on the lawns is verj' thick and green
the trees are holding their leaves prettj'
well, and the garden is gay with many
flowers. In a sheltered nook the moun-
tain fleece is a snowbank of fragrance,
Maximilian's sunflower, a most beautiful
perennial species, is in its prime, and a
July sowing of the miniature (cucumeri-
tolius) sunflower is giving us man3' flow-
ers. The tall lilac colored Aster Tartari-
vus is in fine form, and Pitcher's salvia is
as blue as a delphinium. A second crop
of snap dragons is quite full, Chinese
liinks, single and double have lots of
bloom, and so have perennial gaillardias.
The Japanese toad lily (Tricyrtis) is full
of its dotted purplish flowers, and there
is agoodlyarray of second crop larkspur,
nidbeckias, and some other things, and
Siebold's sedum is beginning to open its
droo])ing heads.

Of annuals there is considerable glory
yet: Zinnias, marigolds, gaillardias, late
sown coreopsis, petunias, celosias, ver-
benas, balsams, nasturtiums, and some
others are gay enough. Scarlet salvia is
making a brilliant display, and cosmos
is beginning to open. Sweet alyssum and
mignonette will last with us even after
the frost comes. Single and double dah-

i8g4.

■ GARDENING.

35

THE NEW HARDY PINK, HER MAJESTY

lias are iu bloom, caiinas are on the wane
but still a fine show, Cape plumbago,
l)lue and white, are mats of bloom, ill-
smelling although lantanas are, they are
very brilliant in bloom at this time of the
year; vincas, white, red eye. and purple
are better now than before this, and
Asclepias nivea is one of our best sources
for cut flowers. Tuberous begonias are
grand, and Vernon shows how apt it is
for outdoor work. The gladioli we
planted iu July is giving us fine flowers,
and Iwpatiens Sultani is a carpet of
l)ioom in partial shade. White datura
l)ushes are drooping with trumpets,
affinis tobacco plant scents the atmos-
phere at night, and the California pop-
])ies (Eschscboltzia) are ablaze in the bor-
ders where they have naturalized them-
selves. .\nnual and perennial morning
glories brighten our forenoons, and the
moonflower is abundant at night. The
white form of Solarium jasminoidcs is
dripping with itselegantbunchcsof white
blossoms. .\nd the clumps of the yellow
flowered Hibiscus cbrysanthiis look like a
mass of hardy .shrubs in bloom.

But the first frost will destroy all the
tender (lowers and leaves us dependent
on the hardy ones as mignonette, alys-
sum, pansits, early chrysanthemums and
the like.

If you haven't yet saved all the .seeds
you want do so at once.

I ".el u]) and save all the tender bulbs as
gladioli, tuberoses, begonias, bessera,
Milla hillora. arums, oxalis, and the like,
also your canna and dahlia roots.

Clean up the beds and bordtrs. Don't
leave the frost killed plants in them all
winter.

October 10. We are now having a
severe east rain and wind storm, and
which has destroyed everything in the
way of outside flowers. But if we get
bright weather after this we shall have a

good many outdoor blossoms yet, such
as cosmos, mountain fleece, gaillardia, pot
marigolds, mignonette, and sweet alys-
sum. It is useless to try to save any of the
tender plants as cannas, dahlias, and the
like, better cut them over; dig them up
and get them stored past, and the ground
cleaned.

THE NEW FINKHER MflJESTY.

This is a gem among hardy flowtrs.
The plants are stocky, health^', and
hardy, and the flowers are pure white,
fragrant, and produced in great abund-
ance. Everj'body who appreciates beau-
tiful flowers in the garden, or cut flowers
in the house should grow it. Its large,
pure white blossoms coming in at a time
when flowers are in much demand must
make it the standard florists' pink in its
season.

I had a large stock of it last j-car grow-
ing in three places. One lot was in a cold
frame covered with sashes, and it came
into bloom the middle of May. .^n out-
door bed on a southern exposure, and
without anj' covering in winter cameinto
bloom with the other hardy pinks as
Alba Fimbriata, about the beginning of
June. The third belt was planted in a
shady place with a very light covering of
short horse manure during winter, and it
commenced to bloom about the end of
June. In this way I was able Lo cut
flowers from this pink for nearly three
months. I propagate from cuttings taken
in September. If these, as soon as rooted,
are planted nut they willmake nice bloom-
ing plants tlic fnllowing spring, and will
pay well for the little attention i)aid to
them.

The engraving is a good picture of this
pretty pink and was prepared bv Mr. \.
Blanc of this citv. C. EiSKi.i:.

Philadelphia.

NOTES FROM EOflNDflLE.

Achillea Ptarmica in its double form,
known as A. grandiflora, and The Pearl
are a perfect shtet of white. They are
gems for cutting. All through summer
and autumn they are a mine of floral
wealth. Planted in full sun, tlie_v grow
more upright than in partial shade,
where thej' assume the character of a
trailer.

Euphorbia corollata, the white spurge,
is now found in bloom quite frccpiently
by the roadside in rather dry positions,
but brought into the shrubbery border
for color effect or in the garden for cut-
ting purposes, it is very effective. Its
lasting qualities when cut and the grace-
ful open airiness im parted by its use to any
floral decoration, makes it almost indis-
pensable.

Galtonia candicans, generally cata-
logued as Hyacintbus candicans, with its
tall spikes of white bell shaped flowers, is
now passing out of bloom. It should be
planted in groups of three or five in
open spaces among the shrubbery. If
planted six inches deep, in well drained
soil and pi-otected b3' leaves or litter, it
will winter well, otherwise it is safest to
take it up in the fall.

Campanula Carpatbica in its type, the
blue, and its white variety, alha. are pro-
ducing a pleasing carpeting of green
foliage a few inches high, out of which
spring numerous wiry stems half a foot
high, each bearing its blue or white open
blossom. For borders or open places in a
new shrubbery belt, this plant is indispen-
sable. It will grow in partial shade ami
is very hardy.

P/a treof/oH^rand/florum is a handsome
species closely related to the campanidas
and which has reached us under many
aliases. By some it is catalogued as
Wahlenbergia and by others as Cam-

36

• GARDENING,

Oct.

panuJa. The cominou name is Chinese
bell flower, but it is indigenous to Japan
as well as China. My plants have been
in bloom since June 28, and are full of
promise yet. It is always good for a
month's continuous bloom. The flowers
two and one-half to three inches in diame-
ter at the tips of branches on stems three
feet high. The type is blue and there is a
variety with white flowers faintly pen-
cilled with blue.

Funkia ovata withspikes of lilac tinted
blooms is out of bloom, while F. stibcor-
data, the best of the genus, is throwing
up its scapes of sweet scented white flow-
ers. This is the white plantain day lily
so much admired. It should be planted in
partial shade, or the leaves will get sun
burned. In rich soil, if undisturbed, it
eventually forms a circular cushion of
broad overlapping leaves attractive even
when not in bloom.

Anthericum Liliago forms a graceful
grassy tuft of foliage six inches high, out
of which spring numerous stalks bearing
small six rayed star shaped flowers. It is
a graceful border plant.

Clematis Daridiana is opening its pale
blue flowers that are produced in axil-
lary whorls, making them a little awk-
ward for cutting. This belongs to the
non-climbing set and is preferable to C.
stans, which is somewhat similar in habit,
and will bloom later. Both are strong
growing, reaching a height of four or
more feet, and require staking.

Clematis integrifolia, a bush form reach-
ing a height of two ieet is still producing
a few blooms of its small dark blue re-
curved flowers. There is a hybrid form of
the above called Durandii, which departs
from the type in having five petals instead
of four and is larger and more flat in its
form, the flowers reaching three inches in
diameter and they are a rich blue color.
This plant attracted much attention on
the Wooded Island at the World's Fair
and is now blooming in my garden. Near
these plants are four more hybrids of
these plants having only four petals, but
they make a decided departurein coloring,
there being among them two shades of
pink and two of light blue. All the hybrids
require some support as they grow three
to four feet high.

Hemerocallis Thanhergii is valuable, in
that it produces its yellow lily like
flowers long after the H. ffava has
departed. It growsabout three feet high
and seems to be as hardy as any of the
genus.

Tunica SaxHraga is happy in producing
its numerous small fairy-like flowers of
a pinkish white color. It thrives in an
open sunny situation and makesan excel-
lent border, as it is dwarf in its habit.

Heuchera sanguinea in a grou]) of a
dozen plants will have some blooms
nearly all summer. The plant forms a
rounded low tuft of verdure, while the
deep red campanulate blos.sonis are pro-
duced in loose panicles a foot high. For
cutting they have no superior and they
last a very long time in water. To in-
crease stock of it I divide the old plants
in August. Each part will make a good
blooming plant next spring [Easily raised
from seed. — En.] Although a Mexican
plant it is hardy here with slight pro-
tection.

Achillea /Egyptica with its silvery
foliage is a good border or shrubbery
plant where such foliage is wanted. Its
rich yellow flowers in densely packed
terminal corymbs rise two or more feet.

Silphium laciniatum has tall stalks
bearing handsome yellow flower heads
and it presents a good appearance now,
when placed at the back of the borders or

among the shrubs. The plant is indigen-
ous, btit improves with cultivation.

Coreopsis lanceolata, when planted in
the wild garden and left to the ten-
der mercies ofchance,produceslarger,but
fewer flowers than under cultivation. I
am disappointed in this plant. Can it be
that I have a poor strain?

Digitalis ambigua is a yellow flowered
fox glove of perennial habit from Europe.
Scattered among D. purpurea it prolongs
the flowering period of this group. It
grows about three feet and is similar in
habit to the common form.

CBnothera Youngii, growing some
eighteen inches high, is freely producing
its bright yellow flowers. A mass of it
on the Wooded Island last summer was
pleasing.

Gaillardia aristata grandiiJora is a
coarse, rank growing perennial. Sprawl-
ing in its nature makes it difficult to
stake with neatness. The variety Tem-
pleana is more compact in manner of
growth and requires no support. The
flower heads of both are similar in size
and coloring, some three inches in diame-
ter and of a deep orange yellow with a
band of maroon, while thecenteris adark
brown. They are borne on long stems
and last well in a cut state.

One of the blazingstars(Liatrispjcnos-
tacbra) is a rather pleasing plant in a
mass, if one does not have to write its
specific name very often. Its tall cylindri-
cal spikes of small purple blooms will
remain a feature of the border for a long
time.

Verbascums: V. phlomoides and V.
olympivum are past. With me, this s a-
son , the former was the handsomest plant ,
one of the latter was over seven and one-
half feet high. These biennials are ver>-
decorative, but will only thrive when
standing in the open and having a plenty
of room.

Eryngium giganteum with its steel
blue stalks and bluish ovate flower heads
has been very fine. There are two forms
on the Wooded Island that are finer than
this species. One labeled E. purpureum
has a flower head three-fourths inch diame-
ter of a deep purple and very' attractive.
Another labeled E. Americanum has
larger and more finely cut lea\-es than
most of the species.

Belamcanda Chincnsis, but better
known as Pardanthus Chincnsis, has
proved perfectly hardy here, with ordi-
nary winter protection. Its peculiarly
spotted orange colored flowers are pro-
duced sparingly on iris-like stalks rising
to a height of four feet. They close at
night and eventually produce a seed so
like a blackberry that they are said to
deceive the birds. It is known as the
leopard lily, also blackberry lily, and is a
very interesting plant.

Echinacea purpurea has been very at-
tractive as a shrubljery plant; it was
picturesque in its effect. Its flower heads
are terminal, on long stiff" stalks some
three feet high. The blossoms are three
inches in diameter and the petals are
reflexed and rose colored with abrownish
center an inch in diameter. E. angusti-
folia docs not grow as high and has paler
colored flowers, and there is a white
form.

Callirhoe inrolucrata is a decumbent
poppy mallow that blooms all summer,
and is extremely useful in many situa-
tions. Planted as an tmdcr cover in the
shrubbery, or at the outer edge of a raised
rockery, it extends its rambling shoots
up and through low growing shrubs, and
opens its flowers in unexpected places. At
the base of my rockery is a handsome

sp(

)fthefer

edsM

Abov

it, among the rocks, is this mallow, which
has reached out and appropriated the
sumach for its support. Its bright crim-
son flowers, nearly two inches in diame-
ter, appearing among the lacinated
foliage, is novel and pleasing. In the
elevated soil of the rockery, subject to
frost from the sides, it is apt to perish,
but in the shrubbery it is hardy.

Geum coccineum is another constant
bloomer suitab e for a border plant. The
leafage forms a rather tufted mass some
eight inches high, producing its terminal
flowers on stems about twenty inches
long that are more graceful if allowed to
bend with their own weight in imitation
of a semi-trailer. The flowers on my
plants are semi-double, an inch in diame-
ter, bright scarlet with yellow stamens,
and although sent out under the above
name seems to be allied to G. Cheloense.

Dicentra e.v;m/a.— Although this species
can be classed among the flowers now in
bloom, its leaves are its chief charms.
They are as finely cut as a fern, and over-
lapping each other from a mound a loot
high of rather a light green and some-
what glaucous hue. For a border they
form a minature hedge clothed to the
ground. The flower stems arise above
the foliage and bear numerous drooping
reddish purple flowers, somewhat like the
old fashioned bleeding heart, to which it
is allied and which gives it the common
name of the Alleghany bleeding heart.

Lathyrus latifolius, the perennial pea,
can be kept in bloom if not allowed to
produce seed. The white form is the hand-
somest, producing on long stiff" stems
flowers of the purest white, and of more
substance and better keeping qualities
than its annual cousin the sweet pea. The
vine grows about four feet and looks well
if allowed to ramble overa brush support
or some low open branched shrub.

Aconitum Napellus, monkshood, with
its tall spikes of blue flowers is in its best
form, and is more at homein the shadiest
part of the shrubbery than almost any
species. It grows from five to six feet
high, and remains in bloom a long time.
Its companion ^.autumna/e is later in its
blooming and does not grow as tall.
These plants improve with age, and
should be kept outof reach of any liability
of children getting hold of their roots, as
they are a deadly poison. W. C. E.

WILD PLANTS IN BLOOM OCTOBER 3.

Asters and golden rods monopolize the
fields and woods at this time, making a
fine show. Coriifolius, prenanthoides
and patens are still crowded with flowers.
Others consist of surculosus, a violet pur-
ple, one found in wet pine barrens; lasvis,
smooth stemmed and with slender
branches beariuj blue flowers on their
ends, and concolor, found in pine barrens
and which has purplish blossoms. Be-
sides the golden rods named in previous
papers we have /lexicaulis, a lovely spe-
cies much like ca?s/a, and perhaps the best
of the late blooming ones; and serotina
and Canadensis, both from four to six
feet in height.

hi waste places the Jerusalem artichoke
(Hclianthus tuberosus) has found a home
and makes quite a display with its yellow
flowers, so too does //. doronico'ides in
the hedge rows. Near a railroad track
here I came on to a clump-of H. mollis, a
western species with hoary leaves and
bright golden yellow flowers.

For some time past the morning glor}-
(Pharbitis Nil) has been in bloom, and it
will keep it up till frost. Its pretty violet
blue flowers are seen among tall grass

GARDENING.

37

and low growing shrubs about which its
stems twin".

Among shrubs, the groundsel shrub
(liaccharis halimi/blia) is displaying its
white pappus on the fertile plants, and is
as showy as a shrub in flo wer. Witch-
hazel (Hamamelis Virgiw'ca) is opening
its yellow flowers, and they keep up one
after another long after i'rosty nights
come. I. M'kkhan.

Philadelphia.

SPRING FLOWERING BULBS IN THE CfllCflOO
PARKS.

Quite a feature is made of Dutch bulbs
at Lincoln Park, but the display is prac-
tically limited to tulips. A few hundred
bulbs of daffodils, narcissi, crocuses and
snowdrops are grown in clumps in the

borders of hardy perennials, but of tulips
30,000 are planted every tall, part of
them being bulbs matured, selected and
retained from theprevious year's growth,
and a part of them is bought fresh every
jear. They are used in ribbons and in
beds on the lawns bordering a driveway
that skirts the flower gardens near the
conservatories. Only five varieties are
used, viz., Yellow Prince, La Reine Vic-
toria, white; Rembrandt, crimson-scarlet;
Coleur Ponceau, crimson and white, and
Cottage Maid, rose and white. These all
bear single flowers, bloom together and
grow about the same height— Yellow
Prince being slightly taller than the others.

In arrangement the first consideration
is effectiveness from the driveway. To
this end the ribbon borders — consisting
of long sinuous lines of tulips outhned by
greensward — have a broad central band
of one variety edged by narrower bands
of another; as three or four rows of
Yellow Prince bordered on each side by
two rows of La Reine; or Rembrandt
edged with Coleur Ponceau; or Cottage
Maid and La Reine, etc., etc. In the beds
each design shows a distinct field of one
variety, while other varieties form a more
or less intricate pattern; the intention of
all the combinations being the production
of bold masses of color. The beds are
large, frequ.-ntly as much as 26 or 27 feet
in diameter, but similar designs can be
used on a smaller scale for small grounds.

The accompanj'ing diagrams show
some of the simpler designs, and to give
an idea of the i olor seen in the park beds
take Fig. 1 and let No. 1 stand for Y'ellow
Prince; No. 2 for Rembrandt; No. 3 for
La Reine, and No. 4 for Coleur Ponceau.
This makes red and white (No. 4-) the
field color which is, of course, the most
prominent, so, for the next bed Mr. Strom-
back would be likely not only to select a
different shape, but also a combination
that would give prominen e to some
other color. Fig. 2 will serve as an ex-
ample with No. 1 for either Cottage Maid

or Coleur Ponceau; No. 2, La Reine, and
No. 3, Rembrandt. Again, for variety in
both form and color, let Fig. 3 be made
up thus: No. 1 Y'ellow Prince, No. 2
Rembrandt, No. 3 La Reine, and No. ■!■
Cottage Maid. Of course each design is
capable of several color combinations
even though the number of varieties to
choose from seems small.

The trea* raent followed at the park is
to leave the bulbs as long as possible to
ripen in the ground (usually until June 3
or 4-); the seed pods are then cut off with
a sickle, and the bulbs, with the foliage
attached, are taken up and packed in
close rows in trenches in the greenhou.se
benches, and heeled in just as shrubs and
trees are temporarily preserved out of
doors. There they remain until thor-
oughly ripe, which condition is indicated
by the foliage turning yellow and detach-
ing readily from the bulb. In the latter
part of July they are ready to be taken
out of the trenches and are then treed
from foliage, old roots, bulblets and old
skins (the dry outer envelope). The
smooth, clean, fresh bulbs are then placed
in layers in trays or boxes only three or
four inches deep, and the boxes stored in
a cool, dry basement. The bulbs are
kept dry from the time they are taken
from the beds until they are returned to
them In removing the bulblets those
that are large enough, and firm enough
to promise a small flower the coming sea-
son are saved and planted in beds by
themselves, the rest are thrown away.

The first week in November the tulips
are planted six inches deep, and six inches
apart both ways, in ground that hasbem
carefully prepared and enriched, if neces-
sary, with a little well rotted manure.
After the ground is frozeli to a depth of
from four to five inches (and not before),
the beds are covered with about five
inches of strawy manure or litter. During
and after deep snows and in mild weather
the beds are examined and if the ground

method of treatment is a success is evi-
denced by a yearly tulip show that the
whole town goes out to see.
Chicago. F. C. Seavkv.

Fig. 2

begins to thaw the covering is drawn
aside, and put on again at the approach
of colder weather. But cold snaps are
carefully watched for while the covering
is off. Tht- theory and practice is to keep
the ground frozeii above the bulbs, and
to never allow it to freeze below them.
The covering is permanently removed the
latter part of March— a little cadier or
later according to the season.

Mr. Stromback docs not advocate leav-
ing tulip bulbs in the ground through the
summer unless in ground that receives no
moisture ■ xcept that supplied by nature.
He finds that the bulbs do not ripen prop-
erlv in ground that is watered to keep up
the growth of summer plants, and when
the beds are cov. red with sod that must
be kept green by watering the results
prove just as unsatislactory. That his

CROZr CflNNfl SEEDLINGS,

In Gakde.ni.ng, of ,\ugust 15, page 388,
in "Cannas at the White House," the
writer speaks of seedlings about to be in-
troduced, and says they lack the golden
edging so much prized in the Madame
Crozy. This has suggested to me report-
ing to you something of my first experi-
ence in raising cannas from seed. Last
spring I succeeded in starting about two
dozen in a hotbed. After planting them
out, a long period of cold and wet de-
stroyed all but half a dozen. Two of
them have bloomed and one of them has
the same golden edgingthat the Madame

Crozy has. It has a darker color than
Crozy, however, and to ray eye is very
fine, but whether or not the best judges
would pronounce it better in any respect
to that popular canna, I cannot tell.

Niagara Falls. H. J. S.

[Madame Crozy canna bears seed in
moderate plenty, and a considerable per-
centage of the seedlings closely resemble
the parent; some may differ in the scarlet
hue, others in the deepness of the yellow
marking, and so on, but altogether, from
among the thousands of children born to
herduring the last three years, we have
not seen anything more indispensable
than the grand old Madame herself But
some of her progeny are lovely. — Ed.]

MY FLOWER GARDEN IN NEBRASKA.

During the summer that is just past we
have had the most windy and dry, hot
weather we ever had during my residence
here of twenty-one years, and I have had
geraniums, dahlias, phlox, petunias, pan-
sies, zinnias, pinks, verbrnas and carna-
tions continuously in bloom, also gladi-
olus and lilies in their season, roses almost
every month, and now (Sept. 26) have
cannas, dahlias and tuberoses now in full
bloom, and cosmos budding.

I prepared my beds by removing the
earth to the depth of two feet and then
filling in with thoroughly rotted garden
black soil, sand and well rotted stable
manure.

In the lily bed I put at the bottom six
inches deep of broken brick, stone and
coal a«h-s, and on top of this six inches
of well rotted stable manure, and filled
up with good soil mixed with sand. As
soon as the dry spell set in I mulched
everything with fine fresh cut grass and
watered thoroughly every few days

I shall plant out a good number of lilies
and other bulbs for next spring and sum-
mer flowering. C. W. P.

Shicklcv. Neb.

38

• • GARDENING.

Oct. 15,

ROStS, PBRENNlflLS, NARCISSUS, GLAD-
IOLUS.

F. X. B.. Indiana, asks abont;

1. Roses. The young canes in my bed
of H. P. roses are five and six feet long,
too long to look well. Could they not be
kept at a uniform height of three feet, and
if so, when should the cutting have been
done? What would be the result on the
crop of fall roses?

2. Tell us about mountain fleece.

3. When should pots of paper white
narcissus be brought up for Christmas
bloom?

-t. Eupatorhiw ageratoides. — Ought
you not to have added it to your list of
hardy perennials f )r blooming"in Septem-
ber (see page 404)? It has been very
beautiful with me for the past ten days,
and is indispensable for mixing with the
fall flowers in bouquets and vases.

5. Gladioli.— Mine have been glorious
in spite of the dry weather, and one
dozen of mixed Childsii were so fu I that
I want some named ones.

1. Cut the young shoots back two-
thirds their length after they have done
blooming in June, this will induce them to
throw out two or more middle sized
branches to the stem instead of one long
shoot, and these will bloom nicelv in fall.
But further summer pruning of "healthy
wood is not to be recommended as it in-
duces the lower wood buds that should
be reserved for next spring's work, to
break into growth. Old, scraggy and
decaying or enfeebled wood, however,
should be cut out at any time, and so
late as this you may shorten the shoots
to three feet without danger of starting
the lower eyes.

2. It is a hardy herbaceous perennial
a native of the Himalayas, of vigorous
grow'th, and it bears a great prolusion of
deliciously scented fleecy flowers from the
end of September through October. Frost
destroys the flowers, hence the plant,
although most dfsirable inmildlocaHties,
is not fitted for open air culture where
frost comes before October. It loves rich
moist ground. Severe drouth defoliates
it in summer. When used as cut flowers
all the lai-ge leaves should be picked off.
else they will cause the sprays to wilt.

3. It depends altogether on how far
advanced they are in the cellar. We take
them in about three weeks before cutting
time. But if the plants are in a backward
condition, and your room is not a brisk
warm one, they may need four to five
weeks.

4. It is very good. We mentioned onlv
a few plants among the many available
ones.

."). That's right. There is no better
or more satisfactory plant for an
amateur to grow than gladiolus. Inbuv-
mg gladiolus bulbs let us give you 'a
point: Write— "send me big bulbs, by ex-
press, I'll pay the charges." Small orders
of gladiolus are generally sent bv mail.
The buyer thinks it is chcaperto getthem
this way, but yon cannot reasonably ex-
])ect that the florist is going to pr'epav
postage on heavy big bulbs if he can use
smallish ones. If you are willing to pay
the charges, however, the chances are he
will be very glad of the opportunity to
send your big bulbs to get rid of theiii.

Field MICK .\rE THE i,ii,ii:s.— I'. H. B.,
Philadelphia, "had a l;irge (|uantity of
Hly biflbs which I had planted amongmy
rhododendrons, eaten up by field mice.
How can I get ahead of the mice?"

Field mice work under cover onI\-. ,\
light mulch of straw, hay, or litter of anv

sort, a sole of old grasson the ground, or
the like is paradise to them. They don't
like tree leaves so much. In mulching
your rhododendron bed don't use any of
these materials, but, instead use a good
coating of well wetted, half rotted leaves,
and tread it down firm about the plants.
Old well-pulverized muck too woifld be
good. But, for the hardier varieties, in
the neighborhood of Philadelphia you do
not really need a mulching.

Growing Bulbs in W.\shinoton State.
— H. S. B., Spokane, asks us: "Do you
think it would be possible to grow hya-
cinths, tulips, and other bulbs here for
profit? My soil is a rich, black, sandy
loam, irrigated and it grows celery to
perfection. If so when should the bulbs
be planted?"

If your land and other conditions are
favorable we believe you can grow good
. tulips, lilies, narcissi, alliums, erythro-
niums, and many miscellaneous bulbs,
but we are not so sure about hyacinths.
While the soil is of great consideration,
the proper manipulation of the crop is
of more importance. And before you can
make a living at it you must liave the
countenance of the market, you must
make a specialty of some one thing as
gladioli, narcissi or lilies and produce a
superior and cheap article in large quan-
tity, or go into a general bulb-grow-
ing business on a large scale. The grower
who is able to supply a long list of arti-
cles, is more apt to get orders than one
who can furnish only a few and that in
limited quantity. Before embarking in
the business get some idra of the very low
rates growers receive for bulbs, the time,
labor, expense, and thought required in
raising the crop and marketing it, and
then start on a small scale— to raise stock
for yourself to begin with. In the way of
hardy bulbs as tulips, narcissus, etc., now
is the time to begin.

When to pot Cannas.— J. M., Pitts-
burg, Pa., asks: "When in spring should
cannas be removed from the place where
they are stored in over winter, and
potted? Would not potting them in
February or March do more to prevent
the tubers from rotting than if they were
left until May?"

With amateurs it is a question of room.
Decidedly potting them would help to
save them, but those who have windows
only can hardly aflbrd thespace formany
cannas. Pack them close, one deep and
heads up in boxes partly filled with ordi-
narily moist earth, and place these in an
equable cellar of 45° or thereabout, and
preserve them from drip, or a warm
atmosphere, and they should live well in
the cellar till March." But keep looking
at them now and again in winter.

Roses.

ROSES, CflNNflS AND CflRYOFTERlS IN OC-
TOBER.

How glorious is this October weather!
Some of the roses in the field arc n<nv giv-
ing their finest blooms. The Polyantha
Clothilde vSoupert is a mass of flowers,
larger and rich r in color than at anv

Ml

to be as much at home outdoors asunder
glass, it is one of the finest white roses we
have, and very free bloomer.

Cannas outdoors are still beautiful.
Oueen Charlotte is a mass of crimson and
gold. Golden Star is also fine, it will

require heavy feeding to make this vari-
ety nm over three feet high. I raised this
variety last year from Star of '91 seed.
The French raised cannas will have to
take a back seat after our new American
varieties are introduced. I have now on
one greenhouse bench a greater variety
of color and form in cannas than can be
found in all the European varieties com-
bined. From a batch of Oueen Charlotte
.seedlings alone I can make up a better
collection than Crozv sent out last year
in his 20 varieties for '94. [Bravo,
America!— Ed.] I have at last the pure
yellow wanted. This one is of most
healthy growth and a very free bloomer.
It opened its flowers here outside during
our coldest night in September when the
temperature fell to 33° in the morning. I
cut the bloom heads oft" and divided the
plant; the flowers kept fresh in water for
nearly a week. I have also other shades
that are charming.

Caryopteris Mastacanthus. — This is
the finest blooming shrub-like hardy plant
we have in bloom out of doors just now.
It is oije mass of rich blue flowers, and
has been in blossom for a month. The
heat and drouth of last summer had no
apparent evil effect on it, for its roots run
deep. Antoine Wintzer.

West Grove, Pa., Oct. 7, '94.

FALL BLOOMING flflRDY ROSES.

We would name the following as among
the best hardy roses for fall blooming:

M. P. Wilder, cherry carmine.

Pierre Xotting, deep crimson.

John Hopper, bright rose.

Margaret Dickson, white with pale flesh
center.

Paul Neyron, deep rose.
Mrs. John Laing, soft pink.
Marguerite de St. Amande, bright 1
Francois Michelon, deep rose.
Earl of Dufferin, velvety crimson.
Anne de Diesbach, lovely carmine.

Ellwanger & Barf
Rochester, N. V., September 1894.

Fael-Blooming Hardy Koses.— The
varieties of hardy roses that have shown
the most bloom in fall on our gi-oundsfor
the past few years would be about like
this: Mrs. John Laing, soft pink; Mme.
G. Bruant, white; General Washington,
led, shaded crimson. Coquette des Alpes,
white tinged with blush; La France, sil-
very-rose; Marshall P. Wilder, cherry-
carmine; Paul Neyron, deep rose; Coquette
des Blanches, white; Ulrich Brunner,
chen-y-red; Eugene Furst, velvety crim-
son; Mme. Masson, reddish crimson; and
Clothilde Soupert, pearly white withrosy
center. Perhaps this last named one
ought not to be classed as hardy, but it
has proved perfectly hardy with us for
the past two years. This is from our ex-
perience with the above roses as one and
two year old plants in nursery rows.

Storrs & Harrison.

Paincsville, Ohio.

ROSfl WICHURfllflNfl TO COVER fl GRAVE.

K.,.N.J. asks: Would you recommend
tlic trailing Wichuraiana rose for plant-
ing on a grave? I want it to cover the
loj) of the mound entirely. The soil is a
light mixture of sand and clay, and is
well drained. If you think the plant may-
be used in this situation how should the
soil be treated, when and how should the
jjlants be set out, and how far apart, the
idea being to form a mat of foliage.

.lauted an<

)uld

i8g4-

GARDENING.

39

THE LEAVES OP TEN VARIETIES OF CROTONS

say no; but if to be attended to, yes.
Why? because it spreads so much. Than
this" Japanese trailing rose there is no
morebeautilul living green carpet that we
know of. Its habit is to hug close to the
groundand becomeadense mat; itsleaves
iire small, very numerous, deep glossy
green, looking as if they were evergreen;
about the end of June or first of July it
becomes a sheet of panicles of little white
single roses, which later in the season are
succeeded by bright red heps. It loves good
ground, moisture in summer and a little
shade, then spreading flat to the ground
it will throw out shoots 20 feet long in a
year. .\t the same time if the ground is
good and not too dry, or the exposure
very sunny, and two orthree times a j-ear
the wandering shoots are cut in, it would
answer admirably. Mounds on graves
are still retained in old cemeteries, but in
modern cemeteries the graves are finished
off on theground level. In using this rose
it would show to better advantage on
the mound than on the level. We would
set one or two plants in the level giound
at the foot of the grave and lead the
shoots straight up over the mound to
the head; and at the head of the grave,
on the level, we would plant another one
or two plants and lead their shoots down
over the mound to the foot of the grave.
In this way we v ould get a thick cover-
ing in a year. And every shoot that
would spread out in any other direction
than over the mound should be cut off;
this being attended to three or four times
during the summer to have it neat. If the
soil is shallow or poor remove a goodly
(|uantity of it at each end of the grave
and replace it with good rich loam leav-
ing it slightly hollow rather than over
lull. If you plant this fall, do so as soon
as possible, and lay an evergreen branch
or two over the plants the first winter.

The Greenhouse.

Among the most showy and easily
managed of warm greenhouse plants arc
the man}' varieties of crotonsno .v grown
in gardens. They are evergreen shrubs,
mostly indigenous to Polynesia, and
have strikingly beautiful, bright y col-
ored and varied foliage. The flowers
amount to nothing. The plants are
readily increased from cuttings, and easily
grown, and make very pretty pot plants
either for greenhouse decoration, or for
room, windo<v box, or flower garden
work in summer. The leaves varj' greatly
in lorm. Som? arelong, slender, and arch-
ing, others broad and stiff, some are
three lobed, others are spiral; some are
striped, marbled, suff"used or blotched
green and yellow, and others have these
two colors with crimson and interme-
diate shadings.

In the greenhouse thej' like a thin shade,
warm quarters, a dewing overhead every
fine day, a moderate amount of water at
the root, and stopping the shoots now
and again to keep the old plants stocky.
They can be kept as specimen pot plants
for a dozen years in fine form; and in
tropical countries they grow to be small
trees planted out in the gardens. Many
people here use them freely planted out in
the garden in summer, they enjoy such a
place as tuberous beeoni'S do, good
moist ground and faint shade. Our illus-
tration, from the Phipps' Conservatory
Guide, Pittsburg, shows a sample of the
foliage of ten varieties. They are, 1,
Cronstadtii; 2, Hooketianum; 3, roseum
pictum: 4 Challenger; 5. Harlot Derby: G,
Queen Victoria: 7, Comtc dc ('>erniiny: S,
Morlii: 9, splcndiduni; 10, aurcum niacu-

latum Besides these Mr. Bennett, the
superintendent, cultivates between fifty
and sixtv other varieties

TflE GREENHOUSE.

Get everything indoors now. Man}-
greenhouse plants being of evergreen
nature may continue to look well outside
yet, but if "all hardy plants are preparing
ibr rest it is unreasonable to trust trop-
ical and extra-tropical plants to the in-
clemency of the weather after this.

Arrange the plants so as to give the
sunniest places to those coming into
bloom, and the shadiest to fine-leaved
plants, ferns and palms. Cacti if kept
pretty dry overhead will also do well in
a shady place. If the greenhouse is
crowded cool-loving, small plants like
cinerarias, Chinese primroses, geraniums
and libonias, may be kept for some time
yet in cold frames. Trese should be well
banked around and plenty material
should be at hand to cover them with in
the event o( frosty weather, for a breath
of frost is ruinous to cinerarias.

We have to make a good deal of room
just mw for chrysanthemums. As soon
as they are past and cleared out of the
houses we can bring in the above named
plants from the frames, also carnations
and early azaleas, dwarf stevia, etc

Keep the hyacinths or tulips buried out
of doors, or" in t'.ie cellar, to bring them
into the gi'cenhouse so soon would be to
ruin them. But Roman hyacinths and
paper white narcissus can be brought in
(or early flovi-ering. The earliest freesias
rray be given a place near the glass in a
warm end of the greenhouse; later lots
can be kept in a cool greenhouse or in
covered frames. Encourage cyclamen in
their growth, hut keep them in light well
ventilated greenhouses. If vou noticenny

40

• GARDENING.

Oct IS,

trace of the leaf miner in the foliage of the
marguerites pick off the infested leaves
and bum them. Both cut back old plants,
also young stock of show pelargoniums,
should be kept a little on the dry side at
the root and perfectly drv overhead, and
somewhat cool; we don"'t want them to
bloom before next April so there is no need
of hurrying their growth and taking up
room needed for other plants.

Although we have some fine achimenes
m bloom yet, room is so precious that
we are cutting them over, also gloxinias,
tuberous begonias, gesneras, tydzeas,
caladiums, and the like that we grow for
summer display, and storing them dry
under the benches.

Look out for insects. Soon after the
plants are housed in comfortable quarters
mealy bugs often appear in quantitv; in
fact many are puzzled to know where
they come from. In the case of plants
that have been plunged out of doors in
summer, for instance poinsettias, bou-
vardias, cacti, the bugs in summer leave
the stem and branches and take shelter
about their necks and roots, but as soon
as they are transferred to the more genial
atmosphere of the greenhouse, they leave
their hiding place in the ground, climb up
the stems, spin nests for themselves about
the axils, buds and points of the plants
and multiply exceedinglv. Thev must be
brushed off and bruised "to death, washed
off, or sprayed with kerosene emujsion; on
account of their powdery almost w ater
proof coats, however, we find it better to
brush and wash them off, us-ing Fir Tree
Oil or Little's insecticide in the washing,
and afterwards by hosing, syringing and
close watching keep them off. But a very
badly infested plant unless it be a very
valuable one isn't worth cleaning, better
dump both plant and bugs into the rot
pile than waste time cleaning it or run
the risk of contaminating vour other
flowers.

C«RYSflNT«EMUMS.

Do all you can to have flowers and
foliage and fine plants. Potted plants
should be securely staked and tied, but
neatly and unobtrusively. Give the plants
plenty of room, if you crowd them the
inner and lower body leaves will be
destroyed. Never let them wilt for want
of water. If they are well rooted and in-
chncd to be pot bound, give them liquid
manure now and again. If they are
newly potted and inclined to flag a little
sprinkle them over head twice a dav with
water to save them from wilting. If they
are still out of doors on the piazza or
under a tree be careful to keep them out
of the sweep of the wind or the draught-
ifindoors, although thev like to be kept
cool and have free ventilation they dis-
like draughts or hot sunshine. In a cool
greenhouse they need no shade, but in a
very hot one (there are great differences
in greenhouses) a slight shade does them
good Attend to disbudding. No mat-
ter how closely you disbudded them be-
fore, go over them again and remove
every flower bud and side shoot you see
Far better have one good flower to a
branch, than several poor ones. In dis-
budding be careful to leave perfectly
formed buds only, for onesided or im-
perfect give imperfect flowers. It often hap-
pens that the biggest, terminal bud is im-
perfect, if it is remove it and in its place
leave a perfect one.

We hear and read a good deal about
summer and other early blooming chrys-
santhemums, but among over 200 varie-
ties grown at Dosoris we have nothing in
bloom worth noticing. The few varieties
whose flowers arc now opening out of

doors are too poor in quality to mention.
Ten days from now, however, we should
have several good kinds in bloom. In the
greenhouse, with a little timely manipu-
lation one can have good flowers before
this time.

Mushrooms,

ORCHIDS.

As the colder season approaches it will
be best to gather together from among
the different genera the plants that are
showing forward scapes and place them
in a little higher temperature, say 75° by
day and 60° at night; this is to hasten
their coming and encourage their perfec-
tion. After the flowers are cut remove
the plants to cooler quarters.

There is always a brisk demand for or-
chid blossoms at this time of year. Dur-
ing the past few weeks we have had a fine
show of Odontoglossum grande, a sprink-
ling of O. crispum, O. Pescatorei and O.
Harryana; also Oncidium varicosum,
Dendrobiuw Phalaenopsis and D. tormo-
sum; Cattleya labiata vera, Burlingtonia
alba and Vanda tricolor and V. sua vis.

Utica, N. Y. William Mathews.

fllLfllWflNDfl ORflNDIFLORfl AND BOUOfllN-
VILLEflGLflBRfl.

Both have been flowering on a porch
here all summer. The pots are plunged
to their rims in the border at the foot of
the veranda. The bougainvillea is starved
in a 9-inch pot, yet it keeps up its flowei-
iiip- James MacPiierson.

Trenton, N. T.

Scale on Palms and Ferns.— L. F. ]..
Rochester, writes: I enclose herewith the
leaf of a palm with some insects on it;
some ofmy ferns have the same pest on
them. It hurts the ferns getting the in-
sects off. What is the best wav to kill

The insects are common greenhouse
plant scale. Tedious although it may
se m the only way to remove them with-
out injuring the plants is to rub and wash
them off. Use a little soft soap in the
water to make it run smooth, also to
make the surface distasteful to scales.
Weak kerosene emulsion washed over the
infested surface will help in destroying
them, but be careful in using it. Fir tree
oil, an insecticide you can buy at the seed
store, if used according to directions ac-
companying it is good, so is Little's anti-
pest. Dip the plants— the tops, not the
roots— in water ata temperatureof 130°,
this will kill a good many of the young
scales but not the old ones. The fact is,
however, that the only safe way of get-
ting rid of the scale is to brush and wash
it off, cutting off the more infested parts.
If we injure the leaves in cleaning them,
the fault is ours.

Three Palms for house decoration.
—In answer to A. D. M.: We dis'ike to
restrict ourselves to the three "best" be-
cause, taste, purpose and con'^itions may
differ. We like Livistona Cbinensis (La-
tania Borbonica), as a fan palm; and
what the florists call Kentia Belmoreana
and Areca lutescens in the way of feather
palms. These three are too big for table
decoration, howev r; for this purpose we
have the elegant Cocas Weddeliaim as a
feather palm, and Livistona rotundilhlia
as a dwarl fan palm.

We have been taking Gardening from
the first and are well pleased with it. We
find something helpful in everv number
(Rev.)S. II."McNeel."

Ontario Canada.

STRflNOB BEHHVIOR OF fl MUSHROOM CROP.

In 1802 I purchased some English
spawn and spawned a bed fifteen feet
square in a new barn where there was
never any mushroom grown, nor had I
ever seen any fungus of any kind. The
manure was thoroughly fermented, after
which a small part, about one-third, of
clean loam was added. I was careful not
to have it on the dry side This bed was
spawned in September, and in thecourse of
eight or nine days I slightly dampened it
and cased it, also covered it with straw. I
waited for results and they never came.
In October 1893 quite a number of mush-
rooms came up along one side from under
the boards, some of which were nine
inches in diameter. This spring, '94, I
thought I would haul the bed out, but
found that two or three inches of the bot-
tom of the bed was a mass of fine spawn,
so I saved it and in May and June I made
up some beds and spawned them with
this spawn. It took at once and in a
short time the beds wereamassof spawn;
they were duly cased with about two to
two and one-half inches of loam and well
beaten dcwn and covered with straw,
but as I did not wish them to come up be-
fore August or September I did not water
any after casing them. In July (latter
part) I gave them a thorough watering,
as I had perceived that pin head mush-
room were showing up bv the thousand
in every crevice and el!ewhere. In a few
days there were at least 1000 mush-
rooms from one-eighth to one-third of an
inch in s-ize. Some hens got into the build-
ing and scratched among the straw and
destroyed all on the surface, so I let the
beds go for a week and they got quite dry
but a new crop had come up equally as
numerous, I dampened the beds but did
not give very much water as I was afraid
it would hurt them or the spawn; a few
developed, but I am certain that there
were milllions that got flabby and turned
brown, which I scraped off. I cleaned all
I could see but to tell the truth I did not
get one-thii d of them out. as when I would
examine any portion of the casing it was
studded with them in clusters of fifteen or
twenty to bunches of a diameter of one
foot and the thickness of the casing or
more, as they would heave up in some
bunches several inches above the level of
casing. In these bunches it would be hard
to tell how many there were as they were
about one-eighth of an inch in size, look-
ing like a mass of white fish eggs.

After I had got all I could out I gave a
watering that sent them up thicker than
ever, but only a small part of them devel-
oped. The majority remain pinheads
while a few get one-half inch in diameter
and about an inch high, large enough to
show the formation of thecaps. The beds
have been moist enough I think since the
last mentioned watering. If all of them
would come to maturity the beds would
average twenty pounds" of mushrooms to
a square foot.

I believe the spawn I saved was virgin
spawn, for I was unable to find a single
piece of the spawn that I put in that
showed a trace of havinggrown. It was
too dry in the beds to start it into
growth. The mushrooms are of the
brownish variety the same as the Eng-
lish one, and not the white cap and vivid
pink gilled ones of the meadow.

For some time past since the fall rains
have begun I have been finding quite a
number of the meadow mushrooms near

i8g4-

GARDENING.

41

MR. HILLS MUSHROOM BEDS

an old straw pile that has been tramped
down among the grass and mixed with
cow, horse and hog droppings (by the
way I fail to find that hog manure inter-
feres with spawn running). They are
snow white capped, with pretty pink gills
the same as usually come up in old pas-
ture fields in the fall. I gathered a lot of
the spawn the other day and intend
planting some beds of it. They are not so
lieavy as the English variety but are
superior in general appearance Whatdo
you think about cultivating them?
[Doubtful. If for profit, we would stick
to the brick spawn. — Ed.] In connection
with the beds spawned with the spawn
found in the old bed first mentioned there
was a very peculiarmushroom comingup
in a few of them. It comes up with a very
large base and the cap is small at first
but soon grows and retains an elongated
form, and is of a dark cinnamon color
showing white lines as the cap enlarges.
They are from four to ten inches in dianic-
ter when fully open. The veil is entire and
firmly attached to stem (same as rubes-
CC7JS as pictured in Robinson's mushroom
book) and becomes detached from the
cap all around, falling down and around
the stem. The stem is of a yellowish
white color, inclined to be pithy and hol-
low. The veil is beautiful in form, dotted
over with light brown spots raised con-
siderable above the surface and can be
easily detached by the touch or by blow-
ing on them; gills are slightly pink- \\ hen
broken it has the odor of bitter almonds.
I examined the spawn directly underneath
it and find it far larger than ordinary
spawn. Can you identily it frora»th'e
above description? [No. Please dry and
send us specimens foridcntification. — Ed ]
Ohio. .\(;.\Ricis.

GROWING MUSHROOMS.

Some years ago I became interested in
mushrooms and started growing them. I
have experimented a good deal, and from
a close observation of the mushrooms in
the fields have learned as much as from
books, and practicallj- I have learned
more from one failure than from half a
dozen chance successes.

I handled the manure for the beds dif-
ferent from other people, the body of the
bed is simply a hotbed, but the surface
laj'er four inches deep consists of fresh
horse and cow manure mixed with a little
earth and sand, and it is in this I place
the spawn. I have had mushrooms in
six w<eks from the time I started the
hotbed part, and the beds havelastcdfive
months in bearing. The beds are in tiers
in large sheds, and four feet wide by
twenty-one feet long, and my average
whole season's picking from each bed
last year was 100 pounds of mushrooms.
To a large extent I use natural spawn.

All the manure I handle fresh. Moisture
in the manure is the hardest part to learn.
Too much moisture kills the spawn, and
not enough delays the crop, killing half of
it. For marketing I pack the mushrooms
in shallow solint wood baskets holding
about 2 pounds each,thev are 12x12 inches
by 3 inches deep. The mushrooms keep nice
and cool in them, and can be safely
shipped a considerable distance. I give a
printed guarantee of the quality with
every basket.

The demand for fresh mushrooms in
California is somewV'at limited, butinthe
eastern states where the market is vastly
greater it should be a paying investment.
Instead of the laborious and expensive
system of hand labor for everything and
brick buildings, wooden shuls are better,

and machinery should be used for manip-
ulating the manure, and all the mush-
rooms that would not find a ready and
profitable market in a fresh state, could
be made into catsup or canned or dried
for future use.

In an extended trip through the eastern
states last summer I visited most of the
mushroom growing places of note, and
was astonished to find that the growers
adher d to the brick structures when
wooden buildings properly built are so
much better. But mushroom growing is
still in its infancy, in a few years we can
stop eating the morsels of leather marked
"champignons" imported from France,
and satisfy ourselves with the home
grown product. C. L. Hill.

San Francisco.

Maggots in the Manure.— A. Y., Phil-
adelphia, writes; I have a load of fresh
horse manure in my cellar all ready
worked and fit for making into a bed,
but I find there are lots of small white
maggots in it. Will they injure the crop
or what shall I do to kill them?

We don't know what the maggots are.
We would pitch out the manure and start
afresh with clean manure. Mushrooms
are too fickle a crop to runany risks with.
Any attempt now to kill the maggots
might destroy the worth of the manure.
If you had observed maggots in the
manure while it was fresh, you might, by
having the manure moist and letting it
get pretty hot, say 130° to 135°, kill
them. But much care is needed to prevent
the manure from "burning" when it gets
so hot as that, (or "fire-fanged" or
"burned" manure is of verj' little use for
mushrooms.

42

GARDENING.

Oct, 15,

e«0ENIM6

William Falconer, Editor.

THE GARDENING COMPANY,

Monon Building, CHICAGO.

Subscription Price. J2.1

and other

to The

InK. Chicago, and all matters perlainlnp to the
department of the paper should be addressed U
Editor 01 GARDENING, Glen Cove. N. T.

Gardening Is gotten up for Its readers and In
Interest, and It behooves you, one and all. to ma
exactly suit your 1

perhaps we can help y(

SEND ITS PUOTOGR

tlowers. gardens, greei

The San Jose (Cal.) scale has ap-
peared in several places on Long Island,
and is causing quite a stir among some
of the fruit growers. Prof. Serrine of the
Long Island branch of the Geneva Exper-
iment Station is investigating the matter.

The American Agriculturist used to be
a monthly journal, but now it has changed
to a weekly. Its bright and happy lace
is and has aKvaj'S been a welcome visitor
in our home. It is a carefully edited, well
filled, progressive, tntertaining and most
instructive paper, and we rejoice in its
prosperity.

Cannas and Lilies.— a lady from Pitts-
burg, Pa., who was here the other day,
expressed herself as being thoroughly sat-
isfied with cannas in beds and masses in
the flower garden, also with lilies in rho-
dodendron beds. She grows lots of both
and nothing in the garden has given her
more pleasure, or less trouble.

"Sacaline" is the common name given
to the new forage plant Polygonum
Sachalinense such a fuss is now being
made about. It is the giant of the family.
As an agricultural crop we have never
tested it, but as a hardy, herbaceous
perennial in the garden we grew it as
long as eighteen years ago. It is of most
vigorous proportions and perfectly hardy.

^^ '^^ The Park Commissioners of the city

CONTENTS. of New York need the services oi a first-

AQuATics. class laudscapc gardener, and have in-

My pond lilies and how I grow them (illus) ... 33 vited these professional gentlemen to

Keeping hardy^pondime^sover^wmter 34 send in their testimonials so that they

Magnolia umb'ella . . . ... 34 (the commissioners) can select a man to

Trees and shrubs .'.'..'.'. '.Z^ suit them. Such a demand is an insult to

SaMy%"raa\°m'Minnes°o?a^^^'^ 34 ^ "°'^'^ profession, but it shows the cal-

Arapelopsis Veitchii!'pine'borers,' etc. . . '. '. 34 '^rc of the politicians at the head of the

THE FLOWER GARDEN. parks.

The flower garden .34

New hardy pink Her Majesty (illus) '. '. '. '. ! 3.5 The COMMON "swaLLOW-TAIl" (Papy/fO

WiMXTsl^"loomOct.3.- : : 3I ^"^,^™?' '^ ''^ T-^ ^Tf}^^^ butterfly.

Spring flowering bulbs in Chicago parks'. ; '. SI and its larvjE are big, iat fellows, green,
My flower garden in Nebraska 37 and ringed with vellow and black. And,

Ro°s?;'^peTnnTrs:'Srcissus. gladiolus ' ! " " " fs ^f "'* ^,^7 '"'I P^'''^'^^' i^^"" t^T^'i''"!!'
Field mice ate the lilies . . . ' i ! 38 they stick out a pair of orange-buiT, ill-
Growing bulbs in Washington state ..!.'!! .38 smelling horns to frighten vou awav.

When to pot cannas. ^^.^^^ 38 Hand picking and kilhng it'is the only

Roses, cannas. etc., in October 38 remedy against the ravages of this vora-

Fall blooming hardy roses .'.'.' 38 cious caterpillar.

Rosa Wichuraiana to cover a grave ! ! 38

THE GREENHOUSE. • • • ■ Plant SOME Hardv Roses. and do it

Th°e'gree'ih"ou'se-. ■•■•.;:.•:; 1 7^.- J^ P'^f'^S -^on't stand them

Chrjsanthemums 40 straight up, but lean them on their sides

Orchids . . " ' ' ^40 a little and all one wav; if in a row.all

Bi'uTainvin?aT.ab"rr; ! ^o" ^}'^^S^^ ''"^ ^l?^ ^'l ^^^l" ^eeause on

Scale on palms and ferns . '. '. ' '. '. '. ; '. .40 *^"^ approach of sharp frosty weather

Three palms for house decoration ..... iO you can lay the plants flat on the ground

<;iroM„»K«k ■ MtJSHRooMs. and coverthem with a fewinchesof earth,

strange behavior of a mushroom crop 40 /-> ^.t • ^1 . ^ ,•»,-• ,

Growing mushrooms (illus) .... .'.■;;; 41 Common earth is the best kind of winter

Maggots in the manure . '..!.!! 41 mulching for roses and it never harbors

THE FRUIT GARDEN. luicC

Concord grapes lailing to do well 42

'Fi'g^trels'rn''wimlr'^'"*''''*'"^ ■*? Trees in bloom again.— The summer

"r'liE'vEGETAni.E GARDEN ^^ wcathcr was exceedingly dry and the

Vegetable garden questions 43 drouth was not broken till a few weeks

VeKetable''i'ard'^en''nl'tes fi ^^°- '^ ^°°^\ ™^"^ ^'"'^'^^ ^"'^ shrubs

ripened up their wood and the leaves be-
gan to fall off. We are now experiencing
SWEET PEflS-fl SIX-FLOWERED SPRflY. the effect of the September rains on them,
I beg to submit herewith the latest re- '" several cases the buds are bursting into

suit of my efforts in sweet jiea culture, ''^•'''' ""'^ "" some pear trees, lilacs and

being a stem of Eckford's Splendour with mountain ash, there is quite a growth of

six blossoms. Many of my own produce young foliage and a sprinkling of blos-

stems with elustersof four, hut this, it soms.

seems to mc, out-Eckford's Eckford. I

liresume it is only a sport, but it's just

the s|)ort we would like to have Mr. Eck-
ford engage in witli practical results. If

any of your renders can do better than

this we would be pleased to hear from

them. F. S.

[The flowers were received as stated,

namely, there were six blossoms on one

Plant soMi; iin.iis.-

-Wli

en vou

bright .•iii.llH>;n,l,lul c

men-

- .■ 1 1 1 1 1 t 1

vour luiylilniis .-;ir,

rK\l xp

not the luni. U> .scUiIh

)Ut 11

your own garden; no<

,\ 1^ I

lie 1 inic

ever so few, trv some.

II \,i

11 '.^i 1 ih,

the ground any tiim

.■ IkI

Ml- han

1 (Ici Wi

the

i.l; is

lie It

the better, especially with crocuses; they
should a'waj's be planted early. Plant
some tuHps and daffodils anyway.

The Shaw Banquet, St. Louis.— The
fifth annual banquet to florists, nursery-
men and gardeners provided for in the
will of Henry Shaw, the founder of the
Missouri Botanical Gardens, will be given
at the Mercantile Club of St. Louis, No-
vember 5th. These yearlv gatherings are
happy meetings and bring togethernoted
horticulturists from all over the countrj-
who get acquainted with each other and
exchange ideas, and thus gardening is
broadened, ruts are levelled, and the
eountrj' improved. It is an impetus too
to the progress of the Botanical Garden,
for all the guests will surely visit it.

Genista caterpillars.— Ever since
midsummer our potted plants of genista
I Cytisiis racemosus) have been infested
with a caterpill ir of a yellowish brown
color spotted with white and black, that
have preyed upon the leaves We also
find that the wild Genista tinctoria is in-
fested with it, but we don't find it on any
other plants, not even on Cytisus Scopa-
rius, the common broom. Dr. Lintner (to
whom we have sent specimens) fells us
"They are the larvJB of a Pyralid moth
with reddish or ferruginous colored wings
named Mecyna reversalis Guen^e." By
hand picking, or spraying with kerosene
emulsion or Paris green in water it is
easilv held in check.

The Fruit Garden.

CONCORD GRAPES FAILING TO DO WBLL.

I have a grape arbor 70 feet long with
Concord vines 7 feet apart, planted on
one side. The vines are strong, about 15
years old, and cover the arbor thickly.
The soil is fairly good, with a little cla3'
about a foot beneath the surface. The
vines had been neglected, and when I took
possession five years ago I had to cut
them back greatly to bring them some-
what into shape. 1 had no grapes the
first year of course; the second year a good
many, but all went with the dry rot as
all grape vines here did then; third year
had fevi'er grapes, which mostly rotted
again; fourth year (last year) 1 pruned
the vine more closely leaving only one to
two buds on each shoot. Although I had
a pretty fair show of blossoms I got very
few and poor bunches. This year I cutoff
several of the old branches, "thinning out
the vines and left some strongshoots with
four or five buds Had a fair show of
blossoms, but only few scattered bunches
set with a few scattered berries on them.
Now when other grape vines about the
country are full I have nothing worth
gathering. Can you tell me the cause and
remedy? P. D. L.

Plainfield.N.J.

I confess to being somewhat puzzled
over your failure to raise Concord grapes
in abundance and under almost any of
the ordinary systems of pruning and
training. I have none on arbors but my
near neighbors have, and they seem to
thrive and bear immense crops. I have
one row of vines 150 feet Ion;, about
equal number of Hartford and Concord;
the vines are trained to stakes and the
main stems are from three to four feet
high. In pruning, all the previous sea-
son's canes are cut back to three or four
buds of the base; the new growth from

GARDENING.

43

these bearing fruit is allowed to fall over
like the ribs of an unil.ivlln, all the
1 lunches being com 1 lilt I ly slulund from
the direct rays of the miii hi -nmiiu r. This
row of vines has been ]iniiii.(l in tlif same
way for the past twenty years and has
never failed during the time to produce a
bountiful crop of excellent fruit, one sea-
son I saw a little black rot on one of the
Concords only. Of course I have Con-
cords and many other varieties trained
on trellises and "my only severe losses are
due to the cultivation of varieties not
adapted to my soil and climate. It isjust
possible that' the rose bugs attack the
blossoms of your grapes and this prevents
the setting of the fruit. I cannot see that
there is any fault in yourmodeof pruning
and unless rose Inigs and rot, or some
other disease interferes I am at a loss to
account for your failure. A. -S. Fri.i.UR.
Kidgewood, N. I.

T«E COLUMBIAN RED RflSFBERRy.

.\ visit to the fruit farm of Mr.J. T.
Thompson at Uncida, during the past
season afforded us an opportunity to note
the characteristics of the Columbian red
raspberry, mentioned in G.\rdenixg page
347. It is a great bearer and although
this year is its first appearance in our
vicinity, it has become a favorite by rea-
son of" its fine flavor, large size and non-
tendency to shrink or fall to pieces in the
process of canning. This season has been
exceptionally dry but the Columbian has
been shipped long distances and received
in excellent condition, proving it to be a
fine berry for shipping or market purposes.
The fruit ripens early and continues till
late in bearing. Unlike most lorries of
this class, instead of suckering it propa-
gates from the tips the same as the black
raspbei-ry. It is a vigorous grower and
hardv enough to stand our winters unin-
jured". W. S. F.

Camden, X. Y.

Fig Tkees in Winter.— G. J. P., Salt
Lake City, writes;— 'I have alittlefigtree
and am wondering how I can get it
through the winter. How much cold will
it stand? It usually gets to zero here in
wmter and remains cold for a few days,
but rarely below that, although we have
a good deal of cold and snowy weather."

Before hard frost sets in lay your fig
tree flat on the ground, and pile some
eight or nine inches deep of earth on top
of its roots and branches, as if you were
protecti' g grape vines or raspberry canes,
and leave it undisturbed till the winter is
over. The fig tree will survive all right.
And you can protect it in this way even
till it is twentv years old. How much
frost it will stand with impunity depends
on many circumstances, lor instance 20=
of frost at New Years might not hurt it,
but 10° of frost the first of April might
kill it. Frost doesn't do it any good.

The Vegetable Garden.

VEGBTflBLB GARDEN QUESTIONS.

1 . C.RF.ExnorsK Crops in Summer.—
What c;in be profitably grown duringthe
.•summer in 3,000 s((uare feet of glassbuilt
for forcing lettuces and radishes in win-
ter? I have some chrysanthemums on the
benches this summer, but could never find
a market for all I could raise in the
amount of glass I have.

2. Packing Lettuces in Winter —
Can vou inform me of the best wav to

pack lettuce for shipment? I desire the
lettuce to carry well and be fresh and
attractive in apijearance when it reaches
the retailer.

3. Spinach as a Orkenhousk Crop.—
Is spinach ever grown under glass? If so
how far apart are the rows and how far
apart are the plants in the rows, also
what price per pound should spinach
bring to make it as profitable as Grand
Rapids lettuce at 5 cents per head.

4. Greenhouse Tomatoes —I could
make it very profitable in this market if 1
could ripen tomatoes a month in advance
of the earliest grown out of doors. I tried
to grow an extra early crop this year by
setting the plants the last of April or first
of May upon the benches wheie lettuce
had been grown during the winter The
experiment was not a success. The soil
consisted of one-third or more well rotted
cow manure, which gave me tomato
plants six and eight feet in height with
little fruit. Would growing the plants
in pots filled with such soil help the mat-
ter any?

5. Can English Frame Cucumbers
be grown in the greenhouse during the
summer? I would care only lor the pleas-
ure of seeing a three feet cucumber grow,
with no thoughts of profit. W. G. B.

Gouverneur, N. Y.

1. Market gardeners here about leave
them empty over summer. Probably you
don't get outdoor cauliflow^rbeforejune,
cucumbers before the fourth of July, snap
beans before the 20th of June, or toma-
toes before the middle or 20th of July, up
till those times you can get all of them
from the greenhouse. Between the mid-
dle of July and the first of September is
the period when there is no money in the
gr enhouse, when we can grow things
better out of doors than inside. Out of
door cucumbers become unhealthj- in
September, and tomatoes begin to get
watery, but in the greenhouse we can
have them in prime condition from that
time on. Out of door musk melons arc
sometimes good, and sometimes bad, and
often are a very unsatisfactory crop, but
the high flavored hothouse melons of
England, although useless outside, thrive
admirablj' in our greenhouses in summer;
they need care, however. The fruits com-
mand a high price and are only fitted for
a select market. Some may advise you to
grow hothouse grapes in your houses in
summer, but don t do it, don't introduce
anything that will shade, crowd or inter-
fere with your vegetables before the mid-
dle of June or after the middle of Septem-
ber. Outdoor lettuces give out in Octo-
ber Don't you think there is more money
in a crop of greenhouse lettuces marketed
about the end of October than in chrys-
anthemums in November? We do.

2 and 3. Lettuce should be packed in
barrels; the heads averaging about six to
eight dozen to a barrel are generally the
most salable size. Have some soft mate-
rial (a little soft hay will do) on the bot-
tom of the barrel, then a layer of news-
paper, pack the heads in close with stalks
upwards and so on till the barrel is lull.
We think washing the lettuce and not
leaving any dirt on the stalks keeps it in
better shape, and makes the lettuce look
nice and bright on opening the barrels.
Cover the barrel with the head or canvass
cover, and mark the number of dozen on
each barrel. Even dozens are generally
the best.

In reference to spinach, our market for
it is generally very good between Christ-
mas and March, unless it is possible that

Norfolk spinach should be in market, as
it generally is, about that time, but of
course this will depend entirely upon the
weather there. If the stock there should
be cut off by frost, then the hothou.se
spinach would meet a good market and
bring extra prices for the grower, but
should it meet a market when spinach is
plentiful from Norfolk it probably will
sell at about $1.50 per barrel. However
if the grower can see any margin at this
price to ship to our market, with the
general possibility of securing more, we
think it will be safe to risk growing it.
Archdeacon & Co.
Commission Merchants, 100 Murray
street. New Y'ork.

Lots of spinach is grown under glass in
winter but not for market. Our garden-
ers flood the market with the outdoor
crop up into December, and except in very
hard weather Virginia ships it north in
immense quantity. Lettuces pay better.
We sow spinach in rows about ten inches
apart, moderately thick, and after the
plants are in fair leaf thin to one and one-
half to two inches apart, using the thin-
nings for greens.

4. Sow in January or first of February
and grow the plants in pots, giving them
lots of room and light, but cramping the
roots. Get them to make a shor jointed
stocky growth at first, so as to rush them
into bloom; hand fertilizethe flowers; and
as soon as a few bunches of fruit are set
to each plant, stop the shoots, and feed
the roots with weak manure water. If
you plant them out on benches, have very
little soil, and make that very firm.

5. With great ease. But you must
shade the glass to keep the plants from
wilting and scorching, and hose them
morning and afternoon to dispel red
spider. Cucumbers from sixteen to twenty
inches long are very fair; the three feet
fruit is something" very seldom seen
among the good varieties as Telegraph,
Sion House, and thelike, and yon couldn't
sell them in the market except as a
curiosity.

THE VBOETflBLE GARDEN.

It is time to think about pulling our
winter roots as turnips, beets, carrots
and salsify. Here we leave them in the
ground till after a light frost comes,
which is usually about the end of the
month; further inland, however, and in
more rigorous parts it is dangerous to
leave them out so long, k little frost
while thev are still growing won't hurt
them, but be very careful never to let frost
touch them after them are pulled. When
you pull them cut the tops off, but not
"the roots, and particularly in the case of
beets and salsify don't cut the tops off
close to the flesh. If you leave them in
heaps outside for a while before storing
in the cellar, see that they are covered
with tops enough to exclude frost and
shed rain, but not enough to generate
heat. Some salsify and parsnips may be
left in the ground over winter if we wish,
for late winter or spring use. We leave
horse radish and Jerusalem artichokes to
the last, often not digging them out be-
fore November. As both of them will
keep better in the ground than stored in
the cellar, we lift what we want for use
during winter, and leave the balance in
the ground till spring.

See that the potatoes are covered from
the light, and keep cool, but not as low
as freezing. If the onions get damp or
are kept over warm they will sprout,
avoid this. .\ little frost in winter won't
materiallv hurt them.

44

GARDENING.

Oct. IS,

Break an outside leaf in over the heads
of the hearting cauHflowers to save the
curds from frost. We lift and store our
cabbage in November, but people living in
colder parts mustn't wait as long.

Gather your surplus Lima beans if the
the frost hasn't already damaged them;
the half ripe ones will do for cooking
later on, and the full ripe ones both for
cooking and seed.

Attend to the winter spinach and Ger-
man kale, keep the ground clean about
them, and sweeten it by an occasional
scarifying with a steel prong hoe.

Clear away all old and waste crops,
cart out the manure, and do all you can
towards getting the cleaning, manuring
and digging or plowing finished in the
fall to lighten the work in spring.

VEOBTflBLE GARDEN NOTES.

Bush Lim.\s.— We have had the Thor-
bum, Burpee and Henderson bush Limas
and consider them all desirable, the last
especially for earliness. Dreer's we have
long regarded as the best pole Lima and
we always plant it for main crop. It is
productive, but its tenderness and sweet-
ness are what we prize it for.

Beets —The yellow tumipbeet has our
preference for sweetness, though we have
some red kinds to enliven the color
of the dish.

Cabbage and Cauliflower —Savoy
cabbages we often find almost as good as
cauliflower, and except for early we want
no other forboiling. Mr. Thomas Bennett
of Trenton, N. J., told me of having ad-
mirable success with cauliflower in a gar-
den in which others had failed by water-
ing them freely with soap suds from the
weekly wash.

Celery.— Having regard to flavor we
now raise only some of the pink or red
celeries.

Tailbv-'s hybrid cucumber we esteem
as best of all in table qualitv. It is large
•and prolific.

Egg Plant.— We tried the "Large
White" egg plant. It is productive but
small, and after two cookings we let all
the rest go to waste, because of qualitv.
But we tried another novelty in egg
plants which we can heartily recommend.
It is the Black Prince, introduced by a
European house. The fruit though small
is early, abundant and most delicious,
and the plant is handsome with its dark
stems and leaf veins. We shall want it
again.

Heroine pea has been very satisfactory
through a succession of plantings.

Carmine radish was as early and per-
haps of better quality than an extra early
fine French forcing sort.

SC0R20NERA has nearly all run to seed.
Is that usual? [Under ordinary conditions
no. If sown before May, however, it has
always a lot of "bolting" or flowering
plants. No doubt the very dry summer
helped to drive the plants 'into bloom.—
Ed.] Still it is good on the table

Thorburn Lemon Blush Tomato has
been more productive than several red
kinds the past dry .season on a very heavy
soil [Had it a bright red skin instead o'f
a lemon-blush one, this variety as it be-
haved with us this summer on enriched
sandy land, would be a triumph among
tomatoes, the fruits were so full, so juicy,
and so good.— Ed ]

Turnips —A novelty in garden turnips,
the "Smooth White Forcing" from
Heinemann, is the best early summer tur-
nip » e ever h id, tender and sweet; but it
should be said that it had the advantage
over kinds formerly planted, of being well
watered with a hose. The White egg for

early winter and Breadstone for late ar
favorite sorts with us. E. R.

Plainfield, N.J.

Hungarian grass as a fertilizer— I
find that Hungarian grass plowed under
will modify the effe ts of a long drouth.
Where I have my carnations planted out

was sod land plowed over last August,
and notwithstanding the severe drouth
we have had this ground has been moist
all the time. Sow a little Hungarian
grass when your peas come off and plow
it under later, and watch results next
summer.
Long Island. C. H. A.

PLANT INTELLIGENTLY,

And with Profit and Satisfaction.

Consult our Catalogues, and Plans and Suggestions for Planting. Expert advice
often saves hundreds of dollars in landscape work, and it's yours for the asking.
We devote the greater part of 250 acres to all that is rare and unique, in

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And our Catalogues offer many hardv and valuable plants not to he found in
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Note our ofters of the famous new Roses, Crimson Rambler and Rosa Daw5onii.

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You will benefit Gardening by men-
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i894.

GARDENING.

45

Wanted

liy a man of experience in the
cultivation of Mushrooms,

A party with capital to start a culture
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Addres. cHAS. L. HILL,

1024 Oeary Street,
tm SAN FRANCISCO, CAL.

100

HYACINTHS

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\VM. TRICKER & CO., Clifton, N. J.

Superb Pansies.

My "RAINBOW MIXTURE" is a combina-
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and cannot fail to give satisfaction. Stocky
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GEORGE CREIQHTON,

. . . Poughkeepsie, N. Y.

lie Culture of Mushrooms, free b
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If you like

GARDENING

Please recommend

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Send for estimate, and state size of roof.

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EXCELSIOR PAINT & ROOFING CO.

155 Duane Street, NEW YORK, N. Y.

Before Buying Holland Bulbs

Send a postal card for our Fall Catalogue for 1894. It gives carefully condensed
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1 tt-i?" A Chart showing depth and distance apart to plant.

28Sr An idea imported from Holland.

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w.

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PHILADELPHIA,

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ir Nursery can sbow. Plunters as well as Nur-

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ADDRESS H. H. BERQER & CO.,

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containing a fine assortment of the best, such
as I grow successfully herein cold Vermont.
Address

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46

GARDENING.

Oct. 15,

Publisher's Department.

WflftT SUBSCRIBERS SflY.

Gardening is like wine; as it grows
older it grows better— that is if it can
grow better. M. E. Ten Eyck.

Florida.

I can not tell you how great is my
pleasure inCi.vRDE.NiNG. It fills a long^felt
want, and from a literar\' point of view,
is quite perfect. F. N. B.

Crown Point, Ind., Sept. 21, ''.t4.

You will find enclosed $2 for the re-
newal of my subscription to Gardening.
The price has been raised, but if it con-
tinues to put forth the sound and prac-
tical ideas which it has been doing since
its beginning I consider its price yet little
value for what we get.

X. Y. L. O. Palmoiist.

Please cunlinue to send me Gakdk.n'I.vg.
I do not want to lose a number. It is a
gem, getting brighter every issue. It
ought to become fie organ of American
gardening. The views of any issue are
worth the price of the paper say nothing
about theniatter. E. W. Lake.

Portland, Oregon.

It is a paper whose visits once intro-
duced grows in our good graces so we
cannot well do without it the whole year
round. I have had occasion to make a
number of orders through your advs. all
of which have resulted quite satisfac-
torily. Henrv McLaui.kn.

Columbia Citv, Ind.

To THE Editor ok Gardeni.ng — Siv:
1 wish to write you a word of thanks for
the manner in which you have treated my
letters of inquiry.

The articles in Gardening for January
15, 1893, page 140, February 1, 1893,
page 155, and October 15, 1893, page 44,
as replies to my letters of inquiry, have
been of very much benefit to me, a benefit
which means dollars and cents. I wish to
thank you for the above with all my
heart. \'ours very respectfully,

Wm, G. Brainard.

GouveriKiir, .\. Y., Sept. 27, 1894.

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GARDENING.

47

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183, 185, 187 rionroe Street,

. . CHICAGO.

EflKraving by all Processes.

• • • GARDENING.

Oct. IS,

Planting:
Plans

should be made during the Fall and
Winter and the planting done the fol-
lowing Spring

J. Wilkinson Elliott,

Landscape Architect,
Horticultural Buyers' Agent,

Pittsburg, Pa.

Detailed Planting Plans with specifica-
tions furnished at moderate cost. Trees,
Shrubs and Plants supplied my cus-
tomers at a saving of 25 to 50 per cent.
from usual prices.

Pamphlet and Price List sent on

application

When writing mention Gardening.

New.Rareand Beautiful Flams

STROBILANTHES DYERIANUS. This is the
most valuable novelty that has been intro-
duced for years. For beoding is superiortothe
finest coleus; withstands hot sun and dry
weather better.

A large collection of rare hothouse and green-
house plants, carefully grown, at low rates.

ORCHlDS—A very extensive stock; East Indian,
Mexican, Central and South American. &c.

RARE AND BEAUTIFUL EVERGREENS,

ORNAMENTAL TREES, SHRUBS, &c.

P/EONIES-A large collection of the finest in cul-
tivation. Hardy Perennials, Phloxes, Japan-
ese Iris. Roses, Clematis, etc. New and Stand-
ard Fruits, etc.

4W"Catalogues on application.

JOHN SAUL, Washington, D. C.

FLOWER POTS.

. STANDARD •

You will make a mistake if you place your
orders for flower pots this Fall without
first receiving our estimates for same.
Our plant Is now the Largest in the World.
Our stock unlimited. Our goods equaled
by none. . . .

A. H. HEWS & CO.,

North Cambridge, Mass.

JOHN C. MONINGER GO.

WRITE
FOR
CATLG.

Cypress
(jreen=Iiouse
2^Y Construction
307 Material.

Hawthorne Ave., Chicag'O,

Fine Flowers t^^

ire raised from fine Bulbs and good
reliable Seed. We furnish these. Send
for our Fall lUilb Catalogue. Address

August Rolker & Sons,

130 & 138 W. 34th St.,

•' or 1'. O. Station V..

1 Gurdenln^'.

PITCHER & MANDA.

Special inducements are being offered i
greenhouse and ouldoor plants of every d
scnption and ver>' high quality, at the lowe
prices ever known. Such an opportunity i
secure bargains seldoni occurs.

Wnte us your requirements and we wi
furnish estimate of cost.

United States Nurseries,

SHORT HILLS, N. J.

When wTltlDR mention GardenlnK-

. A ROSE HEDGE

Is a most beautiful object, and now is the time to plant it, as probably never again will the
same quality of plants be offered at so low a figure.

The above cut shows a block of Madame Plantier Roses that are three years old.
They have been root pruned and sheared (the picture was taken during the process of
shearing), and will make a fine show as soon as transplanted. Madame Plantier is espe-
cially adapted to hedges, as it is the hardiest of roses, gives a most abundant crop of
beautiful white flowers, and stands pruning as well as a California Privet.

Price, boxed and delivered at any freight liouse or Express office in
Rochester, $9.00 per 100; $75.00 per 1000.

N. B. — The plants should be set twelve to fifteen inches apart to produce the quickest
results, though if set eighteen inches apart they will fill up any gaps in the course of a
year or two.

W. S. LITTLE & CO.,

Commercial Nurseries. — prtrHccTcp jvj, y.

LORD & BURNHAM CO.,

Horticultural Architects #^ Builders,

STEAM AND HOT WATER HEATING ENGINEERS.

nUlied on application

LORD & BURNHAM CO.,

lrvington=on=Hudson, N. Y.

ORNAHENTAL TREES
and SHRUBS . . .

IN GREAT VARIETY.

Specimen Plants for Lawns and Cem-
eteries. Send for Catalogue.
SAnUEL C. MOON,

• • Morrisville, Bucks Co., Pa.

CANNAS-

Mme. Croz.y, J. I>. Cabos, Alphonae
Konvier, F. Alarquant, Captain P. de
SuxzoqI, Pres. Caraot, CiUHtave .Senne-
hol7., ExpIoratenrCrMmpbel, H. A. Dre«r,
The Garden, Comte H. de Chulseal,
GeofTroy «t. HUalre. One of each for R.OO.

PROBST BROS. FLORAL CO.,

1017 Broadway. KANSAS CITY. MO.

-TANiO. QARDfTA/

Plil

siP^ir ■■■•'• AJF-'f^w'"'

^-^RTi

. • \ •'. <^^^^B

■0-- \ ■

HARDY YUCCAS AT EGANDALE ILLINOIS

The Flower Garden.

yUOCflS {r:!:i>'„;,/osa) IN TflE OflRDEN.
This stately i)lant is very effective when
grouped in anirregiilarmaiiiieronalawn.
riie group illustrated in part consists of
twelve plants, eight of which bloomed
this year. They are planted in holes two
feet in diameter, and same in depth, filled
with sandy loam, slightly enriched with
old manure. Plenty of space between is
allow. (1 for the lawn mower. They are
ixrfectly hardy here; each fall they catch
the leaves blown by the wind', which
seems to be all the protection needed.
They arc shy bloomers; young strong
I)lants bloom and then for a few years
produce suckers but no bloom. I grow
these suckers elsewhere and each spring
transplant "promising" ones and get
Irom seven to nine bloomers out of the

wclve each
Highland 1

W. C. V.c,.\

after year. See a picture of some of them
in Garde.ning, page 20, Oct. 1, '92. We
let the plants getasbigandmultierowned
as they want to. But hardy as they are
they like shelter. They dislike wet ground,
but dearly love deeply worked, rich, sandy
land, By "deeply worked" we don't
mean a foot deep, but three or more feet.
They ripen lots of seed with us, and these
sown in spring in rows in the open gar-
ilen germinate as readily as do onions.
In three years they are flowering plants.
As yuccas are so very easily grown and
long lived we can recommend them as
being one of the best of hardy plants.
Our foremost landscape gardeners arc
using them freely as settings in front of
shrubbery jilanting and to set out among
rockwork, and in various other ways
where the land is sandv.

DWARF flOERflTUM, flLTERNflNTHERfl, CflL-
CEOLflRlflS, ETC.

J. J. 0. B.,\Villiamstown, Mass., writes;
1.' "The Tom Thumb ageratum I raised
from seed last spring proved to be a
nii.xture of many dwarf kinds, some with
small whitish flowers, others with coarse

foliage, compact, but with scarcely any
flowers. The whole lot looked quite
shabby all summer, mostly on account of
the seed ripening nearly all the time.
What about Cop -'s Pet that I read about
recentlyin Garde.ning? I sent to a seeds-
man for seed of it last spring, but could
not obtain it.

2. "I am thinkingof planting the same
bed (100 feet long by 5 feet wide) next
summer with a carpet arrangement made
up of dwarf alyssum, golden feather fever-
few, blue lobelia and Cope's Pet ager-
.-ituni. All of these I can raise myself
from seed in the hotbed and they won't

:alternanthera
or other dark colored plants to corre-
S])ond in height with the former?

+. "Please tell me about growing
shrubby calceolarias for out of doors. 1
have a moist shady border in which 1
think thev would do well."

1 . Ageratum raised from seed must
contain an uneven assortment of plants
of uneven quality and variety; at the
s;ime time strains are often reduced so

50

GARDENING.

Nov. /,

fine that thej' come fairly true from seed.
The only way to be sure of Cope's Pet is
to raise the young ones irom cuttings or
division of the old plants; as it grows
and multiplies readily this isn't a very
formidable task.

2. Be careful in arranging yellow and
blue. In lobelia and ageratuiii you have
two shades oi blue; we think the ager-
atum alone will give j-ou a more pleasing
and lasting efiect

3. Altcrnanthera paronvchioides major
and the crimson leaved creeping oxalis
called in gardens O. tropwoloides will
suit your purpose.

4. The varieties kept by florists and
perpetuated from cuttings often do nicely
in June and July. Our experience with
them from seed 1 as not been satisfactory.
From seed sown indoors in March we
can get up nice plants to set out late in
May, but then the trouble comes, they
come uneven in size and blooming and
seldom make show enough to justify the
care and ground they take. Their floweis
are mostiv brown or brownish yellow.

CROZY'S AND OTHER NEW CflNNflS ftT
BOSTON.

The grounds of my neighbor Mr. James
Farquhar, at Clarendon Hills, are just
now specially attractive to admirers of
these magnificent plants, for there maj-
be seen the novelties of M. Crozy's estab-
lishment for 1894. They mark a distiiact
advance in these flowers. Of those more
distinctivel}' of the Madame Crozy type
are Baron M. de Hirsch, Souvenir d' An-
toine Crozy, James Farquhar, M. For-
geot. Van den Berg, Jr., Paolo Radaeli.
These all have the j-ellow markings of
Mme. Crozy but usually more pfainly
defined and wider, and a few of them
seem to surpass it in brilliancy of color.
Paolo Radaeli, a dwarf of two and one-
half feet, is of a superb garnet velvet color
with wide brilliant yellow edge, and on
the whole perhaps the most attractive
canna of the collection. Van den Berg, Jr.
is distinct in color; a sort of vermilion
scarlet suffused and dotted with carmine,
with the base and edges of the petals a
brilliant shade of yellow, the whole flower
has an iridescence similar to that on a
pigeon's neck.

In the apricot shades we find Ingegnoli
Fratelli and Arairal Avellan, both with
dark foliage and large flowers, the latter
is likely to prove a formidable rival to
that grand sort J. D. Cabos. These will
l)e possibly four to four and one-half feet
high. General deMiribel, a dwarf two and
one-half feet has large flowers of a light
shade of apricot.

In the crimson shades the noticeable
ones are John Laing. Madame Ch. Molin,
a beautilul flower, plant dwarf, two and
one-half feet; and Ami Pichon, also dwarf
but with a flower five inches across, deep
crimson or vermilion with deeper crimson
or carmine stripes and dots. It is a superb
flower. Rose Unique and Treye Marie arc
good flowers of a deep rose shaded
slightly with cannine. They are odd, but
may be passed where there are so many
better. There are no self yellows, but
three good onos of the faintly spotted
sorts are President Chandon, a brilliant,
showy, orange yellow witli brick red
spots and the objectionable droo])ing
habit of Bouvicr; Madame Camille Dugas,
a large flower similarly marked but of up-
right and much better habit, and Madame
Montefiore a tall grower of five to five
and one-half feet, like in color of flowers
to the well known variety Captain P. de
Suzzoni, but so far its sui>crior in every
particular that the lattcr's days are num-
bered when Madame Montefiore can Ik-

bought at a reasonable price. The flower
spikes are numerous, erect and well fur-
nished wi h long stemmed lovely flowers
of immense size I measured several a few
days ago and found them overfive inches
across, with the broad rounded petal of
Madame Crozy. The spots are faint and
the general effect at a short distance is
that of a clear yellow.

The above are the most prominent of
Mr. Farqubar's Crozy collection. He has
howe\er several grand seedlings of his
own, mostly products of Madame Crozy,
one of which, named Victor, is a remark-
ably brilliant flower surpassed but by few
in the collection from M. Crozy. Should
any of your readers interested in these
plants chance to be in the "Hub" a visit
to Mr.Farquhar's grounds will sureh'
repay them. This can be easilj- done by
train from Park Square Station, Boston
and Providence R. R., to Clarendon Hills
Station, whence a walk of a few minutes
brings one to Mr. Farquhar's place.

At Newton Highlands Mr. Arthur 11.
Fewkes has now in flower quite a number
of seedlings from Mme. Crozy, three of
which are of great merit. One named
Mrs. Cowing is a beautilul yellow faintly
spotted with crimson or terra cotta. It
IS ol dwarf habit, about two and one-
half feet, and has fine erect spikes of large
flowers well carried on long stems. I have
measured several individual flowers of
this variety, and found a spread of five
and one-half inches with one and one-
fourth inch breadth of petal Its Crozy
blood crops out in rather an interesting
way, inasmuch as there is a distinctly
marked border to the petals of an almost
orange tint, while the body of the flower
is rather of a lemon shade. The Mass.
Horticultural Society gave Mr. Fewkes a
silver medal for this fine canna last sea-
son. When we include this with Mme.
Montefiore and Florence Vaughan, there
seems to be but little to be desired in this
color. But predictions are risky in these
days of horticultural activitj- and hybrid-
izing skill. Mr. Fewkes' other two seed-
lings are self crimsons, dwarf growers
and with erect spikes of inagnificent flow-
ers. One resembles Bouvicr in color but
is even better, and "holds its head up."
The flowers of the other are I think the
largest I have met with, spanning some-
times six inches with one and one-half
inch petals, color magnificent. The petals
lack a little in substance and have not the
fimmess of Mme. Crozy, but the flower is
notwithstanding imposing. It looks a
little as though Mme. Crozy might live to
see herself outshone by her children, but
that is the common fate of mortal and
flowers. It would appear that we have
about reached the limit of desirable size
in cannas though I know the fad of late
years has nm in that direction. But too
often quality has suffered in this scramble
for quantity. W. H. C.

West Roxburv, Mass.

LILY DlbEflSE.

This lily disea.se we now have is a differ-
ent one fiom what was introduced ^ itli
the auratum lily. The auratums used to
rot, beginning at the bulb and extending
up the stem, and I have seen it a chase
between the rot and the flowers whether
the rot would get to the flowers before
they expanded. This disease seems gone,
my auratums do fairly well, and certainly
the old blacking rot of the stem does not
show. The tiger was the first other lily
struck with this auratum rot when it
was introduced, and it now is the fir.-t to
suffer from the Bermuda lily disease,
which affects my lilies all over at once.
The tigers are wiped out. and the rubrums

just about so. I propose to dig out and
throw away the rubrum bulbs in a bed
fifty by five feet, dug four feet deep, with
good drainage, which up to last year was
a scene of the utmost luxuriance. Now,
will the Bermuda disease follow the ex-
amole of the auratum one, and die out of
itself? \\. W.

Hulton, Pa.

LILIUM flURflTUM IN POTS AND IN SHADE.

Last year I tried bulbs of Lilium aura-
tum in pots covered with ashes under a
deep outside cellar stair, and also under
a cover of oak leaves in a drj' area in
front of a basement window. I mulched
the oots with grass from the lawn and
jjlaccd them under some evergreens, and
the3' were fine. In the field they do
poorly. They live but they have poor
color and poor bloom. I am now quite
convinced chat what ails them is the lack
of sufficient shade. I have a few on a
shelf in a ravine densely shaded and
hardly a promising place for anything
but spring bulbs which are ripening by
the time the trees are in full leaf, and in
this place auratum does finely, fully as
well as in pot culture. In Japan itgrows
on the wooded hillsides resiing on the
clay or loam, but under a cover of six to
eight inches of leaf mould which the frost
never penetrates. C. L. M.

Milwaukee.

WEEDS IN THE LflWN.

I have had difficulty in getting a lawn
started about mv hotise at Setauket, L.
I In the spring 'of l.S9,3 I planted the
ground with lawn mixture, but the sea-
son was dry and it did not do well. Last
spring I plowed it all up and following a
suggestion in Gardening I planted a
mixture of Kentucky blue grass and
Rhode Island bent grass. It came up very
well, but another long dry season killed a
good deal of it. With the fall rains, how-
ever, it has grown considerably and looks
as if there was enough to make a good
stand were it not for the we ds. I might
add that the soil is a sandj- loam with a
fair topsoil,th;land having been formerly
cultivated for farm crops and in the two
plantings mentioned I used commercial
fertilizers. During the past summer a
vast quantity of rag weed, wild carrot
and a weed we call "nigger head," of
which I enclose a specimen spray, came
up. I kept the tops well cue so that 1
assume next year the two former will not
re-appear. The latter, however, as I re-
call it in other places is a perennial which
grows stronger each year and as the
lawn is very full of it I am at a loss what
to do I tried cutting it off just under
the ground but found it grew up with
several new heads in place of the former
one. As the lawn is about four acres in
extent it would be a great labor to take
all these weeds up b_v the roots, and I do
not wish to plow it all up again next
s])ring. Can vou advise me what to do?

Wall St., NeW York. C. B.

The "nigger head" plant sent is rib
grass or lance-leaved plantain (Plantago
lanceohita). Your land must have been
rather foul, that is full of the seeds of
weeds, to begin with. The seeds are in
the ground and only require to be brought
near enough to the surface to give them
a chance to grow, so after every plowing
you would be apt to have a fresh crop of
weeds. If the lawn is kept well cut down
all summer, annual weeds like rag weed,
she|)herd's purse and the like won't be as
troublesome next year; and while vour

i894.

GARDENING.

51

close cutting this year may not kill out
the wild carrots this winter, continuing
the close cutting for another year or so
will destroy them. It will be a harder
matter to get rid of the rib grass It,
dandelions and crab grass are among the
worst lawn weeds we have got. We
would rceonmiend that you rake the
lawn clean with long-toothed steel rakes,
removing sorrel, mouse ear chickweed,
creeping vervain or veronica, yarrow, or
any other weeds j'ou can, then roll the
lawn firmly with a twohorse roller.
Refuse tobacco stems from cigar factories
if bought by the ton are pretty cheap
Get two to three tons of them, o])cn the
bales and shake up the stems quite loose,
then load them up and cart them on to
your lawn, spreading them evenly. This
is to act as a mulching over winter. It
isn't meant as an insecticide at all nor to
kill noxious weeds; but as it has some
manurial value, and contains no seeds of
anj' kind, and won't blow away, it makes
a desirable mulch.

As soon as the snow leaves the ground,
say early in March, on a very dry- day,
sow some more fine grass seed over the
barer parts of your lawn, and without
removing the stems, run a light brush
harrow over it to settle the seed on the
ground, then roll it. Leave the stcmson,
and if you are troubled with European
sparrows add another ton of fresh stems
to your mulching to repel the birds. When
the grass begins to grow a little the
tobacco stems now- pretty well rotted
should be raked oflfwith wooden-toothed
rakes. Never wait for warm weather to
sow grass seed, if you gdt a snow storm
after the seed is sown it w-on't hurt it. If
you like white clover in your lawn sow
it with the grass seed in spring. The
only way to reduce the weeds is' to en-
courage the growth of the short grasses,
and mow frequently to behead the weeds.

Lilies to Bloom in August.— X. Y. Z.,
W. Va., wishes "to exhibit a small collec-
tion of lilies at a fair next August and have
selected auratum, A. vittatum, speciosum
album, s. roseum, s. rubrum, s. Melpo-
mene, tigrinum, fl.pl., Leichtlinii and a few
others, including one of the new East
India yellow- lily. I have not yet planted
the bulbs and would appreciate some
hints of how to proceed so as to reach
best results."

You may have difficulty in getting all
of these lilies to bloom at the same time
and as late as you desire. If you had a
good many to choose from, and planted
some in a cool, moist, fainth- shaded spot
your chances for late flowers would be
better. Bulbs that have been out of the
ground and had a long and decided rest
are not to be relied upon so much as ones
w-e have been growing and know all
about. They maj- be impetuous or ener-
vated. It is an easy matter to get all of
these lilies into bloom a month earlier
than is their usual custom, but to retard
them is far more difficult. And in the case
of auratums in particular, even under the
same cultural conditions they may not
all bloom at the same time, you may
notice this among those in your garden.

Wintering tender bulbs and tubers.
— C. W. P., Nebraska asks: "How to
keep (1,1 gladiolus, (2) tuberoses, (3)
cannas, (•!•) dahlias, bulbs and tubers
through the winter without rotting or
growing?

(6). Will old bulbs of tuberoses bloom
next summer. (G) When is the best time
to remove the young shoots. (7). How-
shall I treat them to make bloom them
successfiiUv? And remarks

"Gardening I consider is the best
floral and gardening journal published."

1. Lift them at once. Cut the stems
and leaves off two or three inches from
the bulbs, spread them out thin to dry,
then clean them, and store them aw-aj- in
bags, or shallow boxes in a cool shed,
cellar, or building, in a temperature of
about 45°.

2. Crop them over; then lift them and
dry them and store them in shallow boxes
on a shelf in a warm place, saj- 60°.

3. How to keepcannasoverwinterhas
been answered several times lately.

4. Dahlias, the same as tuberoses, onlv
a little cooler. They keep fine in a cellar,
if kept dry.

5. Y'es, if strong enough and in good
condition.

6. When sorting the bulbs over in win-
ter.

7. Plant early — but not before you
would sow Lima beans, in warm good
ground. They all don't flower.

The Belladonna Amaryllis won't
BLOOM.— M. N., Wis., writes: "I have
treated it as a pot plant for two years.
Its leaves are now (October 5) a foot
high, and a number of offshoots have
made their appearance, but no flowers.
It is said to be perfectly hardy. Will it
do to plant it out in the open ground
with so much new growth?" It is a
native of the Cape of Good Hope, and in
warm sheltered positions it lives nicely
out of doors at Boston, but we do not
think it is hardy in Wisconsin. We have
not known it to multiply very fast. Under
ordinary conditions its leaves grow in
spring, and die down in summer; and
after a rest in dormant state in late sum-
mer the bulbs throw up vigorous scapes
terminated with several large, rose-col-
ored flowers.

The "Mexican Primrose" won't
BLOOM —M. N., Wis., has been trying for
three j-ears to pet it to bloom; he has tried
it as a pot plant, and a basket plant,
planted it in the open ground in full sun-
shine and in partial shade, in rich soil
and in poor soil, and watered and fer-
tilized it, but all to no purpose, it hasn't
borne more than half a dozen flowers in
all that time. We presume the pretty
little rose-pink evening primrose (CEno-
thera) is the plant referred to. Keep it
cool (but not so low as to let it freeze!
and inactive all winter, and only slightly
moist, to rest it. In early spring when it
starts into fresh growth give it more
water and more sunshine. We have seen
it in the greatest profusion of bloom, and
then it is a lovely little flower.

A New Canna in the way oi but "much
superior in coloring to Paul Marquant"
has been raised from seed by P. L. V.,
Bayou Goula, La. "This seedling is now-
(October 10) only 18 inches high and this
is its first head of bloom." The flowers
being so good to begin with are apt to be
always good, but the dwarfness of the
plant when it bears its first flowers
doesn't always hold good that thevariety
will continue to be very dwarf We have
had scores of seedlings come into bloom
as small as that and grow to be several
feet high the next summer.

Destroying Weeds.— The only practi-
cal way of getting rid of such persistent
weeds as milkweed, calystegia and horse-
nettle is to cut them down as fast as the}-
spring up. If this is persisted in for two
years there is no weed that can stand it.

Hulton, Pa. W. W.

Trees and Shrubs.

LflROE-LEflUED MflONOLIfl AND FflULOWNIfl.

A. L. W., Buffalo, N. Y., writes. "I am
anxious to plant a Afa^no//a niacrophylla
and Paulownia imperialis, and would
like to know if I can reasonably expect
them to thrive in our climate. It is very
seldom that our temperature reaches ten -
degrees below zero in winter, but our
winds are very strong." Instead of Mag-
nolia macrophylla we would suggest
that you try the Japanese large-l.aved
magnolia, namely, M. hypoleuca.

Neither the large-leaved magnolia nor
the paulownia will thrive in the clay sub-
soil of Buffalo and vicinity. 1 believe
that in thin, loamy or gravelly soil young
plants would ripen the wood sufficiently
to escape being killed back, if the roots
are mulched as a protection from severe
frost until they get down deep enough.
Both species do well with proper atten-
tion for the first few years in the vicinitv
of New York. In fact the paulownia is a
common street tree in Brooklyn, and
trees of large size maj- be seen occasion-
alh'. The minimum winter temperature
here is not lower than in New York, but
the spring is nearly a month later, and
the paulownia would rarely bJoora, if
ever. All the plants, both of the above
magnolia and the paulownia, which I
hive set out out in the park here have
been killed back in winter, because the
growth was too rank and sappy. The
paulownia roots are often uninjured, and
each season they send up one or more
succulent shoots, with leaves three or
four times the normal size. The general
aspect of these annual sprouts is that of
an overgrown sunflower rather than of a
young tree. As year by year the roots
increase in vigor the annual saplings in-
ci-ease in size and softness, and then the
first sharp frost of the season suddenly
kills both stem and roots. I therefore
think that under ordinary conditions of
soil and exposure neither species will
thrive in Buffalo or its vicinity.

Wm. McMillan.

Sup't of Parks, Buffalo, N. Y., October
16, '94.

SflflDB TREES FOR T«E SOUTH.

U. B. H., Americus, Georgia, "wants to
get quite a lot of good sized shade trees
shipped out to me this winter." He vis-
ited thenorth last summer, and at Dosoris
(we regret hedid not make himself known
to us) he saw some copper beeches and
other trees that pleased him, and a friend
"recommended to me as most thrifty and
beautiful shade trees the Norwav and
sugar maples," and advised him "to get
them from a certain far-north nursery.

There is a big difference between the
cHmatic conditions of New Y'ork and
southw-estem Georgia; Nevi- England
trees might disappoint you, better take
the advice of such eminent veterans in
tree planting as James Stewart of the
Elm wood Nurseries, Memphis (see what
he siys in Gardening, page 40, October
15, '93. As you are a«xecent subscriber
we mail you the issue containing the
article), and Prosper J. Berekmans, The
Fruitland Nurseries, Augusta, Georgia.
Mr Berekmans writes us:

"Norway and sugar maples are the
least desirable of the class for the light
soils of southwest Georgia. TheNorway
maple succeeds well in our clay soils, but
much better higher up the state. The
best of all maples which I would reconi-

52

• GARDENING.

Nov. y,

mend is the silver. Purple-leaved beech
is worthless south here, so far as retain-
ing the color of the foliage goes. Harh^
in the spiing the color is bright enough
but early in May it turns to a dingy
green, and furthermore it docs not grow
well except in rich clay soils. Other good
shade trees would be the box elder yAcer
Negundo). American white ash, the
cucumber tree (Magnolia acuminata),
the paulownia, the soapberry {Sapindus
warginatiis), maidenhair tree (Ginkgo
hiloba), and the Texas umbrella tree
(Melia Azedarach iiwbraciilifera)."

flflRDY SHRUBS IN OCTOBER.

The coloring ot the Japan maples is
very fine this fall. We have a very sturdy
variety called purpureum latifolium. but
on account of the very fine color it
assumes in the fall purpureum autumnale
would describe it better. Add to this its
crop of large purple andgreen seeds which
are still hanging on it and giving it a very
distinct appearance.

We have in bloom the hardy Erica
tetralix, white; B. ciliaris, pink, and long
in bloom; E. vagans carnea, light pinlj;
and Menziesia purpurea, a gem, it has
been in bloom forthree months, andit ap-
jjears to be quite hardy here.

The fertile form of the sea elder or
groundsel-tree {Baccharis halimifolia) is
ver3' conspicuous because of its heavy
crop of long, white pappus. It has been
full o1 its white fluff for a month or more
and will last the month out.

Hypericum multifforum has some new
flowers again— a very valuable point.
.Although we have had this valuable
shrub for years it is only now that it is
beginning to be called for much.

J. R. Trumpv.

Kissena, L. I., Oct. 24, '94.

ADVICE ABOUT SHRUBS.

W. P. W., Flushing, N. Y., has a place a
little less than an acre and there is an
irregular belt of shrubs consisting of
thirty-four kinds and several plants of a
kind planted near the fence. "They have
been planted several years and are now
too large and close together. What new
ones can I add, and which of the old ones
would you advise me to remove? How
far apart should they be planted? I en-
close a sketch showing how they arc
arranged and the different varieties."

.\s this is a case that should be seen to
be intelligently dealt with, we have ad-
vised our correspondent by mail to ask
Mr. Trumpy of Kissena, who lives in
Flushing, to call and see them. Mr.
Trumpy, on the spot, could give him more
pointed advice in twenty minutes than
we could, without seeing the shrubs, on a
ream of paper.

Probably this may be, like most other
crowded plantations, not a case of cut-
ting out the larger and more overcrowd-
ing plants so much as a reaiTangement of
the whole plantation. In making planta-
tions of shrubs we should draw a plan
and on it indicate the position of every
tree and shrub we wish to remain perma-
nently just as we would trees in an
orchard; for immediate effect however, we
may interplant other shrubs and orna-
mental plants between the permanent
ones, but cut away or dig out these
supernumerary bushes just as soon as
they touch the pennanent ones. Then
there are lilies and other bulbous plants
and hardy perennials to stop up all tem-
porarj' gaps.

How far apart to set shrubs is very un-
certain because in shrubbery we seldom
set many plants of one kind in a row as

we would currant bushes, we plant in
groups, in clumps, irregularly, often
several kinds together, and all for a pleas-
ing effect. Three feet apart may be
enough for daphnes and yuccas, four feet
for azaleas, five feet lor Deutzia gracilis,
six feet for Berberis Tbunhergii, seven feet
for Deutzia crenata and weigelias, eight or
nine feet for lilacs and mock oranges, ten
to twelve feet for Pyrusfloribunda and so
on. Now everj'one of these distances is
misleading and apt to do mischief. Most
all of us have seen single plants of rhodo-
dendrons eight to twelve feet across, but
who, in planting a rhododendron bed
would ever set the plants eight to twelve
feet apart? We wouldn't. We would plant
far thicker and later on thin out the
plants, or lift and reset e^ery plant in the
bed, placing them farther apart than they
were before.

The Hybrid Catalpa.— J. B., Michi-
gan, asks: "Is the hybrid catalpa from
Japan a verv hardy tree? Some claim
that it will stand 40° below zero. Will
it grow more compact than the common
catalpa?" We presume you mean Teas'
hybrid catalpa. If so it is an American
tree raised from seed of C. Kcempferi, a
Japanese species, supposed to have been
fertilized bj* one of our American kinds.
Yes, it is verj' hardy, and a strong fast
growing tree of somewhat compacted
proportions. Plants raised from seed
often differ considerabh' from each other.

Creepi.ng Snowberry [Cbiogenes his-
pidula).—\ have found it growing in a
cranberry marsh under some small spruce
trees. The plant formed a thick green
mat covering a space 9 feet in diameter.
On pulling up a handful of the vines I
found a number of small pure white cran-
berry-like berries. These were full of
small seeds all through the pulp, and they
had a pronounced flavor of wintergreen;
indeed the whole plant had. M. N.

Chippewa Falls, Wis.

Greenhouse and Window.

REX BEOONIflS.

The true Rex begonia is one of the com-
monest and still one of the best of all
begonias. It comes from Assam. But it
is not alone in its gloi-j'; since it came
into cultivation, and especially of recent
years, it has given rise to a beautiful and
showy race of offspring that have now
become very popular.

Everybody loves these begonias. As
window or greenhouse plants they are
very apt and beautiful, and easy to grow
and long lived, and in a faintly shady
place in summer they are at home in the
flower garden. As basket and bracket
plants too they are fine. I find they are
especially fitted for house culture and ex-
cellent plants for amateurs to grow.
They do remarkably well with us in warm
shaded greenhouses, in the cool ferneries,
and in the ordinary greenhouse without
any shading with a temperature of 60°.
The compost we grow them in consists of
'/2 loam, Vi well rotted manure, '4 leaf
soil, and a litfle sand mixed with it.

We have used these begonias in large
quantity all through the conservatories
in Schenley Park, and in beds foroutdoor
show, and must say they have been very
pleasing. The accompanying illustra-
tions (from the Botanical Guide to the
Phipps Conservatories in this park) were
engraved from photographs taken here
of the leaves of some of the finest new
varieties of Rex begonias which took the

first premium at the World's Fair at
Chicago last year. Among them there
are some, for instance albo picta, Caro-
Unixrolia,compta and smaragdina, which
are distinct from Rex.

Fig. 1. 1, Begonia Rex; 2, Alice White;
3, Anna Domer; 4, Pauline Rothschild;
5, .\rgentea Guttata; 6, Mrs. Shepherd;
7, Mme Lionette; 8,Mirabunda; 9,Mme.
Leboucq; 10, Carolinijefolia, a species
from Mexico, and Albo-picta.

Fig. 2. 1, Flora Hill; 2, M. Paraert; 3,
Louis Closson; 4, Souvenir de Joseph
Main; 5, Nickel Plate; 6, Smaragdma; 7.
Lady Slade; 8, Clementina; 9, Diadema;
10, Conchfefolia; ll,Feastii; 12,Compta,
from Brazil. A. W. Bennett.

Sup't of Scheulev Park, Pittsburg, Pa.,
October 15, '94.

A PIT TO WINTER PLANTS IN.

1 am anxious to store carnations, holly-
hocks, geraniums, etc., in a pit tbis win-
ter. Will you please give me instructions
how to make, drain, pack and manage a
l)it? Subscriber.

Annapolis, Nova Scotia.

A Pit is a sunk.unheated greenhouse or
frame. It may be large or small, and
with a path inside or not. The deeper
the pit is the warmer it is in cold weather,
on the other hand, the damper it is. The
situation for the pit should be warm,
sheltered from the north and northwest,
and if possible facing the south or south-
east, and it should be on level or ri ing
ground, and neverin a hollow. If it is to
be large enough to walk in have it 6V2 to
7 feet deep between the bottom and the
rafter, and 8 or more feet wide; it should
be sunk 5 feet under ground, and 1% to 2
feet at front to be above sun line, and 3' 1;
to 4 feet at back above ground. The
sides should be of plank, with posts 3 feet
2 inches apart, and the rafters 3x4inches,
notched ac the ends so as to form braces
between the posts, for the pressure of the
banks of earth against the plank sides is
great. Nail a 1^2x2 inch strip along the
middle of the rafters to keep the sashes in
place. Cover the pit with 3x6 feet sash
along the front; this will leave about 3
feet at the back uncovered, cover this
with boards rendering them watertight
by overlapping, matching, or covering
them with "roofing," and arrange them
so that the sashes will slip up under them
two or three inches, making all water-
tight and comparatively airtight. The
steps to go down into the pit should be
at the east end, and covered as one would
an outside cellar door. The door should
be of boards and only wide enough to let
a ])ersonentercomfortably. Asthesashes
are meant to slide down or lift off at will
the plants are put in and taken out from
above, rendering a large door unneces-
sary. The path maj- consist of a plank
laid along the middle of the house, or
rather a little nearer the back than the
middle. The staging should consist of a
shelf at front and back, at or a little
under ground level for growing plants,
and underneath those may be other
shelves on which to stand lemon verbenas,
fuchsias, and other shrubby and bulbous
plants at rest; and on the floor eannas,
tuberous begonias, and many roots could
be stored. Above the ground outside pile
a bank of coal ashes or earth against the
pit or set a well trodden bank of tree
leaves there, covering it with earth or
strawy litter, with a board above all to
keep it dry.

-■Vs a protection against frost in winter
the pit should be covered over with mats
.nnd shutters, sedge or straw; and in the

i8g4-

GARDENING.

53

FIG 2

LEAVES

event of very severe weather one or two
kerosene lamps may be lit and set into
the pit. But avoid raising the temper-
ature above 4-0'. Keep the plants a little
on the dry side Never spill an unneces-
sary drop of water in it. Uon't syringe
or 'sprinkle the plants overhead. Don't

but

coddle the plant
fine weather.

The drainage should be perfect
as you would a house cellar.

eutilate freely in
Drain

Pl.\.nts.— J. h. S.,New La
s to know what plants

grow in an east facing window. Chinese
and obconica primroses, cinerarias,
o.\alis, all manner of bulbous plants like
hyacinths, narcissus, tulips, palms, ferns,
cacti, ivies and many others. The fore-
noon sunshine is good for plants, in fact
callas, carnations, marguerites, and Zan-

54

GARDENING.

Nnv.

zibar balsam will bloom fairly well in an
east window, but of course most free-
flowering plants like a south-facing one
better. In our east window too plants
requiring no direct sunshine as ferns and
palms will also flourish if kept back a lit-
tle from the glass.

Mrs Langtry; Ella Walz. creamy white,
and J. H. Troy, but an early white needs
to be Tcry good to displace some of our
older favorites such as Ivory or Miss
Kate Brown, the latter being one of the
verv earliest seen in the market.

CRINUM KIRKII WON'T BLOOM.
M. N., Chippewa Falls, Wis., writes;
"I have a Crinum Kirkii that has not
flowered although I have had it three
years. When I got it the bulb was about
thirteen inches in circumference; it is now
only nine inches in circumference and con-
tinually growing smaller, the outside be-
comes dry and peels off", while the bulb
makes a good vigorous leaf growth and
there are three offsets of about one and
one-half inches in diameter. The bulb
was in a 7-inch glazed pot. Can you tell
me how to treat it to make it flower?"

I would suppose by wording of inquirv-
that the crinum has been kept constantly
in a pot. This is a thing I never do.
neither would I use painted pots. I
would suggest that the bulb be allowed a
comparative rest, and in early spring
plant it in the open ground in full sun-
shine and in good, well drained soil, and
I feel convinced that in a short time this
effort of reproduction by bulbs will be in
great measure discontinued and blooming
will fommence. I turn out into the open
ground the whole of our collection e->'ery
spring and have good plants and free
blooming ones. J. Gir.ney.

Missouri Botanical Garden, St. Louis.

EARLY CflRYSflNTHEMUMS.

While a majority of our larg st and
most showy chrysanthemums are found
among mid- season or late varieties orig-
inators are now adding largely to the
early forms. These are of especial interest
to amateur gardeners, since their flower-
ing season is early enough for them to
develop out of doors or without artificial
heat. Although during a clear bright
autumn we have kept up a bright show
of outdoor chrysanthemums until close
upon November, with no other protection
than a canvas curtain put over them at
night, many of the well known show va-
rieties are too late for this. Cultivators
are now turning their attention towards
producing earlier forms, and some very
beautiful varieties are the result.

Miss M. M. Johnson, the variety here
illustrated, is a new one, exhibited belore
a committee of the Xational Chrvsanthe-
mum Society October 20. It is a very
shapely Japanese incurved flower of ro-
bust habit, a perfect golden yellow, and
unusually good for so early." This orig-
inated with a western grower, who is
also the originator of Mrs. E. G. Hill, a
very beautiful jjearly pink, extra large
and very early; this latter flower was
first shown last year, but disseminated
this season. Among other new early
chrysanthemums are Sunrise, very large,
incurved, light terra cotta withbuff" re-
verse, the earliest of the reds; Daybreak,
an exquisite soft pink, fading to pale
lemon in the center; Princeton, bronzy
yellow, flowers about eight inches across,
and Rosa Kupferlc, magenta pink, a large
flat flower, in shape resembling Viviand-
Morel. When we saw^ this flower for the
first time last year we thought the ma-
genta tinge would be against it, but
every lady who saw it fell in love with it
at once, and the variety seems likely to
become a general favorite. There are
several new early whites, among them
White Cloud, somewhat in the stvie of

HoTitKD IN Winter.— "Ign
Dunkirk, N. Y., writes: "I have had a
hotbed and cold frame made and would
like to know (1) can I grow anything in
the hotbed this winter, or not till spring?
2. What should I plant and when?" 1.
.A hotbed as a hotbed is of no use to you
in winter. But you can use it as a cold
frame in winter, say for lettuces, parsley
or spinach, or to winter pansies, anem-
ones, daisies, polyanthuses, forget-me-
nots or the hke in for planting out in
spring, and when you empty it of its
winter crop use it as a hotbed. AtDosoris
we treat about a hundred sashes in that
way. 2. Don't start a hotbed till you
are prepared to take care of it, say about
the middle or end of March. W'e who are
accustomed to them may, in the event of
open weather, start one in February, but
early hotbeds are laborious undertakings.
Sow seeds of early cabbage, cauliflower,
lettuces, tomatoes, egg plants, and pep-
pers. Also slow growing flower seeds as
lobelia, cockscomb, ageratum, vinca and
the like. Marigolds, zinnias, stocks and
asters do well if not sown till the first of
April.

Begonia Rex.— E. L. H., Brooklyn,
sends us a Rex leaf with a rotted spot
near the middle of it and decaying parts
near the edges. The spot looked as if it
might be caused bj' wet, a leaf or petal
from another plant falling and decaying
on it, or scalding; scalding, wet or cold
might cause the other defects. But we
did not get material or information
enough to enable us to give a clear
opinion. Presuming it might be a fungus
blight we submitted it to Dr. Byron D.
Halsted for examination. He reports
"The begonia leaf bears no fungus that is
criminal, and I am not able to find anv
cause for complaint. Sometimes nema-
tode worms are at the bottom of begonia
blights." Rigid cleanliness is to a con-
siderable extent a preventive against
these microscopic worms.

A Greenhouse in W'inter — M. T. T.,
Geneva, N. Y., asks "What is the most
profitable thing to grow in a greenhouse
in the winter time?' It is impossible to
tell. Ten thousand greenhouse men in
the country to-day are asking themselves
that very'question, and by actual prac-
tice trying to solve it. Some are growing
roses, others carnations, others miscel-
laneous plants, grapes, tomatoes, cucum-
bers, lettuces, cauliflower, radishes, young
nursery stock and so on. Some people
are making money in the greenhouse busi-
ness, lots are making a bare living only,
and others losing money. A great deal
depends upon the man running the green-
house. But if you take up any special
branch of greenhouse work and we can
aid you we shall be glad to.

What Ails the Cyclamen?— A. B. O.,
Ingersoll, Canada, sends us a cyclamen*
leaf and writes: 'The leaves have been
turning yellow and curling up, and 1
can't make out what the trouble is."
The sample sent is a well developed,
sturdy leaf, but all over the underside it
shows traces of thrips. Wash the under
sides of the leaves with a sponge and
tobacco water; or have a pail or old but-
ter tub filled with tobacco water, and dip
the leaves into that but not the roots; or

chop up some fresh tobacco stems and
place them thickly on the bench the cycla-
men are standing on, or fumigate the
greenhouse three or four times in close
succession, say every second day.

Keeping Seeds OVER Winter. — A Michi-
gan subscriber asks: "How should flower
and garden seeds be kept over winter— in
tight boxes or bags?" It is immaterial
providing they are well ripened and kept
perfectly dry. We would not like to keep
them in airtight boxes nor in a very high
or a very low temperature, anywhere be-
tween 30° and 60° is good. Providing
seeds are perfectly dry and well ripened a
few degrees of frost won't hurtthem; you
have good evidence of this in corn out in
the crib over winter, it is perfectly good
for seed in the spring. The same with
Lima beans, and with seeds of man^-
other warm country plants.

Pleroma elegans.— In answer to W.
E P., Aurora, Ont. The unhealthy con-
dition of your plant is due to some local
cause we have no means of knowing. It
is a very easily grown greenhouse plant
requiring warmth in winter and a thin
shade, and it maybe plunged out of doors
in summer in such a place as you would set
fuchsias or begonias. As a window plant
it needs care. Don't give it very much
water but never let it get dry. If it con-
tinues dropping its leaves, if the plant is
big enough head it down to within a few
inches of the ground and let it branch
out again.

Roses.

FOLyflNTflfl ROSES IN CflLIFORNIfl.

The Polyantha class of roses is rapidh-
becoming popular with us. The smaller
sorts such as Paquerctte, Little Pet and
George Pernet make pretty dwarf hedges,
being evergreen and almost perpetual
bloomers. Nothing can be more appro-
priate as a surrounding to a plat of
stronger growing roses. But the most
valuable of the tribe, at least for this
locality, are Cecile Brunner and Perle
d'Or. These two sorts are almost iden-
tical except in the color of the flowers^
the former being a La France pink with
sometimes a touch of salmon, and the
latter orange fading to almost pure white,
a good deal in the way of William Allen
Richardson. Though often described as
dwarfs they are in reality' stalwart grow-
ers, often in one season making canes the
size of one's thumb that rise from the
ground to the height of five or six feet.
On the tops of the high branches the
flowers came in corymbs but on the low
and side shoots they come singly on long
stems, excellent for cutting, and it is for
decorating and tte making of set pieces
that these flowers are mostly used. They
also make up splendidly into boutonnieres,
the buds being small but fine both in form
and color. For commercial purposes
these roses have been grown almost ex-
clusively out of doors up to the present
time, but this season many have been put
under glass.

From cuttings the3' grow readily with
us in the open field. A florist here put in
some three thousand cuttings of Cecile
Brimner and something less of Perle d'Or
about the first of last December, and the
plants are now on an average two feet in
height and have been yielding flowers for
the last two months" in immense quan-
tities.

Clothilde Soupert, the favorite at the
east, is of little value here out of doors.

iSg4-

GARDENING.

55

Marie Baumanii, Her Majesty, Margaret
Dickson, Alfred Colomb, Charles Lefebvre,
Mcrveille de Lyon, Gustave Piganeau,
lUienne Levet, Baroness Rothschild,
Suzanne M. Kodocanachi, Francois Mi-
oliclon, Uupuyjamain, Louis Van Houtte,
Iv.ul of Diifferin, Marquise dc Castellane,
I'rincc Vrthur, General Jacqueminot, Fer-
ihii Hid (Ic Lesseps. Horace Vernet, Duke
lit Wellington, Camille Bernardin, Com-
Usse d Oxford, Lady Mary Fitzwilliam
(H T) Duke of Edinburgh, E. Y. Teas,
Mane \erdier, Dr. Andry, Le Havre,
Mane Fingei , Heinrich Schultheis, Fisher
Holmes, Caioline Tcstout ill. T.), Duke
of Teck, Captain Christy (H. T.), Prince
Lannlle de Rohan, Marie Rady, Abel
Larriere, Victor Hugo, Beauty of Wal-
tliam. Pride of Waltham, Jeannie Dick-
son, Xavier Olibo, Star of Walthani,
Mine V Verdier, Reynolds Hole, Duchess
ot Bedford, Mme. EugeneVerdier, Duchesse
dc Vallombrosa, Countess of Roseberj-,
\ lolet Bouver, Comte Raimbaud, Mar-
i. hioness ot Londonderry, Charles Darwin ,
S[i Rowland Hill, Duchesse de Morny,
Mme Isaac Pereire (B.), Marchioness of
1 lufferin, Senateur Vaisse, Vicomtesse
I olkestone (H. T.), Monsieur Noman,
\uguste Rigotard, Marguerite de St.
\mand, Victor Verdier, Magna Chai-ta,
\lphonse Soupert, Dr. Sewell, Duke of
I lie and Mis. Paul.

NEW EARLY YELLOW CHRYSANTHEMUM MISS M M JOHNSON

It grows well enough and produces a
profusion of buds, but they rarely open
and the bud has no beauty. Not one in
a hundred will develop into a good open
flower. So this sort seems destined to
unpopularity with us. A new seedling
from Cecile Brunner is just now being
watched with a good deal of interest, but
it is too soon to pronounce upon its
merits. It will take anoth r season to
fully test what now ajjpears full of
promise. ■ H. (1. P.

Fruitvale, Cali brnia.

ROSES FOR BUFFALO, N. Y.

J. D. W. asks us to name some of the
best everblooining roses to plant in a
climate like that of Buffalo, N. Y., that
will stand the winters without any espe-
cial winter protection; and when is it the
best time to plant?

.\s it is now so late in the year you had
better wait till spring, and thin plant
carlv. The following varieties do very
well" with us:

Baron de Bonstetten, dark crimson.

Sydonie, rose color.

General Jacqueminot, crimson.

Mme. Trotter, bright red.

La Reine, glossy rose.

.Anne de Diesbach, carmine.

Prince Camille de Rohan, deep velvety
crimson.

Climbing Victor Verdier, bright rose.

Coquette des Alpes, white, ting d blush.

Perle des Blanches, white.

Magna Charta, pink, tinged carmine.
W. I Palmkk & Sox.

Ross Growers, Buffalo.

SELECT ROSES,

In the Journal of Horticulture an emi-
nent rosarian gives the following list of
hardy h\-brid perpetual roses for general
cultivation. With the exception of A. K.
Williams and maybe one or two others
the roses named all do very well in this
countrv.

Light v.\rietihs.— Mrs. John Laing,
rosy pink; Mme. Gabriel Luizet, light sil-
very pink; Mcrveille de Lyon, white; Bar-
oness Rothschild, light pink; Marie
Finger, light salmon rose; Pride of Wal-
thani, light salmon pink, shaded violet;
and Jeannie Dickson, soft silvery rose.

Mediu.m reds.— Ulrich Brunner, cherry
red; Etienne Levet, carmine rose; Francois
Michelon,deeprose reverse silvery; Dupuy
Jamain, bright cerise; Marquise de Cas-
tellane, clear cherry rose; Camille Ber-
nardin, lightcrimson.Comtesse d'Oxford,
carmine violet; Heinrich Schultheis, pink-
ish rose; and Alphonse Soupert, bright
rose

Reds. — A. K. Williams, bright carmine
red; Marie Bauniann, soft carmine red;
Alfred Colomb, bright carmine red; Gen-
eral Jacqueminot, bright scarlet crimson;
Ferdinand de Lesseps, shaded crimson;
Duke of Edinburgh, scarlet crimson; E.
Y. Teas, bright red; Dr. Andry, bright
crimson; Fisher Holmes, shaded" crimson
scarlet; Victor Hugo, dazzling crimson,
shaded; Senateur Vaisse, bright crimson;
Duke of Fife, bright crimson; and Eari of
Pembroke, velvety crimson edged with
bright red.

D.\RK v.\RiETiES.— Charles Lefebvre,
purplish crimson; Louis Van Houtte, deep
crimson, shaded maroon; Earlof Duflerin,
dark crimson, shaded maroon [a splendid
rose here, everybody should grow it. —
Ed.]; PrineeArthur, bright crimson; Duke
of Wellington, bright shaded crimson;
Prince Camille de Rohan, crimson ma-
roon; Sir Rowland Hill, deep velvety
plum; and Duke of Connaught, deep vel-
vety crimson [hasn't proved first-rate
with us -Ed.].

Tin; hkst exhibitio.\ hardy roses.—
The same author gives a list of 73 roses,
which were the best and most frequently
shown at Ihe various exhibitions held in
Great Britain this year. They are given
in their order of merit:

Mrs. John Liing [grand in this country
too.— Ed.], Mme. ('Tabriel Luizet, La
France (H. T. ). T'Irich Brunner, A. K.
Williams [unsatisfactory with us.— Hn.],

The Washington Roses.— The white
Washington (Tea) and the red Washing-
ton roses are grand with me now, I have
rows of both of them just a mass of im-
mense blooms. J. Stewart.

Memphis, Oct. 22, '94-.

Insect Pests.

THE INDIAN CETONIfl.

We have a number of young pear trees
on our place one of which is apparently
dying. The bugs, which I send you sam-
ples of seem only to attack this one tree
and do not trouble any other. I have
tried various remedies, such as spraying
with slugshot, etc., with no effect. I have
also picked them off each day and
destroyed them, but shortly after the tree
is as full as ever. They seem to pierce the
bark and feed on the sap. E. B.

White Plains, N. Y.

The insect occuring on a pear tree, as
above stated is a beetle belonging to the
Scarabaeidfe, bearing the name of Euro-
myria Inda. For want of a better com-
mon name, it is known in entoinologieal
writings, as "the Indian Cetonia"-India
having been given as its habitat by Lin-
n^us when he described it more than a
century ago, and "Cetonia," referring
to the genus Cetonia. under which it was
for a long time classified. It has long been
recognized as injurious to ripe fruits from
its habit of eating into them, sometimes
to the core. The spring brood has shown
a fondness for the sa\> of the sugar maple.
The statement given abovethat it pierces
or gnaws the bark of ])ear trees appar-
ently for feeding on the sap,. seems to con-
firm' an account given some j-ears ago,
but ([uestioned at the time, that it
gnawed the bark of apple tr. es for the
sake of the sap — the trees looking as if
they had been attacked bj' mice or rab-
bits. Why the beetles should infest onlv
the one tree in the orchard, may perhaps
find its explanation in that the sap of the
"dying" tree from its diseased condition,
may be more attractive to itor isexuding
from portions of its trunk, .\nother bad

56

GARDENING.

Nov. y,

habit of this beetle is that of burrowing
beneath the husks of com in the field and
eating away the kernels while in the milk
from the tip downward for several inches.
In years of unusual abundance of the
beetle, these injuries have been quite
serious in some sections of the country.

We can do but little against this insect
except reducing its numbers by hand-pick-
ing, or by jarring it from the branches of
trees when occurring thereon. Only in oc-

leg, and posteri.

casional years does it become annoyingly
abundant. The present year it is being
frequently reported from New York local-
ities. ^ J A. LlNTNER.

INJURIOUS BEETLES.

I send you to-day two kinds of beetles.
The nutmeg colored one is either the pre-
decessor or successor of the borer which
is so destructive to my Norway maples,
beech and birch trees. I find daily a
cluster of from five to fifteen of these
beetles on the trunk of the trees, espe-
cially the Noripay maple, either near the
ground or a few feet up. The borer is
like the fruit tree borer.

The striped beetle I saw coming out of
holes in the trunk of the common maple
and I find it on shrubs, M. F. M.

Detroit.

The "nutmeg colored beetle" of the
above communication, the larva of which
is thought by the writer to be destructive
in its burrowing operations in Norway
maple, beech and birch, is the "Indian
Cetonian," Euromyia Inda (Linn.). It
is the same as noticed in my reply to E.
B., White Plains, regarding an insect
aljounding on oneof his young peartrees.

The clusters of the beetle observed on
the trunks of the Norwav maple have

probably been drawn thither to feed on
the sap flowing from wounds in the bark.
If it can be shown that the "borers" ob-
served arethe larva;of this beetleit would
prove to be an interesting discovery, for
so far as I have knowledge its early
stages and habits arc unknown, and
therefore, a desideratum.

The "striped beetle" seen "coming out
of holes in the common maple," is the
locust borer, Cyllcnc robinirc (Forster).
It is one of our handsomest long-horned
Ijcetles in its velvety-black thora.x and

wing-covers, the former crossed by two
golden-vellow bands and the latter by six
waved or angulated ones. Years ago
this insect destroyed nearly all of our
locust tiees,but at the present its injuries
are not very noticeable. It is not known
to attack any other tree than the locust,
li the beetles'sent with the above inquiry
were taken while emerging from a hole in
a maple it is a singular circumstance, for
while the golden rods in autumn and
some other poUeniferous plants are vis-
ited by it for food, it should not be found
within a hole in a maple. There is an-
other beetle, the maple tree borer, Glyco-
biiis speciosus (Say)— of the same colors
and with similar markings as the above,
but of a larger size, which infests and
destroys the maples, and during the
month of August may often be seen de-
positing its eggs in crevices and holes of
the trunks. Has not the locust Cyllene
by some means been confounded with
the maple Glycobius? J. A. Li.nt.ner.

fl MflPLE TREE BORER.

From a subscriber, Milville, N. J., we
received some insects found sticking into
silver maple trees. The piece of bark
shows how the head remained stuck into
the hole. The hole did not seem to go be-
yond the bark.

The cavity within the l)ark of the silver
maple contained a small poi'tion of the
pupal case of one of themapletree borers,
^geria. acerni, Clemens, or the "maple
tree clear-wing." This insect is in some
localities, particularly in the Western

The sugarma

State ■•. very destructive to the soft and
sometimes to hard maples, by burrowing
through the sap-wood just beneath the
bark, and girdling them so that they die.
Where it is abundant, the trees should
be protected by a coating of whitewash,
or an occasional application of soft soap
during the summer months while the
winged insect is abroad for the deposit of

its eggs. J. A, I.INTNEK.

T«E SQUASH BUO.

F. A. W., Convent Station. N.J. .sends
some insects, and asks what's lluir name
and how to get rid of them.

The insects sent are the notorious
scpiash bug, Annsa tristis (DeGeer), in
their mature and ])upal stages — the
smaller ones with wing-pads only (unde-
veloped wings) being the pupa-. All
squash growers are familiar with the-
harm done by this insect.

The best remedies for it arc believed to
be the following: The iii-Mct p^^TS the
winter in concealment in ii-.|irik,i stage,
and generally comes all! 'Mil h.un its hid-
ing places toward the l:il in |Mit ..I June.
If about Ihi.-s time, or .i little before,

pieces of bark, chips, bits of wood, or
pieces of board, be laid on the ground
near the hills, the hibernated bugs will
hide beneath them when not feeding or
depositing eggs. The "traps" should be
lifted and examined morning and evening
and all found beneath them killed. A
small pail containing kerosene will be
found convenient for dropping them in
and killing them. In addition to the
trapping, the underside of thelower leaves
should be examined at intervals of a few
days for the eggs, which are of a dull
orange color, flattened on their sides. As
they occur in clusters, the\' can easily be
detected and crushed by hand. By the
above means, the injuries of this pest can
lie greatly mitigated. J. A. Lintner.

Sc.\LE ON Greenhouse Plants.— G. S.,
Pendleton, Oregon, asks: ''What is best
means to overcome scale in a general
greenhouse? I have found nothing so far
except hand picking and that is almost an
endless job, where a large collection of
general plants is kept. It has troubled
our abutilons, palms and citrus varieties
principalh'. Fumigation is not practical."

Brushing it oflf with a small stiflish
brush and washing with soapy water and
a sponge is the safest method. Try Fir
tree oil, or Little's Antipest, using them
according to directions. Badly infested
plants aren't worth cleaning. Get up a
stock of clean young plants, then throw
the old ones away. Getting rid of scale
on greenhouse plants is time killing,
tedious work. Fumigating with tobacco
has no effect whatever on scale.

The Fruit Garden.

THE MUSCAT OF fllEXflNDRIft ORflFE.

What a beautiful and truthful picture
of my muscats you have got to be sure.
These two bunches were in the collection
of hothouse grapes exhibited by me last
year at Boston, when I obtained the gold
medal. That master of grape growing,
David .\llan, vi-as so pleased with them
that he carried them out to a photo-
grapher and had thtm photographed for

G.iRDENING.

The Muscat of Alexandria although one
of the oldest and commonest sorts is still
the best all purpose white-skinned green-
house grape iia existence. Perhaps if a
penson were restricted to one greenhouse
grape he would choose the Black Ham-
burgh, if to two he would certainly add
this muscat.

I start our muscat grape vines early in
March with a night temperature of 40°
to 50 % syringing the canes two or three
times a day and shut up the house early
to keep in some of the sunheat. As
growth advances increase the tempera-
ture to 65° at night, and allow it to rise
10° or 20° higher during the daj'.

When the vines come into flower let the
temperature range from 70° to 75° at
night, and 5° higher with the aid of fire
heat on sunless days; on bright days it
may rise to 90° if free ventilation is given.
But avoid cold draughts.

Wlicn the vines are in flower I take a
camel's hair brush and go over the
l)unclies three times a day, dusting them
with their own pollen, or better still, with
jiollen from some other variety, if it is a
free setting one, that I may havein bloom
at the time, .\fter the berries are set wc
use the syringe to wash off" the old flow-
i rs, but we do not svringe the vines again

1894.

GARDENING.

57

MUSCAT OF ALEXANDRIA GRAI

till after the fruit is ripe and cut. When
the fruit is well set I let the night temper-
ature drop to 65°.

Before thinning them I allow the berries
of muscats to get larger than those of
free setting varieties. By that' time give
a chink of front ventilation on fine days.
Scalding during the stoning period can be
avoided by leaving a little ventilation on
topand bottom, day and night, with a lit-
tle fireheat at the same time to keep the
air moving.

When the berries begin to color, leave
air on the house day and night, gradually
increasing it as the fruit gets riper and
better colored. We generalh' begin cut-
ting muscats about the last week in
.\ugust, cutting it as we need it for use
until the middle of November when what
is left is all cut off with a little piece of the
cane attached and put into the fruit room
where the ends of the canes are stuck into
bottles of water. In this way we keep
the grapes till Christmas.

We use water very freely in watering
the vines, and at all times even when the
fruit is ripe. As we keep the roots of our
vines close to the surface of the ground
should we let the surface get dry the fruit
would shrivtl, and after it shrivels no
amount of water will plump it up again.

If the vinery is glazed with Al glass it
will need no extra shading, but if the
glass is thin or of inferior grade and full
of blisters, a thin shading is an advan-
tage. The Madresfield Court black mus-
cat is a grape I think very highly of. As
you know the berries have a fault of
cracking when they commence to color,
but I find that that lasts only for a brief
season like scalding and can be overcome
in the same way as that disease.

George McWii.i,i.\.m.

1 he following is an answer to "A
Reader:"

By all means plant in the fall, and as
early as possible, vour plants will gain
almost a vear's growth bv it, that is if

they are in good, healthy condition when
received, and the ground in which you
plant them is not low enough to hold
water on in winter. Both gooseberries
and currants start togrow so early in the
spring that it is better to plant them in
fall than in spring. In planting, don'tcut
them hard back, simplv tip them, but cut
out the branches, leaving from three to
five to tach plant according to its
strength. They do not need covering in
winter but a good mulching of manure up
about them will help them. We some-
times have it as cold as 25° to 30° below
zero here, and I find both gooseberry and
currant bushes quite hard}'.

I would also plant raspberries now.
Cut the canes back to eighteen inches or
two feet and before hard Irost sets in lay
down the plants and cover them with a
good coating of soil.

Planting these things early in the fall
has been my practice for years and I sel-
dom lose a plant. John T. Temple.

Davenport, Iowa.

FRUITS FOR ARKflNSflS.

In G.vKDKNi.NG, page328,June 15, 1 note
the reqviest of A. L. C .\rkansas, for
varieties of fruit, etc. I would like to
call his attention to the various seedling
apples of that state. It would be hard to
find better or finerapples any where than
the Shannon, Crawford, Arkansas
Beauty, and Arkansas. The state is
called the seedling ground of the country,
not only of apples, but also other fruits,
notably the Howard County Seedling
pear and Arkansas Seedling peach.
The finest canned peaches I ever ate
were the White Heath, raised in Sebas-
tian county, .\rk., and I have eaten them
from New York, Delaware, New Jersey,
Michigan, Nebraska, Colorado, Califor-
nia and Kansas. In looking over the
annual report of the Arkansas State
Horticultural Society, 1893, X find in
strawberries Michel's Early stands first,
Crescent comes next, and when land is
too poor for any other sort Crv^tal City
will do. In blackberries Earlv Il.-irvest

and Snyder are those which do the best
and Brandywire in raspberries. Some
varieties of apples, like Ben Davis, which
is called in the west an apple of poor
(|uality assumes different texture and taste
on the soils of Arkansas, being of finer
grain and far richer, in fact it is a very
good apple. The Kieffei pear grows to
enormous size there. For (|uality the
Seckel stands first. It seems to "thrive
fine on the red lands of .\rkansas valley.
Nebraska. F. C. J.

JflPflNESE SWEET CHESTNUT.

The Japanese sweet chestnut, though
very little known, will prove of great
value to us. It is comparatively dwarf,
fruits early, and is far hardier than the
S]5anish species. There are trees of it here
not over six feet high, .\ith many burrs
on them now, and these trees are seed-
lings, not more than five j'cars old. I
have seen Ijurrs on them when mere
bushes of but three to four feet. Being
hardier than the Spanish is a great gain.
Hereabouts the Spanish has to become
acclimatized before it 'stands our winters
unscathed. On the other hand, of the
Japanese species as represented by hun-
dreds of seedling and other trees of it here
I have never known of one to be injured
in winter. It will probably succeed in
Western New York, and perhaps further
north. The nuts are as large as the
Spanish, but not the equal of our native
species in quality. Large size in fruits,
however, is very taking. As this Japan-
ese sort grows to but a small tree, it ren-
ders possible the growing of it in small
gardens, where room could not be given
to one of the larger growing sorts.

Philadelphia. Joseph Meeh.\n.

"MAIDEN" TREES.

The suggestion is now being made, and
indeed strongly urged, that orchards be
set with trees of only one, or at most,
two years growth from the bud, or the
root graft. So good an authority as T.
T. Lyon says: "Set maiden trees always"
—by' which I understand that yearlings
are meant. Twenty -two years ago I was
urging the same thing, when laboring to
induce the setting of iron-clad varieties in
northeastern Vermont. My idea, at
that time, was that the yearling trees
could be sold much cheaper, and people
could afford to buy and plant them in
larger quantities. But I found it to be
very difficult, in fact practically impossi-
ble to sell yearling, or even two year old
trees, with straight unbranched stems,
because they look so small as to produce
the impression that few planters would
live to see them come to any considerable
degree of fruitage. As for myself, I have
planted hundreds of them, and they are
now among the best trees in my older
orchards. Of course subsequent gi-owth
depends upon subseciuent care.

Vermont. T. H. Hoski.ns.

I have been a reader of C..\rde.ni.ni.
about a year * * and I expect to con-
tinue to be one as long as it is published
on its present lines, for I like it immensely.

Branch Co., Mich. Geo. D. Ford.

I like Gardening very much, it is so
thoroughlv practical. H. G. P.

September 24-, •9-1.

The Gardeni.\g I consider is the best
floral and gardening journal published.
C. W. P.

Shickley, Neb., Sept. 26, '94-.

58

GARDENING.

Nov. /,

eAIDENIN6

William Falconer, Editor.

Published -

THE GARDENING COMPANY,

Monon Building, CHICAGO.

Subscription Price. K.OO a Tear— 24 Numbers. Adver-
tising rates on apDlicatlon.
Entered at Clileago postofflce as second-class matter.
Copyright, 1894. by Tbe Gardening Co.

IRDENIXG, Glen Cove,

tlsements and other business matters
addressed to The Gardening Company. Monc
ing. Chicago, and all matters pertaining to the
department of the paper should be addressed
Edit -" _. _

S. Reynolds Hole (the Dean of Roches-
ter, England) is in this country on a three
months' visit. He is one of the greatest
rosarians living:, and wrote "A Book
about Roses." He is the man who grew
roses because he had roses in his heart.
Dean Hole loves roses and grows them
and everj'body loves the Dean.

White Sweet Peas. — Over in Europe
they are having considerable discussion
about which is the better white sweet
pea, Emily Henderson or Mrs. Sankej-.
Our advice is grow both. If you want one
for forcing try the former, a d the same
if for early outdoor flowers. For general
and late crop, though we will stick to
Mrs. Sankey till we know more about the
other, but we believe there is room fur
both.

Scented Geraniimp.— In the Garc/eners'
Magazine]. Hudsonnames the following:
Balsam scented (Pelargojiiam radula
major), nutmeg scented (P. fragrans),
peppermint scented (P. tomentosvm),
rose scented (P. capitatum), orange
scented (Prince of Orange), lemonscented
(P. crispuw), filbert scented (Shotteshani
Pet), turpentine scented (Lady Ply-
mouth), and almond scented (Prettv
Pollv).

GARDExrNG Is gotten up for Its readers and In their
Interest, and It behooves you. one and all, to make It
Interesting. If It does not exactly suit your case,
please write and tell us what you want. It Is our
desire to help you.

ASK ANY QuESTioxs you please about plants,
flowers, fruits, vegetables or other practical gardening
matters. We will take pleasure In answering them.

Send us Notes of your experience lo gardening In
any line; tell us of your successes that others may be
enlightened and encouraged, and of your failures,
perhaps we can help you.

SEND US Photographs or Sketches of your
Hewers, gardens, greenhouses, frulta. vegetables, or
horticultural appliances that we may have them en-

graved for gardexixg. CliAKLES A. Dana, thk iiw.xkr of

DosoRis — n McChire's Magazine for

CONTENTS. October thirty pages are devoted to an

. THE FLOWER GARDEN. interesting skctch of the life of Mr. Dana,

Igeramm.'aufrnf^rh'era^Vtc- '. '. t with several portraits of this noble man.

New Cannes at Boston ... 50 and views at Dosoris. His public life is

Lily disease ..... 60 the topic touched upon. It is as he is at

Weed™in"thLTwn'' .^ 50 ^°^^ that we know him, and a purer.

Lilies to bloom in August. . .51 grander, or nobler gentleman than he is

Wintering tender bulbs and tubers 51 we do not know. He has owned Dosoris

?he='"Me".^icaTgimrose;.^. :.:;.; i ; . ;i} for twenty years.

Large leaved magnolia and paulownia. .. . 51 Canna Sl'XSHI.XE,— Apropos of our

Hafdy'shnihrii'Sctobe'r- ' ' . . . 1 ti notes page 23, October 1, F. R. Pierson

Advice about shrubs ' =,i Co., Tarrvtown, N. \ ., the raisers of this

The hybrid catalpa . . 52 new canna write: "I tell von Sunshine

C.eepmgs^nowberry^^^^_^^^ ^^^^^^^^^. . . . 52 is a grand thing. It is the freest bloom-
Rex begonias (i'llus ) '. . . ' '. . . . 52 ing canna we have ever had; there is no

A pit to winter plants in '. . . . .52 canna that sends up flower stems with

Crimi^Ki?ki? won't bloom 1 the freedom that this does. It is away

Early chrysanthemums 54 ahead of Paul Marquant; it has a brighter

Chrv'santhemum Miss M.M. Johnson (illus.) . .55 color, better Howers, and is a freer

?e°gol'°R;r'"- •.• ■ .• • .■ it bloo.>"er. Vou may think ths incredible,

A greenhouse in winter '.'51 but it IS SO.

Polyantha roses in California 54 Pi rm-Fc Spt.t>s iv Pni ixirs iiipntpv

Roses for Buffalo, N. Y. . . . .55 t- LOW ER SEEDS I\ lOLlTICb. Anentei-

sclect roses . ■'•''. 55 prising candidate for Congress in a state

The Washington roses . i 55 where the ladies vote, recentlv applied to

The Indian cetonif(iihl's.7'"'' 55 ^he Secretary of Agriculture for a su, pl.v

Injurious beetles ... 56 of g"'' flower seeds to be distributed

Locust-tree borer (illus) . ...■..'■....; 56 among the ladv voters of his (the candi-

Th^squ^aslfbug"''^'' ''""'•' % date's) district 'with the view of influenc-

Scaleongreenhouseplanls ' .'..'!'..'!.. 56 i"g their votes in his favor. The honor-

THF. FRUIT GARDF.N.' able sccrctarv promptlv denied the re-

^u"^r^nts°%"|;'o'Sefr?er .*'""'' ' i . ' fl ^}^^^^ ^""^ ^"^"t t"^? ^''P'^'^.^^ ^ f^f^^

Fruits for Arkansas . . ,57 letter of reproof .\nd we sincerely hope

Japanese sweet chestnut '.....' ,57 the ladies will add to the reproof by re-
Maiden ''■^^.^jj|j-^;|^^j,_.j.^^j^j;^^j^Pj;^ 5" fusing t^ recognize the man who should

The vegetable garden ' . .59 descend to such base practice.

Egg plant ... ' ' ' 60

K;rpinga,^d'°p"^^?^rng hen manure- ' ' ! ! IS LANDSCAPE Gardeni.ng -The Ganlen-

Asparagus in win er . . . . . . ! ! 62 ers Chronicle gives the following advice

to a young g irdener: "If you intend to

C annas grow i!ir, or remain dwarf just follow landscape work as a means of get-
as they arc well fed or starved. Planted ting a live'ihood, you should place your-
in the open garden and unattended to as self under some landscape gardener of
regards watering in summer Star of '91 acknowledged ability, paying a premium,
grew 30 inches, Crozv 40 inches, Sarah You would require to have a knowledge
Hill 38 inches, Paul Mar<iuaiit 36 or of land surveying, plan drawing, and
thereabout; in speciallv manured and levelling, together with a thorough ac-
deeply worked ground Star grew to i rjuaintancc with trees, shrubs and garden
feet. Crozy to 5 feet, and Sarah Hill, Sec- plants generally, forestry and cognate
retaiy Stewart. Chas. Henderson, Bou- subjects, and more than all you should
vier, Cabos, Paul Bruant, and some have ideas— in fact, you should be an
others to 6 and 7 tcet, and Marquant artist or you will never be more than a
about G feet. copyist. "

Franchett's Ground Cherry or
Strawberry Tomato {Physalis Alke-
kengi Franchetti) is a nevi- and robust
plant recently introduced from Japan by
Mr. James Veitch. The old strawberry
tomato (P. .4/A-eien^') from Europe and
Asia, is not tincommon in our gardens
where as a cultivated or naturalized
hardy perennial we enjoy its cheerful red
calyces and fruits. This new comer is of
annual duration, and far more robust in
body than the other one and its fruits
and inflated calyces are much larger and
the crimson and yellow coloring more
pronounc d. We hope to get it among
seed no ve ties in the near future.

X Variegated Fireon-the-Mountain
Plant I Euphorbia heterophylla) . — Last
spring Mr. A. W. Smith of Georgia sent
us a variegated plant raised from seed
and another raised from a cutting. Both
grew well and we found very little differ-
ence between them as regards habit,
vigor or variegation; the leaves are much
blotched or marked with creamy j-ellow.
In late summer or autumn the tip leaves
become marked with a large scarlet
blotch in the middle, presenting a verv
noticeable effect. The variegated as well
as the green leaved ones have this vivid
marking. The green-lea%ed form has
nothing verv striking about it till it
"blossoms" in the fall, but the variegated
form is a marked plant all of the time.
Cnder date of October 19 Mr. Smith
sends us a lot of cut sprays of his varie-
gated plants, and they are very much
colored and very beautiful. He' writes:
"Xo number of sprays can give an idea of
the plant asitgrowshereoutdoors, where
it is three to four feet in height, and two
to three feet through, with its innumera-
ble markings in every shade of yellow,
green and scarlet. It is certainly the most
brilliant of all variegated plants, and I
feel well repaid for my five years' work in
bringing it to its present perfection."

TECflNICflL NAMES FOR PLANTS.

.\ few days since I was at Highland
Park, and one morning before he wasout
of bed strolled through the grounds of
Mr. \V. C. Egan. His place is decidedly
the best kept and most attractive so
far as la w n and floral effects go of any in
the town. Mr. Egan being out of busi-
ness has ample time to cultivate his
natural taste for horticulture. If he in
writing on the subject of plants, shrubs
etc., would call them bj' their plain barn-
yard American names amateur readers
of Gardening might catch on to his valu-
able suggestions and information.

Oeonomowoc, Wis. Edgemoor.

In Mr. Egan's writings, w henever there
is an accepted English name for a plant
he generally uses it, and he knows enough
not to manufacture an English name or
use a literal translation of the technical
one to designate the plant he is referring
to, because neither being in common use
would be comprehensible to the reader.
Mr. Egan is strictly an amateur in gar-
dening in heart, practice, and pen; his
beautiful garden and country home are
his own creation, and his vast array of
lovely flowers are, each and every one,
the children of his own loving care and
selection. Should he, or we, or anyone in
our columns w rite about plants that you
are not familiar with by the names given
please write to us about it. It is ourduty
to give our readers all the light in our
power and to make gardening easy,
])leasant, and interesting to them; and it
is (Mir wish ami aiiiliilion to do this.

i894-

GARDENING.

59

The Vegetable Garden.

THE VEGETABLE GARDEN.

This (Ic-partiiicnt wniitsstrict attention
at this time (if the vcir. Crops do no
good in tlu- grouncl now and the sooner
we get them iiii and taken earc of the bet-
ter. Hegin with the root crops as beets,
carrots, salsify and the like, then lift and
store the celery, and after that bury the
cabbages: Never handle vegetables in
wet or frosty weather, choose dry weather
for lifting and storing crops, be they
root crops like beets or carrots, or leaf
crops like cabbage and celery.

The Cell.^r. — People who haven't a
large supplj- or variety of vegetables over
winter generally store v. hat they have in
their cellars. For this purpose the cellar
should be cold, for vegetables will not
keep well in a warm furnace h> ated cellar.
If frost gets into the cellar, a little cover-
ing of ordinarilj- naoist sand or loam over
the roots will keep them safe, and some
Jiay, sti-aw, sacking or old mats laid over
'the cabbage or celery, and things stored
in barrels will keep them safe enough. If
there is no cellar room or the cellar is too
warm, and you have got a close shed or
bam, store the vegetables there and be
sure to cover them enough to compl tely
exclude frost. A barn cellar is an excel-
lent place to keep vegetables in. But if
you have neither cellar nor barn room
suitable or to spare, you will have to bury
the vegetables in the open ground and
dig them out as you want to get them
for use. This is best done by making a
pit for the root crops. Don't st' re the
roots in large bulk lest rot may set in
among them; put a ventilatihg tile into
every pit, even two or more if the pit is
large, and cover lightly to begin with but
enough to exclude both rain and frost,
and on the approach of severe weather
add largely to the covering either in the
way of more earth or a heavy mulching
of tree leaves. By using lots of leaves or
straw over the pits we can get at the
vegetables most anytime in winter, but
we should always take in enough at a
time to do for a week or a month accord-
ing to the weather, the harder it is the
more roots we sh: uld bring in to save us
opening the pits so often in hard weather.
Some people sink bottomless barrels into
the ground to near the brim, and near
together, filling one with turnips, another
with carrots, or parsnips, potatoes, and
so on, then put a common barrel top
cover on each, and pile leaves and litter
over them enough to exclude frost but not
so much as to cause them to heat and rot.

A vegetable house or pit is a very nice
thing to have. It is made much in the
same way as you would make an ice
house, but is seldom as deep under ground
or high above it; six and one-half or
seven feet high in the clear is a good size,
and while it needn't all be under ground,
it should be sunk two to three feet or
more to get the warmth of the subsoil to
temper the atmosphere. By piling leaves,
sedge or hay on top we can keep out any
amount of frost. Digging a six feet pit is
no joke especially in clay land, and there
is no need for it. Anyone who has seen
the enormous ranges of celerj' houses in
the market gardens at Arlington, Boston
where they are nearly above ground, can
readily understand how easy it is to make
a shallow sunk house frost proof. Deep
pits too have to be strongly built to pre-
vent them from caving in, also in stifT
land they must be kept dry overhead or
they become cisterns rather than vegeta-
ble houses.

Asparagus. — We cut the tops off close
to the ground and burn them up, then
spread a good coating of manure on the
beds, forking it in just deep enough to
cover it. Or the manure may be left on
the surface as a mulching.

Globe Artichokes.— The jjlants are
now strong leaved and green, but cut
them over, then place a shovelful of earth
or ashes on top of each hill to help shed
the water and on the approach of hard
weather lay a large armful of tree leaves
on the top of each plant and some sedge
or litter over the leaves to prevent them
from being blown away.

Jerusalem Artichokes.— They are per-
fectly hardy if left in the ground over
winter. We lift half the bed now, and
leave half, mulching part of it so that we
can get at it anytime we wish to in win-
ter. What tubers you dig up now should
be kept cool, stored in small bulk, and
not heavily covered to begin with, forthey
rot easily.

Beans.— We have saved both dry beans
for seed and hard f:reen ones of the Limas
for use in winter. We have a lot of Sep-
tember sown snap beans in frames, but
they will not last long. Clear away old
poles, storing them for next year's use,
and have the land cleaned, manured and
dug. it will save considerable labor in
spring.

Beets. If not up, get them out of the
ground at once. In topping them don't
cut off the leaves close into the flesh. Keep
each variety by itself, for mixed beets on
a plate don't look well; also keep each
sowing by itself, for the roots of the older
sowings are apt to be tougher and need
longer boiling than do the younger ones.
Store them in small bulk, and spread a
layer of moist earth or sand on top of the
heap to preserve the plumpness of the
beets.

Carrots.— They should be up, topped
and in heaps covered with their own tops
for a while, or stored in pits or cellars.
.As in beets, keep the different varieties,
and the roots of the several kinds sepa-
rate. Although carrots will stand a
sharp frost when growing in the ground,
after they are pulled, a sharp frost will
materially injure them, hastening their
decay. They are always nicer in winter
when covered with a moist sod, or a thin
layer of sand or loam is laid over them.

Cabbage. — If you have only a few heads
store them in the coolest part of the cel-
lar covering them with a little hay and a
piece of old matting or carpet. If you
have a good many bury them in a trench
on a dry piece of ground in the garden.
The way to do this is to throw out a
trench say eighteen inches wide and six
inches deep, and into this arrange two
rows of cabbages, heads down and root
stumps up; and the opposite stumps of
both rows leaning together till they
touch. Now throw the earth back up
against and over the cabbages burying
them four to six inches deep. Or if you
have a cold frame to spare heel the cab-
bages into it and so closethat their heads
press together, now keep them dry over-
head and hard frost out, and they will
keep nicelj' over winter.

Savovs are treated like plain cabbages.

Curled Kale should not be buried.
Lift it, dress off the lower leaves, then
heel it into a bed or frame as close as the
plants can well be packed, gathering the
crown leaves up together. Cover them
with some branches and sedge or leaves,
or with an empty cold frame.

Cauliflower.— Break the outer leaves
in over the "flower" to keep it safe from
frost. The plants showing flower but not

advanced enough to make usmg heads
before hard frost comes should be lifted
and planted thickly in a frame or into a
box of earth in a cool house cellar. If
moist at the root they will make good
enough using heads before New Years.

Celery. — We generally lift and store
our celery in the second week of Novem-
ber, but north of and inland from here we
should advise you to get it up at once. A
little frost won't hurt it but sharp frost
will. There are four ordinary ways of
keeping it over winter, namely out of
doors in the ridges where it grew by ad-
ding more earth to the ridges, and then
covering with tree leaves and litter to
keep them in place, enough to exclude
frost, second by lifting and planting them
close together in regular vegetable houses
or celery pits, this is when there is a large
quantity. Third, by lifting them from the
present ridges, and preparing narrow
deep trenches out of doors on dry land,
with a board each side; into this trench
set the plants, their roots on the moist
earth but their tops upright and uncov-
ered except for the covering afforded by
the plants being all standing up and close
together. Over the top of this trench is
placed a board A like cap to shed water,
for it is necessary to keep the plants dry
overhead, even if they are moist at the
root. Having the earth well banked
against the sides and on the top a heavy
layer of tree leaves frostiseasily excluded.
Fourth, where only a few hundred heads
are grown it is vei-y easily taken care of.
Get a packing box, or any other box 20
to 24 inches deep, but otherwise of an}'
ordinary size; bore a few holes in it about
eight or ten inches from the bottom for
air holes, and put in two or three inches
deep of moistish soil in the bottom. Now
take the celery, strip off any decaying
outer leaves, and then lay the plants into
the box, roots on the ground and heads
up and erect, and all close together till
the box is full. Keep it in a cool cellar
or frost proof shed, and keep frost away
from it, and don't wet itoverh ad. If one
box won't hold it all use two or more.

E.NDIVE sown about the middle of July
is in good form for using, large and leafy;
to blan.h it we tie the leaves up together
as one would a Cos lettuce. Or a piece of '
wide board or slate laid over each plant
will whiten the leavi s, but tying up is the
easiest. We are so apt to confound endive
with lettuce that we areaptto sow ittoo
late, lettuce is a two months' crop in
summer, endive a three months' one.
Save it from frost by lifting and storing
it close in a frame, or boxes in the cellar.

Horse Radish.— We leave it in the
ground, digging it as we want it as long
as there is no danger of frost locking the
ground, before hard winter weather sets
in however we dig up a lot, enough to
last through the winter, and store it in a
box or bin in a cool cellar orpit, covering
it with moi.st earth or sand to keep it
fresh and plump.

Leeks are much abused vegetables.
They are so very hardy that wc may lift
them and heel them in close together in
a row or clump, covering it with leaves
and brush enough to keep frost out to
allow us pull some leeks anytime wcwish
to in winter. Or we can set a bunch of
them into a box of earth in the cellar.

Lettuces are past outdoors, we must
now cut from frames or greenhous*. We
get 50 to 60 nice Big Boston heads from
a 3x6 feet sash. Wc fill every availalile
sash with lettuces at this time of year, the
plants are in all stages of growth from
newly planted to cutting size. Their
grow'th and succession are now regulated
i)v keeping warm or cool as the cases may

6o

GARDENING.

Not

warrant. While lettuces, especially young
plants will stand a good deal of' frost,
hard frost is quite injurious to heading
plants, therefore be on the safe side and
don't let frost get at your lettuces. Pro-
tect the frames by banking earth, ashes,
leaves or manure around them, and using
mats, shutters, sedge or other covering
over the sashes.

Mushrooms.— Before the beds come
into bearing the house, if need be, may be
kept a little warmer than at bearing
time, say 65°, bearing 55° to 60°. If pos-
sible, by covering the beds with hay or
straw keep them from drying out too
(juickly, and if they are inclined to be drj^
sprinkle the covering rather than the bed,
should the bed be dry, however, give it a
watering. Never spawn a bed till its
heat is on the decline, and at least under
95°. It is safe for beginners not to put
the loam coating over the beds till about
a week after they have been spawned.
Avoid draughts in your mushroom cellar.
Absolute darkness is not at all necessary
to the growth of mushrooms, but when
artificially considered, a steady tempera-
ture is. While six weeks is the set time
from spawning till bearing time, there is
nothing certain about it, indeed at this
time of year it often is two months before
a mushroom comes in sight. Continue to
collect fresh horse manure for new beds.
If you are an old hand at the business ex-
periment with difierent manures, etc., to
your heart's content, but if a beginner
stick severely to fresh horse manure. It
doesn't matter if there is a good deal of
straw in it providing the straw got well
wetted in the stable, but we have no use
for dry straw. In preparing the manure
have it equally moist but not wet, let it
get warm but never fire fanged or burned
and to save it from this it will have to be
turned frequently, say every second day
or every day; ind'eed before frosty weathe'r
we often turn it twice a day.

Parsley. — We keep a supply in frames
over winter. Most people lift a lot of
old roots and plant them closely in boxes
of earth placing these in a light part of
the cellar. By laying a few fir spruce or
pine branches over the outside parsley,
we can pick from it till Christmas.

Spi.\ach — From sowings early in Sep-
tember we have lots of good spinach out-
doors, the leaf maggots have been very
bad on the crop though. Bj' the time
hard frost sets in we will have plenty
spinach in frames. In severe weather the
frames should be well covered for hard
frost will hurt the crop. The outdoor
crop which is to remain in the ground till
next spring, we cover with a thin mulch-
ing of sedge about the same time as when
we do our strawberry beds.

Squashes.— It is all' very well to pile up
the squashes in the shed or elsevv'here
where they will be dry and away from
frost, before this, but 'now we want to
keep them warm if we wish to save them
through the winter. The market garden-
ers who have regular squash houses main-
tain a temijerature of 60° in them.

Salsifv, scorzonera and parsnips are
all pretty hardy, and keep well in the
ground over wi'nter. We lift say two-
thirds of them now, leaving the balance
in the giound till the first thaw of spring
when we lift them lor use. I'rtservc them
like carrots.

TuRNH'S of all kinds should be pulled
now, topped and stored as wc would car-
rots.

size but for shape, coloring and
it is a typical one. A year ago as for
twenty year's back Iputoutplantsof the
X. Y. Round Purple. I noticed one of the
plants bore fruit of a distinctly different
color and was much more prolific. Time
proved them to be much earlier also, so
much so that I decided to get seed of it if
possible. It ripened nicely and this year's
crop is from that seed. I have all the
while thought that the parent plant was
a sport from the N. Y. Round Purple. My
object in sending sample is to get yom-
opinion in the interest of the lovers of the
fruit. If you think it worth propagating
I would be glad to send you seed or to
any practical gardener you may suggest.
My experience with the' egg plant is it is
very fickle, some plants bearing well,
others none. I re member a fewj'ears ago
I had a row of eight fine plants and only
harvested one solitary fruit. Now these
are different. I have a patch of 20 and
almost everj' bloom seems to set fruit.
The plant which grew the sample sent
has already furnished nine of edible size.
There are many with two on a stem and
I saw one with three on a stem. How's
that? I think it is such a greatbcnefit to
he able to raise fresh seed every year.
Fresh seed as 3'ou know makes vigorous
plants and its impress is not lost until
frost nips them in the fall. Until last year,
I never could ripen the fruit sufficiently to
grow. I have one now (September'l2|
fully ripe, as 3'ellow as an orange.

Geo. D. Ford.
Branch Co., Michigan, September 12.

The fruit came by mail and reached us
in perfect condition. It was of longish
shape, and the color of its skin was pur-
ple marbled and suffused near the end
with a paler or whitish color. Next
night we had it for supper, and it was ex-
cellent. Mr. T. McCarthy of Providence,
and vice-president of the Society of Ameri-
can Cemetery Superintendents,"on his way
home from 1 heir convention at Philadel-
phia, staid with us that night, and he too
ate of it and declared "Why, it's splendid.
Yes, I will take a littlemore, if you please.
Do you know, it's the first egg plant I
ever ate? It just puts me in mind of a
Rhode Island clambake."

Its distinct color isnoadvantageexcept
in novelty, but its prolific nature andear-
liness in fruiting are decided advantages.
We grow lots of egg plants, year after
year, but we never had one bear a cluster
of three fruits. We shall be dehghted to
have a pinch of seed for trial next year.

By the way, comparatively few people
eat egg plant, and this is to be regretted
for it is a most palatable vegetable. We
are very fond of it and often have it both
stuffed, and fried in thin slices. When well
cooked it is fine.

EGO PLANT.

1 send by to-day's mail for your inspec-
tion a sample egg plant fruit. For eco-
nomic reasons the one sent is about half

OREENflOUSE TOIHflTOES.

In connection with the subject of green-
house tomatoes for an extra early crop,
I would advise W. G. B. to try Dwarf
Champion. The stocky character of this
variety is so well marked, that I cannot
believe, that had he selected it originally,
and given it only ordinary attention he
would not have had the trouble he men-
tions of his plants running to vine. The
merits of this variety should, I think be
more widely known. I like it so well that
I have grown it almost exclusively for
several years in my private garden for
which use I think in all respects it is un-
surpassed. Started in hotbeds at the
usual time I have found it very early, if
not the earliest. A friend of mine was
very successful this year in obtaining an
extra early crop from plants started

earlier in his hothouse. The only fault
came later in the season, when the fi-uit
developed a tendency to crack, and for
this reason did not stand shipping to
market as well as he could wish. [For
private use the Dwarf Champion is all
right, but its purplish color kills it in the
New York market. The smooth, round,
firm, bright Lorillard alwavs takes pre-
cedence.— Ed.] ' H. R. V.
Philadelphia.

KEEPING AND FREPflRING «EN MANURE.

Kindly let me know the proper way to
keep hen manure till ready for use. I have
been scattering about equal bulk of sandy
loam over it and keeping under shelter,
but some say the heap should be moist.
How would equal bulk of kainit (about
\\','o potash), acid phosphate (14%), and
hen manure and loam, all thoroughly
mixed, answer as a fertilizer for early
potatoes and melons? Inquirer,

Goldsboro, N. C.

A good way to keep poultrj' manure is to
mix it with equal parts of damp loam or
muck and to sprinkle over the mass a lit-
tle land plaster or kainit. About six
weeks before needed for use an excellent
concentrated compost may be made thus;

Poultry manure 1 part.

Cotton seed or dissolved bone meal, 1
part,

Dissolved S. C. rock (acid phosphate) 1
part,

Kainit, 1 part.

Spread the materials in the order named
in layers three to four inches thick and
buildthe heap about five feet high. Mois-
ten the cotton seed or bone meal with
water or liquid manure, or if convenient,
the cotton seed may be soaked for two
or three days before introducing into the
compost. Cover with rich loam or land
plaster and allow the completed compost
to stand for a month, when the heap
should be thrown over and the materials
thoroughly mixed. It is now ready for
use and mav be applied to early market
crops at the rate of from 1000 to 2000
pojnds to the acre. Build in a place
sheltered from storms and keep the mass
damp by the application of water or
liquid manures. Frank W. SKMn-RS.

GLflRK'S

fliitomalic
spRfty

PUMP.

Pumps from pall or
carried afield. Constant agita-
tion. Mne Bpray and one-q
ter material only requli

^'lclceIed

age. Cannot clog. No foot
fastenlog required, tl:
3 that. HEAD:

Cornell University

Poiitiac Novelty Works,

I'KNTIAI', llltll.

JAPAN PLUMS,

STANDARD PEARS,

and APPLE TREES,

D expires, tre

[S94- _

flytyiiin naniino,

For imperative reasons in favor of
Autumn planting of DECIDUOUS
TREES, and SHRUBS and RHO-
DODENDRONS and for catalogues
and planting plans, apply to

Parsons & Sons Co.,

Flushiii}";, New York.

GARDENING.

6i

100

HYACINTHS

— From Seed—

FOR 10 CENTS

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For p.Trticularsaddress
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62

GARDENING.

Nov. J_

flSPflRflOUS IN WINTER.

Asparagus can be obtained in winter
Ijy lifting the crowns from beds outside
and transferring them to frames or green-
houses where thev can get a temperature
of from 50° to 7&.

If plenty of manure can be had it can be
grown in hotbeds made in the usual waj-.
In doing so plenty of leaves can be used
with the manure to prevent the beds from
heating too rapidly and cooling too
quickly. Cover the surface of the hotbed
over with soil to a depth of about three
inches, and when the beds have declined
to about 65° without danger of them
rising an^- higher the asparagus crowns
should be planted.

Choose strong plants of not less than
three or four years old, and if they have
not been ci:t from the previous stnnmer ii
will be to their advantage; they should
he dug up very carefully to prevent their
roots getting broken, about the middle
of November, and at once planted in the
hotbeds already prepared for them. Place
the crowns close together an! spread the
roots out as straight as possible, and
cover them all over with light rich soil to
a depth of about four or five inches, care-
fulh working it in well between the roots,
(jive air to prevent the temperature rising
above 55° for the first two weeks, after
which time it can be increased to 60° by
night and 65° by day.

Should thej' need watering it should be
given *hem of the same temperature as
the air in which they are growing. The
heat in the frames will need to be kept up
by placing hot manure around the sides
from time to time. Fresh batches of
plants will need to be introduced if a
succession is desired. It can also be
grown on benches in grei'nhouses if the
same conditions as to temperature, etc.
are followed, and if one ortwo hot water
pipes can be arranged to pass under the
bed where it is planted they will ])rove
very beneficial to the asparagus. As it
takes from five to ten weeks from time of
planting to cutting fresh plants will be
needed every four or five weeks, and the
old ones can be discarded as Ihey cease to
be productive. T. Griffin.

Westbury Station, Long Island.

Trees PREPAID.

crow; thi-y
Mt/rUm. ST

SAFEARRIVALguar.

SHvcycMoverKALF.

You will benefit Gardening by men-
tioning it every time you write an
advertiser in these columns.

HORTICULTURAL BOOKS.

We can supply any of the following books, postpaid,
at the prices given.

How TO Grow Cut Flowers (Hunt I.
—The only book on the subject. It is a
thoroughly reliable work by an eminently
successful practical florist. Illustrated,
$2.00.

Greenhousc Construction (Taft) — It
tells the whole story about how to build,
and heat a greenhouse, be it large or
small, and that too in a plain, easily un-
derstood, practical way. It has 118
illustrations, $1.50.

Bulbs and Tuberous Rooted Plants
(Allen).— Over 300 pages and 75 illustra-
tions. A new work by a specialist in this
line. Tells about lilies, cannas, dahlias,
hyacinths, tulips; and all manner of bulbs
and how to grow them indoors and out-
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Mushrooms: How to Grow Them
( Falconer).— The only American book on
the subject, 29 illustrations. Written by
a practical mushroom grower who tells
the whole story so tersely and plainly
that a child can understand it. This book
has increased mushroom growing in this
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Success IN Market Gardening (Raw-
son). — Written by one of the most promi-
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crops are treated. Illustrated, $1.00.

The Rose (Ellwanger).— The standard
work on roses in thiscountry and written
from a field affording the widest experi-
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nities for comparison, and where every
variety of rose ever introduced is or has
been grown. $1.25.

Volume 1 of Gardening. — Bound in half
leather,393 pages, beautiful] v illustrated,
$2.25.

The Propagation of Plants (Fuller).
— An illustrated book of about 350 pages.
It tells us how to propagate all manner
of plants, hardy and tender from an oak
to a geranium, and describes every pro-
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sowing, etc , with everj- manipulation
pertaining to the subject It is the voice
of practical experience, by one of the most
brilliant horticulturists Hving. $1.50.

Manures (Sempers).— Over 200 pages;
illustrated. It tells all about artificial,
farmyard and other manures, what they
are and what they are good for, the dif-
ferent manures for the different crops and
the different soils, how to apply them,
and how much to use and all in such a
plain way that no one can misunderstand
it. The author is an active, practical,
horticultural chemist. 50 cents.

Dictionary of Gardening (Nicholson).
— .\n inimitable work. An encyclopsdia
of horticulture. It is the ready book of
reference for all cultivated plants, includ-
ing the most obscure genera and species
as well as the most familiar. It is stand-
ard authority on nomenclature. An Eng
lish work but as much appreciated here
as in Europe. Four vohmies. $20.00.

Fruits and Fruit Trees of America
(Downing). $5.00.

Fruit Garden (Barry). $2.00.

American Fruit Culturist (Thomas).
$2.00.

Small Fruit Culturist (Fuller). $1.50.

Gardening for Pi-ofit (Henderson).
2.00.

Practica Floriculture (Henderson).
$1.50.

On the Rose ( Parsons i $1 .00.

Truck Farming at the South (Oeniler).
$1.50.

Window FlowerGarden(Heinrich). 75c.

Ornamental Gardening (Long). $2.00-

We are prepared to furnish)any other book on any horticultural subject.
Please mention what you wish to get in this line.

... THE GARDENING CO.. Monon BuJIdinQ. GtiicaQO.

iS94.

GARDENING.

63

The Clipper I
Sash Bar

fi REENHOUSE

HEATERS,

^^

Wrought Iron Boilers Only,

THE FLAT TOP TYPE.

Devine Boiler Works,

OFFICE :

Dearborn St., CHICA(iO, U. S. A.

Standard Ventilating Machinery

KKCEIVED

ALL

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AWARDS

LAST

FOIK

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Opens sash
same height
at far end.

^'> DREER'S

GARDEN SEEDS

Henry A. Drear,

14 Chestnut St. Phil*.

HITCHINGS & CO.

Horticultural Architects and Builders

And Largest Maiiulacturers <»l
GREENHOUSE HEATING AND VENTILATING APPARATUS.

glpi|iiiifi;.^„.,,^

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The highest awards ri-cciM,lal (ht- \\..rM

Conservatories. Greenhouses, Palm Hous

Frame

SEND FOl K CENTS FOR

- ^ZZ Mercer Street, NEW YORK CITY

iir rot tiurticiiltural Architecture, Greenhouse

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itruction.

ISTKATKI) tATALO<il KS.

H. n. HOOKER COnPANY,

. . 57 and 59 West Randolph Street, CHICAGO,

GLASS FOR GREENHOUSES..^

Plate, Window and Art Glass, Paints, Oils, Etc.

Announcement to Florists.

announce the dlssolutl.

__ The SYRACli

and Conrad Breltsch

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tho fln

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The business will be conducted 1
CTOwlng demand for our (joods. Wei

^-- - .reparedtofill the lareest order on snort notice, uur latest improvea

Bt and most serviceable flower note In the market, and assuring you of
Improvements we solicit a continuance of your patronage In the belief

lam Dopffel

I heretofore, except on a larger scale to
J accordingly enlarged our plant and capacity and with

L price and In a manner satisfactory
Send for price list and samples and we tnow you will give us an order

SYRACUSE POTTERY CO., Office 403 N. Salina St., SYRACUSE, N. Y

WATER

For Your

GREEN HOUSE,

ROSE HOUSE,

NURSERY,

Conservatory, Lawn,

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oranyotherDurpose. HllT-A R

Send torlNuslraled Catalogue IIWl Hill

De LAMATER-RIDER and PUMPING
DeLAMATER-ERICSSON pypmr

PUMPING cNblNE.
ENGINE.

will pump water from shallow
streams or anv k.ud of well. Thev
can be arranged fur anv kind of fuel
Capacity 1. 500 to 30.0un gallons
ot water a day. according to size.

"he De Lamater Iron Works,

87 South Fifth Ave..
NEW YORK. ;N. Y.

Standard Flower Pots.

10 per cent, off for cash with order. Special dis-
count on lartre orders. We carry a large stock on
hand of good strong pots.
PRICE LIST OF STANDARD POTS, any number:
i-lnch)X)t8. per 1000* 3.00 Wnch puts, per 1000 S.'2.00
3.25 7 " •• :i'i.00

Address HILFINGER BROS. POTTERY,

.... FORT EDWARD, N. Y.

Aui-'ust Kolker & Sons, 13B & l:i8 W. 24th St., New Vork

ORCHI DS, m

12 Best free growing and profuse flow-
ering Orcliids for amateurs, for $10.00.
Wn. MATHEWS, Utica, N. Y.

w

rite for a Copy of
the "Illustrator,"

A monthly journal issued by
i the largest engraving house
in the United States. . .

J. MANZ & CO.

183, 185, 187 Honroe Street,

. . CHICAGO.

Engraving by all Procesies..

64

GARDENING.

Nov. I.

Planting
Plans

should be made during the Fall and
Winter and the planting done the fol-
lowing Spring

J. Wilkinson Elliott,

Landscape Architect,
Horticultural Buyers' Agent,

Pittsburg, Pa.

Detailed Planting Plans with specitica-
tionsfurnished at moderate cost. Trees,
Shrubs and Plants supplied my cus-
tomers at a saving of 25 to 50 per cent.
from usual prices.

Pamphlet and Price List sent on

application

New, Rare and Beaulilul Plants

STROBILANTHES DYERIANUS. This is the
most valuable novelty that has been intro-
duced for years. For beridiug is superior to tile
finest coleus; withstands hot sun and dry
weather better.

A large coUectiou of rare hothouse and grreen-
house plants, carefully grown, at low rates.

ORCHIDS— A very extensive stock; East Indian,
Mexican, Central and South American, &c.

RARE AND BEAUTIFUL EVERGREENS,

ORNAMENTAL TREES, SHRUBS. &c.

P/EONIES— A large collection of the finest in cul-
tivation. Hardy Perennials, Phloxes, Japan-
ese Iris, Roses, Clematis, etc. New and Stand-
ard Fruits, etc.

4S*Catalogues on application.

JOHN SAUL, Washington, D. C.

FLOWER POTS.

. STANDARD •

You will make a mistake if you place your
orders for flower pots this Fall without
first receiving our estimates for same.
Our plant is now the Largest in the World.
Our stock unlimited. Our goods equaled
by none. . . .

A. H. HEWS & CO.,

North Cambridge, Mass.

JOHN G. MONINGER GO.

WRITE
FOR
CATLG.

Cypress
(jreen=House
297 Construction
307 Material.

Hawthorne Ave., ChlCagO, 111.

PITCHER «Sc MANDA.

Special inducements are being offered in
greenhouse and outdoor plants of everj- de-
scription and very- high quality, at the lowest
prices ever known. Such an opportunity to
secure bargains seldom occurs.

Write us your requirements and we will
furnish estimate of cost.

United States Nurseries,

SHORT HILLS. N. J.

Wlien wrItliiK mention GardenlnK.

CANNA5.

Mine. Croz.y, .1. I>. Calios, Alphune
Itouvier, P. Marquant, Captain P. d
SuzzonI, I'res. Carnot, tinstave Senne
holz, KxplorateurCrampbel.H. A.Dree
The <iarden, Couite II. de Cholseu
<ieoftVo.v St. Hilalre. One of each for $3.U

PROBST BROS. FLORAL CO.,

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LORD & BURNHAM CO.,

Horticultural Architects ^SP- Builders,

STEAM AND HOT WATER HEATING ENGINEERS.

Flang and estimateB furnished on application

4;

«« SLM) r OLR

Mention C,a

LORD & BURNHAM CO.,

NiNG Irvin^on=on=Hudson, N. Y.

Bulbs for Fall Planting

Kiir 25c. fOSTl'AIlJ, For r,0<-. I'( i.-iTI-AlI),
I Lll. Auratum, z Lil. Aurt. or Rubrm,

I Lil. Longiflorum, i Chinese Narcissus,
I Calla Ethiopica. 1 Calla Etiiiopica,

I Chinese Narcissus. 3 Freesias,

2 Paper White Narcis.
2 Lil. Longiflorums.
Send your name NOW for our NEW and Interestlnir
UataloKue which will appear .Inn. Ist. PartleB send-
ing orders for abuve will receive catalogue free.

ADDRESS H. H. BERGER & CO.,

Established 1878. SAN FRANCISCO, CAL.

(Hdesl

a uf Ja
Plant!

If you like

GARDENING

Please recommend

it to vour friends. — *^*

HORSFORD'S
Hardy Plants

ARE FROST PROOF

because they are grown in Vermont. They all
live, if given half a chance, because they have
plenty of roots, and much care is used in pack-
ing and shipping. If you need any hardy or-
namental? of any kind it will pay you to send
a stamp for his catalogue even if vou do not
buv of him. Address

F. H. HORSFORD, Charlotte, Vt.

BULBS

>"» k y~tr~r^m 12 Cacti, Si. SforSOcts.
i j\L .,11 >S0 Blooming Bulbs, $1.

RARE PLANTS bVoIT ""'"

A.BLANC&C0.316N11

Mention Gardening.

CHICAGO, NOVEMBER is. 1894.

No. 53.

A GLIMPSE OF THE OCEAN.

fl GLIMPSE OP TflE OCEAN.

Dosoris is an island close by the north
shore of Long Island and abont thirty
miles east of the city of New York. There
is no open sheet of fresh water on the
estate, but there are a good many charm-
ing views along and across Long Island
Sound. On a clear dav the mainland
shore— Westchester county, N. V., and to
Greenwich, Conn.,— can be seen very
plainly from Dosoris, and all the shipping
through the Sound must necessarily pass
by in front of this little i.sland.

Our illustration is engraved from a pho-
tograph taken here some weeks ago, and
shows a piece of tree planting above a
bluff. Through the notch in the middle
appears a fine broad stretch of water
about 8 or 9 miles wide. We are now

looking diagonally across the Sound
towards Greenwich. When this photo-
graph was taken the camera was 100
yards back from the nearest trees shown.
The rib across the lawn marks the last
swath of the mowing machine.

The large spreading tree to the right is
a honey locust. It thrives admirably
here and makes a beautiful and pleasing
tree, airy and graceful, but on account of
its terrible spines we can not recommend
it for planting close b3' our dwellings.
The thick tree to the right of it is a young
European beech, the tall dense growth
under its left branches is a triplet group
of fastigiate oaks.

The thick dense evergreen bushes at the
notch consist of Mugho or Alpine dw.nrf
pines, dense, pigmy forms of firs and

spruces, and junipers. Their form is natu-
ral, the3' are not clipped into shape, and
they vary from 12 to 20 years old. Those
on the brow of the bank only are seen in
the picture.

The two tall deciduous trees to the left
of the notch are common hickories. They
stand in an exceedingly exposed position,
and in the teeth of the fierce northwest
winds which are our prevailing ones in
winter. In front and to the left of them
is a group of goodly sized white spruce
with a few large white pines. This spruce
stands the winds better than the pine,
butwhere fullvexposed tothe fierce winds
of winter even the spruce gets bare on the
northwest side. Athick growth of yellow
locust on the face of the bluff (not seen in
the picture) breaks the winds from the

66

• • GARDENING.

Nov. is^

evergreens at the top of the bank. The
evergreens on the windward side are
Austrian and Scotch pines, but the Aus-
trian is much the better one for this pur-
pose, in fact it is the best of all evergreens
for such work. Scattered in front of the
white spruces and where they are well
sheltered are a few specimens of other
trees such as the European bird cherry,
the European drooping linden (Tilia
petiolaris), cockspur thorns, etc.

This question might suggest itself to
many: By clearing away that group of
hickories and spruces couldn't a broader
view of the Sound be had^ True, but the
peep through that notch is a beautiful
and distinct view; to the left of the group
and not shown in the picture is a broad
straight-across view of the water with
the country beyond for miles in sight, and"
there are other views in other directions.
The planting adds to the comfortable
appearance and hominess of the island,
for too bare a front has an impoverished,
naked efiect. Besides, at that corner,
which is the northeast, we need the pro-
tection afforded by these trees to save the
younger ones further back from the shove.
And a good feature of the planting of
that notch is that one can sit on the piazza
of the mansion house and look across the
water over the heads of the trees and
without the view being impeded in the
least. And as the dwarfness of the trees
is natural there is no perpetual care rc-
quirefl in trimming them down to the
proper height.

The Flower Garden.

THE FLOWER OflRDEN.

Get everything tidied up before the win-
ter sets in. Simply because the frost has
come and killed the tender plants, and the
hardy perennials to the ground is no rea-
son why we should leave our gardens
littered up with dead plants, and other
rubbish. A clean, trim, tidy garden
always looks well, besides it is a public
endorsement of the owner.

Borders of Hardy Pl.wts say filled
with pffionies, larkspur, phloxes, bell
flowers, sunflowers, German irises, bee
balm, coreopsis, meadow sweet, and the
like, should be put in order now for win-
ter. We cut over the dead tops of all the
plants and clear them away, securely
label everything that needs it, pull out
any bad weeds and give a general level off
to the surface of the bed with a hoe or
rake; then we spread a lot of well broken
up manure over it all for two purposes, to
fertilize the land, and to shade and pro-
tect the plants, and theircrowns in partic-
ular, from the winter's severity or change-
ableness.

An Excellent Protection.— The old
dead stems of pjeonias, phloxes, sunflow-
ers and other hardy plants if left uncut
and dishevelled in the borders collect and
hold the tree leaves that are drifting
about in fall, and the snow in winttr.and
undoubtedly form one of the best and
most natural winter protections the
plants in the ground can have, but they
are untidy, unsighth', uncalled for, and
quite unnecessary, the clearing away of
all surface stems and rubbish, and mulch-
ing with short manure answer every pur-
pose.

Clematis. — W here these are run up on
trellises or intertwined among other vines
it may be well to let them alone; but
where they are tied up to single stakes,
shorten in straggling antl dishevelled
shoots, then unfasten the i)Iant and let it

drop to the ground, now gather it
together around the base of the stake
and cover it over with a few shovelfuls of
loam. The vines winter wellin this way.
While this is good for the early blooming
varieties, saving the old wood isn't of
much avail in the case of the late sorts
that bloom on the current years wood.
And although Flammula and paniculata
may have a good deal of sound wood
w hen spring comes it is a question if it is
better to try to save the old shoots than
to cut them down to the ground in fall.
Strong plants grow rampantly and are
as sure to bloom from the young shoots
springing directly from the ground as
from those produced on the preserved old
wood. Pitcheri, crispa and coccinea should
be cut down in the fall as you would a
common herbaceous perennial, and an
armful of leaves or a forktul of litter
placed over the roots. Herbaceous non-
climbing species as Davidiana, tuhulosa,
and integrifolia, should be cut over, and
even C. stans, which is inclined to being
shrubby, we find does well when cut back
to the ground in winter and well mulched.

Clematis Paniculata from Seed.—
We had some young plants in a bed last
year; they were left fiat on the ground,
and bloomed and ripened seed there. Hav-
ing lifted and transplanted them last
spring, the bed was forked and planted
afresh with some small trees. We saw no
further traces of the clematis till after the
rains came in September when seedlings
of the clematis began coming up thick all
over the bed. If you have saved any
clematis seed sow it now and it niaj'
come up next spring or not till the fall.
Don't sowitinth greenhouseor window,
but out of doors, spread a few evergreen
branches over it to keep the sun and wind
away from it, but don't save it from the
frost.

Hollyhocks, Sweet Williams, Can-
terbury Bells and Foxgloves cannot
be depended upon as unprotected hardy
plants in open places, but in the shelterof
ranker plants and bushes they seem to
winter well enough. Our main crop of
Canterburj' bells are wintered in a cold
frame whence they are planted out into
the garden in early spring, but all the
others named above are grouped together
in beds out of doors and mulched with
dry oak leaves, and a few branches, some
sedge, or a little dirt is thrown over them
to keep them from blowing about. The
hollyhocks that have lived over well in
the borders should have a small armful of
dry leaves placed around each and a little
litter over them to hold them in place.

Barely Hardy Plants.— There are a
good many of these, for instance acan-
thus, miit flower, and Larpent's plum-
bago, that die down to the ground, they
should get an extra forkful or two of rank
litter mulching laid over them, not only
immediately over their crowns but around
them.

MoNTBKETL^s live Out of doors here in
favorable spots, but as there is risk
attending them, we lift some of each
variety and set them in unbroken clunqjs
into a cold frame over winter where tlicy
survive nicely.

Summer Hyacinths (//. candicans) in
some spots in the garden winters as well
as if it were a poet's narcissus, in others
it dies out in winter. A good mulching
ov r them is a safeguard, and wherethere
is the least doubt rbout them, lift the
bulbs and keep them dry and cool— but
never so cool as to let frost reach them —
till spring when they should be planted
out again.

St^uces — We use stakes for dahlias,
hollyhocks, tall larkspur, and many other

even smaller plants during the summer.
Get all such stakes gathered together and
assorted according to their length, cut off
the old tie-strings that may be still fas-
tened to them, and tie them securely into
bundles which should be stored in some
shed to keep them dry and preserve their
lasting qualities.

Plant Some Bulbs.— If you have any
bulbs not yet set out get them planted at
once. Those planted so late as this don't
start to grow so early in spring as do
those set out a month ago. hence you can
mulch them well with safetj-. Although
many of our common bulbs are perfectly
hardy freezing does them no good. In
planting early we like to plant a 'ittle
deeper than is usual and not mrlch at all
or at least only lightly in winter; but in
planting late because of the more eiur-
va ed condition of the bulbs we v\ouldn't
plant quite so deep, but protect the bulbs
with a good thick mulching of li ter or
short manure, removing the same before
the plants come through the ground in
spring. In mixed borders lots of bulbs
can be planted now and without interfer-
ing with the summer plants. Observe
that bulbs, such as narcissi, irises, fritil-
larias, and the like make their growth
and bloom while the ground is moi-t with
the winter and spring rains and before the
summer's drouth occurs, therefore they
can be set out among small shrubs and
near other permanent plants where late
growers would starve.

Empty Flower Beds —All beds from
which geraniums, coleus. heliotrojK- and
other tendt-r summer plants have been
removed should be cleaned up, manured
and forked if to be left cmptj' over win-
ter. If the ground is r ch already don't give
it much manure, for overfatted soil causes
plants to run more to foliage than to
blossoms, and a very rank growth isn't
desirable even in colt uses. For cannas,
castor beans, banana, and other rank
growing ornamental foliage plants
though give lots of manure.

Labels and Labelling PLANTs.-Much
of the pleasure in gardening is in know-
ing the plants we have in the garden, so
far as genera and species are concerned
we might trust to memory and our note
book to keep us right, for instance we
know the genera. Delphinium. Pyrethrum,
and Coreopsis at sight without the aid
of a label, and in the way of species we
might remember Salvia Pitcberi, Tricyr-
tis hirta, and Heliantbus orgyalis: but
when it comes to varieties as in the case
of pyrethrums, phloxes, and pjeonies, we
must have labels to keep us right. For
hardy perennials, bulbs, and the like the
proper labels to use are such as we stick
into the ground, and are generally made
of wood. The labels should be neat but
strong, sound and long enough to allow
of them being pushed into the ground so
deep that frost cannot heave them out of
it in winter; the name should be written
neativ, legibly and firmly, beginning at the
top and writing down rather than at the
at the bottom and writing down rather
than at the bottom and writing up.
Don't make the labels as conspicuous in
your garden as are the tombstones in a
graveyard; big labels and big lettering are
useless. We take a clear, straight grained
pine board %-inch thick, and saw it off
into 14- or 15-inch lengths; then with a
small hatchet split these up into thin
pieces which with a knife and plane we
readily convert into nice labels. Any
pieces o( waste pine boards will answer
as well. It isn't a ease of durability so
much as of retaining the lettering that we
look to. Cypress, red cedar or resinous
woods as yellow pine may last longer

iSg4-

GARDENING.

67

THE JAPANESE VARIEGATED CORNUS

I might say here that many reputably
hardy plants like Japan anemone, trito-
maSj'and erianthus grass, diein thecenter
more from wet than cold in winter, and
we can save them to a large extent 1)y
covering the mulching over their crowns
with a piece of tarred paper to throw off
I lie rain and melting snow.

T. McCarthy,

Supt. Swan Point Cemetery, Provi-
dence, R. I.

than white pine but they ar. hard to
write on clearly. Every year these labels
should be gone over and fixed up a little
as regards the writing on them; in fact
thev should be examined in spring and
fall" Now is the time to do it. And see
to it that every plant that needs one gets
one, and set 'it deep and firm in the
ground. To gvpsophila, fraxinella, ascle-
pias, platvcodon, lilies and other plants
that die down under the surface leaving
no trace above as do larkspur or phloxts
stouter and deeper labels should be set, to
guard against interfering with the roots
at forking or planting time in spring.

LILIUM flURflTUM.

Last vear you were kind enough to pub-
lish a note of mine, with illustration, on
growing L. auratum in a pit. The two
bulbs which were planted four years ago
this fall had this season sixteen flower
stalks, giving one hundred and sixty per-
fect flowers. Perhaps pit culture is the
successful way to grow the L. auratum.

Amherst, Mass. H. Hi;.\Tc).\.

CRINUM KIRKII.

M. N., Chipi^ewa Falls, Wis., has been
on the wrong track. We grow C. Kirkii
as well as other crinums and amaryllis
(except aulica platypetala^ in the open
ground in summer in the same way as we
grow gladioli. After the first light frost
weliftthem,cut ofl"thc tops and a por-
tion (three-tourths of the length) of the
roots, and then store the bulbs in a warm
cellar. Thev all flower well cverv vear.

Floral Park, X. Y. E. S. M'ii.i.er.

Tin-; Wild livKNi.Nc Puimrose {OCno-
Ihera biennis).— H. K. V., Philadelphia,
wries: "I enclose a flower and leaf of a
plant 1 have watched with a great deal
of interest and curiosity for sometime.
There is a group of it growing on the
sheltered side of a bank by the road side.
The stalk is about the size of the golden
rod, and is as firm a- d woody. The plants
began blooming in September, perhaps
earlier, and have continued freely ever
since not appearing to be at all affected
by the coolness oi the weather. Will you
kindly give me the name and state what
you think it capable of under cultiva-
tion?"

It is the common evening primrose and
occurs quite plentitully by the waysides
and elsewhere in a wild state. A species
known as CE. grandifforaor Lamackiapa
is a vigorous growing plant not unlike
biennis in habit but with much largerand
finer blossoms; grow it instead of the
wild one. It is easily raised from seed,
and although a biennial, if sown early it
blooms the first year. It is perfectly
hardv and after it gets to seeding in the
garden it selfsows itself with the lavish-
ness of a weed. But it isn't a troublesome
plant at all.

Trees and Shrubs.

EVERGREEN HARDY PLANTS FOR COVERING
GRAVES.

To cover gr;nes permanently peri-
winkle, or "myrtle" as we call it ( V'/hct
minor) and European ivy [Ilerlera) are
used here. Ivy is more difiicult to retain
and reciuircs more protection and care in
winter. We cover it with tree leaves, then
a few bare branches and tarred paper
over all. This works well when we can
keep out moles and field mice. Myrtle is
often discolored in early spring, so we
sickle it all ofi' close to the ground, and
leaves and flowers follow immediately.
.\ slight covering in winter of coarse sta-
ble manure is beneficial to the myrtle.

TAB JAPANESE VARIEGATED CORNUS.

(Cornus macrophylla variegata.)

THE BEST OF ALL VARIEGATED TREES.

Under the name of "Cornus bracbypoda
variegata" this plant was sent here some
years ago by H. H. Berger & Co., impor-
ters of Japanese plants, San Francisco. It
has grown beautifully, and we have no
hesitation whatever in saying that it is
by far the whitest, healthiest, and most
striking and beautiful variegated tree or
shrub at Dosoris. It is one of the trees
that everyone who visits thisplace makes
a note of. And it seems not only hardy,
but perfect!}' happy here.

Let us ciuote from H. H. Berger & Co.'s
catalogue, "a deciduous most ornamental
tree, with silvery foliage, variegated with
light green, the variegation of which has
become fixed and and will always come
true. Very rare, (juite hardy in cold
climate. Most beautiful and striking ap-
pearance." Considering its behavior here,
the catalogue description is not over-
drawn.

The species is a native of Japan, Corea,
China, and to the Himalayas, and forms
an upright, horizontally' branched tree
thirty to fifty feet high, and looks exceed-
ingly like our native C. alternilolia. In
Japan it is abundant in the forests of
Yezo and the mountains of Honda.

The leaves are ovate-lanceolate, acumi-
nate at both ends, four to seven inches
long, by two to four inches wide, pale
green on the underside, and deep green
partly clouded with white and with large
uneven patches or marginal variegation
of clear creamy white. There is nothing
washy or indistinct about the variega-
tion. And in October a warm crimson

68

• GARDENING.

Nov. 75,

hue suffuses the foliage, firiving it a tricolor
appearance.

The positive superiority of this tree's
variegation over that of all others in
cultivation consists in its pronounced
whiteness, and the fact that neither the
leaves nor variegation gets scorched by
the summer's warm sunshine.

Common in gardens are three or four
variegatedjleaved cornuses, notably the
variegated Cornelian cherrj- (C Mas)
whose leaves burn badly in summer;
elegantissima, of broad bushy form and
free white variegation, but it too bums;
and Spastbii, of the same style, and hav-
ing yellow variegated leaves, which too
though less susceptible than the others
are apt to get burned in late summer.
This new Japanese beauty surj^asses them
a'l in boldness andvigor,and intheshow-
iness, health and persistence of its varie-
gation. But to have it in perfection plant
it in rich moist ground, and in a place
sheltered from cold winds. Our illustra-
tion is engraved from a photograph of a
leafy twig taken at Dosoris the middle of
October.

PLflMINO fl BARE HILL TOP.

A subscriber in Central Massachusetts
asks: What and how to plant to quickly
provide shade and shelter about buildings
on the top of a bare, dry, clay hill of
thirteen hundred f.ct elevation, with an
exposure to all the winds that blow?

The-usual method of planting trees and
shrubs singly in small holes in the grass
will not suffice. If such a field was kept
free of the plow, scythe and grazing ani-
mals it would probably be covered with
trees in time. Nature would bring this
about in the following manner:

In the grass clumps of St. John's wort,
asters, golden rods, thistles and others
that are possessed of winged seeds or
other means of read}' distribution, would
spring up in clumps and thickets. In or
on the edge of these thickets would appear
cornels, viburnums, bay berries, huckle-
berries and other plants, the seeds of
which are usually distributed by birds.
With these shrubs and after they are
established would appear young birches,
oaks, chestnuts, hickories, pines, cedars,
spruces, or other forest trees, the parents
of which were near at hand to furnish
seed for the squirrels to plant or the
winds to sow. These trees would event-
ually make a forest. Each series of plants
is protected by those preceding it, and
without this protection but a small pro-
portion would becomeestabhshed. Nature
does not hurry, her processes are slow
but sure; too slow, however, to serve this
enquirer's purpose, but by taking the cue
she gives we may accomplish the desired
result in a shorter time. We must secure
a shelter, a wind break to curb the furj'
of the wind, for it is this wind ratherthan
the elevation that does the damage. For
this a continuous strip of planting, or
series of overlapping groups, having a
width of from thirty to one hundred feet
should be provided. The surface of these
areas should be prepared in such a thor-
ough manner that the average fanner
would think your money was being
wasted or the ground worn out. The
"stiff clay' soil should be heavily man-
ured, then plowed, sub-soiled, cross-
plowed and harrowed until it is thor-
oughly pulverized as far below the surface
as it well can be by these processes. Now
plant on the windward side a strip about
six feet wide of such plants as the wild
Manetti or dog roses, Spirxa salicifolia,
bayberry, one and one-half feet apart,
then a strip ten feet wide to be planted
three feet apart with such shrubs as

Spirssa opulifolia, California privet, com-
mon elder, staghorn sumach, tamarix,
panicled and silkj' dogwood and Vibur-
num dcntatuw. The remainder of the
space to be planted with young and vig-
orous rapid growing trees like the canoe
and white birch, cottouwood, European
sycamore, basswood, white ash, ailan-
thus' and black cherry. Inside of this
may be a strip of more garden-like plants
if such are desired.

Small plants suitable for such planta-
tions can be secured in quantity at a low
rate so that the cost of such plantations
will not be excessive. They will attain a
height of ten feet or more in three years
after planting and will then sei-ve as an
effective shelter, back of which may be
grown a large varietv of plants success-
fully.

The selection of plants most likely to
succeed (that are obtainable at a low
price ) will depend upon the character of
the ground. Very likely special require-
ments as to cultivation, "location of plan-
tations with reference to the arrangement
of the grounds, access to buildings, direc-
tion of views, etc., would also determine
the selection and arrangement of plants.
However this may be, the result desired
is more likely to be secured by the method
of planting and kinds of plants indicated
than by any other.

W.\RREX H. M.\NN1NG
Brookline, Mass.

TREES AND SflRUBS.

Go around among your trees and
shrubs and mark all that you wish to cut
downorrootout. You candothis rooting
out better now than later on becau-e so
far there is very little frost in the ground,
hence you can do the work more expedi-
tiously than you can in midwinter, don't
leave anything of this sort till spring for
then between planting, grading, and fix-
ing up things generally we are apt to be
very busj'. Use a little discretion in thin-
ning however. In the case of evergreen
trees that you wish to get rid oi but
which serve a good purpose as a shelter
for other plants in winter, if practicable
leave them standing till the winter is
over and get the good of their shelter. At
Dosoris, as we use a good man^' evergieen
branches for covering somewhat tender
or little plants in winter, and also for
temporary windbreaks, we strain a point
in thinning the belts of pines, spruces and
firs. Instead of clearing away every un-
necessary tree in one season, we keep
thinning out these supernumeraries, a few
every fall, to use them for protecting pur-
poses. In this way those that are left
are alwa3's pretty specimens. If we did
not have this evergreen brush at home we
would have to buy it; some years ago we
could go out into the waste fields here-
about and cut all we wanted, but now all
that idle property is bought up and we
can get nothing without going some
miles away for it.

In removing dtjplicate, overcrowding
and unnecessary trees don't cut them
down; but root them out. While it is a
difficult matter to dig out large tree
stumps it isn't at all difficult to dig out
big trees by the root for in addition to
the shovel and the axe we have the great
aid of the tree itself to pry the root out
of the hole.

Staking Young Trees.— To all newly
planted deciduous trees give a stout, neat
stake, and drive it deep and firm into the
ground, and fasten the trees securely but
not very tightly to the stakes with soft,
stout cord, sa3' marlin or lath cord; and
where needed use a pad of burlap or bit

of old rubber hose between the tier and
the tree orhetween the tree and stake to
keep the tree from chafing.

TopHEAVY TREES such as ground cherry,
wistaria, Japanese sophora, rosmary-
leaved and Kilmarnock willows. Teas'
mulberry, and others that are worked
standard high and which are unable to
support their own heads in case of a
storm should be very securely staked, the
stakes being stout, very strong and dura-
ble, and deepin the groundtostiffen them.
We use locust for this work.

Tiers.— Both in the case of stakes and
labels the strings or wires used in fasten-
ing them to the trees or shrubs should be
examined for two reasons, first to renew
them if necessary, secondly, to see that
the tiers are not cutting into the bark or
wood. If they are cutting into the bark
remove them at once, and replace them
with new and more roomy ones.

Magnolias, Yellow wood, Kcelreu-
TERiA.— V. G., Belleville. III., writes:
"Kindly tell me which of the following
magnolias are hardiest: Waisoni, hypo-
leuca, parviffora, and conspicua, also if
koelreuteria and j-ellow wood trees are
hardy in Belleville, III., which is as far
north as St. Louis, Mo."

The three first named magnolias have
not been tested sufficiently to enable usto
say how hard}' they realh' are, but we
have every reason to believe that the four
you name are hard}' at Belleville. Hypo-
leuca we believe may prove to be the
hardiest, conspicua next; the other tv»o
should have protection from cold winds.
The yellow wood (Cladrastis lutea or as
it is often called Virgilia lutea) is perfectly
hardy with you, so too we believe, is the
koelreuteria.

Shrubs for Name.— M. L. G., New
York, sends two "specimens for identifi-
cation and name," but they are not num-
bered and there is no letter accompanying
them. One is the Indian currant or coral
berry (Symphoricarpus ru/^ar/s), a native
bushy, spreading shrub, three to five feet
high, and much cultivated in gardens.
Its branches are now loaded and arched
with bunches of small dark red berries
stuck close at the axils of the leaves The
other is the spindle tree (Euonymus
Europseus). It is a common and very
beautiful small tree in gardens and wild
where it has escaped from gardens; its
red and orange fruit is very c^nspicuotis
now.

Chrysanthemums.

SOME OF THE NEWER CHRYSflNTflEMUMS.

We who grow flowers for market are
very particular about the varieties that
we cultivate; we must have the most
faultless sorts in strength, cleanness and
leafiness of stem, and size, fullness, beauty
and finish of flower, and purity and at-
tractiveness of color. With this aim con-
stantly in view, for our bread and butter
depend upon it, we are always striving
after something that is better than we
already have, and we have got to dis-
criminate severely. We can not afford to
cultivate fancies nor risk any varieties
that are capricious, weak, subject to dis-
ease or difficult to grow. And just as
surely as these varieties are the best for
us to grow so too as certainly are they
the best for amateurs to have.

The following are among the best new
kinds that I have now (October 31) in
bloom and every one of them is a fine

i8q4.

GARDENING.

69

1: Enfant drs De

4. H. Fewkes.

SOME OP THE NEWER CHRYSANTHEMUMS,

chrysanthemum as vou can see by the
two photographs (showing ten vatneties)
your artist took here to-day.

L'E.NFAKT DES Deux Mokdes.— White,
hairy petalled, with very delicate traces
of pink. "Mrs. A. Hard\-" type. Good
for pot or bench growing.

AIiNERYA.— Clear, soft, but brilliant
j'ellow; dwarf (three feet), w^th hand-
some foliage; it is close jointed and one ot
the finest varieties ever introduced. It is
extra good for growing on benches for
specimen blooms, or for pot culture, as it
makes a compact bushy plant, and is best
on crown buds.

Mrs. Geo. M. Pillmax.— A deep,
clear yellow flower. The plant has fine,
handsome foliage, but is rathertall grow-
ing and is only fit forgrowingon benches,
where there is at least fne feet of head
room for it.

I^ADY Pi.AVFAiR.— .\ clear soft pink
flower, whose only trouble is is very
heavy massive head of bloom which is a
little too heavj' for its stem without sup-
port; otherwise it is a grand varietj' for
bench growing. About four feet high.

Mrs. Geo. .\. Magee.— .\ grand pink
flower, and when grown in benches
it makes fine specimen blooms. The plant
averages four ieet high.

Mayflower.— An immense flower
of the most graceful form, its general
build is massive but not formal, and all
things considered it is one of the best
novelties of the season. It is good for
either bench growing or for pots. Its
average height is two and one-half to
three feet and it has fine handsome foliage
close up to the flower. The crown buds
make the best flowers.

Marie Louise.— .\ fine, bold, white
flower, but the stem is a little too weak
to carry the heavy bloom. Does best on
benches.

IoR.\. — .\ handsome and graceful flower,

but it is not a good traveler. The
variety is good lor either pot or bench
culture and averages three and one-halt
feet in height. The color and the blos-
som is very distinct, being a delicate
shade of rose pink.

Yellow Queen. — This probably is the
best early yellow yet introduced. Fine
specimen flowers ofthis were sent to New-
York market on the 7th of October. The
average height of the plants is three feit
and they have handsome foliage and good
stems. It is best on crown buds. The
variety is good for either pot or bench
culture. The best flowers of this variety
were past their best when this photo-
graph was taken.

A. H. Fewkes.— This is a flower of
a pleasing shade of clear yellow. The
plant is dwarf and sturdy with handsome
foliage, good for either bench or pot grow-
ing, and is a very desirable mid-season
variety.

Other good varieties of this year's in-
troduction are as follows:

Bonnie Marjorie.— An earlv an! desir-
able incurved Japanese variety with clear
soft yellow flowers.

M issGeorgienne Br AMHALL.—.^n extra
fine lemon yellow, bold, massive flower.

Mrs. H. Mck. Twombly.— A very fine
incurved Japanese varietj', with large,
massive, but not formal, white flowers.
Being a tall grower it is best for bench
culture.

Mrs. E. G. Hill.— A very early, large,
fine flower, of a beautifully shaded i)ink
color. Its greatest defect is its rather too
weak a stem to carry the flower erect. It
grows four and one-half to five feet in
height on the bench.

Mrs. John H. Starin.— A very fine,
bold, massive incurved white flower. The
plant grows four feet high and does best
on benches.

Mrs E. O. Wolcott. — A verv large, in-
curved, striking flower of a soft but clear

satin-like oink color. The plant has
handsome foliage and a good stout stem
four feet high. It does best on benches
and restricted to crown buds.

Maud Pierson.— .\^ high built, incurved,
compact flower, of a gloss3' pink color
with an apricot tinge on the tips of the
petals. It grows four and one-half feet
in height and does best on benches and
confined to crown buds.

Wm. Seward is a deep crimson, fine ex-
hibition flower, and like all other dark
colored varieties it must be kept very
cool after it begins to show color or it
will bum.

Eugene Dailledouze is among the
most promising yellow-flowered late va-
rieties. John N. May.

Summit, N.J.

WINTERING CHRySflNTHEMUMS.

.A. chrvsanthemum is a herbaceous pe-
rennial, the whole plant dies down to the
ground every year and takes a season of
rest, just as' a phlox or sunflower does;
and it matters not whether our plants
are grown in the greenhouse, window or
open garden we should observe this law
of Nature.

Another point: Just as a plant is going
into its period of rest is when, of all times
in the year, it should be let alone, and
excitement into renewed growth discour-
aged.

Hardy Varieties.— Most of the pom-
pones and a good many of the Chinese
sorts are perfectly hardy out of doors
providing they are left undisturbed where
they grew and flowered till spnng, and a
forkful of rank litter or an armful of leaves
is laid over each of them. If the stems
are left uncut they add to the beneficial
effect of the mulching in two ways, first,
by keeping the crown somewhat open
and lessening the tendency to rot under
the close mulch, secondly, by helping to

70

GARDENING.

Nov. 75,

keep the mulch in place. But for tidiness
sake we would cut the tops back to afoot
long anj'way.

The Japanese varieties grown and
flowered out of doors can hardly be
trusted in the open garden over winter
even under a mulching; some live all right,
others don't. It is therefore safer to lift
them and winter them in a cold frame,
pit, cellar or shed, than totrustthemout-
side. Select one or two of the best clumps
of ea:h kind and lift these without shak-
ing away much dirt from them and pack
them one deep and close up against each
other in a cold frame or pit or on the floor
in a cold cellar Several degrees of frost
won't hurt them. In severe weather
cover the frames with sashes or shutters
and some sedge or straw, and il sharp
frost gets into the cellar throw a piece of
matting or old carpet over the roots.
Try to keep the plants from starting to
grow before the winter is over, especiallj^
those in the cellar or shed, and this means
that they must be kept cool.

Plants in pots are easy to manage.
When theirflowers are past "cut the plants
down to the root, then store them in a
shed, cellar or cold frame as referred to
above, first turning the plants out of
their pots but otherwise not disturbing
them, so as to be able to pack them closer
together and with earth between them,
for not even when they are at rest in win-
ter should the roots be allowed to become
dry. If j'ou have not many plants to
store away you may turn them out of
their pots and pack them in shallow
boxes, such as empties you may obtain
at the grocer's, heads up, one deep, and
with moist earth between them. Then
keep them cool. Before storing your
plants away for the winter in this way
be sure that each one is securely and
properly labeled; we prefer wiring the
label to the old stump rather than stick-
ing it into the ball of roots pot-fashion.
To prevent the sprouts of the plants in-
terlacing when they begin to grow in the
frame or cellar we pack the plants in rows
with a lath or board between them.
Many who grow chrysanthemums in
pots keep over one or two pots of each
sort in a cold greenhouse or grapery or
the bottom of a pit without turning them
out of the pots at all. and keep them
slightly moist all the time.

Verifying the Names.— Before the
flowers are all past go over the plants,
making sure of their proper names and
label them correctly. Wherever a large
variety is grown and the plants receive
much handling some of the names are
most sure to get lost or mixed.

Seedlings.— What a polyglot assort-
ment they are, some are single, others
double or half double; and thev are of all
sizes and shades of color. Seed

the house or greenhouse in early

spring

germmates readily, and if the seedlings
receive encouraging treatment they will
bloom the same _vear. drown in pots
and indoors they take up a lot of room,
but planted out in a warm sheltered part
of the garden they grow rnnklv, and if
very severely disbudded give us an ex-
travagant display of blossoms. After
they are killed back by frost we lift and
save the pleasant appearing, desirable
ones for another year and root out and
discard the others. In mild localities bv
all means raise seedlings and grow and
bloom them out of doors, there is great
enjoyment in it.

Chrvsanthemi'ms out of doors.— We
grow a large variety out of doors and
succeed in blooming most of them as.
being on the sea coast, we seldom get
killing frosts before the middle of Novem-

ber. The plants that have been thor-
oughh' disbudded give nice full blossoms,
but tliese flowers are not to be compared
with the monstrous beauties grown in
greenhouses. Among those that have
done best with us thi.- season arc Ivory,
Jessica and Domination, all white; Red
Dragon, yellow and crimson, early, old,
but one of the best for outdoor work;
Gloriosum, if severely disbudded and
staked it always does well; Yellow
Dragon, although a little late makes fine
heads; Mrs. J. G. Whilldin,can;(ry yellow,
tall, and needs staking, early; George S.
Conover, deep yellow, large, stout
stemmed flowers, and although new
health}' and promising; Gold, deep yel-
low, medium size, and opens well; Source
d'Or and Brazen Shield, both golden
bronze varieties, and old, open fine out-
side; Julie Lagravere, dark crimson, small
flowered, dwarf habit, not early, but
good, and a fine color, and Gloire Ray-
onante, silvery purple, porcupine quilled,
opens well and early everj- year, but no-
body wants its flowers. " All Chinese va-
rieties of white and yellow colors have
mildewed badly; Baron Beust, however,
tawn}' ch stnut, is as usual perfectly clean
and full of flowers, but hereagain nobody
wants it; the same with the pv.rples
among Chinese sorts.

FINE FLOWERS AT CHlCflCO.

Among the most attractive chrysanthe-
mums at the Chicago show were a good
manv old favori cs, but the prize-winning
collections, in most cases embraced the
newer sorts. The class for seedlings not
yet disseminated ca led out some notable
blooms, among them "Philadelphia," the
new^eedling originating with Mr. Gra-
ham of that city. By general consent this
flower was the most remarkable on ex-
hibition. It is very lar^e, perfectly globu-
lar, with pointed incurving petals, creamy
\yhite stained with lemon towards the
tip. The peculiarity of the coloi-ing gives
the flow r a peculiar translucent effect, in
spite of its massive build. Another beau-
tiful seedling, which practical growers
think most promising, is Mrs. S. T Mur-
dock, originating in Indiana. This is a
soft yet bright rose pink, flower of
medium size but graceful shape, with a
very robust habit. This flower seems
free from the livid bluish tinge seen in so
many pink chrysanthemums, it received
award for best pink seedling. Crysta-
lina, which received award for the best
white seedling, was a perfect ball, the ends
of the petals being notched. Mrs. W. H.
Rand was perhaps the oddest and most
striking of the seedlings; it was a large,
rather flat recurving flower of a deep
golden yellow. The petals were tubular
at the base, but about half wa}- up they
split into several forked ends, and these
were twisted about in iiiovt irregular
fashion. This will Ik- n sIkiwv variety
for exhibition. Mrs.Mnvcs J. Win t worth,
another seedling, secnud likc.-i dceii yellow
Ivory, having both form and habit of
that excellent variety. The award for
best yellow seedling, however, went to
Mrs. H W. Emerson, a high built, deep
yellow, recurving flower, with every sign
of a vigorous growth and habit. ' Gold
Dust, a light yellow incurved hairy
flower, was an improvement in that type.
Among the flowers not of the seedling
class, it was noticeable that The Queen
was certainly the most popular white. In
pots or fill ...iiniu irial u-,; Ivory still out-
sells iv.i\ ..I Ik I \\ lull, lull lor exhibition
The ijn.in <riiaiiil\ Ka.N. It was the
winninu w liiu 111 nio-.| ml llower classes,
and also in decorative b.-isket. Mutual
Friend appeared vcrv little amone cut

flowers; it is really a more delicately
finished bloom than The Queen, and of
ecjual puritj', but it was fine among
plants grown to single stem and bloom.
Marie Louise, which seemed likely to be
the coming white last year, has fallen
back to an inferior place. A new English
white. Rose Wynne, was much liked; it is
a very large incurving flower, with broad
solid petals, but is not vet thoroughlv
tested

Viviand-Morel unquestionably leads
among pinks; it is ver_v large, yet never
coarse, and the color is attractive in spite
of a tinge of magenta. It appeared in
almost every exhibit. Richard Dean, a
n.'w French pink, was favorably noticed:
it is a clear delicate color and globular
shape, the petals being dented near the
end by a little spoon-like depression, the
tip forked into a swallow-tail. Constella-
tion was another good pink; so was Mrs.
Potter Palmer, a ,arge incurving flower
tinged with magenta, a trifle coarse. Mer-
maid, which has been a favorite among
exhibition pinks, looked coarse and a
trifle washy. Mrs. F. Thompson, which
was an exhibition favorite four or five
years ago, looked very coarse and
dingy by its younger rivals, it is now en-
tireh' superseded.

Among } ellows Major Bonnaffon was
certainly at the top. It is perfection in
shape, color and habit, and received more
awards than any other yellow, though
Eugene Dailledouze was also excellent.
Challenge, the prize yellow of last .vear,
seems to be a disappoinment, and' was
not nearly so good as last year. Thecen-
ter does not open or color well.

In crimson, John Shrimpton, v^fhic'i
looks like a larger and fine CuUingfordii,
was excellent; so was Fisher's Torch.
Seguisiana, a round reflexed old gold
bloom, shading to russet at the tips of
the petals, received praise from the prac-
tical men, although the peculiar coloring
suggested fading. Amoor was one of the
finest bronzes, a large whorled flower,
that made a fine pot plant In the
anemone class Rider Haggard was the
finest; it is magenta, the disk high and
rounding, the florets tubular and shaped
like individual horse-mint flowers; the ray
florets broad and flat. The hairy flowers
were but Httle represented, and it looks
as if interest in them had greatly dimin-
ished among growers. E. T. R.

flMflTEURS AND THEIR CflRYSflNTflEMUMS.

By amateurs I mean those who have
small gardens, do their own work and
have little time to do it in, who grow a
few of many plants and take pleasure in
their development from crocus to chrys-
anthemum. It is to them I send what I
have noted this year. There are many
more chrysanthemums grown now thaii
there were five years ago. They are to
be seen under the lean-to of south and
siuthwest shelters, by the sides of houses
and other buildings, and numerous plants
are in boxes, small tubs and large pots,
placed on piazzas and under porches and
in canvas frames, and in cool rooms, they
are mostly bonny looking plants with
three to six stems in a clump and carry-
ing from ten to thirty or more flowers
each. A great many of the buds were
taken off" when they were small, away
back in the beginning of September.
When 1 first (now eight years past) ad-
vocated severe thinning of the flower
buds manv amateurs were afraid to even
take off a single one, but all this is
changed now.

My advice is this: Select all the early
flowering kinds for the treatment above
mentioned so as to have them in bloom

i894-

GARDENING.

SOME OP THE NEWER CHRYSANTHEMUMS

from say October 15 to November ">.
Here at Oconomowoc, Wiscorsin, wberc
I am staying jusi now, the first frost
sufficiently severe to chill gerar^iums
occurred to-day (November 5). There
are in many gardens clumps of the old
Annit Salter, Chevalier Domage and Reg-
ulus chrysanthemums that have stood
unscathed for j-tars. The following is a
capital list of early flowering ones:

Yellow — Firenzi, Gloriosum, Eurus,
Marian Henderson and Rohallion.

White.— Elaine, Harvest Queen, Soeur
Melanie, His Highness, Jessica, Mme.

Hlvsh.— Lord Mavor, Jean Nicolas.

Rose.— Viviand-M'orel. Sallie McClel-
land, Dawn.

Red.— Salvator, Sec'y Barotte.

Yellow and IJronze.- Vice-President
Hardy. M. Fred L'Usmayer, M. Francois
Katner, M. B. Jung.

PcRPLE.— Amaranth, John Thorpe, Bo-
hemia. Jonx Thorpe.

Chicago.

CHRySflNTHEMUMSlNTflBBROOiayNFflRKS.

In the greenhouses here there is now a
fine display of chrysanthemums. The ex-
hibition is for the benefit of the public at
l;irge, and the people are showing their
appreciation of the floral display by
crowding the gre nhouscs daily, as many
as 2,000 persons have passed through
them in a day.

We have ninety-five varieties of chrys-
anthemum, and all of them are pretty
good kinds; about twenty of them are
])rime, and some twenty-five we will dis-
card for reasons such as bearing small
flowers, having large yellow eyes, being
too loose and weak in habit, or weak in
the neck, or too long in the joints, for not
forming compact plants for growing in

limited space, etc. We don't grow the
plants for cut flowers, but as pot plants
for conservatory decoration only; this
being a public garden we wish to get up
as good a show of flowers on growing
plants as we can, and keep it up as long
as we can.

The plants were grown in pots all sum-
mer, the pots were plunged in frames out
of doors, and the plants repotted from
time to time as they required it. They
were removed to the greenhouse early and
some extra care given to them.

Extra good varieties.— The following
list contains the names of the extra good
varieties— both new and old— that I have
found to be most worthy of growing for
the purpose of making a good, bright
and pretty shovi- in a public conservatory:

Bride of Roses, CuUingfordii, Edward
Hatch, Eda Prass, Etoile de Lyon. F.
Thorlcy, F. Thomson, Golden Wedding,
Good Gracious, Harrv VTav, Ivory, Jes-
sica. Lilian Bird. Lilly M. thomas, Miss
K. R. Gordon, Miss M. Wanamaker.Mrs.
A |. Drexel, Mrs. C. Lanier, Mrs L. C.
Madeira, Pitcher & Manda, Pres. W. R.
Smith, Waban, W. H. Lincoln. Wm.
Brown, Vesuvius, Viviand-Morel.

Varieties I shall discard lor reasons
given above are:

Ada H. LeRoy, .\ugust Rose, Ben Har-
rison, Catherine Shaw, Edna Craig,
Elaine, Frank Wilcox, Grace Hill, Jeanne
d'Arc, Joseph Bamard, J. T Duryea, Joey
Hill, Louis Bochmer, Mmc. R.Owen, Mrs.
I. C. Price, Mrs. Langtry, Mrs. W. Baker,
Red Robin, Titmouse, Yellow Hammer,
Vieil d'Or, Westwood, White Cap, Wm.
Reid and W. W. Coles

David C. Thomson (Head gardener).

Prospect Park, Brooklvn, N. Y., No-
vember S, 'O-t.

fl DOZEN FlNECHRySftNTflEMUMS.

I look upon the following varieties as
the best twelve chrysanthemums to grow
in a greenhouse:

IT'Aite— Ivory, Queen, Niveus.

\eUo\v — Yellow Queen, W. H. Lincoln,
Eugene Dailledouze.

Pink — Viviand-Morel, Maud Dean,
Pres W. R. Smith.

Crimson or dark— G. W. Childs, R. Mc-
Innes, Wm. Seward. E. AsMUS.

West Hoboken, N. J., Oct. 31, 1894.

Early-blooming Chrysanthemums
for outdoor cultivation.— dr. h. p.
Walcott, of Cambridge, Mass., and one
of the pioneers of chrysanthemum grow-
ing in this country, used to grow all the
promising early-blooming varieties out of
doors, and twelve or fourteen years ago
with better success than we have seen
elsewhere as farnorth as Boston. Under
date of November 4 he writes us: "I
have no early chrysanthemums which for
a succession "of years have served me well.
The most promising of the recent addi-
tions is M. Gustave Grimswald, but I
can not preserve the newer kinds in open
culture for more than a couple of years."

fl DOZEN GOOD C«RySflNTflEMUMS.

[see page 73.]

I have taken a dozen of the finest flow-
ers, one of a kind, that are in bloom here
and had them photographed lor Garden-
ing. Everyone of them is of exquisite
form and beauty, and all are good vari-
eties for general cultivation for any pur-
pose; indeed although they are of recent
introduction they all aie'improvements
in their class.

1. Mrs Charles Lanier.— A large,
fine, globular, slightly incurved flower of

72

GARDENING.

Nov. IS,

rich shining yellowcolor. It has a strong
stem and fine foliage.

2. Mrs. E. A. Wolcott.— A beautiful
incurved, ball shaj ed, light pink flower.
The habit is dwarf and robust and the
foliage is vigorous and healthy.

3. Mrs. G. M. Pullman.— A Japanese,
reflexed large bloom of fine build with
long, drooping, broad petalsof an intense
golden yellow color.

4. Golden Gate.— Of the regular Jap-
anese type, and it is a strong grower arid
has fine foliage. It has magnificent flow-
ers of a rich bronzy yellow color.

5. Pitcher & Manda.— This is a
unique flower; the inner part is canary
yellow, and the other margin a broad
belt of pearly white

6. Mrs. John H. Starin —This is one
of the finest of all pure white chrysanthe-
mums. The blossoms are large, of fine
build, and the petals of good substance.
The plant is of fine habit and the stems
are stiff" and erect 'and covered with fine
foliage.

7. Mrs. Hamilton McK. Twombly.—
A perfectlydoubleflowerof large size with
beautifully incurved broad, substantial
petals, of a white color delicately shaded
with pink. For general purposes it is a
fine variety.

8. Mrs. Archibald Rogers.— A large
substantial flower, deep rose inside and
silvery pink on the outside. It is a strong
healthy plant with stiff" erect stems and
vigorous fohage, but somewhat late in
blooming.

9. Thomas Emerson.— This is a dwarf
sturdy variety with stiff" stems; the flow-
ers are large, the center petals incurved,
the outer ones refle.xed, and the color is
Indian red slightly shaded with orange
red. It is a fine addition to the dark col-
ored sorts.

10. Mrs. George West.— A large,
bold, long lasting flower of fine form!
with broad substantial incurved petals of
a rich rose and pink color. It isof strong,
dwarf habit.

11. Miss Georgienne Bramhall — .\
finely shaped, incurved, large flower with
broad, neatly arranged petals; the color
is bright lemon yellow. The plant is of
fine habit and a free bloomer.

12. Mrs. James B. Crane.— The flow-
ers are large and of fine form with broad
incurved petals of clear rose pink color.
It is of good habit and strong consti-
tution. F, L. Atkins.

New Jersey.

Orchids.

ORCHIDS IN NOVEMBER.

Cattleya lahiata will soon be out of
bloom and if the space is wanted forother
flowering plants, it can be placed in any
out of the way place where a temperature
of 50° at night and 55° to 58° by day can
be had. It must get very little"water at
r ot. If kept in a high temperature where
C. Triath-c. etc. arc being forced bv moist-
ure and heat into flower there" will be
danger of lahiata making a too earlv
start to grow. I should not fear keeping
this gorgeous species in a temperature of
45° at night, 50° to 58° bvdav, provided
it were not subjected to sudd"en fluctua-
tions of temperature as is sometimes the
case with houses that come under the
head ot "cool house."

Cattleya Trianas willnowre(|uireatten-
tion by keeping up plentv of atmospheric
moisture, but water vcrvsparinglv in the
pot especially if any sphagnum is'used in
the potting material. About G0° at night

and 65° to 70° by day will be right for itj
giving only a very light shading on the
roof. Arrange the plants so that thev
can receive all the light available and no"t
much water on the foliage except on verj-
fine days and then early in the moming.
C. Mossiaa will require looking over to
remove all the decayed matter in the pot-
ting material; also look well to the drain-
age and wash off all signs of insect pest. I
find that tobacco stems on the pipes are
a great preventive of insect pests, even
orchid scale. Replace them with f"resh
stems every three or four weeks, if this
plan is well k pt up there will be need of
very Uttle sponging and brushing for
scales.

It is now time to select out from vour
stock of Dendrobium iiobile and D. Ward-
ianum such plants as are ripe and ready
for rest for which purpose place them ink
house at from 40° to 50°, giving verv Ht-
tle water and that only on very fine days.
After a few weeks rest they will show
signs of buds pushing from the nodes of
the stalk and when they have fairlj' broken
through the skin the plant may be placed
in heat and in from thirtv to forty days
will show a lovely blaze o"f flower.

Cypripedium insigne and Ccelogyne
cristata will now enjoy all the light you
can give them and they too will sffon
return a blaze of bloom for kind treat-
ment. Laelias that are wanted for bloom
at the holidays will now require a nice
warm atmosphere with plenty of moist-
ure in the air and to be exposed to suffi-
cient light. Remove them to cool and dry
quarters when they get well out in bloom.
Odontoglossums that have their growth
well advanced will enjoy a careful and
weak watering of sheep and cow manure
about once a week till the bulb is well
finished; I find it helps to bring a strong
flower spike and good qualitv of flowers.
Utica, N. Y. vVm. Mathews.

Aquatics.

DENDROBIUM FHfllflENOFSIS SCflROE-
DtRlflNlM.
. This poor iiiisL-raljlc luuking orchid with
a name long enough to suit it to the
world's end, made its appearance in this
country about two years ago, and has
proven to be one of the surprises of this
age of floriculture. When we open an im-
ported case of it, the plants look dead,
and if received in the fall this opinion
holds good for six months. But when
warm summer weather comes, and the
plants are placed in genial buovant heat
with plenty of moisture, in fact a good
drenching twice a day, the progress they
will make in two or three months is sim-
ply marvellous, and the number of flow, r
spikes they will send out from both the
old and new growths, show this variety
to be in one of the most floriferous of
orchids. Because of this recuperative
nature our boys call it the "resurrection
orchid." Its flowers are lovely and rival
in beauty even those of the genus Pha-
Ixnopsis and range in color from delicate
pink and white to strong crimson and
shades of red; small plants not infre-
quently carry from thirtv to fifty blos-
soms.

For this lovely orchid I should recom-
mend cool dry treatment in such a man-
ner as to preserve the roots in sound con-
dition during winter, sav 50° to 55° by
day or night, and keep up sufficient
atmospheric moisture to keep the plants
plump. In the way of orchids I look upon
this dendrobium as the grandest importa-
tion for many years. And let us hope
that it is not one of those kinds of Den-
drobium that dwindle away after a year
or two's artificial forcing.

Utica, X. Y. Wm. Mathews.

KEEPING fl BIG FROG OVER WINTER.

A Penns3'lvania subscriber asks "How
can I keep a big frog overwinter? This is no
ordinary frog of which we have an abund-
ance, but a huge fellow given to my wife
by a friend who got it from Michigan.
He now makes his house in one of my out-
door lily ponds, and we are anxious to
have him next year. I am not afraid of a
little trouble. If you tell me to bringhim
into the greenhouse, don't omit to say
what to feed him on "

We submitted the above to our veteran
friend Mr. William Saunders of the U. S,
Department of Agriculture, Washington,
who kindly replies as follows:

"The best thing to do with the frog is
to let him alone in his pond. He will look
after himself Frogs hibernate in winter
and do not partake of much food during
that time. "To trv to nurse him in agreen-
house would probably kill him outright.
Toads can be kept in a greenhouse all the
vear round, but frogs are different, they
like mud for winter quarters."

GREEN SCUM ON fl FOND.
M. N., Chippewa Falls, Wisconsin,
writes: ^'I have made a lily pond and
stocked it with native white pond lilies
and also Zanzibar lilies which grow and
bloom finely, but a green algae grows so
rapidly and in such quantities as to make
the pond very unsightly, the soil is com-
posed of black soil from the fields and
rotten barnyard manure, a mixture of cow
and horse manure. Is there any remedy?
The pond has been in use two summers."

The only way to get rid of the green
alga: in ponds is to skim it out with a
scoop made for the purpose. Take a light
shallow box of convenient size, tack on
coarse wire nettingin placeof the bottom,
remove one end and with this it is not a
difficult matter to clean out a small pond
and if it is done several times early in
the season it will not usually grow
enough to be unsightly later on after the
foliage of the lilies cover the surface. The
common garden toad breeds in shallow
water and its tadpoles feed on the green
scum that forms on the surface earlv in
the season and which is the first stage of
the alg£e and it is a good plan to collect
as many of the toads as possible and put
them near the pond. They breed in
countless thousands in mv ponds and
usually eat up the algae as fast as it
grows. The common water snail also
feeds on it and should be encouraged to
breed in the water as much as possible.
The algiE is always worse in newly made
ponds, and does not usually grow enough
in old ponds to become unsightly.

Dwight, Mass. L. W. Go'odell.

Greenhouse and Window.

T«E GREENHOUSE.

Chrysanthemums are now in theirglory,
but before the month is out they will be
nearly over. What shall we fill up then
with? Carnations, callas, geraniums,
bouvardias, heliotrope, cyclamen, prim-
roses, begonias, main- bulbs, and so on.
With most of these' it is a case of more
room needed.

.\t this season of the year much arti-
ficial heat in a greenhouse is prejudicial

iS94-

GARDENING.

73

A DOZEN GOOD CHRYSANTHEMUMS

to the plants. Except in the case of hot-
house foliage plants, ferns, palms and the
like very little shading is necessary on the
glass, and when it comes to carnations,
bouvardias, marguerites, cyclamen and
primroses, no shading at all is required
providingthe houseis a cooland airyone.

Try to change the air in the greenhouse
every day. If the weather is fine and mild
ventilate freely; if bright but frosty ven-
tilate in the forenoon, a little at a time,
and shut up earlv. In ventilating never
open the sashi-s wide at once, but do so
gradually, an inch or so at first, then a
little wider once or twice at intervals as
the warmth and sunshine increase; and
shut the ventilators in the same way, be-
ginning quite early in the afternoon.

Plants recently brought in from out-
side are apt to drop a good many of their
older leaves, see that these are picked and
removed; if they fall upon other leaves
they are sure to spot or rot them.

While all fast growing plants as eallas
and cinerarias need lots of water, those
that we are sirapK' keeping alive over
winter as geraniums, fuchsias and cacti
should be watered sparingly. While it is
well to keep up a moist atmosphere in
hothouses, in cool houses and where car-
nations, chrysanthemums, daisies and
other plants are in bloom don't spill any
water about the floors or plants that
3-ou can avoid, asdamp is so troublesome
at this time of the vear.

AN OBSTINATE CACTUS.

1 liavc ahvays wondered why so much
has l)een written about the treatment of

cacti while resting, and so little about
what to do withthem whiIegrowing;but
now I have discovered the reason. It is
because they never do anything else but
rest. I have had one for seven years that
hasn't done a blessed thing but just sit
still and take up shelf room. It won't
grow, and it is too lazy even to die. It
has had lots of good Lake Superior watei
is summer, and has been kept moderately
dry during winter but all to no purpose.
Eight ytars ago it was covered with
beautiful scarlet bell shaped blossoms,
but it retired from business immediately
after, evidently so satisfied with its per-
formance that it didn't consider it neces-
sary to repeat it. It can'tbe given away
because it is sort of an heirloom. Besides
nobody wants it. It is not only a thorn
in the flesh, it is a whole cactus plant full
of thorns. Carroll W. Rankl\.

Michigan.

Don't blame the poor cactus, it isn't its
fault. If it isn't too enervated already
give it another chance. Let it rest the
coming winter. Keep it in a moderately
cool room, rather dry (but not dust dry)
at the root, and perfectly dry overhead,
it doesn't reed sunshine but don't
smother it under other plants. When
spring comes don't try to make it .grow,
just let it alone, but give it a little more
sunshine and a little more water; jjutting
it to the front in an east or south-facing
window will answer. In May stand it
out on the piazza or elsewhere with your
other plants to inure it to outside airand
sunshine and keep it drv overhead. About
the end of .Mav when it is tlioroughlv

"hardened off," turn it out of its pot
shake all the old dirt awayirom its roots
and plant it oiit in the garden in an open
but sheltered spot, and where water in
the event of storms or thunder showers
cannot lie in a puddle about it, not even
for a few minutes, and never let another
plant encroach upon it or shade it. Then
let it alone till August, when if it still
lives, it should be lifted and potted, and
kept slightly moist at the root but rigidly
dry overhead. In summer give all the
Lake Superior water you want to your
sweet peas and cannas, but not a drop to
the cactus, the rain from heaven is all the
moisture it wants or should get.

CANNAS BY TflE WATER'S EDGE, AND IN
THE HOUSE.
My cousin has a water lily pond on the
edge" of which her cannas grow beauti-
fullj'. I have a fish pond that proved a
failure for fish on account of muskrats. I
want to make it a lily pond in the spring.
The ground around it is very rich and
cannas will grow there grandly. I got
eleven of the leading varieties of cannas
from Mr. Saul last spring and they are
now (October 15) blooming nicely in-
doors. I put the roots into small boxes
with as little earth as possible and
brought them inside, where the5' are now
covered with bloom; indeed, they seem to
fancy the move. When it gets too cold
to keep them without stove heat I intend
to cut down the tops and put the roots
into warmer quarters. L. G. C.

Rockingham Co., Va.

74

GARDENING.

Nov. 15.

William Falconer, Editor.

PtTBLISHED THE 1ST A>

THE GARDENING COMPANY,

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t Gardening, Glen Cove. N. V.

Interesting. If It does not exactly

you please

plants.

ASK ANY QUESTIO . .

flowers, fruits, vegetables or other practical gardening
matters. We wUf take pleasure In answering them .

Send ns notes of your experience In gardening In
any line; tell us of your successes that others may be
enlightened and encouraged, and of your failures,
perhaps we can help you.

Send ns Photographs or Sketches of your
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graved for Gardening.

CONTENTS.

A glimpse of the ocean (illus.) 65

the flower garden.

The flower garden 66

Crinum Kirkii . 67

Evergreen hardy plants for graves . 67

The Japanese variegated <
Planting a bare hill top . ,

Trees and shrubs

Magnolias, yellow wood, €
Shrubs lor name

chrysanthemums.
Some of the newer chrysanthemums (illus.)

Wintering chrysanthemums

Fine flowers at Chicago

Amateurs and their chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums in the Brooklyn parks . . .
A dozen fine chrysanthemums . . .

Early blooming chrysanthemums

A dozen good chrysanthemums (»Ilus.) . . . .

Keeping a big frog ov

CNHOUSE and 1

Can

73

THE FRUIT GARDEN.

Hardy and greenhouse grapes 75

Pruning grape vines 75